Croatia 2019
Northern Dalmatia
GLOSSARY
Otok - Island
Uvala - Cove or bay
Otok - Island
Uvala - Cove or bay
Biograd na Moru (Biograd by the Sea)
Thursday April 25 - Thursday May 2
Our 2019 sailing adventure has begun. Transit to Croatia was the usual 21 hours of flying (including a 3 hour stopover in Doha) followed by a 3 hour drive to Biograd na Moru, home sweet home away from home. We were tired, needless to say, but delighted to be greeted by beautiful white swans at the marina. Setting our sights on an early night we managed to unpack linen and make the bed before heading to our favourite Konoba Barba for dinner. The evening was cool but the Konoba was toasty with the warmth from the wood fired grill. Greeted by the regular waitress we've come to know (who was run off her feet as usual but still managed friendly service) we ordered our staples - grilled seabass and mixed grill. It did not disappoint.
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Sunday we saw our gorgeous ladies at the growers markets, Vesna and Jeka (not her name but it sounded something like that). They gave us big hugs and kisses and we loaded up on fresh veggies, goat cheese, anchovies, eggs, walnuts and almonds, all from their backyards! Well, maybe not the anchovies.
After dropping the goods at the boat we took the car to do the rest of the grocery shopping, and stopped in at Intersport to buy weights so I can keep up my strength exercises. The young guy who served us was very sweet and was grateful to have an opportunity to speak in English. He had a friend in a seminary in Melbourne, and had himself recently returned from a seminary in Ireland, in Dundalk no less. I told him I spoke a little Croatian, and at the till he asked if I'd learned any swear words. Although we both commented it would be better if I didn't say what I'd learned it was an invitation too good to resist, so I told him the story of how when I'd said 'kukavica' (meaning coward) our Croatian friends thought I'd said 'kurvica' (meaning little whore). Meanwhile a number of people had gathered at the counter, to whom I profusely apologised. Well he DID ask.
Later we wandered the Riva (waterfront) and were in time to see the tail end of the 'Slovenian Weekend' festivities. Now there's a concept, a weekend to attract residents from a neighbouring country. Our friend Andrija later told us there are Slovenians in Biograd all the time anyway, but it's also the beginning of the tourist season so why not draw a crowd? We got to see some runners pacing it out from downtown to the Lido and back, about half a kilometre. There were all ages, shapes and sizes from parents with small children to strapping men and women. The night finished with a band but we were back on the boat by then, ticked up with ugg boots on and hot cup of tea in hand. The evenings are cold and it seems the air temperature drops 10 degrees in the 10 minutes it takes the sun to go down. Thank goodness for a boat heater!
Click images to enlarge
After dropping the goods at the boat we took the car to do the rest of the grocery shopping, and stopped in at Intersport to buy weights so I can keep up my strength exercises. The young guy who served us was very sweet and was grateful to have an opportunity to speak in English. He had a friend in a seminary in Melbourne, and had himself recently returned from a seminary in Ireland, in Dundalk no less. I told him I spoke a little Croatian, and at the till he asked if I'd learned any swear words. Although we both commented it would be better if I didn't say what I'd learned it was an invitation too good to resist, so I told him the story of how when I'd said 'kukavica' (meaning coward) our Croatian friends thought I'd said 'kurvica' (meaning little whore). Meanwhile a number of people had gathered at the counter, to whom I profusely apologised. Well he DID ask.
Later we wandered the Riva (waterfront) and were in time to see the tail end of the 'Slovenian Weekend' festivities. Now there's a concept, a weekend to attract residents from a neighbouring country. Our friend Andrija later told us there are Slovenians in Biograd all the time anyway, but it's also the beginning of the tourist season so why not draw a crowd? We got to see some runners pacing it out from downtown to the Lido and back, about half a kilometre. There were all ages, shapes and sizes from parents with small children to strapping men and women. The night finished with a band but we were back on the boat by then, ticked up with ugg boots on and hot cup of tea in hand. The evenings are cold and it seems the air temperature drops 10 degrees in the 10 minutes it takes the sun to go down. Thank goodness for a boat heater!
Click images to enlarge
Monday we met Andrija (our mate from Burin Yacht Charters) for coffee in the old town of Zadar then picked up supplies at Bauhaus, the Bunnings of Croatia. We managed to talk ourselves out of a vacuum cleaner for the boat and an expensive socket set, and left with only a couple of screwdrivers, some dishcloths, and some stick-on wall hooks (joy of joys - now I can hang stuff from hooks AS WELL as all the door handles!).
You could say we had a little trouble buying meat for dinner from the supermarket butcher. We tried for couple of steaks but ended up with two 'too thin' pork steaks, then in trying for beef steaks got two mammoth slabs of meat weighing 1.7kg! We laughed, then wondered how on earth we were going to cook them!
Tuesday Marin (our mate from Pitter Yachting) fixed the chain counter by installing a new sensor and we said our goodbyes, all of us expressing sadness at having to part. We then headed back into Zadar to buy more wall hooks at Bauhaus (epic success, except the one that broke almost immediately which they replaced with no fuss), drop off the rental car, and climb the Cathedral of St. Anastasia for views over the old town. Following this we bought fabric to make SUP covers, had coffee near the sea organ (at which point I discovered Colin was wearing the dirtiest t-shirt imaginable), and ate a slice from an impressive pizza shop (first time I've seen a pizza base so big it had to be draped over an arm). I was on a mission for the illusive vanilla strudel but was out of luck. So many bakeries, so many choices, but no vanilla. However, on the way to the bus station I found a bakery with a choice of strudel fillings of cheese, cheese or cheese, which made it much easier for me to choose, and I chose cheese. It was a sweet ricotta-like cheese and it was perfectly delicious!
Back in Biograd we settled up the bill with Branka at Marina Kornati and said our fond farewells. We will be sad to leave our much loved Biograd na Moru, our Northern summer home for three years.
Wednesday (May 1st) was supposed to be exit day, but May Day is a holiday so the customs office was closed. I told Colin we knew that, but he thought the holiday was May 4th. I said he was confusing it with Star Wars Day (May the 4th be with you). As May 1st is the day everyone goes swimming (and then catches cold) we thought we'd better do the same (except the catching cold bit). Colin said it wasn't as frigid as he thought it would be, but that's because he didn't go out deep enough where the water was FREEZING! I loved it though, the numbingly cold water and the sensation afterwards standing in the cool air. Hence why I love swimming in winter.
We had hoped to cook the humongous Tyrannosaurus steaks on the BBQ but instead had to make do indoors (you can't really BBQ off the back of the boat whilst in a marina), so Colin tried oven braising them. They were very tasty, if not a tiny bit chewy. Alas poor Rex, I knew him well.
Click images to enlarge
You could say we had a little trouble buying meat for dinner from the supermarket butcher. We tried for couple of steaks but ended up with two 'too thin' pork steaks, then in trying for beef steaks got two mammoth slabs of meat weighing 1.7kg! We laughed, then wondered how on earth we were going to cook them!
Tuesday Marin (our mate from Pitter Yachting) fixed the chain counter by installing a new sensor and we said our goodbyes, all of us expressing sadness at having to part. We then headed back into Zadar to buy more wall hooks at Bauhaus (epic success, except the one that broke almost immediately which they replaced with no fuss), drop off the rental car, and climb the Cathedral of St. Anastasia for views over the old town. Following this we bought fabric to make SUP covers, had coffee near the sea organ (at which point I discovered Colin was wearing the dirtiest t-shirt imaginable), and ate a slice from an impressive pizza shop (first time I've seen a pizza base so big it had to be draped over an arm). I was on a mission for the illusive vanilla strudel but was out of luck. So many bakeries, so many choices, but no vanilla. However, on the way to the bus station I found a bakery with a choice of strudel fillings of cheese, cheese or cheese, which made it much easier for me to choose, and I chose cheese. It was a sweet ricotta-like cheese and it was perfectly delicious!
Back in Biograd we settled up the bill with Branka at Marina Kornati and said our fond farewells. We will be sad to leave our much loved Biograd na Moru, our Northern summer home for three years.
Wednesday (May 1st) was supposed to be exit day, but May Day is a holiday so the customs office was closed. I told Colin we knew that, but he thought the holiday was May 4th. I said he was confusing it with Star Wars Day (May the 4th be with you). As May 1st is the day everyone goes swimming (and then catches cold) we thought we'd better do the same (except the catching cold bit). Colin said it wasn't as frigid as he thought it would be, but that's because he didn't go out deep enough where the water was FREEZING! I loved it though, the numbingly cold water and the sensation afterwards standing in the cool air. Hence why I love swimming in winter.
We had hoped to cook the humongous Tyrannosaurus steaks on the BBQ but instead had to make do indoors (you can't really BBQ off the back of the boat whilst in a marina), so Colin tried oven braising them. They were very tasty, if not a tiny bit chewy. Alas poor Rex, I knew him well.
Click images to enlarge
Guest blurb from Captain Colin
I have always liked to have an electronic chartplotter/GPS both upstairs and downstairs. This lets you keep an eye on what is going on in bad weather if you are down below - or while you are off watch down below.
The boat came with an oldish chartplotter upstairs in the cockpit, so in the first year we put a new chart plotter downstairs. All good - everyone happy.
However, last year we put a new radar in, but it wouldn’t “talk” to the old chart plotter in the cockpit, so we got a new chart plotter installed, even newer than the new one downstairs! Normally these gadgets are designed to “talk” to each other - especially when they are all made by the same company (Raymarine) - but when we switched everything on last year at the beginning of the season it became obvious that the upstairs and downstairs chartplotters would not talk to each other. In their infinite wisdom, Raymarine had used new software and was not going to upgrade the software in the older chartplotters. Very very frustrating - the only way we could get the chartplotters to talk to each other was to get the same new one downstairs as we had put in upstairs, which we did. Not just frustrating but also very costly, and many swear words were aimed at Raymarine.
We also installed a remote control for the anchor that works from the helm, and it counts out how many metres of anchor chain we have out. This means I can operate the anchor while steering the boat, and Nic becomes redundant! Oh well, she will have to focus on her other skills to remain relevant.
I have always liked to have an electronic chartplotter/GPS both upstairs and downstairs. This lets you keep an eye on what is going on in bad weather if you are down below - or while you are off watch down below.
The boat came with an oldish chartplotter upstairs in the cockpit, so in the first year we put a new chart plotter downstairs. All good - everyone happy.
However, last year we put a new radar in, but it wouldn’t “talk” to the old chart plotter in the cockpit, so we got a new chart plotter installed, even newer than the new one downstairs! Normally these gadgets are designed to “talk” to each other - especially when they are all made by the same company (Raymarine) - but when we switched everything on last year at the beginning of the season it became obvious that the upstairs and downstairs chartplotters would not talk to each other. In their infinite wisdom, Raymarine had used new software and was not going to upgrade the software in the older chartplotters. Very very frustrating - the only way we could get the chartplotters to talk to each other was to get the same new one downstairs as we had put in upstairs, which we did. Not just frustrating but also very costly, and many swear words were aimed at Raymarine.
We also installed a remote control for the anchor that works from the helm, and it counts out how many metres of anchor chain we have out. This means I can operate the anchor while steering the boat, and Nic becomes redundant! Oh well, she will have to focus on her other skills to remain relevant.
Otok Pašman
Uvala Soline 9.9NM, 2hrs 25min, motored until we got around the south end of Pašman Island then sailed with jib
Thursday May 2 - Monday May 6
Mooring ball 120kn/night (~AUD$24)
Thursday May 2 - Monday May 6
Mooring ball 120kn/night (~AUD$24)
Thursday and we're finally away! Colin was at the customs office at opening time, only to find their computers weren't working. It's their first day open for the season so I suppose one should expect teething problems. Not to be deterred we replenished food stocks and Colin returned two hours later to a functioning office. Cruising permit in hand we motored on out of there. After refuelling we hit the ocean highway around 1100hrs, arriving at our destination at 1330hrs. We headed to the southern end of the bay for the best shelter from the wind and picked up a mooring. Soon the the boats started filing in and we ended up with neighbours from New Zealand on a 42' Hallberg-Rassy named Lobi. We were chatting with young Fyfe, who came to visit in his dinghy, and he explained that 10 days ago he joined his uncle Roderick who bought the boat in Trieste and was gradually making his way home to NZ over the next few years. They were off to have dinner with some Austrians they'd met earlier in the day, but we caught up with them for coffee Friday morning and checked out their plush boat. I thanked Fyfe for being the catalyst for a dream I had about Nat Fyfe, AFL Brownlow Medalist and captain of the Fremantle Dockers, though unfortunately most of the dream was about their dreadful coach!
Friday, Saturday and Sunday a few boats came and went and we stayed put, waiting out the southerly winds. We had daily visits from two young lads in a dinghy collecting mooring fees of 120kn. Sunday afternoon/evening the much anticipated Bora (northerly storm) hit, though not from the direction expected! The wet weather gear came out, the engine went on, and we waited it out upstairs ready to move if the mooring line broke. It held fast though, the storm blew through pretty quickly, and we settled in for a quiet night. The boys didn't come to collect a fee. Couldn't blame 'em.
Click images to enlarge
Friday, Saturday and Sunday a few boats came and went and we stayed put, waiting out the southerly winds. We had daily visits from two young lads in a dinghy collecting mooring fees of 120kn. Sunday afternoon/evening the much anticipated Bora (northerly storm) hit, though not from the direction expected! The wet weather gear came out, the engine went on, and we waited it out upstairs ready to move if the mooring line broke. It held fast though, the storm blew through pretty quickly, and we settled in for a quiet night. The boys didn't come to collect a fee. Couldn't blame 'em.
Click images to enlarge
Otok Ugljan
Uvala Lamjana Mala 10NM, 1hrs 30min, motor sailing with jib
Monday May 6 - Tuesday May 7
Anchored in 5m
Monday May 6 - Tuesday May 7
Anchored in 5m
Across a short bridge from Pašman Island lies Ugljan. We set sail around 1035hrs, and though we only travelled 10nm we at least started heading in the right direction to get to northern Italy. The wind was freezing coming off the snowy mountains, whipping up whitecaps and numbing our faces. We were dressed for it though. I myself had four layers on top and 3 on the bottom, including my wet weather overalls and jacket. Complete with ugg boots I was toasty despite the wind.
It's been my mission to swim every day and convince Colin to as well as often as I can. Today, however, when I asked when we should go swimming he said "In about a month?". The sun came out in the afternoon though and warmed our souls (if nothing else) so we took the opportunity and had a quick dip (really quick). I told a friend this morning, who was having visions of me 'luxuriating in sunshine', that it wasn't quite like that, but I do love the stormy weather and icy water and being here for the changing of the seasons. It’s a treat to see spring unfurling into summer, and there’ll be enough heat when it finally comes.
Click images to enlarge
It's been my mission to swim every day and convince Colin to as well as often as I can. Today, however, when I asked when we should go swimming he said "In about a month?". The sun came out in the afternoon though and warmed our souls (if nothing else) so we took the opportunity and had a quick dip (really quick). I told a friend this morning, who was having visions of me 'luxuriating in sunshine', that it wasn't quite like that, but I do love the stormy weather and icy water and being here for the changing of the seasons. It’s a treat to see spring unfurling into summer, and there’ll be enough heat when it finally comes.
Click images to enlarge
Otok Silba
Luka Silba 33NM, 5hrs 40min, motored most of the way but able to sail for ~45 mins between the islands of Ugljan and Olib
Tuesday May 7 - Wednesday May 8
Anchored in 5m
Tuesday May 7 - Wednesday May 8
Anchored in 5m
With a glassed off morning we set off at 0800hrs to get a jump on the day. The rays of the sun warmed us until a tiny bit of wind blew down from those icy peaks and I was back in my wet weather gear, thermals, scarf and gloves. Away from the shelter of the islands we were able to hoist the jib and main and sail with the northerly wind for a while, but it was short lived. We arrived in Silba to find the area in front of the harbour devoid of moorings. Where did they all go we wondered? We were happy to drop anchor though, especially as it meant no fees, and we dinghied into town for a walk and to pick up a few supplies. Unfortunately for me the bakery that makes the best poppyseed strudels in Croatia has not yet opened for the season. Whaaaaaaaaa 😭.
Click images to enlarge
Click images to enlarge
Kvarner
Otok Lošinj via Otok Ilovik
Uvala Liski 24.2NM, 3hrs 50min, motor sailed to Ilovik, sailed to Liske
Wednesday May 8 - Thursday May 9
Anchored in 5m
Wednesday May 8 - Thursday May 9
Anchored in 5m
Departing Silba at 0930hrs we headed to the small island of Ilovik, arriving around midday. Colin had thought we might find an open bakery here, bless him. Illogical, but he knew I was disappointed the Silba bakery was closed. Alas, no strudels in sight, but we had a wander through the picturesque township and enjoyed the empty streets. Last time we were here it was The Feast of the Madonna and there was a spectacular bell ringing demonstration.
We jumped back onboard around 1300hrs and had a pleasant sail to the island of Lošinj, anchoring in a quiet, protected bay, the only ones in there.
Click images to enlarge
We jumped back onboard around 1300hrs and had a pleasant sail to the island of Lošinj, anchoring in a quiet, protected bay, the only ones in there.
Click images to enlarge
Istria
Pula
ACI Marina, Pula 36.4NM, 5hrs 10min, sailed with 3m seas, 25kn winds, incessant rain
Thursday May 9 - Friday May 10
580kn/night (~AUD$125)
Thursday May 9 - Friday May 10
580kn/night (~AUD$125)
Don't get me wrong, I like a good sail as much as the next first mate, but as the contents of my pre-prepared cereal bowl slopped out I reminded Colin how someone told me it would be a nice gentle sail with a following wind. Colin looked around and asked "Where’s that bulls**t artist?". He then mentioned that the weather forecast and what he tells me do not always match. This he told me an hour into a 5 hour sail in 3m swell, 25kn winds, incessant rain, and a wind chill factor that would keep ice frozen. I was pulling out the life jackets and making sure I knew how to use the EPIRBs just around the time Colin was reaching for his brown corduroy trousers. Not a happy first mate, but the Captain, oh he was in his element! 'Man against the sea' stuff, that's what he loves. Pfft.
Just after midday, having embarked on this journey at 0700hrs, we finally, THANKFULLY, pulled into the marina in Pula. We plugged into power, turned the heater on, ate (neither of us having managed breakfast on the way due to the conditions), and when we lay down for a much deserved nap the rain ceased and the sun came out!
Later we indulged in steaming hot showers then went out for dinner. I think my body had still not warmed up and I took advantage of the rug on offer to cover my legs during dinner. I also ate with my gloves on. The idea of an ice-cream for dessert rapidly faded and we headed back to the boat, cranked the heater up again, and settled in with a warm cup of tea.
Colin finds it difficult to comprehend that being tossed around in a boat at the mercy of the high seas is not my idea of a good time, so the next morning he read me an article about how facing adversity makes you mentally stronger. I sensed a twinge of guilt. I did enjoy seeing dolphins riding the bow wave though. That's always a treat.
I do find such conditions challenging and it often takes me a day to recover mentally because of the fear it generates. Colin never puts us at risk and always feels in control, but as I'm not the one driving the boat I don't always feel that.
Click images to enlarge
Just after midday, having embarked on this journey at 0700hrs, we finally, THANKFULLY, pulled into the marina in Pula. We plugged into power, turned the heater on, ate (neither of us having managed breakfast on the way due to the conditions), and when we lay down for a much deserved nap the rain ceased and the sun came out!
Later we indulged in steaming hot showers then went out for dinner. I think my body had still not warmed up and I took advantage of the rug on offer to cover my legs during dinner. I also ate with my gloves on. The idea of an ice-cream for dessert rapidly faded and we headed back to the boat, cranked the heater up again, and settled in with a warm cup of tea.
Colin finds it difficult to comprehend that being tossed around in a boat at the mercy of the high seas is not my idea of a good time, so the next morning he read me an article about how facing adversity makes you mentally stronger. I sensed a twinge of guilt. I did enjoy seeing dolphins riding the bow wave though. That's always a treat.
I do find such conditions challenging and it often takes me a day to recover mentally because of the fear it generates. Colin never puts us at risk and always feels in control, but as I'm not the one driving the boat I don't always feel that.
Click images to enlarge
Rovinj
Southern part of the bay 18NM, 2hrs 40min, motor-sailed with jib
Friday May 10 - Saturday May 11
Mooring ball 204kn (~AUD$44)
Friday May 10 - Saturday May 11
Mooring ball 204kn (~AUD$44)
After a sleep in we managed to get off the boat around 0900hrs to wander through town for a few supplies. We started with strudels from the closest bakery, then made our way to the markets for goat cheese and meat, and finished up with a few supermarket items. We were eager to get moving so we didn't revisit the tourist attractions we saw last time here, but got packed up and on our way by 1130hrs. Today really was a gentle breeze, so gentle we had to motor-sail, but we made good time and were moored up in Rovinj around 1415hrs.
Colin tackled the other Tyrannosaurus steak for dinner, this time on the barbecue. We agreed it was a very tough but tasty piece of meat, and also agreed the butcher was having a lend when he gave it to us.
Sitting upstairs we watched the sun set with the entertainment of some very noisy and argumentative seagulls, though they weren't arguing with us necessarily. A sailboat crossed under the setting sun for some superb photo opportunities taken by the captain.
Photos by Nic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
Colin tackled the other Tyrannosaurus steak for dinner, this time on the barbecue. We agreed it was a very tough but tasty piece of meat, and also agreed the butcher was having a lend when he gave it to us.
Sitting upstairs we watched the sun set with the entertainment of some very noisy and argumentative seagulls, though they weren't arguing with us necessarily. A sailboat crossed under the setting sun for some superb photo opportunities taken by the captain.
Photos by Nic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
Umag via Poreč
ACI Marina Umag 28nm, 4hrs, motored Rovinj to Poreč (1.5hrs), sailed Poreč to Umag (2.5hrs)
Mooring ball south side of Poreč harbour (no charge)
Saturday May 11 - Sunday May 12
ACI Marina 568kn (~AUD$122)
Mooring ball south side of Poreč harbour (no charge)
Saturday May 11 - Sunday May 12
ACI Marina 568kn (~AUD$122)
Sometimes when I'm going through my photos I think "I wonder if that guy knows I'm following him around?" because often that's how it looks, the snapshots of Colin in forward motion as he explores the town. I like it though, that sense of moving through a place and capturing it in stills.
As we had limited time to get to Umag before the wind became too strong we headed north to Poreč rather than revisiting Rovinj, delightful a place though it is. We picked up a mooring outside the old town and dinghied in to spend a few hours exploring. The 6th-century Euphrasian Basilica was fascinating, built on the site of a 4th-century oratory. We struggled to get our heads around the fact some of the artefacts were 1500 to 1600 years old, though Colin did comment that it pales into insignificance when we consider the 60,000 year old aboriginal rock art in Australia. Colin also shook his head in wonder that the Poreč inhabitants continually built over the beautiful mosaic groundworks. We got fabulous views from the belfry and descended only seconds before the bells rang. Poreč has its own unique feel, as all the old towns do, and we felt lucky to be here before the bustling crowds of summer. Pre-season is a wonderful time to visit, despite the occasionally inclement weather conditions.
Luckily the wind hadn't whipped up too much by the time we left at 1400hrs and we had a lovely sail to Umag, the very conditions in fact that Colin had promised last Friday!
Click images to enlarge
As we had limited time to get to Umag before the wind became too strong we headed north to Poreč rather than revisiting Rovinj, delightful a place though it is. We picked up a mooring outside the old town and dinghied in to spend a few hours exploring. The 6th-century Euphrasian Basilica was fascinating, built on the site of a 4th-century oratory. We struggled to get our heads around the fact some of the artefacts were 1500 to 1600 years old, though Colin did comment that it pales into insignificance when we consider the 60,000 year old aboriginal rock art in Australia. Colin also shook his head in wonder that the Poreč inhabitants continually built over the beautiful mosaic groundworks. We got fabulous views from the belfry and descended only seconds before the bells rang. Poreč has its own unique feel, as all the old towns do, and we felt lucky to be here before the bustling crowds of summer. Pre-season is a wonderful time to visit, despite the occasionally inclement weather conditions.
Luckily the wind hadn't whipped up too much by the time we left at 1400hrs and we had a lovely sail to Umag, the very conditions in fact that Colin had promised last Friday!
Click images to enlarge