Croatia 2018
Northern Dalmatia
Biograd na Moru (Biograd by the Sea)
Wednesday July 4, 2018 - July 12
We're back! After nine months at home that should have been seven Colin was finally released from the shackles of work and we returned to our beloved Loch Fyne Lass, ready for another season of cruising.
We've missed Croatia, not just the turquoise waters and lovely people but also the cuisine (are drinks considered cuisine?), and I've been looking forward to:
Grilled fish (first night)
Black beer (second afternoon)
Šljivovica (not yet, still plenty of time)
Poppy seed strudel (I said I wouldn't but I did)
We also missed Andrija and the staff from Burin Yacht Charters. We caught up with Andrija Thursday. He told us we were looking a bit worse for wear after our long flight, and here was I thinking we were looking pretty good considering! Tells it like it is, our Andrija.
Friday we had a happy reunion with our lovely ladies at the fresh market, and caught up with Branka from Marina Kornati to pay our outstanding and advance pen fees, planning to overwinter the boat in Biograd again. The Tourist Visas have taken a massive price hike since last year, from around $150 a year to $1500. Yikes! I guess this will just make things VERY expensive for our guests as we will most certainly need to pass this cost on. Ha, just joking (or am I?), not about the price hike, about passing on the cost.
Cruising preparations have begun. Colin's put his clever hand to making nets to hold our books in place whilst sailing, and this morning we made our first of what I assume will be many purchases at the Marina Store, a dry bag for washing laundry in. I had to ban Colin from that shop last year as I could hear our bank balance drop every time we walked through the door. Amazing what a loud noise it makes!
Saturday night was footy fever throughout the town with Croatia in the quarter finals. We had an early dinner and watched the match aboard the boat. Even Colin and I, non soccer fans, were on the edge of our seat during the final penalty shoot out. It was the stuff of movies, and when Croatia beat Russia at the very last minute we could hear hooting and hollering and horns in the streets and even the church bells ringing!! It's a huge deal for Croatia to even make it out of the first group! Marin, our electrician, already told us we wouldn't see him for 5 days if Croatia made it through to the semi-finals. Sigh. There goes our plan for fixing the chart plotter.
Monday we made a quick trip to Zadar to catch up with the lovely Linda who just finished work due to being pregnant. She gave us the run down on some facts about the exciting Croatian soccer team, five of whom are from Zadar. It's such an exciting time for Croatia! Linda's husband Igor came up with 'Karlo' to name their son, and when questioned on where he got the name realised he'd been inspired by their favourite beer, Karlovačko. Works for me said Linda.
A couple of shops later we had ourselves a fancy new stainless steel kettle to replace ours which rusted out over the winter, and a bluetooth speaker as we took ours home last year. Such excitement!
Wednesday Dobrodošli Carmel. Coming from Zürich and scheduled to arrive at 9pm Tuesday the poor love got stuck overnight in Cologne due a cancelled connecting flight (better than getting stuck overnight in Dog Swamp or Innaloo I suppose, or even Upper Swan for that matter). She arrived instead at 9am Wednesday at the Zadar airport. Colin met her whilst returning our hire car and they bussed back together to Biograd. Meanwhile I was sleeping off the worst of nasty cold given to me by my beloved Colin.
There was much rejoicing Wednesday night when Croatia won the semi-final against England. Fireworks, beeping horns, shouting and partying, the masses were overjoyed! (It's a strange thing, sport). It was another nail biting finish too. Well done Hrvatska!
Photos by Nic and Carmel. Click images to enlarge
We've missed Croatia, not just the turquoise waters and lovely people but also the cuisine (are drinks considered cuisine?), and I've been looking forward to:
Grilled fish (first night)
Black beer (second afternoon)
Šljivovica (not yet, still plenty of time)
Poppy seed strudel (I said I wouldn't but I did)
We also missed Andrija and the staff from Burin Yacht Charters. We caught up with Andrija Thursday. He told us we were looking a bit worse for wear after our long flight, and here was I thinking we were looking pretty good considering! Tells it like it is, our Andrija.
Friday we had a happy reunion with our lovely ladies at the fresh market, and caught up with Branka from Marina Kornati to pay our outstanding and advance pen fees, planning to overwinter the boat in Biograd again. The Tourist Visas have taken a massive price hike since last year, from around $150 a year to $1500. Yikes! I guess this will just make things VERY expensive for our guests as we will most certainly need to pass this cost on. Ha, just joking (or am I?), not about the price hike, about passing on the cost.
Cruising preparations have begun. Colin's put his clever hand to making nets to hold our books in place whilst sailing, and this morning we made our first of what I assume will be many purchases at the Marina Store, a dry bag for washing laundry in. I had to ban Colin from that shop last year as I could hear our bank balance drop every time we walked through the door. Amazing what a loud noise it makes!
Saturday night was footy fever throughout the town with Croatia in the quarter finals. We had an early dinner and watched the match aboard the boat. Even Colin and I, non soccer fans, were on the edge of our seat during the final penalty shoot out. It was the stuff of movies, and when Croatia beat Russia at the very last minute we could hear hooting and hollering and horns in the streets and even the church bells ringing!! It's a huge deal for Croatia to even make it out of the first group! Marin, our electrician, already told us we wouldn't see him for 5 days if Croatia made it through to the semi-finals. Sigh. There goes our plan for fixing the chart plotter.
Monday we made a quick trip to Zadar to catch up with the lovely Linda who just finished work due to being pregnant. She gave us the run down on some facts about the exciting Croatian soccer team, five of whom are from Zadar. It's such an exciting time for Croatia! Linda's husband Igor came up with 'Karlo' to name their son, and when questioned on where he got the name realised he'd been inspired by their favourite beer, Karlovačko. Works for me said Linda.
A couple of shops later we had ourselves a fancy new stainless steel kettle to replace ours which rusted out over the winter, and a bluetooth speaker as we took ours home last year. Such excitement!
Wednesday Dobrodošli Carmel. Coming from Zürich and scheduled to arrive at 9pm Tuesday the poor love got stuck overnight in Cologne due a cancelled connecting flight (better than getting stuck overnight in Dog Swamp or Innaloo I suppose, or even Upper Swan for that matter). She arrived instead at 9am Wednesday at the Zadar airport. Colin met her whilst returning our hire car and they bussed back together to Biograd. Meanwhile I was sleeping off the worst of nasty cold given to me by my beloved Colin.
There was much rejoicing Wednesday night when Croatia won the semi-final against England. Fireworks, beeping horns, shouting and partying, the masses were overjoyed! (It's a strange thing, sport). It was another nail biting finish too. Well done Hrvatska!
Photos by Nic and Carmel. Click images to enlarge
Otok Žut
Uvala Žutska Aba 11NM, 1hrs 55min
Thursday July 12 - Saturday 14
Thursday July 12 - Saturday 14
Having introduced Carmel to the joys of fresh grilled fish and bijelo vino we next introduced her to the joys of glass offs in little Croatian bays. Picture perfect first day, night and morning! So nice we stayed two nights.
Photos by Nic and Carmel. Click images to enlarge
Photos by Nic and Carmel. Click images to enlarge
Otok Žirje
Uvala Stupica Mala 23NM, 3hrs 55min
Saturday July 14 - Sunday 15
Saturday July 14 - Sunday 15
Perfect sailing day, light winds, only slightly ruffled waters. Carmel finished a book and I napped while the captain delivered us safely to Otok Žirje. In the morning we did a little land exploration.
Photos by Nic and Carmel. Click images to enlarge
Photos by Nic and Carmel. Click images to enlarge
Oštrica Peninsula
Uvala Mirine 14NM, 2hrs
Sunday July 15 - Tuesday 17
Sunday July 15 - Tuesday 17
Sunday Anticipating a thunderstorm we tucked into a well known safe anchorage for the night. No thunderstorm but some late lightening and a light rain which lasted just long enough for us to close all the hatches. We watched Croatia in the World Cup finals. They lost to France but it didn't stop the fireworks from going off all around us late into the evening. They did so well to get this far I hope there is much jubilation in this fact. Apparently a guy from Perth had "World Cup Winners Croatia 2018" tattooed on his back before the game. How embarrassing! (That he's Australian I mean). I guess he lost that bet.
Monday The predicted thunderstorm arrived in no uncertain terms! We retired to bed around 11pm after spending the day on calm waters SUPping and swimming. One minute it was quiet and still, next minute we heard the wind approaching and the storm was on us in less than a minute! It was a frantic scramble to close hatches, secure the dinghy and pull clothes off the line as the wind whipped up the water and the rain pelted down. Thunder and lightening struck all around us, the boat swung wildly and Colin started the motor as other boats in the bay started to drag, ending up on the other side from where they anchored! We are lucky to be with such an experienced skipper who is not just competent but calm (and calming) as well. True to form the storm blew through in an hour and all was quiet and calm again. Exciting stuff these storms, though I enjoy them much more once they're over!
Photos by Nic and Carmel. Click images to enlarge
Monday The predicted thunderstorm arrived in no uncertain terms! We retired to bed around 11pm after spending the day on calm waters SUPping and swimming. One minute it was quiet and still, next minute we heard the wind approaching and the storm was on us in less than a minute! It was a frantic scramble to close hatches, secure the dinghy and pull clothes off the line as the wind whipped up the water and the rain pelted down. Thunder and lightening struck all around us, the boat swung wildly and Colin started the motor as other boats in the bay started to drag, ending up on the other side from where they anchored! We are lucky to be with such an experienced skipper who is not just competent but calm (and calming) as well. True to form the storm blew through in an hour and all was quiet and calm again. Exciting stuff these storms, though I enjoy them much more once they're over!
Photos by Nic and Carmel. Click images to enlarge
Central Dalmatia
Otok Šolta
Uvala Nečujam 31NM, 5hrs 20min
Tuesday July 17 - Wednesday 18
Tuesday July 17 - Wednesday 18
We had a great sail from Uvala Mirine to Šolta with a 20kn tail wind all the way. We checked out a few bays on Šolta, settling in Uvala Nečujam where there were only a couple of other boats. While we were having our afternoon nap a charter boat dropped anchor near us and we woke to some rather panicked German voices VERY close! We ran upstairs and they were fending off our bow, having drifted across our anchor. It seemed the best thing for us to do was weigh anchor to avoid entanglement, and as soon as we did they did the same and took off. Judging by the wife's tone of voice I'm pretty sure the husband was gonna be sleeping in the dog house that night.
Just when Carmel and I were lamenting the fact we'd run out of alcohol, and that we could both do with a stiff drink after the storm last night and the recent German boat encounter, an angel arrived in a dinghy saying he had the best mojitos in Šolta, and who were we to argue?! They certainly were delicious and he made two girls very happy, and as Colin says happy crew, happy Captain!
At my insistence Carmel got in the water after dark to see the bioluminescence. I never get sick of it, little sparkles coming off your limbs as you move in the night water. Magical!
Next morning we SUPped, swam, and I tried out my new underwater camera on Decorator Urchins. This sea urchin will sometimes cover its body with various shells, plants and other materials to, according to popular theory, protect itself from damaging intense light and UV radiation. The covering behaviour may also protect the urchin from predators. I found one that had used a plastic bag as a covering. It looked like a wedding veil!
Photos by Nic and Carmel. Click images to enlarge
Just when Carmel and I were lamenting the fact we'd run out of alcohol, and that we could both do with a stiff drink after the storm last night and the recent German boat encounter, an angel arrived in a dinghy saying he had the best mojitos in Šolta, and who were we to argue?! They certainly were delicious and he made two girls very happy, and as Colin says happy crew, happy Captain!
At my insistence Carmel got in the water after dark to see the bioluminescence. I never get sick of it, little sparkles coming off your limbs as you move in the night water. Magical!
Next morning we SUPped, swam, and I tried out my new underwater camera on Decorator Urchins. This sea urchin will sometimes cover its body with various shells, plants and other materials to, according to popular theory, protect itself from damaging intense light and UV radiation. The covering behaviour may also protect the urchin from predators. I found one that had used a plastic bag as a covering. It looked like a wedding veil!
Photos by Nic and Carmel. Click images to enlarge
MOVIE:
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Split
ACI Marina, Split 9NM, 1hrs 45min
Wednesday July 18 - Thursday 19
Wednesday July 18 - Thursday 19
Split, home of Diocletian's Palace. What a treat to be back here! As we didn't arrive into the marina until 2.00pm the first order was lunch then a post-prandial nap. (You can thank Elizabeth George for any use I make of the terms pre- or post-prandial). Following that Carmel was off to the bus station to get a ticket out of town tomorrow and Colin and I stocked up at the Konzum supermarket. If you remember the song "Convoy" just substitute "Konzum" in the chorus and you've got yourself an ear worm that implants itself every time you go food shopping.
We had a very nice last meal with Carmel at Konoba Matejuška, the restaurant Colin and I ate at last year. I tried an Aperol Spritz on Carmel's recommendation. Bloody delicious, and possibly my new favourite thing (when there's no boat angel offering mojitos that is)! A stroll through the old city and an ice-cream finished the night beautifully, and I got to try the Black Chocolate flavour I've been eyeing off for a while.
The morning was for stocking up on fresh produce and fish at the markets, and saying farewell to our first guest of the season as she took the bus to the airport. Doviđenja Carmel. Safe travels home.
P.S. Colin says it's a little known fact that the "Banana Split" was invented here by the Romans in 300BC. Font of all knowledge, Colin.
Photos by Nic and Carmel. Click images to enlarge
We had a very nice last meal with Carmel at Konoba Matejuška, the restaurant Colin and I ate at last year. I tried an Aperol Spritz on Carmel's recommendation. Bloody delicious, and possibly my new favourite thing (when there's no boat angel offering mojitos that is)! A stroll through the old city and an ice-cream finished the night beautifully, and I got to try the Black Chocolate flavour I've been eyeing off for a while.
The morning was for stocking up on fresh produce and fish at the markets, and saying farewell to our first guest of the season as she took the bus to the airport. Doviđenja Carmel. Safe travels home.
P.S. Colin says it's a little known fact that the "Banana Split" was invented here by the Romans in 300BC. Font of all knowledge, Colin.
Photos by Nic and Carmel. Click images to enlarge
Otok Brač
Lučice 15NM, 3hrs
Thursday July 19 - Friday 20
Thursday July 19 - Friday 20
Continuing our way south we stop in at Lučice, a favourite from last year. There's been a price hike of 100 kuna a night, making it AU$70 just for a mooring! The bay was packed but fortunately quiet. No mojito man came offering drinks so I had to make do with vodka, soda and fresh lime.
Click images to enlarge
Click images to enlarge
Otok Korčula
Uvala Gradina 27.5NM, 4.5hrs
Friday July 20 - Saturday 21
Friday July 20 - Saturday 21
An overnight stay in a familiar bay on our way south.
Click images to enlarge
Click images to enlarge
Otok Mljet
Polače 39.2NM, 6.5hrs
Saturday July 21 - Tuesday 24
Saturday July 21 - Tuesday 24
We weighed anchor at 0815 to get started on the long haul to Polače on the island of Mljet. Another of our favourite places, it takes its name from the remains of a Roman palace from the 5th century. Our first afternoon/evening was quiet, with some swimming and deep aqua moves (or DEEPAQ as we now know it), and chicken on the BBQ for dinner, then the following day we went to land by SUP and booked ourselves Hobotniča Peka (Octopus under the Bell) at a local restaurant for later that evening. (As the occy has to cook in hot ashes for over two hours one must give adequate notice). Monday, however, brought with it a "Hell hath no fury" kinda storm. Lightening bolts, gusts of wind that blew the top off the BBQ, and deafening thunder that rocked the boat like a dynamite explosion! Colin started the motor and stood watch while I took photos and movies. Lucky I have that new waterproof camera!! As usual the worst was over in an hour and we could relax and enjoy the gentle rain. We love these Croatian storms, they're very exciting, or maybe it's just having a view from the water that makes them so dramatic! People seem to lament the fact we're having stormy weather but we enjoy the changing landscape and weather. There'll be plenty of hot weather to come so we enjoy the cool changes. Today was almost cool enough for a t-shirt!
Our post-storm evening of calm was marred only momentarily by some French sailors who decided, in a huge bay with lots of space, they would anchor right next to us. Spitting distance I'd say, and Colin did spit a few chips, then checked the weather and decided to move. Saves getting up in the middle of the night when the wind has shifted and they've dragged over our anchor whilst swinging onto the rocks behind them! The weather blows up so very quickly here that you don't want to find yourself in that situation. We were much more relaxed moving to where they should have anchored in the first place, and enjoyed a magnificent sunset without the worry of what might happen later.
I've missed hearing the birds this season that chirp like the beginning of the Coco Rosie song "Terrible Angels", but we've been lucky enough to hear roosters and hens throughout the day in Polače. They remind me of my girls back home, and every time a hear a chicken making a ruckus I say to Colin "Someone's laid an egg." It's the way of the chicken.
Click images to enlarge
Our post-storm evening of calm was marred only momentarily by some French sailors who decided, in a huge bay with lots of space, they would anchor right next to us. Spitting distance I'd say, and Colin did spit a few chips, then checked the weather and decided to move. Saves getting up in the middle of the night when the wind has shifted and they've dragged over our anchor whilst swinging onto the rocks behind them! The weather blows up so very quickly here that you don't want to find yourself in that situation. We were much more relaxed moving to where they should have anchored in the first place, and enjoyed a magnificent sunset without the worry of what might happen later.
I've missed hearing the birds this season that chirp like the beginning of the Coco Rosie song "Terrible Angels", but we've been lucky enough to hear roosters and hens throughout the day in Polače. They remind me of my girls back home, and every time a hear a chicken making a ruckus I say to Colin "Someone's laid an egg." It's the way of the chicken.
Click images to enlarge
MOVIE:
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Dubrovnik
ACI Marina, Dubrovnik 34.5NM, 5hrs
Tuesday July 24 - Wednesday 25
Tuesday July 24 - Wednesday 25
Dubrovnik was a stopover for filling gas bottles, getting fuel, and backing up computers to iCloud whilst on marina wifi. Important stuff! We didn't brave the masses to see the Old Town this trip, though we sailed close to the walled city on our way south for another view of this formidable fortress.
On one of our provisioning outings we came across a most interesting plant that looked like it had a nasty disease, but in fact the leaves were covered in some kind of blossom that appeared to have seeds inside. I've never seen anything like it!
Colin made a cracking loaf of sourdough from a starter he'd been brewing over the past few days. The aim is to throw a loaf in the kettle BBQ while it cools after cooking, but the first loaf was done in the oven. Delicious it was too!
Click images to enlarge
On one of our provisioning outings we came across a most interesting plant that looked like it had a nasty disease, but in fact the leaves were covered in some kind of blossom that appeared to have seeds inside. I've never seen anything like it!
Colin made a cracking loaf of sourdough from a starter he'd been brewing over the past few days. The aim is to throw a loaf in the kettle BBQ while it cools after cooking, but the first loaf was done in the oven. Delicious it was too!
Click images to enlarge
Tiha, near Cavtat
Uvala Tiha 14NM, 3hrs 35min
Wednesday July 25 - Thursday 26
Wednesday July 25 - Thursday 26
In preparation for departing Croatia we anchored for the night in Tiha, the next bay over from Cavtat where we would clear customs. Unfortunately the most sheltered place, just north of Tiha, did not look very friendly for anchoring so we were stuck in an exposed bay with a weedy bottom in a reasonably strong breeze. Busy too with day tripper boats going in and out 'til dark, and with freezing cold water, I expect from all the recent rain. It didn't stop me having a dip but it did stop me staying in to do DeepAq! The wind was constant, and although it was only around 20kns we heard some shouting around 11pm when one of the other boats in the bay dragged anchor. Colin was on deck checking the action and keeping watch when suddenly we too were dragging. I heard the motor start and Colin calling me as we dragged towards shore. We quickly weighed anchor and moved to a more secure (but equally windy) place a short distance away. Although the anchor stayed fast Colin spent most of the night in the cockpit keeping watch. You wouldn't call it our most restful night!
Cavtat was only a few minutes around the corner in the morning, and clearing customs was a relatively easy procedure. Customs jetty, Harbour Master, Police, then we were on our way to Montenegro! Farewell Croatia. We love you and will be back soon!!
Click images to enlarge
Cavtat was only a few minutes around the corner in the morning, and clearing customs was a relatively easy procedure. Customs jetty, Harbour Master, Police, then we were on our way to Montenegro! Farewell Croatia. We love you and will be back soon!!
Click images to enlarge