Nísos Meganisi
Órmos Abelike 7.8nm, 2hrs 15min
Monday August 20 - Wednesday 22
Monday August 20 - Wednesday 22
We took a trip to shore the next morning to get a few provisions at the tiny supermarket, forgetting the shopping list and the rubbish (the latter which Colin took a second run in to dispose of), then I did some practise backing up to a mooring buoy. The time was approaching (i.e. in a few hours) when we wouldn't be able to anchor and swing but would have to back up to shore and tie off, and I was not looking forward to it! Personally I thought we should wait until there were more men on board to attempt such a complicated endeavour, but Colin insisted it would be fine, and in fact he was right, it all went very smoothly. He went ahead in the dinghy to attach a line to the shore while I did donuts in the bay, then he clambered aboard and reversed while I dropped the anchor and he picked up the stern line (buoy attached). Easy! We pulled back on the anchor to make sure it was holding then settled in to our amazing spot with our own turquoise pool at the stern. Paradise!
As Colin was noting the day's mileage I casually asked why our trip log total had gone backwards. He said “Well we did go in reverse for quite a while”. However, we all know from “Ferris Bueller’s Day Off” it doesn’t work like that. He vowed to look into it…later. It was 36 degrees after all, and hot with it, as my father would say. So hot in fact we were in and out of the water all afternoon until it started to cool off around 1840hrs. Sheesh, it's a tough life!
Boat chores on Tuesday in the shape of rat deterrents on the line ashore. Yes, rats! Another reason I should have adopted the kitten from Órmos Vlihko. The last time a rat tried to board the boat was in Okuklje, Croatia, and it ran half way up the stern line then banged a u-turn. Here apparently they can be a real problem, and they're sneaky because they work at night and chew things that you didn't want chewed, like electrical cables and lines ashore. Colin rigged up an extremely sophisticated 'rat stopper' out of a coke bottle and plastic dish. It would have to be a pretty tricky rat to get past ingenuity like that! (See picture below)
Before we left Órmos Abelike Colin cleaned speedo/log impeller. He says it always makes him a bit nervous removing it and leaving a gaping hole in the bottom of the boat, which you have to quickly plug before you start sinking. The impeller was well and truly encrusted with crud, which Colin dutifully scraped off with a knife. Trip log was operational once again.
Click images to enlarge
As Colin was noting the day's mileage I casually asked why our trip log total had gone backwards. He said “Well we did go in reverse for quite a while”. However, we all know from “Ferris Bueller’s Day Off” it doesn’t work like that. He vowed to look into it…later. It was 36 degrees after all, and hot with it, as my father would say. So hot in fact we were in and out of the water all afternoon until it started to cool off around 1840hrs. Sheesh, it's a tough life!
Boat chores on Tuesday in the shape of rat deterrents on the line ashore. Yes, rats! Another reason I should have adopted the kitten from Órmos Vlihko. The last time a rat tried to board the boat was in Okuklje, Croatia, and it ran half way up the stern line then banged a u-turn. Here apparently they can be a real problem, and they're sneaky because they work at night and chew things that you didn't want chewed, like electrical cables and lines ashore. Colin rigged up an extremely sophisticated 'rat stopper' out of a coke bottle and plastic dish. It would have to be a pretty tricky rat to get past ingenuity like that! (See picture below)
Before we left Órmos Abelike Colin cleaned speedo/log impeller. He says it always makes him a bit nervous removing it and leaving a gaping hole in the bottom of the boat, which you have to quickly plug before you start sinking. The impeller was well and truly encrusted with crud, which Colin dutifully scraped off with a knife. Trip log was operational once again.
Click images to enlarge
Nísos Lefkas
Órmos Sívota 13.8nm, 3hrs
Wednesday August 22 - Thursday 23
Wednesday August 22 - Thursday 23
Departing Órmos Abelike we wound our way in and out of the bays, scoping out future anchorages and stopping in one for lunch. We returned to Lefkas, anchoring further down the coast in Órmos Sívota, a cute little bay with, as usual, a lot of waterfront activity. There were only a handful of boats in the small anchoring area when we arrived around 1500hrs but as the evening wore on there was a constant stream of yachts coming in, some anchoring but most pulling up to jetties or the pier.
Too close to shore to bother putting the motor on the dinghy, Colin rowed us in to suss out places for provisioning tomorrow. We checked out the three tiny supermarkets and a wine shop, and had a cocktail at the Sívota Bakery (as you do).
Many of the restaurants and shops advertised shower and laundry facilities. Great idea! It was always so difficult and expensive to get laundry done in Croatia. Here you don’t even have to get off your boat to find somewhere, and the prices seem more reasonable. These small towns really cater well for the cruising crowd.
There seemed to be a mass exodus from the bay around 1100hrs on Thursday, which included us. The water had been fresh and blue in the morning but seemed churned up and smelling of diesel as we left, so we stopped just outside the bay for our second swim, to cool off before heading to Ithaca.
Click images to enlarge
Too close to shore to bother putting the motor on the dinghy, Colin rowed us in to suss out places for provisioning tomorrow. We checked out the three tiny supermarkets and a wine shop, and had a cocktail at the Sívota Bakery (as you do).
Many of the restaurants and shops advertised shower and laundry facilities. Great idea! It was always so difficult and expensive to get laundry done in Croatia. Here you don’t even have to get off your boat to find somewhere, and the prices seem more reasonable. These small towns really cater well for the cruising crowd.
There seemed to be a mass exodus from the bay around 1100hrs on Thursday, which included us. The water had been fresh and blue in the morning but seemed churned up and smelling of diesel as we left, so we stopped just outside the bay for our second swim, to cool off before heading to Ithaca.
Click images to enlarge
Nísos Itháki (Ithaca)
Port Áy Nikólaos 9.4nm, 2hrs
Thursday August 23 - Friday 24
Thursday August 23 - Friday 24
Modern Ithaca is generally identified with Homer's Ithaca, the home of Odysseus, whose delayed return to the island is the plot of the classical Greek tale the Odyssey. The first bay we came to looked so inviting with those turquoise waters beckoning that we couldn’t go past. We anchored and held fast but soon the wind swung 180 degrees. Colin pulled back on the anchor to make sure we would hold but we dragged, so we reset it in the same place, but not before pootling around the bay to see if there was a better spot. Nope.
Although Croatia stole our hearts, the thing we're really loving about Greece is that no-one comes out to your boat and takes money from you to stay! In Croatia almost all the lovely bays had mooring balls you paid for and no option to anchor for free.
The daytime crowds of charter boats dispersed in the afternoon, heading somewhere for dinner no doubt, and only a handful of boats remained. A boat of lovely ladies anchored close to us towards evening and promptly took all their clothes off. It was a bit awful for Colin but he faced it stoically.
Click images to enlarge
Although Croatia stole our hearts, the thing we're really loving about Greece is that no-one comes out to your boat and takes money from you to stay! In Croatia almost all the lovely bays had mooring balls you paid for and no option to anchor for free.
The daytime crowds of charter boats dispersed in the afternoon, heading somewhere for dinner no doubt, and only a handful of boats remained. A boat of lovely ladies anchored close to us towards evening and promptly took all their clothes off. It was a bit awful for Colin but he faced it stoically.
Click images to enlarge
Nísos Kálamos
Porto Leone via Nísos Kastos 15.5nm, 4hrs 35min
Friday August 24 - Sunday 26
Friday August 24 - Sunday 26
A most pleasant way to start your day, the sound of bells tinkling as a herd of goats make their way down the hill to the beach.
The bay emptied out pretty quickly in the morning as a mild easterly blew up, to which we were exposed, but compared to Perth winds it was barely a zephyr. Still, any sign of wind and a sailor feels compelled to sail, so we left our gorgeous anchorage with the turquoise clean waters and only two other boats in the bay to sail to islands northeast. The conditions were glorious for sailing, it has to be said, and we were motor-free the entire way. To top it off we saw a turtle popping to the surface as we sailed by. The water was so blue it looked purple, and so deep the depth meter stopped registering, which it does below 150m.
We arrived at Nísos Kastos and pulled into Port Sarakiniko, a gorgeous little bay on the west side with an island in the middle. Though it was beautiful we had anchored over rock and didn't feel comfortable staying overnight, so we had lunch and went across the channel to Nísos Kálamos. Not quite as pristine and blue, more greenish with a silty bottom and lots of rubbish on the sea floor, but safer to anchor in. This turned into an interesting exercise when we anchored in the traditional way but had it politely made clear by an Englishman next to us that we should tie up to the shore because charter boats would be coming in later jostling for space all around us. We didn't think boats would tie up to shore this close to the beach but that's exactly what happened, so we were glad we took his advice. We pulled the stern around and tied to the shore without moving the anchor, which left it curved on the sea floor. After careful examination Colin said he was happy with it, but I later found out he was trying to minimise effort for my sake. It got too much for him however, and at dusk we released the stern ropes and reset the anchor, just before another boat pulled in within spitting distance. Good timing. At least we felt secure that the bow wouldn't move if the wind picked up. Colin got up rather early to reattach the port shore line that had come off the submerged rock it was tied to. He also said there was thunder and lightening around 0300hrs but I'd slept right through it. That's what missing an afternoon nap does to a girl!
Porto Leone is the Venetian name for the small village of Kefali, which had been deserted since the 1953 earthquake destroyed the local water supply and inhabitants decided to emigrate rather than rebuild. Every Sunday a few people come from Kálamos to clean the church, which is still in use, and say a few prayers. It still houses the sacred image of the Virgin Mary which is also considered a miracle worker.
We had the delightful sounds of goats braying in the evening and morning, and were lucky enough to see some close to shore. We were also lucky enough to see another turtle as we motored to Nísos Kastos.
Click images to enlarge
The bay emptied out pretty quickly in the morning as a mild easterly blew up, to which we were exposed, but compared to Perth winds it was barely a zephyr. Still, any sign of wind and a sailor feels compelled to sail, so we left our gorgeous anchorage with the turquoise clean waters and only two other boats in the bay to sail to islands northeast. The conditions were glorious for sailing, it has to be said, and we were motor-free the entire way. To top it off we saw a turtle popping to the surface as we sailed by. The water was so blue it looked purple, and so deep the depth meter stopped registering, which it does below 150m.
We arrived at Nísos Kastos and pulled into Port Sarakiniko, a gorgeous little bay on the west side with an island in the middle. Though it was beautiful we had anchored over rock and didn't feel comfortable staying overnight, so we had lunch and went across the channel to Nísos Kálamos. Not quite as pristine and blue, more greenish with a silty bottom and lots of rubbish on the sea floor, but safer to anchor in. This turned into an interesting exercise when we anchored in the traditional way but had it politely made clear by an Englishman next to us that we should tie up to the shore because charter boats would be coming in later jostling for space all around us. We didn't think boats would tie up to shore this close to the beach but that's exactly what happened, so we were glad we took his advice. We pulled the stern around and tied to the shore without moving the anchor, which left it curved on the sea floor. After careful examination Colin said he was happy with it, but I later found out he was trying to minimise effort for my sake. It got too much for him however, and at dusk we released the stern ropes and reset the anchor, just before another boat pulled in within spitting distance. Good timing. At least we felt secure that the bow wouldn't move if the wind picked up. Colin got up rather early to reattach the port shore line that had come off the submerged rock it was tied to. He also said there was thunder and lightening around 0300hrs but I'd slept right through it. That's what missing an afternoon nap does to a girl!
Porto Leone is the Venetian name for the small village of Kefali, which had been deserted since the 1953 earthquake destroyed the local water supply and inhabitants decided to emigrate rather than rebuild. Every Sunday a few people come from Kálamos to clean the church, which is still in use, and say a few prayers. It still houses the sacred image of the Virgin Mary which is also considered a miracle worker.
We had the delightful sounds of goats braying in the evening and morning, and were lucky enough to see some close to shore. We were also lucky enough to see another turtle as we motored to Nísos Kastos.
Click images to enlarge
Nísos Kastos
Porto Kastos 6.9nm, 2hrs
Sunday August 26 - Monday 27
Sunday August 26 - Monday 27
We took our time going the short distance to our destination, calibrating the wind vane and checking out potential anchorages along the way. The island of Kastos has only one village, also named Kastos, located on its east coast. We anchored outside the port and were thankful we did when we later paddle boarded in and found a mad scramble of boats fighting for space in a very small harbour. It reminded me of 'bumper cars' but with boats. Meanwhile a rather large and imposing motor boat beeped it's sonorous horn, and not just once, attempting to leave the pier with boats in its way trying to anchor.
Click images to enlarge
Click images to enlarge
Nísos Itháki (Ithaca)
Porto Kióni via Nísís Atoko 14.9nm, 3hrs 35min
Monday August 27 - Tuesday 29
Monday August 27 - Tuesday 29
Nísís Atoko
On our way to Ithaca we stopped for lunch in 'One House Bay' on the little Nísís Atoko. The water looked divine, as did the whole scene with lush greenery contrasting intricately patterned rock faces. We considered staying the night but the anchorage is only recommended in settled weather, which was not exactly what we were expecting, so we swam and ate and swam again, then headed to Ithaca as originally intended.
Click images to enlarge
On our way to Ithaca we stopped for lunch in 'One House Bay' on the little Nísís Atoko. The water looked divine, as did the whole scene with lush greenery contrasting intricately patterned rock faces. We considered staying the night but the anchorage is only recommended in settled weather, which was not exactly what we were expecting, so we swam and ate and swam again, then headed to Ithaca as originally intended.
Click images to enlarge
Porto Kióni
"Mooring Ooh La La" by Colin Campbell
Unsettled weather had been predicted and, true to form, as we approached Kióni it started raining and storm clouds had gathered. We held off from entering the bay as the first showers passed and then went in to suss out our options. There was a nice clear spot available with good tie off points to the shore so we set ourselves up to go in. It all went off well, we dropped the anchor in nearly 20m of water with a steep slope up to the shore and nearly 50m of chain so our bow wasn’t going to move. We pulled back against the anchor and I finned ashore quickly to tie us off at the shore. I pulled in the slack and we were pretty safe. Just in time it turned out as thunder and lightning presaged the next storm.
We noticed a few boats had come in and were milling around being sensible and hanging off until the weather blew through. Thunderstorms are notoriously unpredictable and can generate strong gusts from any direction, often changing 180degrees from one minute to the next.
This wasn’t enough to put off a boat with two French couples though. Much to our disbelief they started backing in between us and the next boat to attempt to moor up, but they didn’t have stern lines ready and didn’t bother dropping their anchor which is sort of a key part of the manoeuvre! One of the blokes jumped in the water to swim a line ashore as the two female crew started fending the boat off the one next to us as, predictably, they blew up against it. I think this is known as 'the Braille method' of mooring. The rope they were leading ashore came off the back of the boat, so the skipper who was theoretically controlling the whole circus promptly jumped off the back of the boat and swam after it. When his wife noticed he wasn’t there anymore she took over the helm, quite non-plussed. I think this was normal mooring procedure for them. They got one rope tied to shore and the skipper back on board, then went out and dropped the anchor before coming in again. They tied the one line off but that meant their stern now swung up against us. Nic and I stood fending them off, and the wife had a nonchalant shrug of her shoulders half apologising, saying this is how it always seemed to go when they moored up.
I don't think I have ever seen a better example of exactly how NOT to attempt the Mediterranean mooring!! Though you have to hand it to them, there was not a single shout or any sign of panic the whole time, maybe it was just “C’est la vie”.
Click images to enlarge
"Mooring Ooh La La" by Colin Campbell
Unsettled weather had been predicted and, true to form, as we approached Kióni it started raining and storm clouds had gathered. We held off from entering the bay as the first showers passed and then went in to suss out our options. There was a nice clear spot available with good tie off points to the shore so we set ourselves up to go in. It all went off well, we dropped the anchor in nearly 20m of water with a steep slope up to the shore and nearly 50m of chain so our bow wasn’t going to move. We pulled back against the anchor and I finned ashore quickly to tie us off at the shore. I pulled in the slack and we were pretty safe. Just in time it turned out as thunder and lightning presaged the next storm.
We noticed a few boats had come in and were milling around being sensible and hanging off until the weather blew through. Thunderstorms are notoriously unpredictable and can generate strong gusts from any direction, often changing 180degrees from one minute to the next.
This wasn’t enough to put off a boat with two French couples though. Much to our disbelief they started backing in between us and the next boat to attempt to moor up, but they didn’t have stern lines ready and didn’t bother dropping their anchor which is sort of a key part of the manoeuvre! One of the blokes jumped in the water to swim a line ashore as the two female crew started fending the boat off the one next to us as, predictably, they blew up against it. I think this is known as 'the Braille method' of mooring. The rope they were leading ashore came off the back of the boat, so the skipper who was theoretically controlling the whole circus promptly jumped off the back of the boat and swam after it. When his wife noticed he wasn’t there anymore she took over the helm, quite non-plussed. I think this was normal mooring procedure for them. They got one rope tied to shore and the skipper back on board, then went out and dropped the anchor before coming in again. They tied the one line off but that meant their stern now swung up against us. Nic and I stood fending them off, and the wife had a nonchalant shrug of her shoulders half apologising, saying this is how it always seemed to go when they moored up.
I don't think I have ever seen a better example of exactly how NOT to attempt the Mediterranean mooring!! Though you have to hand it to them, there was not a single shout or any sign of panic the whole time, maybe it was just “C’est la vie”.
Click images to enlarge
It certainly was an interesting welcome to Kióni. I hadn't panicked on our trip yet, even when we dragged in Tiha Bay and had to move in the middle of the night, but this had me very nervous. If it hadn't looked so dangerous it would have been a laugh a minute with the two men deaf and repeating themselves louder and louder, the rope not being tied on, the woman at the helm reversing while her husband swam back to the boat with the retrieved the rope (at this point I had visions of limbs being chopped in the prop but she put it in neutral just as he climbed aboard), the women fending off the boats either side and introducing themselves as they did so, and Philippe saying at the end of it all "One day we'll get it right, but I don't know when". At least we all laughed and no one got hurt, and once everyone was settled and secure we relaxed to the sound of steady rain.
Tuesday was paradise again, sunny and warm, though the morning started out so cold Colin had to put a t-shirt on! As we 'walked' the dinghy along the mooring ropes to shore we saw the owner of the coiled blue hose filling up boats with water at €3 per 50 litres. He offered his hand to help us out of the dinghy, which is the kind of friendliness we've been experiencing all over Greece. Delightful!
Kióni was gorgeous. Such a pretty little town with a lovely, friendly feel to it. The streets were incredibly narrow for car traffic, and watching the trucks manoeuvre through them without taking out a few chairs and souvenir stands was a marvel in itself, though a side mirror did graze the high table we sat at having coffee. We found a bakery that served Espresso Freddo, something I've been wanting to try, and had a 'vanilla cream pie' to go with it (traditionally opened up and filled with sugar and chocolate but I opted for non-traditional). Bloody delicious!
Late afternoon I decided the time had come to climb the mast. This was made difficult by having to 'go around' the newly installed radar, not so easy when you're suspended mid step. I made sure my harness was firm before attempting it. I made it to the second spreader where I took photos and beat a hasty retreat, reaching the deck with sewing machine legs and arms.
Something else I'd been wanting to try was 'Rabbit Stifado' which we found at the first restaurant we came to. After a delicious dinner we took a short stroll that became a long meander up switchbacks and stairs until we reached the top of the town. The views were stunning and I took lots of photos of colourful and interesting houses. We returned a different route and passed the 'out of town' car park where visitors leave their cars and walk into town. Smart move given the narrow streets.
Click images to enlarge
Tuesday was paradise again, sunny and warm, though the morning started out so cold Colin had to put a t-shirt on! As we 'walked' the dinghy along the mooring ropes to shore we saw the owner of the coiled blue hose filling up boats with water at €3 per 50 litres. He offered his hand to help us out of the dinghy, which is the kind of friendliness we've been experiencing all over Greece. Delightful!
Kióni was gorgeous. Such a pretty little town with a lovely, friendly feel to it. The streets were incredibly narrow for car traffic, and watching the trucks manoeuvre through them without taking out a few chairs and souvenir stands was a marvel in itself, though a side mirror did graze the high table we sat at having coffee. We found a bakery that served Espresso Freddo, something I've been wanting to try, and had a 'vanilla cream pie' to go with it (traditionally opened up and filled with sugar and chocolate but I opted for non-traditional). Bloody delicious!
Late afternoon I decided the time had come to climb the mast. This was made difficult by having to 'go around' the newly installed radar, not so easy when you're suspended mid step. I made sure my harness was firm before attempting it. I made it to the second spreader where I took photos and beat a hasty retreat, reaching the deck with sewing machine legs and arms.
Something else I'd been wanting to try was 'Rabbit Stifado' which we found at the first restaurant we came to. After a delicious dinner we took a short stroll that became a long meander up switchbacks and stairs until we reached the top of the town. The views were stunning and I took lots of photos of colourful and interesting houses. We returned a different route and passed the 'out of town' car park where visitors leave their cars and walk into town. Smart move given the narrow streets.
Click images to enlarge
Porto Vathi 6.1nm, 1hrs 30min
Tuesday August 29 - Wednesday 30
Tuesday August 29 - Wednesday 30
Wednesday, Espresso Freddo and vanilla cream pie and off to Porto Vathi, where we could once again swim unencumbered by bathers. Vathi was also badly damaged in the 1953 earthquake, and the new houses and shops are attractive and colourful. We waited until the cool of evening to venture into town, checking out where to get supplies and finding a lovely place for dinner that had organic, home grown produce.
In the morning I climbed the mast before breakfast, determined to get stronger in my weak and fleshy arms, and we headed into town for provisions and our first port check-in and stamp in our Transit Log! Colin was very excited.
Click images to enlarge
In the morning I climbed the mast before breakfast, determined to get stronger in my weak and fleshy arms, and we headed into town for provisions and our first port check-in and stamp in our Transit Log! Colin was very excited.
Click images to enlarge
Órmos Pera Pigadhi 7.7nm, 1hrs 30min
Wednesday August 29 - Thursday 30
Wednesday August 29 - Thursday 30
Simply gorgeous! The night we spent was magically still and we woke up just hanging off the chain with the anchor behind us. Now that's calm! I also had bioluminescence still clinging to me as I climbed out of the water before bed. I reckon I could have stayed here a week! Alas we had to keep moving, but we'll be back.
Click images to enlarge
Click images to enlarge