Northern Dalmatia with Geoff
Zadar 16NM, 3hrs
Saturday July 15
We arrived in Zadar mid-afternoon and after a late lunch parted ways with Geoff for an afternoon nap, me and Colin on the Lass and Geoff off to his rented apartment in the old city (though he reports getting waylaid by a couple of English crew from a huge motor cruiser and having beers with them instead).
That evening we dined at Bon Appetite on Linda's recommendation. Situated on the Riva it's very picturesque and we had a delightful waitress who expanded my Croatian repertoire adding "Like a sunset" as description of the meal. She spilled red wine on Geoff but he was pretty relaxed about it. She'd told us it was only her second week waitressing there and I asked if she thought it might be her last. She took it in the humour it was intended. Geoff and I shared a traditional Dalmatian dish called Morska Teća - a stew of Monkfish, shrimp, octopus, mussels, and homemade pasta. It was gorgeous, like a sunset!
Sunday Colin got an early start and hoofed it the 5kms up to the Supernova to get a soda stream refill. Meanwhile Geoff checked out of his apartment and onto Loch Fyne Lass. Dobrodošli...Welcome! We set off to the markets in the old city to get fresh provisions, and some not so fresh, like the slab of meat off some aged, cured animal as the butcher didn't have any bacon. I'm sure it will be highly delicious!
We set sail for the islands around 1300hrs, pastries in hand from the bakery, icing sugar flying everywhere in the gusty northerly wind.
Click images to enlarge
We arrived in Zadar mid-afternoon and after a late lunch parted ways with Geoff for an afternoon nap, me and Colin on the Lass and Geoff off to his rented apartment in the old city (though he reports getting waylaid by a couple of English crew from a huge motor cruiser and having beers with them instead).
That evening we dined at Bon Appetite on Linda's recommendation. Situated on the Riva it's very picturesque and we had a delightful waitress who expanded my Croatian repertoire adding "Like a sunset" as description of the meal. She spilled red wine on Geoff but he was pretty relaxed about it. She'd told us it was only her second week waitressing there and I asked if she thought it might be her last. She took it in the humour it was intended. Geoff and I shared a traditional Dalmatian dish called Morska Teća - a stew of Monkfish, shrimp, octopus, mussels, and homemade pasta. It was gorgeous, like a sunset!
Sunday Colin got an early start and hoofed it the 5kms up to the Supernova to get a soda stream refill. Meanwhile Geoff checked out of his apartment and onto Loch Fyne Lass. Dobrodošli...Welcome! We set off to the markets in the old city to get fresh provisions, and some not so fresh, like the slab of meat off some aged, cured animal as the butcher didn't have any bacon. I'm sure it will be highly delicious!
We set sail for the islands around 1300hrs, pastries in hand from the bakery, icing sugar flying everywhere in the gusty northerly wind.
Click images to enlarge
Otok Ugljan
Pavlešina 9.4NM, 2hrs
Sunday July 16
It was a short but high spirited sail around to the west side of Ugljan to tuck in out of the Bora. The northeasterly wind certainly cools things down, a welcome relief after the hot days in Biograd na Moru.
Click images to enlarge
Sunday July 16
It was a short but high spirited sail around to the west side of Ugljan to tuck in out of the Bora. The northeasterly wind certainly cools things down, a welcome relief after the hot days in Biograd na Moru.
Click images to enlarge
Lamjana Mala 10NM, 2hrs
Monday July 17
With with the wind behind us we had lovely sail to this large and quiet bay. Being so shallow everywhere we were able to anchor away from any neighbours.
Geoff decided "Korčula" sounded more like an instrument of torture than an island, and not having many on board we decided to give the name to the spaghetti spoon. "Hand me the Korčula fair maiden. I'm about to dish up!"
Click images to enlarge
Monday July 17
With with the wind behind us we had lovely sail to this large and quiet bay. Being so shallow everywhere we were able to anchor away from any neighbours.
Geoff decided "Korčula" sounded more like an instrument of torture than an island, and not having many on board we decided to give the name to the spaghetti spoon. "Hand me the Korčula fair maiden. I'm about to dish up!"
Click images to enlarge
Kornati National Park
Otok KornatThe Kornati National Park is composed of 89 islands, islets and rocks. Its allure is in the dramatic contrast of Karstic rocks against deep blue water, and it certainly is a unique and beautiful sight.
The islands are privately owned by residents of Murter and Dugi Otok, bought from the Zadar aristocracy 100 years ago by their ancestors who then built many kilometres of rock walls to divide their properties and raise sheep. We bought a pass for the National Park whilst in Biograg na Moru and on Tuesday afternoon headed over to the islands from Ugljan, stopping first on Kornat, the largest of the islands. |
Uvala Statival 11.4NM, 2hrs
Tuesday July 18
This quiet little cove is on the northeast end of Kornat. Geoff caught some stunning early morning photos and got a bit experimental with his reflections.
Photos by Geoff. Click images to enlarge
Tuesday July 18
This quiet little cove is on the northeast end of Kornat. Geoff caught some stunning early morning photos and got a bit experimental with his reflections.
Photos by Geoff. Click images to enlarge
Uvala Šipnate 5.2NM, 1hr
Wednesday July 19
We had a glorious motor around the western end of Kornat, through amazing landscapes which have been described as 'lunar'. It was spectacular! The rocks form swirls and lines that can't help but impress, and the water is most alluring. We anchored in the sparsely populated cove of Šipnate, though Geoff found out it was a thoroughfare for boats heading to the rest of the island when he ventured out on the SUP. Later we went in to the Konoba Šoleta, tucked almost out of sight, for a beer or two. Now THAT is exactly what Colin got the new dinghy for. Finally vindicated!
The Konoba looked like a family affair. Mother and father and a young couple with kids. I especially liked the waitress as she told me I spoke good Croatian. Her father, on the other hand, seemed a little bit put out when I asked for salt for the chips. Of course they didn't NEED salt but I hadn't tasted them yet, so perhaps that's why. A common mistake.
Click images to enlarge
Wednesday July 19
We had a glorious motor around the western end of Kornat, through amazing landscapes which have been described as 'lunar'. It was spectacular! The rocks form swirls and lines that can't help but impress, and the water is most alluring. We anchored in the sparsely populated cove of Šipnate, though Geoff found out it was a thoroughfare for boats heading to the rest of the island when he ventured out on the SUP. Later we went in to the Konoba Šoleta, tucked almost out of sight, for a beer or two. Now THAT is exactly what Colin got the new dinghy for. Finally vindicated!
The Konoba looked like a family affair. Mother and father and a young couple with kids. I especially liked the waitress as she told me I spoke good Croatian. Her father, on the other hand, seemed a little bit put out when I asked for salt for the chips. Of course they didn't NEED salt but I hadn't tasted them yet, so perhaps that's why. A common mistake.
Click images to enlarge
Thursday July 20
In recent history the Kornat island became infamous as the site of the "Kornat Tragedy" (Kornatska tragedija) when a group of firefighters were flown in as part of the 2007 coastal fires firefighting efforts. Thirteen of the twenty three firemen got stranded between two hills with no water (the large water canister landed 500 meters away from them) and became encircled by a wall of fire. Twelve perished in the event which was the biggest loss of lives in the history of Croatian firefighting. There is a cemetery and 12 stone crosses on the hillside. We hiked up to see them and were awe struck by these massive monuments and the sheer effort and skill required to build them. Very humbling.
Click images to enlarge
In recent history the Kornat island became infamous as the site of the "Kornat Tragedy" (Kornatska tragedija) when a group of firefighters were flown in as part of the 2007 coastal fires firefighting efforts. Thirteen of the twenty three firemen got stranded between two hills with no water (the large water canister landed 500 meters away from them) and became encircled by a wall of fire. Twelve perished in the event which was the biggest loss of lives in the history of Croatian firefighting. There is a cemetery and 12 stone crosses on the hillside. We hiked up to see them and were awe struck by these massive monuments and the sheer effort and skill required to build them. Very humbling.
Click images to enlarge
Uvala Strižnja 2.2NM, 45min
Thursday July 20
We headed south and east to another bay on Kornat Island for the night. There were less opportunities for anchoring but we managed to squeeze in next to a man fishing naked on his boat. What a treat. Men seem to be hanging naked off boats everywhere. Reminds me of monkeys in the forrest, just swinging from limb to limb naked, but on a boat. Very advanced.
Colin decided it best to see what the Karlovačko tasted like in this bay so we went for an afternoon drink at Konoba Darko. We had a lovely waiter from Pakistan, who fled there three years ago and spent a year in asylum in Turkey and then got a visa for Croatia. He said he and I were learning Hrvatsko together, though he was far more advanced than me needless to say.
We've been hearing sheep since we got to Kornat but today saw some close enough to photograph.
Click images to enlarge
Thursday July 20
We headed south and east to another bay on Kornat Island for the night. There were less opportunities for anchoring but we managed to squeeze in next to a man fishing naked on his boat. What a treat. Men seem to be hanging naked off boats everywhere. Reminds me of monkeys in the forrest, just swinging from limb to limb naked, but on a boat. Very advanced.
Colin decided it best to see what the Karlovačko tasted like in this bay so we went for an afternoon drink at Konoba Darko. We had a lovely waiter from Pakistan, who fled there three years ago and spent a year in asylum in Turkey and then got a visa for Croatia. He said he and I were learning Hrvatsko together, though he was far more advanced than me needless to say.
We've been hearing sheep since we got to Kornat but today saw some close enough to photograph.
Click images to enlarge
Uvala Vrulje 1NM, 15min
Friday July 21
Just around the bend we found the peaceful bay of Vrulje. All the prime spots were taken up with mooring buoys owned by different restaurants, which we assumed meant commitment, so we dropped anchor at the end of the line. We later found out that it's okay to pull up on a restaurant buoy and cook on your boat, but not to go to another restaurant. That would be uncool. We ended up dining at Konoba Sontele. I loved the simplicity of the menu. The waiter said "We have beef steak, chicken or fish". The meals were simple but delicious, though the fish was a little (VERY) pricey. We enjoyed sunset views back at the boat whilst introducing Geoff to Rummikub.
Around 0430hrs Colin and I were woken by the sounds of wind and rain. We closed the hatches and watched a distant lightening storm with accompanying rolling thunder. The wind never really amounted to much but it's always good to be alert and ready to move. We've already seen how quickly these storms can strengthen and drag a boat on anchor.
Click images to enlarge
Friday July 21
Just around the bend we found the peaceful bay of Vrulje. All the prime spots were taken up with mooring buoys owned by different restaurants, which we assumed meant commitment, so we dropped anchor at the end of the line. We later found out that it's okay to pull up on a restaurant buoy and cook on your boat, but not to go to another restaurant. That would be uncool. We ended up dining at Konoba Sontele. I loved the simplicity of the menu. The waiter said "We have beef steak, chicken or fish". The meals were simple but delicious, though the fish was a little (VERY) pricey. We enjoyed sunset views back at the boat whilst introducing Geoff to Rummikub.
Around 0430hrs Colin and I were woken by the sounds of wind and rain. We closed the hatches and watched a distant lightening storm with accompanying rolling thunder. The wind never really amounted to much but it's always good to be alert and ready to move. We've already seen how quickly these storms can strengthen and drag a boat on anchor.
Click images to enlarge
Uvala Lopatica 3.6NM, 1hr
Saturday July 22
The outer island of Piškera boasts the 'deepest cliff' in the Kornati National Park, so we took a detour to see it then returned to Kornat and the next bay along that allows overnight anchoring, which is only permitted in particular coves. We suspect it's the ones with Konobas, perhaps to boost the local economy.
I was enamoured by the sheep trotting around the hillsides braying to each other. When we arrived Colin took me in the dinghy to get photos of some close to shore, under a tree, disguising themselves as rocks and standing like statues. Perhaps they thought we couldn't see them if they didn't move.
As has become our habit we had to check if the Karlovačko was of decent quality at Konoba Beban. The boys took the dinghy and I arrived by SUP, a stylish entry according to an English couple having drinks. The Konoba had no chips and no bread but plenty of beer, which made my SUP back was a bit more challenging.
In the morning I SUPped over to check on my flock and say good morning. They were coming down the hillside and congregating under the tree, assuming their positions. Such sweet looking things. Colin and Geoff can't fathom that as an Australian I'm not sick of sheep, but then I've never had to shear them.
Click images to enlarge
Saturday July 22
The outer island of Piškera boasts the 'deepest cliff' in the Kornati National Park, so we took a detour to see it then returned to Kornat and the next bay along that allows overnight anchoring, which is only permitted in particular coves. We suspect it's the ones with Konobas, perhaps to boost the local economy.
I was enamoured by the sheep trotting around the hillsides braying to each other. When we arrived Colin took me in the dinghy to get photos of some close to shore, under a tree, disguising themselves as rocks and standing like statues. Perhaps they thought we couldn't see them if they didn't move.
As has become our habit we had to check if the Karlovačko was of decent quality at Konoba Beban. The boys took the dinghy and I arrived by SUP, a stylish entry according to an English couple having drinks. The Konoba had no chips and no bread but plenty of beer, which made my SUP back was a bit more challenging.
In the morning I SUPped over to check on my flock and say good morning. They were coming down the hillside and congregating under the tree, assuming their positions. Such sweet looking things. Colin and Geoff can't fathom that as an Australian I'm not sick of sheep, but then I've never had to shear them.
Click images to enlarge
Uvala Šipnate 11.2NM, 2hrs 45min
Sunday July 23
Try as we might to stay on an island other than Kornat we were out of luck. The weather dictated we overnight in Ravni Žakan, an island at the southeastern end of the Kornatis, as everything else was too exposed. However they only had mooring balls, and when we pulled up on one we soon had a visitor from Konoba Larus asking if we would be staying for lunch or dinner as the moorings were only for guests of the restaurant. At AUD$104/kg for fish and $56 for a T-bone steak we quickly figured out why! We politely declined and left.
It turned out to be a fortuitous move as we returned to our favourite cove, Šipnate, in time to order Hobotnica Peka (Octopus under the lid). On our previous visit the lovely young waitress told us it was on the menu but that it needed to be ordered 2 - 3 hours ahead. I had an interesting time booking the restaurant and ordering the octopus in Croatian with the father who spoke very little English, but we got there in the end. Three people, minimum 2kgs, three hours to bake, ready at 8pm. It was the best we've had so far!
On returning to the boat we went for a dip and were enchanted by the bioluminescence sparkling in the water when we moved our limbs. It was like tiny sparkles exploding off our skin. It was mesmerising, and the water was so warm. I wanted to stay in all night!
I've included two photos from the Konoba Šoleta FaceBook page to show you the lovely young couple and, you guessed it, sheep!
Click images to enlarge
Sunday July 23
Try as we might to stay on an island other than Kornat we were out of luck. The weather dictated we overnight in Ravni Žakan, an island at the southeastern end of the Kornatis, as everything else was too exposed. However they only had mooring balls, and when we pulled up on one we soon had a visitor from Konoba Larus asking if we would be staying for lunch or dinner as the moorings were only for guests of the restaurant. At AUD$104/kg for fish and $56 for a T-bone steak we quickly figured out why! We politely declined and left.
It turned out to be a fortuitous move as we returned to our favourite cove, Šipnate, in time to order Hobotnica Peka (Octopus under the lid). On our previous visit the lovely young waitress told us it was on the menu but that it needed to be ordered 2 - 3 hours ahead. I had an interesting time booking the restaurant and ordering the octopus in Croatian with the father who spoke very little English, but we got there in the end. Three people, minimum 2kgs, three hours to bake, ready at 8pm. It was the best we've had so far!
On returning to the boat we went for a dip and were enchanted by the bioluminescence sparkling in the water when we moved our limbs. It was like tiny sparkles exploding off our skin. It was mesmerising, and the water was so warm. I wanted to stay in all night!
I've included two photos from the Konoba Šoleta FaceBook page to show you the lovely young couple and, you guessed it, sheep!
Click images to enlarge
Biograd na Moru 18.1NM, 4hrs 15min
Monday July 24
The boys put the sails up and assumed a leisurely pace tacking back to the coast. We had planned to anchor in Biograd but the forecast said possible thunderstorms with gusts up to 45kns, and by the time we entered the marina the wind was already up. We had a difficult time )to say the least) mooring up, and ended up hitting the jetty with the port stern before being blown sideways onto it. We could argue that the marina staff didn't let the stern rope off when we asked him to after Geoff lost the bow line, but it was a series of errors and misjudgements that got us to that point, both on his part and ours. No harm done, except to my blood pressure and a small gouge out of the back the boat. Nothing that a beer and bit of gelcoat couldn't fix!
We dined at a restaurant on the Riva and arrived back at the boat just in time to baton down the hatches before a cracker of a storm hit. Thunder, lightening all around us, rain, winds about 30 knots. We had sat that afternoon and watched a flotilla of sailing boats arrive on the other side of the jetty, thinking how much easier it was for them backing into the wind instead of being blown sideways by it, but when the storm hit they were obviously not secured well at the bow and all swung into each other. There was a flurry of activity while people returned to their boats to secured them and close hatches. Geoff and Colin helped some pull their boats off the others and their sterns off the jetty.
Tuesday we sail farewell to Geoff who was finally making his way home after many months of sailing and land travel in the northern hemisphere. Doviđenja Geoff. We enjoyed sharing many laughs and adventures with you in the incredible Kornati Islands.
Click images to enlarge
The boys put the sails up and assumed a leisurely pace tacking back to the coast. We had planned to anchor in Biograd but the forecast said possible thunderstorms with gusts up to 45kns, and by the time we entered the marina the wind was already up. We had a difficult time )to say the least) mooring up, and ended up hitting the jetty with the port stern before being blown sideways onto it. We could argue that the marina staff didn't let the stern rope off when we asked him to after Geoff lost the bow line, but it was a series of errors and misjudgements that got us to that point, both on his part and ours. No harm done, except to my blood pressure and a small gouge out of the back the boat. Nothing that a beer and bit of gelcoat couldn't fix!
We dined at a restaurant on the Riva and arrived back at the boat just in time to baton down the hatches before a cracker of a storm hit. Thunder, lightening all around us, rain, winds about 30 knots. We had sat that afternoon and watched a flotilla of sailing boats arrive on the other side of the jetty, thinking how much easier it was for them backing into the wind instead of being blown sideways by it, but when the storm hit they were obviously not secured well at the bow and all swung into each other. There was a flurry of activity while people returned to their boats to secured them and close hatches. Geoff and Colin helped some pull their boats off the others and their sterns off the jetty.
Tuesday we sail farewell to Geoff who was finally making his way home after many months of sailing and land travel in the northern hemisphere. Doviđenja Geoff. We enjoyed sharing many laughs and adventures with you in the incredible Kornati Islands.
Click images to enlarge