Northern Dalmatia, Kvarner and Istria
Otok Pašman
Uvala Triluke 4.1NM, 1hr
Thursday August 3
It seems Biograd (and the rest of Europe) is experiencing a heat wave, their third this season which is very unusual. We were up early (for us anyway) to get the market shopping done, and after defrosting the freezer, washing the dishes, and having coffee with Linda we were ready to go.
Refuelling was somewhat of a challenge as we left Biograd, with choppy seas and the wind blowing us onto the jetty. We came out unscathed but also without the port stern rope which got wedged in the jetty fenders. Some young men in a small runabout threw it onto their boat while they refuelled then brought it to us as we hovered just off the jetty. They saved me from having to swim over for it. Very kind of them.
Once again we didn’t venture too far, just over to the south end of Pašman. With the temperature in the 40s the first mission was to swim, second was to nap. We’re lucky to be able to cool down so easily.
Linda said despite telling people who charter their boats that they can’t get under the Pašman bridge, AND placing a whopping great sticker in an obvious place in the cockpit, some still try. We saw evidence of this as a boat limped past us dragging its mast out to the side. It would be interesting to see how they get THAT back into the marina and moor up.
Click images to enlarge
Thursday August 3
It seems Biograd (and the rest of Europe) is experiencing a heat wave, their third this season which is very unusual. We were up early (for us anyway) to get the market shopping done, and after defrosting the freezer, washing the dishes, and having coffee with Linda we were ready to go.
Refuelling was somewhat of a challenge as we left Biograd, with choppy seas and the wind blowing us onto the jetty. We came out unscathed but also without the port stern rope which got wedged in the jetty fenders. Some young men in a small runabout threw it onto their boat while they refuelled then brought it to us as we hovered just off the jetty. They saved me from having to swim over for it. Very kind of them.
Once again we didn’t venture too far, just over to the south end of Pašman. With the temperature in the 40s the first mission was to swim, second was to nap. We’re lucky to be able to cool down so easily.
Linda said despite telling people who charter their boats that they can’t get under the Pašman bridge, AND placing a whopping great sticker in an obvious place in the cockpit, some still try. We saw evidence of this as a boat limped past us dragging its mast out to the side. It would be interesting to see how they get THAT back into the marina and moor up.
Click images to enlarge
Otok Ugljan
Uvala Lamjana Mala 19NM, 4.5hrs
Friday August 4
We planned on spending the night on the island of Iž and pulled into Uvala Vodenjak. Is was busy and very rocky, and after dropping the anchor we spent half an hour duck diving to move the chain onto a sandy patch. We thought it would be a restless night though, with the chain dragging across rocks every time the wind changed direction. I hate that scraping sound, and we'd seen in Žutska Aba how tangled a chain can get as our neighbours struggled to free theirs all afternoon. As we had no desire for that happen to us we ate lunch and left.
Rather than check other places further up the coast we ducked across to Ugljan and returned to a cove we know has easy anchoring.
Click images to enlarge
Friday August 4
We planned on spending the night on the island of Iž and pulled into Uvala Vodenjak. Is was busy and very rocky, and after dropping the anchor we spent half an hour duck diving to move the chain onto a sandy patch. We thought it would be a restless night though, with the chain dragging across rocks every time the wind changed direction. I hate that scraping sound, and we'd seen in Žutska Aba how tangled a chain can get as our neighbours struggled to free theirs all afternoon. As we had no desire for that happen to us we ate lunch and left.
Rather than check other places further up the coast we ducked across to Ugljan and returned to a cove we know has easy anchoring.
Click images to enlarge
Uvala Prtljug 7.4NM, 1.5hrs
Saturday August 5 - Monday August 7
Again we didn't venture far, just up the coast a few miles to a very pretty cove with clear water and a small cluster of holiday cottages. We passed a number of fish farms on the way and scared up a few seagulls en route. The rock formations and scrub colours along the way were most impressive, and of course no hillside is complete without, you guessed it, stone walls.
After anchoring Colin and I settled in to watch a game of Aussie rules football, swimming to cool off after each quarter. It was too hot to do much else, and we were rewarded by a good game and a win from our team. 'Bout time Freo!
Sunday night forecast a Bora (strong northerly wind) in the wee hours. We felt secure on anchor with a sandy bottom, but all other boats bar three left the bay. We let out an extra 10m of chain and sure enough the wind whipped up around 0100hrs, with lightening! Colin stayed up to keep an eye on things but we were fine. I’m in good hands with such a safe and competent captain.
Some places have a lot of yellow insects that hang around in the morning and evening, like a cross between a bee and a wasp. They don't bite and don't seem to land on anything edible, but when you open a beer or wine they're all over it! Perhaps they're barflies. We found some that had spent the night in a wine bottle and looked a little worse for wear. Little lushes!
Tuesday morning I took photos of fish traps we'd seen whilst SUPping. Such interesting constructions, and the same type of traps that have been used for eons. We've often seen them adorning konoba walls.
Click images to enlarge
Saturday August 5 - Monday August 7
Again we didn't venture far, just up the coast a few miles to a very pretty cove with clear water and a small cluster of holiday cottages. We passed a number of fish farms on the way and scared up a few seagulls en route. The rock formations and scrub colours along the way were most impressive, and of course no hillside is complete without, you guessed it, stone walls.
After anchoring Colin and I settled in to watch a game of Aussie rules football, swimming to cool off after each quarter. It was too hot to do much else, and we were rewarded by a good game and a win from our team. 'Bout time Freo!
Sunday night forecast a Bora (strong northerly wind) in the wee hours. We felt secure on anchor with a sandy bottom, but all other boats bar three left the bay. We let out an extra 10m of chain and sure enough the wind whipped up around 0100hrs, with lightening! Colin stayed up to keep an eye on things but we were fine. I’m in good hands with such a safe and competent captain.
Some places have a lot of yellow insects that hang around in the morning and evening, like a cross between a bee and a wasp. They don't bite and don't seem to land on anything edible, but when you open a beer or wine they're all over it! Perhaps they're barflies. We found some that had spent the night in a wine bottle and looked a little worse for wear. Little lushes!
Tuesday morning I took photos of fish traps we'd seen whilst SUPping. Such interesting constructions, and the same type of traps that have been used for eons. We've often seen them adorning konoba walls.
Click images to enlarge
Otok Molat
Luka Jazi 14.4NM, 2.5hrs
Tuesday August 8 - Wednesday August 9
A southerly breeze was predicted for the next couple of days so we made our way to the north side of Molat, having previously only stayed on the south side. Last time we were here there was a bitterly cold northerly blowing and we were in our wet weather gear taking photos of the surf crashing in this bay, safely moored on the other side of the island.
Our grapes were starting to ferment and I discovered that if there is no alcohol around those bugs, which I now know as Vespula vulgaris or common wasp, will happily go straight to the source. It started out with one or two but word soon got out and by evening we had a bowl full of wasps having a grand old time in the grape bowl. Not wanting to deprive them I took the grapes to shore before we left, but most of the wasps stayed on the boat and hovered around where the bowl had been. Well, I tried.
Click images to enlarge
Tuesday August 8 - Wednesday August 9
A southerly breeze was predicted for the next couple of days so we made our way to the north side of Molat, having previously only stayed on the south side. Last time we were here there was a bitterly cold northerly blowing and we were in our wet weather gear taking photos of the surf crashing in this bay, safely moored on the other side of the island.
Our grapes were starting to ferment and I discovered that if there is no alcohol around those bugs, which I now know as Vespula vulgaris or common wasp, will happily go straight to the source. It started out with one or two but word soon got out and by evening we had a bowl full of wasps having a grand old time in the grape bowl. Not wanting to deprive them I took the grapes to shore before we left, but most of the wasps stayed on the boat and hovered around where the bowl had been. Well, I tried.
Click images to enlarge
Otok Silba
Luka Silba 10.9NM, 2hrs 45min
Thursday August 10 - Friday August 11
Silba was suggested to us by Dennis, one of the staff at Burin Yacht Charters, who is from there. We planned on going in for dinner but had only been moored a few hours when an unexpected northerly front came through. We knew there might be thunderstorms but not winds from the north and we were totally exposed. We closed the hatches and waited it out, watching boats arrive and try to tie up to mooring balls in strong wind and waves. A good samaritan from another boat went out in his dinghy to help others coming in, putting himself at considerable risk, but one boat only got a stern rope on and we watched as the waves crashed in and out of their cockpit. It took them at least an hour to get a line to the bow and turn the boat around. Not an especially easy task given the conditions.
A boat towing their dinghy flipped it whilst trying to moor up, then a short time later we saw a pair of oars floating towards us. I suggested to Colin we retrieve them, and with much insistence he agreed, then chivalrously went in for them himself. I offered but I guess he thought he was a less delicate petal. Once things settled he rowed over and returned them to the crew, receiving a tin of sardines for his troubles. I'm not even sure they knew they'd lost them!The storm blew through in a couple of hours and the wind shifted to the southeast, but with the waves still rolling in from the north the boat was lurching from side to side and stuff was falling all over the place downstairs. "Your turn to cook, Colin" I said. Luckily we were just heating up left overs, and I'd had my turn the previous night.
The "mooring guy" came out to the boats to collect fees as soon as it was calm enough, never missing a chance to collect! We had already paid earlier in the day and he had, in a 'round about way, indicated that something like this might happen, saying it was a strong mooring but not giving any guarantees it would stay put in adverse winds. Still, we had faith in the huge concrete block and it was justified.
The wind completely died during the night (unfortunately allowing me to hear doof doof music from shore at 0200hrs) but picked up again by morning. It was comfortable enough for us to get to shore though, and Silba was a delight. It reminded us very much of our beloved Rottnest Island off the coast of Fremantle. It even had similar smells, like the pine trees and native figs. I looked for quokkas but couldn't see any, but we did see sheep from the boat. The island is only 15km sq. (smaller than Rottnest at 19km sq.) and we walked from one side to the other in less than 10 minutes. Like Rottnest there were no cars, and the only 'transport' seemed to be tractors with trailers. People used trolleys to cart gear around, heavy bags of charcoal, the family's beach stuff, the weekly grocery shopping.
In the evening we dined at Konoba Mul, recommended by Dennis. Our waiter, Toni, had worked with Dennis at the restaurant for 5 years. He was very friendly, and kindly helped me with my Croatian. I love that the waitstaff don't seem to mind that. In fact some, like Toni, seem to take it upon themselves to help with my education and correct my grammar, which is a devil to learn anyone will tell you. Toni very patiently talked to me in Hrvatskom and improved my learning.
Click images to enlarge
Thursday August 10 - Friday August 11
Silba was suggested to us by Dennis, one of the staff at Burin Yacht Charters, who is from there. We planned on going in for dinner but had only been moored a few hours when an unexpected northerly front came through. We knew there might be thunderstorms but not winds from the north and we were totally exposed. We closed the hatches and waited it out, watching boats arrive and try to tie up to mooring balls in strong wind and waves. A good samaritan from another boat went out in his dinghy to help others coming in, putting himself at considerable risk, but one boat only got a stern rope on and we watched as the waves crashed in and out of their cockpit. It took them at least an hour to get a line to the bow and turn the boat around. Not an especially easy task given the conditions.
A boat towing their dinghy flipped it whilst trying to moor up, then a short time later we saw a pair of oars floating towards us. I suggested to Colin we retrieve them, and with much insistence he agreed, then chivalrously went in for them himself. I offered but I guess he thought he was a less delicate petal. Once things settled he rowed over and returned them to the crew, receiving a tin of sardines for his troubles. I'm not even sure they knew they'd lost them!The storm blew through in a couple of hours and the wind shifted to the southeast, but with the waves still rolling in from the north the boat was lurching from side to side and stuff was falling all over the place downstairs. "Your turn to cook, Colin" I said. Luckily we were just heating up left overs, and I'd had my turn the previous night.
The "mooring guy" came out to the boats to collect fees as soon as it was calm enough, never missing a chance to collect! We had already paid earlier in the day and he had, in a 'round about way, indicated that something like this might happen, saying it was a strong mooring but not giving any guarantees it would stay put in adverse winds. Still, we had faith in the huge concrete block and it was justified.
The wind completely died during the night (unfortunately allowing me to hear doof doof music from shore at 0200hrs) but picked up again by morning. It was comfortable enough for us to get to shore though, and Silba was a delight. It reminded us very much of our beloved Rottnest Island off the coast of Fremantle. It even had similar smells, like the pine trees and native figs. I looked for quokkas but couldn't see any, but we did see sheep from the boat. The island is only 15km sq. (smaller than Rottnest at 19km sq.) and we walked from one side to the other in less than 10 minutes. Like Rottnest there were no cars, and the only 'transport' seemed to be tractors with trailers. People used trolleys to cart gear around, heavy bags of charcoal, the family's beach stuff, the weekly grocery shopping.
In the evening we dined at Konoba Mul, recommended by Dennis. Our waiter, Toni, had worked with Dennis at the restaurant for 5 years. He was very friendly, and kindly helped me with my Croatian. I love that the waitstaff don't seem to mind that. In fact some, like Toni, seem to take it upon themselves to help with my education and correct my grammar, which is a devil to learn anyone will tell you. Toni very patiently talked to me in Hrvatskom and improved my learning.
Click images to enlarge
Otok Olib
Uvala Sveti Nikola 2.7NM, 1hr
Saturday August 12 - Sunday August 13
The northerly wasn't supposed to blow up 'til around midday, but it was in around 0230hrs and we'd been tossed around since then. Though we'd planned to go to shore for supplies the captain reviewed the weather and we beat it out of there around 0700hrs before it got any worse. Good decision! We made it to the shelter of Sveti Nikola just before all hell broke loose, and sat safely on a mooring ball while the wind blew up and thick bolts of lightening struck all around, accompanied by booming thunder and rain. The only thing more catastrophic was the Fremantle Football Club's performance against the Sydney Swans. At least mother nature didn't embarrass herself. Colin watched 'til half time while I watched the storm. MUCH more interesting.
Saturday lightened up once the storm blew through, and Sunday morning was positively gorgeous. The forecast was for intermittent strong northerly winds so we decided to stay another night, and got out on the SUPs early while it was calm. On shore stood the church of Sveti Nikola (Saint Nicholas) with a path leading inland. It was an interesting trail of gravel and rocks, lined most of the time by stone walls, occasionally with steps built into the wall with wider stones. We walked without knowing where to, and were joined by a kitten who appeared out of nowhere, bounding straight up to Colin and rubbing against his ankles. He padded along beside us and was probably as surprised as us to see a vehicle approaching - a bit like a quad bike with a tray on the back. The road was so narrow we had to climb onto rocks to get out of the way! The kitten leapt onto the opposite wall while it passed, then stayed with us 'til we reached the junction of roads going to Banjve Cove and the Olib township. There we turned back and were passed by a local bearing empty gallon water containers. He stopped to pat the kitten and asked if it was ours. When we replied in the negative he figured it must be lost as there was no-one living between there and Sv. Nikola. We hoped it would follow him to town.
Monday morning we wore proper shoes (yesterday having SUPped in taking only thongs) and walked all the way to Olib. We enjoyed exploring the small town and having coffee on the waterfront. We saw only one car on the island, the other modes of transport being mostly quad bikes or golf carts. The older men gathered to chat or play bocce, which we have seen in many towns.
We were back at the boat by lunchtime and off to our next destination shortly after.
Click images to enlarge
Saturday August 12 - Sunday August 13
The northerly wasn't supposed to blow up 'til around midday, but it was in around 0230hrs and we'd been tossed around since then. Though we'd planned to go to shore for supplies the captain reviewed the weather and we beat it out of there around 0700hrs before it got any worse. Good decision! We made it to the shelter of Sveti Nikola just before all hell broke loose, and sat safely on a mooring ball while the wind blew up and thick bolts of lightening struck all around, accompanied by booming thunder and rain. The only thing more catastrophic was the Fremantle Football Club's performance against the Sydney Swans. At least mother nature didn't embarrass herself. Colin watched 'til half time while I watched the storm. MUCH more interesting.
Saturday lightened up once the storm blew through, and Sunday morning was positively gorgeous. The forecast was for intermittent strong northerly winds so we decided to stay another night, and got out on the SUPs early while it was calm. On shore stood the church of Sveti Nikola (Saint Nicholas) with a path leading inland. It was an interesting trail of gravel and rocks, lined most of the time by stone walls, occasionally with steps built into the wall with wider stones. We walked without knowing where to, and were joined by a kitten who appeared out of nowhere, bounding straight up to Colin and rubbing against his ankles. He padded along beside us and was probably as surprised as us to see a vehicle approaching - a bit like a quad bike with a tray on the back. The road was so narrow we had to climb onto rocks to get out of the way! The kitten leapt onto the opposite wall while it passed, then stayed with us 'til we reached the junction of roads going to Banjve Cove and the Olib township. There we turned back and were passed by a local bearing empty gallon water containers. He stopped to pat the kitten and asked if it was ours. When we replied in the negative he figured it must be lost as there was no-one living between there and Sv. Nikola. We hoped it would follow him to town.
Monday morning we wore proper shoes (yesterday having SUPped in taking only thongs) and walked all the way to Olib. We enjoyed exploring the small town and having coffee on the waterfront. We saw only one car on the island, the other modes of transport being mostly quad bikes or golf carts. The older men gathered to chat or play bocce, which we have seen in many towns.
We were back at the boat by lunchtime and off to our next destination shortly after.
Click images to enlarge
Kvarner
Otok Ilovik
Uvala Paržine 15.7NM, 3hrs 45min
Monday August 14
This quiet bay apparently has a nice path that leads to the village, but we anchored in rocky ground and whilst Colin was happy to stay overnight he was reluctant to leave the boat to walk into town. We decided to get there by boat tomorrow instead, and knuckled down to the task of swimming and relaxing.
In the afternoon we saw a boat arrive with two beach mats flying from the mast attached to a halyard. Some poor chap got hoisted up to bring them down, though it would probably have been more sensible to wait for the wind to drop in the evening, as it invariably does.
Click images to enlarge
Monday August 14
This quiet bay apparently has a nice path that leads to the village, but we anchored in rocky ground and whilst Colin was happy to stay overnight he was reluctant to leave the boat to walk into town. We decided to get there by boat tomorrow instead, and knuckled down to the task of swimming and relaxing.
In the afternoon we saw a boat arrive with two beach mats flying from the mast attached to a halyard. Some poor chap got hoisted up to bring them down, though it would probably have been more sensible to wait for the wind to drop in the evening, as it invariably does.
Click images to enlarge
Otok Lošinj
Uvala Sunfarni via Ilovik Harbour 6.7NM, 2hrs
Tuesday August 15
Departing at 0930hrs we motored the 2.3NM to Otok Sveti Petar, pulled up on a mooring ball, launched the dinghy and motored across the channel to the small town of Ilovik. It was a charming place, again reminiscent of some of the more remote towns in Western Australia. I think it's the red dirt and the smells. We walked to the inland edge of town where paths led to the other bays on the island, and on returning heard a bell ringing in an unusually rhythmic way. We walked towards the sound and found it at the church where a man was literally hammering out a tune on the outside of the bell. A nice lady, who spotted us as tourists, told us it was a holiday for the Feast of the Madonna and that the bells would be played this way then rung the traditional way. She was local to Ilovik but living in the USA, New York judging by her accent.
We followed signs to a pekara in search of fresh bread and found a restaurant that seemed to double as a bakery. We had to wait a few minutes for the bread to come out of the oven. It doesn't get much fresher than that! The tiny shop passing for a market had very little of what we needed so we got a couple of things and headed back to the boat.
You really get to know each other when you spend so long together in close confines. I had been inhaling the bread fumes since we bought it and contemplating having some, so when Colin offered me a slice and with all my willpower I declined he said "I thought you might want to poke it". He knows that I like to press my finger into it to at least feel the freshness, even if I can't eat it. I had to laugh that he knows me so well.
We arrived at the beautiful bay of Sunfarni after exploring three others on the way. It was easy to anchor away from other boats here, with plenty of room to swing. This became unimportant though as all other boats left before nightfall. We think the winds (causing waves) may have scared them off, but Colin knew the breeze would swing and we had a calm night with the place to ourselves.
Photos by Colin and Nic. Click images to enlarge
Tuesday August 15
Departing at 0930hrs we motored the 2.3NM to Otok Sveti Petar, pulled up on a mooring ball, launched the dinghy and motored across the channel to the small town of Ilovik. It was a charming place, again reminiscent of some of the more remote towns in Western Australia. I think it's the red dirt and the smells. We walked to the inland edge of town where paths led to the other bays on the island, and on returning heard a bell ringing in an unusually rhythmic way. We walked towards the sound and found it at the church where a man was literally hammering out a tune on the outside of the bell. A nice lady, who spotted us as tourists, told us it was a holiday for the Feast of the Madonna and that the bells would be played this way then rung the traditional way. She was local to Ilovik but living in the USA, New York judging by her accent.
We followed signs to a pekara in search of fresh bread and found a restaurant that seemed to double as a bakery. We had to wait a few minutes for the bread to come out of the oven. It doesn't get much fresher than that! The tiny shop passing for a market had very little of what we needed so we got a couple of things and headed back to the boat.
You really get to know each other when you spend so long together in close confines. I had been inhaling the bread fumes since we bought it and contemplating having some, so when Colin offered me a slice and with all my willpower I declined he said "I thought you might want to poke it". He knows that I like to press my finger into it to at least feel the freshness, even if I can't eat it. I had to laugh that he knows me so well.
We arrived at the beautiful bay of Sunfarni after exploring three others on the way. It was easy to anchor away from other boats here, with plenty of room to swing. This became unimportant though as all other boats left before nightfall. We think the winds (causing waves) may have scared them off, but Colin knew the breeze would swing and we had a calm night with the place to ourselves.
Photos by Colin and Nic. Click images to enlarge
Mali Lošinj 7.6NM, 1hr 45min
Thursday August 16
Having had little success re-provisioning on the small islands we made for a bigger town to get supplies. At 1400hrs on the dot there were 5 or 6 boats waiting to get into the marina at Mali Lošinj. It seems to be the magic hour people arrive and leave. We knew the arrival time was strict for returning charter boats but we didn't think it was for other boats coming in for the night. Anyway, we got onto the outermost jetty, operated by the Port Authority and reasonably priced. By the time night fell boats were jammed in like sardines along the jetties and pier, and we were 'parked in' by three huge charter vessels rafted up behind. Small boats along the pier were also locked in by larger ones as they overlapped bow to stern.
We did an afternoon tour of the town, walking up the main street and over the hill to Veli Lošinj, a quiet little bay on the other side of the island. There was a line at the shower building so we showered on the boat, then dined out at the most popular restaurant in town.
Though it was inexpensive it had to be the most uncomfortable night I've spent on a jetty. The waves, created both by boat traffic and wind, were coming straight in making it rock'n'rolly all night. We couldn't wait to get out there the next day. It was hot and humid so we did our provisioning early, cleaned the boat, did the dishes, and got outta there lickety split to seek calmer waters.
Photos by Colin and Nic. Click images to enlarge
Thursday August 16
Having had little success re-provisioning on the small islands we made for a bigger town to get supplies. At 1400hrs on the dot there were 5 or 6 boats waiting to get into the marina at Mali Lošinj. It seems to be the magic hour people arrive and leave. We knew the arrival time was strict for returning charter boats but we didn't think it was for other boats coming in for the night. Anyway, we got onto the outermost jetty, operated by the Port Authority and reasonably priced. By the time night fell boats were jammed in like sardines along the jetties and pier, and we were 'parked in' by three huge charter vessels rafted up behind. Small boats along the pier were also locked in by larger ones as they overlapped bow to stern.
We did an afternoon tour of the town, walking up the main street and over the hill to Veli Lošinj, a quiet little bay on the other side of the island. There was a line at the shower building so we showered on the boat, then dined out at the most popular restaurant in town.
Though it was inexpensive it had to be the most uncomfortable night I've spent on a jetty. The waves, created both by boat traffic and wind, were coming straight in making it rock'n'rolly all night. We couldn't wait to get out there the next day. It was hot and humid so we did our provisioning early, cleaned the boat, did the dishes, and got outta there lickety split to seek calmer waters.
Photos by Colin and Nic. Click images to enlarge
Otok Unije
Uvala Podkujni 11.4NM, 2.5hrs
Thursday August 17 - Friday August 18
Though there were a couple of bays close by we decided to go further afield hoping to find somewhere quieter than Lošinj. Unije delivered, and although there were quite a few boats in Uvala Podkujni we were able to anchor away from the mooring buoys and so had a peaceful night, drifting off to sleep with my favourite sound of sheep bleating in the distance.
The next morning most of the boats disappeared, being charter boat changeover day. We had visitors in a dinghy selling fresh produce and pastries so we bought apple strudels and home-made goat cheese. How could you not? To balance our indulgence we SUPped around the bay, enjoying riding the "water moguls" caused by the occasional passing boat. Later in the day we SUPped to shore and walked to the top of the hill, looking for sheep but only finding droppings. We did find a couple of goats on the shore line though, happily munching their way through all the island vegetation and being very cute about it.
Before bed we swam with the bioluminescence and then fell asleep with the sound of fish jumping. Before drifting off I got up to explore why there were so many fish jumping and found the water full of wriggling sea worms when I shone my torch in. It reminded me of diving during a coral spawn in Exmouth. Worms everywhere!
Click images to enlarge
Thursday August 17 - Friday August 18
Though there were a couple of bays close by we decided to go further afield hoping to find somewhere quieter than Lošinj. Unije delivered, and although there were quite a few boats in Uvala Podkujni we were able to anchor away from the mooring buoys and so had a peaceful night, drifting off to sleep with my favourite sound of sheep bleating in the distance.
The next morning most of the boats disappeared, being charter boat changeover day. We had visitors in a dinghy selling fresh produce and pastries so we bought apple strudels and home-made goat cheese. How could you not? To balance our indulgence we SUPped around the bay, enjoying riding the "water moguls" caused by the occasional passing boat. Later in the day we SUPped to shore and walked to the top of the hill, looking for sheep but only finding droppings. We did find a couple of goats on the shore line though, happily munching their way through all the island vegetation and being very cute about it.
Before bed we swam with the bioluminescence and then fell asleep with the sound of fish jumping. Before drifting off I got up to explore why there were so many fish jumping and found the water full of wriggling sea worms when I shone my torch in. It reminded me of diving during a coral spawn in Exmouth. Worms everywhere!
Click images to enlarge
Otok Cres
Cres 22.5NM, 5hrs
Saturday August 19 - Monday August 21
With a bora on its way we took shelter in the very lovely ACI marina. It was a short walk into town in the soft rain, enjoying the pretty surroundings in the calm before the storm. Sure enough, as predicted it blew up in the wee small hours and we were thankful to be in a marina.
Cres, pronounced 'Tsress', has been inhabited since the Palaeolithic time period and has been ruled by more countries than you can shake a stick at! Greece, the Roman Empire from the 1st century B.C., the Byzantine Empire after the fall of Rome, the Croats in the 7th century, the Venetians in the 10th and 11th centuries, the Croats again, the Hungarians, and for 400 years the Venetians. Austria after Napoleon's victory over the Venetians, the French Empire after Napoleon’s defeat of Austria, Austria again for 100 years after the fall of Napoleon. At the end of World War I Cres was once again handed over to Italy until 1947 when it was assigned to Yugoslavia. Sheesh! We were often spoken to by wait staff either in Italian or German, a fair guess in these parts with the close proximity of these countries and Cres having a strong Italian influence due to its years under Venetian rule. It was interesting to see that some menus in the town were printed in Italian, German and Croatian (in that order) with no English translation. We also experienced this in Lošinj. Unusual compared to everywhere else we've been.
Sunday and Monday blew fiercely and we hiked up to the campground 3km out of town to get a gas bottle filled, Sunday to drop off and Monday to pick up, getting to and from via the seaside promenade packed with holiday makers. We spent the rest of the time exploring the old town. We had our favourite bar we returned to daily for a beer and a glass of wine (traipsing around with that gas bottle was thirsty work after all) where the tables and chairs were made from old wine barrels and the t-shirts said "Save water, drink wine". Although we knew there were good restaurants in Cres we ate at the marina every night, finding something comforting about routine and predictability when most days are full of so many unknowns. Saturday night our waiter informed me there was no "Iced Lemon Cake" when I was perusing the dessert menu, then proceeded to tell me it was his favourite. I said he shouldn't have told me that. He laughed and promised if they had it tomorrow night it would be on the house! We didn't think we'd be there for dinner again, but we were and he was true to his word. It was worth coming back for!
My photo gallery has a couple of collections. One is of dogs. Dogs were everywhere. People go holidaying with their dogs on sailing boats, motor boats, by car and by camper, and those dogs go everywhere with their owners...the beach, the bar, the town, the restaurants, regardless of size or temperament. It's impressive! And no-one gets all huffy about dogs spreading germs in the restaurants, least of all the waiters who just bring a dish of water. Gives true meaning to the saying "Every man and his dog was there".
The other collection is of Colin with his "Trolley Dolly". I like to say I have my chickens and Colin has his trolley, and he took it to see all the beautiful sights in Cres town. Of course he only had the trolley because we were always either shopping or transporting the gas bottle, but why complicate the story?!
Click images to enlarge
Saturday August 19 - Monday August 21
With a bora on its way we took shelter in the very lovely ACI marina. It was a short walk into town in the soft rain, enjoying the pretty surroundings in the calm before the storm. Sure enough, as predicted it blew up in the wee small hours and we were thankful to be in a marina.
Cres, pronounced 'Tsress', has been inhabited since the Palaeolithic time period and has been ruled by more countries than you can shake a stick at! Greece, the Roman Empire from the 1st century B.C., the Byzantine Empire after the fall of Rome, the Croats in the 7th century, the Venetians in the 10th and 11th centuries, the Croats again, the Hungarians, and for 400 years the Venetians. Austria after Napoleon's victory over the Venetians, the French Empire after Napoleon’s defeat of Austria, Austria again for 100 years after the fall of Napoleon. At the end of World War I Cres was once again handed over to Italy until 1947 when it was assigned to Yugoslavia. Sheesh! We were often spoken to by wait staff either in Italian or German, a fair guess in these parts with the close proximity of these countries and Cres having a strong Italian influence due to its years under Venetian rule. It was interesting to see that some menus in the town were printed in Italian, German and Croatian (in that order) with no English translation. We also experienced this in Lošinj. Unusual compared to everywhere else we've been.
Sunday and Monday blew fiercely and we hiked up to the campground 3km out of town to get a gas bottle filled, Sunday to drop off and Monday to pick up, getting to and from via the seaside promenade packed with holiday makers. We spent the rest of the time exploring the old town. We had our favourite bar we returned to daily for a beer and a glass of wine (traipsing around with that gas bottle was thirsty work after all) where the tables and chairs were made from old wine barrels and the t-shirts said "Save water, drink wine". Although we knew there were good restaurants in Cres we ate at the marina every night, finding something comforting about routine and predictability when most days are full of so many unknowns. Saturday night our waiter informed me there was no "Iced Lemon Cake" when I was perusing the dessert menu, then proceeded to tell me it was his favourite. I said he shouldn't have told me that. He laughed and promised if they had it tomorrow night it would be on the house! We didn't think we'd be there for dinner again, but we were and he was true to his word. It was worth coming back for!
My photo gallery has a couple of collections. One is of dogs. Dogs were everywhere. People go holidaying with their dogs on sailing boats, motor boats, by car and by camper, and those dogs go everywhere with their owners...the beach, the bar, the town, the restaurants, regardless of size or temperament. It's impressive! And no-one gets all huffy about dogs spreading germs in the restaurants, least of all the waiters who just bring a dish of water. Gives true meaning to the saying "Every man and his dog was there".
The other collection is of Colin with his "Trolley Dolly". I like to say I have my chickens and Colin has his trolley, and he took it to see all the beautiful sights in Cres town. Of course he only had the trolley because we were always either shopping or transporting the gas bottle, but why complicate the story?!
Click images to enlarge
Istria
Uvala Sebenišca 17.5NM, 4hrs
Tuesday August 22 - Wednesday August 23
After a quick trip into Cres to get some last minute supplies at the fresh market we headed to the Istrian coast. There we made our way into the Zaljev Raša bay, a long, narrow, deep inlet between high hills, very much like a fiord. Sure, the view of the quarry wasn't ideal, but the rest was very scenic and we had this small bay to ourselves once the few day visitors departed. Surrounded by green hills the landscape was certainly different from what we'd experienced so far.
Some of Colin's friends and relatives have a thing about needing a 'mount' in the galley for the paper towel roll. Colin had this to say in response to a photo sent by Geoff of an improvised mount on another boat...
"For sure, Cat1 SMATSS (Serious Man against the sea stuff) Ocean Sailing Safety Regs dictate that EDR (Elephant Dunny Roll) needs to be within reach of every crew member at all times during a voyage! If not mounted prominently in the saloon, then crew should be supplied with personal mounted supply. (See photo below)". Fair comment.
Click images to enlarge
Tuesday August 22 - Wednesday August 23
After a quick trip into Cres to get some last minute supplies at the fresh market we headed to the Istrian coast. There we made our way into the Zaljev Raša bay, a long, narrow, deep inlet between high hills, very much like a fiord. Sure, the view of the quarry wasn't ideal, but the rest was very scenic and we had this small bay to ourselves once the few day visitors departed. Surrounded by green hills the landscape was certainly different from what we'd experienced so far.
Some of Colin's friends and relatives have a thing about needing a 'mount' in the galley for the paper towel roll. Colin had this to say in response to a photo sent by Geoff of an improvised mount on another boat...
"For sure, Cat1 SMATSS (Serious Man against the sea stuff) Ocean Sailing Safety Regs dictate that EDR (Elephant Dunny Roll) needs to be within reach of every crew member at all times during a voyage! If not mounted prominently in the saloon, then crew should be supplied with personal mounted supply. (See photo below)". Fair comment.
Click images to enlarge
Medulin 16NM, 3hrs
Thursday August 24
Ahh Medulin. If only we'd understood what "A lively resort town" really meant! As we approached it became quite clear that it means heaving masses everywhere - on land, in the water, on the water, near the water. I felt a little overwhelmed after the peaceful bay as we had just left, but we anchored just outside the main town with a few other boats and launched the dinghy with a mission of buying alcohol to help us cope. Poor us eh? Anyway, it of course was not nearly as bad as we anticipated, especially as we promptly found a craft beer shop. We sampled some local brews and felt much calmer about things, and I soon became enamoured with the town after finding a giant bouncy chicken at the fun park.
I have honestly never seen so many boats crammed into one place. Rows and rows of jetties with boats squeezed into every space, as well as almost every mooring ball taken. The peninsula is like one massive campground for holiday makers from Europe, being so close for them I suppose. There was a constant flow of small boat traffic through and around the handful of yachts where we anchored, and as the sun was setting I saw a boatload of people struggling (and failing) to start their dinghy motor. They were drifting past us and I suggested to Colin that I holler out to see if they were okay. He wanted to know what I'd do if they weren't okay and I said "Send you out in the dinghy to tow them in" (of course), which is exactly what he did. They were very thankful. They had oars but a long way to go and small kids on board. Colin definitely did them a huge favour. He's a good man that Colin. That's why I go out with him. And because he's got a boat.
The next morning we spent deliberating over our next move. We had planned to explore the western coast of Istria then pick up our next guest in Pula on September 4th, but on closer examination it seemed there weren't a lot of places to stay as those that weren't "lively resort towns" were poor anchorages. We had plenty of time so we decided to head back down and further explore the to the Kvarnerić islands.
Click images to enlarge
Thursday August 24
Ahh Medulin. If only we'd understood what "A lively resort town" really meant! As we approached it became quite clear that it means heaving masses everywhere - on land, in the water, on the water, near the water. I felt a little overwhelmed after the peaceful bay as we had just left, but we anchored just outside the main town with a few other boats and launched the dinghy with a mission of buying alcohol to help us cope. Poor us eh? Anyway, it of course was not nearly as bad as we anticipated, especially as we promptly found a craft beer shop. We sampled some local brews and felt much calmer about things, and I soon became enamoured with the town after finding a giant bouncy chicken at the fun park.
I have honestly never seen so many boats crammed into one place. Rows and rows of jetties with boats squeezed into every space, as well as almost every mooring ball taken. The peninsula is like one massive campground for holiday makers from Europe, being so close for them I suppose. There was a constant flow of small boat traffic through and around the handful of yachts where we anchored, and as the sun was setting I saw a boatload of people struggling (and failing) to start their dinghy motor. They were drifting past us and I suggested to Colin that I holler out to see if they were okay. He wanted to know what I'd do if they weren't okay and I said "Send you out in the dinghy to tow them in" (of course), which is exactly what he did. They were very thankful. They had oars but a long way to go and small kids on board. Colin definitely did them a huge favour. He's a good man that Colin. That's why I go out with him. And because he's got a boat.
The next morning we spent deliberating over our next move. We had planned to explore the western coast of Istria then pick up our next guest in Pula on September 4th, but on closer examination it seemed there weren't a lot of places to stay as those that weren't "lively resort towns" were poor anchorages. We had plenty of time so we decided to head back down and further explore the to the Kvarnerić islands.
Click images to enlarge
Uvala Prklog 24.5NM, 4hrs
Friday August 25
First stop working our way back to Kvarner was the quiet bay of Prklog. We looked at Sveti Marina on the way but it was wall to wall boats on moorings with nowhere to anchor. One bay further on and we were the only boat there! Well, the only large boat. There were several small runabouts and dinghies around the edge of the bay, seemingly on private jetties that were accessed from the walking path leading to the headland. For all intents and purposes though we had the place to ourselves for the night. Hard to believe at this time of year. We did have a boat come in for a short spell in the late afternoon, loaded with people having fun on the slide at the back. I loved watching the different body positions between leaving the slide and hitting the water, and so my numerous photos will attest.
Click images to enlarge
Friday August 25
First stop working our way back to Kvarner was the quiet bay of Prklog. We looked at Sveti Marina on the way but it was wall to wall boats on moorings with nowhere to anchor. One bay further on and we were the only boat there! Well, the only large boat. There were several small runabouts and dinghies around the edge of the bay, seemingly on private jetties that were accessed from the walking path leading to the headland. For all intents and purposes though we had the place to ourselves for the night. Hard to believe at this time of year. We did have a boat come in for a short spell in the late afternoon, loaded with people having fun on the slide at the back. I loved watching the different body positions between leaving the slide and hitting the water, and so my numerous photos will attest.
Click images to enlarge
Rabac 3.7NM, 50min
Saturday August 26
We sailed into Rabac, another "lively resort town", expecting the worst. However, I don't think anything could be as lively as Medulin, and the madding crowds seemed to be contained up one end of town where the huge resort and campground were. There was no room to moor up on the pier, which worked out well as we were able anchor on the other side of the bay away from the hustle and bustle.
Our friend Monica had suggested we visit Labin, 5kms northwest of Rabac, where some of her family are from. We hired a scooter which barely made it up the steep climb (it was only 50cc after all) to the medieval streets of the old town of Labin, perched on a hilltop above the coast. Every old town we've visited has its own special feel, and the cobbled alleys and bright pastel houses on Labin were charming. We had lunch and wandered the streets, then did some shopping in the newer section of Podlabin (below Labin) that sprouted up as a result of the coal-mining industry. We returned the scooter after refuelling to the tune of $1.45 and returned to the boat.
The next morning we took the SUPs for a paddle and I took photos of the small waterfront area of town with its cafes, apartments, tiny beach, and tourist train. I got quite a few stares at the resort end of town as I cruised by taking photos. I'm not sure if it was because people felt it an intrusion, or because I was wearing a bright purple rashie with my pale blue cap that looks like a burka, or because the elastic in my bathers is going. Oh well, whatever the reason, I'LL NEVER SEE THESE PEOPLE AGAIN! (or so I always tell myself).
Click images to enlarge
Saturday August 26
We sailed into Rabac, another "lively resort town", expecting the worst. However, I don't think anything could be as lively as Medulin, and the madding crowds seemed to be contained up one end of town where the huge resort and campground were. There was no room to moor up on the pier, which worked out well as we were able anchor on the other side of the bay away from the hustle and bustle.
Our friend Monica had suggested we visit Labin, 5kms northwest of Rabac, where some of her family are from. We hired a scooter which barely made it up the steep climb (it was only 50cc after all) to the medieval streets of the old town of Labin, perched on a hilltop above the coast. Every old town we've visited has its own special feel, and the cobbled alleys and bright pastel houses on Labin were charming. We had lunch and wandered the streets, then did some shopping in the newer section of Podlabin (below Labin) that sprouted up as a result of the coal-mining industry. We returned the scooter after refuelling to the tune of $1.45 and returned to the boat.
The next morning we took the SUPs for a paddle and I took photos of the small waterfront area of town with its cafes, apartments, tiny beach, and tourist train. I got quite a few stares at the resort end of town as I cruised by taking photos. I'm not sure if it was because people felt it an intrusion, or because I was wearing a bright purple rashie with my pale blue cap that looks like a burka, or because the elastic in my bathers is going. Oh well, whatever the reason, I'LL NEVER SEE THESE PEOPLE AGAIN! (or so I always tell myself).
Click images to enlarge
Kvarner
Otok Krk
Punat 29.3NM, 5hrs
Sunday August 28
The forecast said a storm was brewing so we set off from Rabac around 1100hrs, arriving in Punat late afternoon. After mooring up in the marina we explored the facilities, then later set off for town as the marina restaurant was fully booked. We hadn't gone far when we spied a Konoba set back from the road next to a 'Diskont' shop. The place was packed but they found a seat for us inside and we had an inexpensive, Croatian meal with white wine local to the region, Žlahtina. The menu was translated into German and Italian only but we know enough Croatian now to be able to order. It's strange to be replied to in German though, spoken as the default language for tourists. I had to explain I spoke English and a little Croatian, otherwise I probably would have said yes to bread, again. We loved the place and its ramshackle charm and friendly staff, and the meal was very tasty.
The wind blew up during the night as a storm passed through, then again in the morning. We had thought about trying to get to the other side of the island to see the capital, Vrbnik, but with the bus times and the rain it all became a bit too hard so we wandered through town and had coffee instead, then returned to the boat and lazed about for the afternoon. Colin went on a journey to find out about 'enlightenment', as mentioned by Stephen Fry when talking about God (or a lack thereof) and I went off and had a massage. We dined at the marina restaurant that evening and had front row seats for a fantastic storm complete with thunder and lightening and sheets of rain. Such a treat, especially with a nice glass of red wine.
Click images to enlarge
Sunday August 28
The forecast said a storm was brewing so we set off from Rabac around 1100hrs, arriving in Punat late afternoon. After mooring up in the marina we explored the facilities, then later set off for town as the marina restaurant was fully booked. We hadn't gone far when we spied a Konoba set back from the road next to a 'Diskont' shop. The place was packed but they found a seat for us inside and we had an inexpensive, Croatian meal with white wine local to the region, Žlahtina. The menu was translated into German and Italian only but we know enough Croatian now to be able to order. It's strange to be replied to in German though, spoken as the default language for tourists. I had to explain I spoke English and a little Croatian, otherwise I probably would have said yes to bread, again. We loved the place and its ramshackle charm and friendly staff, and the meal was very tasty.
The wind blew up during the night as a storm passed through, then again in the morning. We had thought about trying to get to the other side of the island to see the capital, Vrbnik, but with the bus times and the rain it all became a bit too hard so we wandered through town and had coffee instead, then returned to the boat and lazed about for the afternoon. Colin went on a journey to find out about 'enlightenment', as mentioned by Stephen Fry when talking about God (or a lack thereof) and I went off and had a massage. We dined at the marina restaurant that evening and had front row seats for a fantastic storm complete with thunder and lightening and sheets of rain. Such a treat, especially with a nice glass of red wine.
Click images to enlarge
Otok Rab
Uvala Kristofor 24NM, 3.5hrs
Tuesday August 29
The weather forecast has usually been pretty accurate in our experience, but today the winds that were supposed to ease off at midday were still gusting at 1300hrs. We had a choppy motor/sail to the island of Rab. Colin tried to sail but the wind was all over the place, as wind is, and we'd be clocking 6kns one minute and 3kns the next. He decided to hedge his bets and use motor assistance so we'd get to our destination in a reasonable time.
The coastline of Rab is a bit like the hills of Vermont in that if you stretched it out you'd have a land mass the size of Texas. When we saw too many boats in one bay we just moved on to the next until we found one relatively uninhabited, and that's how we ended up in Kristofor. The winds calmed down in the evening and once again we woke to a glassed off ocean, perfect for SUPping. The bay was beautiful and the water spectacularly clear. There were also a number of bollards that had been carved into the rock. Definitely a place to come back to.
Click images to enlarge
Tuesday August 29
The weather forecast has usually been pretty accurate in our experience, but today the winds that were supposed to ease off at midday were still gusting at 1300hrs. We had a choppy motor/sail to the island of Rab. Colin tried to sail but the wind was all over the place, as wind is, and we'd be clocking 6kns one minute and 3kns the next. He decided to hedge his bets and use motor assistance so we'd get to our destination in a reasonable time.
The coastline of Rab is a bit like the hills of Vermont in that if you stretched it out you'd have a land mass the size of Texas. When we saw too many boats in one bay we just moved on to the next until we found one relatively uninhabited, and that's how we ended up in Kristofor. The winds calmed down in the evening and once again we woke to a glassed off ocean, perfect for SUPping. The bay was beautiful and the water spectacularly clear. There were also a number of bollards that had been carved into the rock. Definitely a place to come back to.
Click images to enlarge
Otok Cres
Uvala Majiška 11.2NM, 2hrs
Wednesday August 30
Again the coast on the southeast of Cres Island is indented with many coves, and the shores surrounding them are covered by dense vegetation making an ideal habitat for deer. We were lucky enough to see five of these adorable creatures in the morning, down near the water licking the BBQ plates clean or whatever it is they do. So cute and, well, doe-eyed. We SUPped around the bay and took photos of a branch of the cove where the vegetation meets the shoreline. There were four small boats moored up, and where else could you hop into your dinghy nude and visit your neighbours. Now there's a fine "How do you do?"!
Click images to enlarge
Wednesday August 30
Again the coast on the southeast of Cres Island is indented with many coves, and the shores surrounding them are covered by dense vegetation making an ideal habitat for deer. We were lucky enough to see five of these adorable creatures in the morning, down near the water licking the BBQ plates clean or whatever it is they do. So cute and, well, doe-eyed. We SUPped around the bay and took photos of a branch of the cove where the vegetation meets the shoreline. There were four small boats moored up, and where else could you hop into your dinghy nude and visit your neighbours. Now there's a fine "How do you do?"!
Click images to enlarge