Dalmatia
Otok Mljet
Okuklje 20.3NM, 3.5hrs
Thursday June 29
Leaving Dubrovnik we had a farewell visitor, but despite a show of extreme cuteness the captain was not impressed and the cat had to go.
Making our way back north we headed to Mljet and anchored in Okuklje for the night. Most of the moorings were full, which suited us as we didn't have to feel bad about not pulling up to our favourite restaurant for dinner.
We were the only boat anchored but not for long. A few more pulled in and dropped anchor, one too close for comfort. Not wanting to be caught out again having to move due to others stupidity Colin suggested (quite firmly) they don't anchor there, but they ignored him and laughed when he put the fenders out. Not so funny at 0030hrs when the breeze swung. Colin started the motor and pulled us up a couple of meters on the anchor chain, which stopped us hitting them but didn't stop them swinging into another boat. No longer laughing, and now arguing quite vociferously, they had to weigh anchor and relocate. Ohhhhhh the temptation to say something smart, but I kept my mouth shut. I know, nothing short of a miracle!
Click images to enlarge
Thursday June 29
Leaving Dubrovnik we had a farewell visitor, but despite a show of extreme cuteness the captain was not impressed and the cat had to go.
Making our way back north we headed to Mljet and anchored in Okuklje for the night. Most of the moorings were full, which suited us as we didn't have to feel bad about not pulling up to our favourite restaurant for dinner.
We were the only boat anchored but not for long. A few more pulled in and dropped anchor, one too close for comfort. Not wanting to be caught out again having to move due to others stupidity Colin suggested (quite firmly) they don't anchor there, but they ignored him and laughed when he put the fenders out. Not so funny at 0030hrs when the breeze swung. Colin started the motor and pulled us up a couple of meters on the anchor chain, which stopped us hitting them but didn't stop them swinging into another boat. No longer laughing, and now arguing quite vociferously, they had to weigh anchor and relocate. Ohhhhhh the temptation to say something smart, but I kept my mouth shut. I know, nothing short of a miracle!
Click images to enlarge
Otok Korčula
Korčula 27.8NM, 5.5hr
Friday June 30
We headed back to the wonderful town of Korčula to catch up with Julie and Alan who had been staying there the last few days after a couple of weeks in Greece. Al had found a great place for dinner with fabulous tuna steaks and a friendly fun waiter. We asked what all the costumes were we’d been seeing in the streets. Turns out tonight is the 'Half New Year' celebration, so after dinner we headed into the town to check out the festivities. There were bands, food, costumes, dancing (seems ‘Blue Monday’ is a universally loved dance hit) and the most amazing fairy floss I’ve even seen! The night was capped off with a fireworks display at midnight which we watched from the boat.
Photos by Colin and Nic. Click images to enlarge
Friday June 30
We headed back to the wonderful town of Korčula to catch up with Julie and Alan who had been staying there the last few days after a couple of weeks in Greece. Al had found a great place for dinner with fabulous tuna steaks and a friendly fun waiter. We asked what all the costumes were we’d been seeing in the streets. Turns out tonight is the 'Half New Year' celebration, so after dinner we headed into the town to check out the festivities. There were bands, food, costumes, dancing (seems ‘Blue Monday’ is a universally loved dance hit) and the most amazing fairy floss I’ve even seen! The night was capped off with a fireworks display at midnight which we watched from the boat.
Photos by Colin and Nic. Click images to enlarge
Lumbarajsko Račišće Bay 2.2NM, 0.5hrs
Saturday July 1 - Sunday July 2
Saturday morning Julie and Alan hopped on a ferry back to the mainland and we headed to Lumbarajsko Račišće Bay, a quieter part of Otok Korčula just 2nm south of the town. Peace and quiet at last! We arrived just after midday Saturday and swam and relaxed. Sunday morning we had a visit from the Austrian lady on the boat next to us. She swam over to apologise for the noise they'd been making testing their newly repaired dinghy motor, and was wearing only her birthday suit! Somewhat distracting I must say, for Colin at least. She was in no rush to go either. She had quite good floatation devices so she didn't seem to be getting at all tired treading water and having a chat.
Sunday evening our peace was shattered. The clouds rolled in, the thunder rolled, sheets of lightening illuminated the sky wherever we looked, and then the wind picked up to 30kns. The boats either side of us dragged anchor and had to relocate. We seemed to be sitting tight but then a voice boomed across the bay (not the voice of Jesus but still a saviour of sorts) saying something like "Sailing boats, move north or you will have a very sleepless night!". With the wind at its height we weighed anchor and moved north into the lee of a small island at the entrance to the bay. Luckily our anchor held but the wind seemed to die out after that. The boat next to us in the bay stayed put and was still on anchor the next morning, but better safe than sorry we thought. Fortunately we had started an alcohol-free week so we had our wits about us, though I really could have done with a whisky or four after that rather intense episode.
The next morning the wind and waves had settled and we made our way out of the bay as we were bombarded by tourist boats one after the another, anchoring across us and getting rather too close for comfort.
Click images to enlarge
Saturday July 1 - Sunday July 2
Saturday morning Julie and Alan hopped on a ferry back to the mainland and we headed to Lumbarajsko Račišće Bay, a quieter part of Otok Korčula just 2nm south of the town. Peace and quiet at last! We arrived just after midday Saturday and swam and relaxed. Sunday morning we had a visit from the Austrian lady on the boat next to us. She swam over to apologise for the noise they'd been making testing their newly repaired dinghy motor, and was wearing only her birthday suit! Somewhat distracting I must say, for Colin at least. She was in no rush to go either. She had quite good floatation devices so she didn't seem to be getting at all tired treading water and having a chat.
Sunday evening our peace was shattered. The clouds rolled in, the thunder rolled, sheets of lightening illuminated the sky wherever we looked, and then the wind picked up to 30kns. The boats either side of us dragged anchor and had to relocate. We seemed to be sitting tight but then a voice boomed across the bay (not the voice of Jesus but still a saviour of sorts) saying something like "Sailing boats, move north or you will have a very sleepless night!". With the wind at its height we weighed anchor and moved north into the lee of a small island at the entrance to the bay. Luckily our anchor held but the wind seemed to die out after that. The boat next to us in the bay stayed put and was still on anchor the next morning, but better safe than sorry we thought. Fortunately we had started an alcohol-free week so we had our wits about us, though I really could have done with a whisky or four after that rather intense episode.
The next morning the wind and waves had settled and we made our way out of the bay as we were bombarded by tourist boats one after the another, anchoring across us and getting rather too close for comfort.
Click images to enlarge
Uvala Gradina 29.2NM, 7 hrs
Monday July 3
Although the forecast was no wind for a week the reality was quite different and we had strong northerly winds all day. The captain was delighted since he got to sail for seven hours. I was not so delighted since I got tossed around downstairs for seven hours. Perhaps I should start sailing. When I grumble about the rough waters Colin reminds me that as we're on a sailing boat for seven months there's a strong likelihood we'll have to sail at some point. Valid point I suppose.
When we reached Gradina it was busy (almost every mooring was taken) but calm. I'd have happily stayed an extra day but there were shifting winds on the breeze, so to speak.
Click images to enlarge
Monday July 3
Although the forecast was no wind for a week the reality was quite different and we had strong northerly winds all day. The captain was delighted since he got to sail for seven hours. I was not so delighted since I got tossed around downstairs for seven hours. Perhaps I should start sailing. When I grumble about the rough waters Colin reminds me that as we're on a sailing boat for seven months there's a strong likelihood we'll have to sail at some point. Valid point I suppose.
When we reached Gradina it was busy (almost every mooring was taken) but calm. I'd have happily stayed an extra day but there were shifting winds on the breeze, so to speak.
Click images to enlarge
Otok Brač
Lučice 31.2NM, 5.5hrs
Tuesday July 4
Another rough day on the water, too rough even to work downstairs on my website! I took to bed and read instead (said Dr. Seuss?) while the heroic captain happily sailed forth.
Lučice was crowded. The difference from a month ago in these bays is notable, but then we knew to expect boats en masse in July/August. Our regular nice man put us on a mooring and the next morning we SUPped around the bay in glassy conditions.
Tuesday July 4
Another rough day on the water, too rough even to work downstairs on my website! I took to bed and read instead (said Dr. Seuss?) while the heroic captain happily sailed forth.
Lučice was crowded. The difference from a month ago in these bays is notable, but then we knew to expect boats en masse in July/August. Our regular nice man put us on a mooring and the next morning we SUPped around the bay in glassy conditions.
Split 14NM, 2.5hrs
Wednesday July 5
Finally we got our dinghy! Well THAT only took three and a half months. The problem however, not that I'm complaining, was that we were in credit from the exchange to a smaller dinghy. Oh the dilemmas of spending AUD$400 in a marine shop. It wasn't as easy as it sounds though, until I spied an EPIRB. The rope, scrubbing brush and cover for the outboard motor only came to a few dollars, but the EPIRB, well that took it up to $400 in a flash, and then some! Another $600 later and we had our new dinghy and an EPIRB. We needed it anyway as we currently only have personal EPIRBs on board.
We dined out in the town and in the morning did our shopping at the markets in the old city, and I didn't take a single photo. Unheard of! I took video though which will end up in the trip movie.
Finally we got our dinghy! Well THAT only took three and a half months. The problem however, not that I'm complaining, was that we were in credit from the exchange to a smaller dinghy. Oh the dilemmas of spending AUD$400 in a marine shop. It wasn't as easy as it sounds though, until I spied an EPIRB. The rope, scrubbing brush and cover for the outboard motor only came to a few dollars, but the EPIRB, well that took it up to $400 in a flash, and then some! Another $600 later and we had our new dinghy and an EPIRB. We needed it anyway as we currently only have personal EPIRBs on board.
We dined out in the town and in the morning did our shopping at the markets in the old city, and I didn't take a single photo. Unheard of! I took video though which will end up in the trip movie.
Otok Šolta
Kašjun 9.1NM, 2.5hrs
Thursday July 6 - Friday July 7
We arrived in this beautiful bay that on our previous visit we had to ourselves. Not so a month on. The western fork of the bay was full so we anchored in the eastern fork and were on our own, but as usual not for long. A couple of boats of Scots and Welsh people rafted up and anchored way too close. Rather than spend another night worrying about their position the captain, with a bit of encouragement, told them very nicely that we would hit them if the breeze swung, which is invariably does. There was much umming and ahhing but they eventually left and we had a peaceful night.
Friday morning there were a few boats but the place cleared out in the evening - charter boat changeover day, we love it! Colin was desperate to try out our new dinghy having waited so patiently, and sometimes not so patiently, to get it. I must admit, although I wasn't excited about our new toy it's a lot faster and sturdier (and bigger) than our yellow rubber duck, which belongs more in a bathtub than the ocean. We took it for a burn to Rogač, the next bay around, and zipped in and out amongst the boats lined up at the the fuelling jetty, filling their yachts before returning to the charter companies.
Click images to enlarge
Thursday July 6 - Friday July 7
We arrived in this beautiful bay that on our previous visit we had to ourselves. Not so a month on. The western fork of the bay was full so we anchored in the eastern fork and were on our own, but as usual not for long. A couple of boats of Scots and Welsh people rafted up and anchored way too close. Rather than spend another night worrying about their position the captain, with a bit of encouragement, told them very nicely that we would hit them if the breeze swung, which is invariably does. There was much umming and ahhing but they eventually left and we had a peaceful night.
Friday morning there were a few boats but the place cleared out in the evening - charter boat changeover day, we love it! Colin was desperate to try out our new dinghy having waited so patiently, and sometimes not so patiently, to get it. I must admit, although I wasn't excited about our new toy it's a lot faster and sturdier (and bigger) than our yellow rubber duck, which belongs more in a bathtub than the ocean. We took it for a burn to Rogač, the next bay around, and zipped in and out amongst the boats lined up at the the fuelling jetty, filling their yachts before returning to the charter companies.
Click images to enlarge
Otok Veli Drvenik
Mala Luka 15NM, 2hrs
Saturday July 8
Windy again so I decided if you can't beat 'em join 'em and took the helm. 'Bout time I put my sailing lessons to use! We tacked back and forth up the channel until we reached Veli Drvenik and tucked into one of the bays, Mala Luka. We anchored in the less popular (in fact decidedly UNpopular) eastern fork, facing into the wind but relying on it to swing in its usual manner. It didn't swing but died off completely. We had a moonlit nude swim before bed and went to sleep with a sliver of light from the full moon shining across the bed. By the way, the bay was unpopular BEFORE we went nude swimming.
It was such a magical treat to wake up to a quiet, glassed off bay and be able to have our morning swim nude again, though there are parts of me that wobble diving into the water that I'm pretty sure shouldn't. They're usually held in place by my bathers. I could go off this nude swimming.
Click images to enlarge
Saturday July 8
Windy again so I decided if you can't beat 'em join 'em and took the helm. 'Bout time I put my sailing lessons to use! We tacked back and forth up the channel until we reached Veli Drvenik and tucked into one of the bays, Mala Luka. We anchored in the less popular (in fact decidedly UNpopular) eastern fork, facing into the wind but relying on it to swing in its usual manner. It didn't swing but died off completely. We had a moonlit nude swim before bed and went to sleep with a sliver of light from the full moon shining across the bed. By the way, the bay was unpopular BEFORE we went nude swimming.
It was such a magical treat to wake up to a quiet, glassed off bay and be able to have our morning swim nude again, though there are parts of me that wobble diving into the water that I'm pretty sure shouldn't. They're usually held in place by my bathers. I could go off this nude swimming.
Click images to enlarge
Uvala Mirine (Oštrica Peninsula) 20.3NM, 3.5hrs
Sunday July 9 - Tuesday July 11
We motored north to Uvala Mirine where we stayed a night previously with Julie and Alan. At that time we were the only boat in the bay but today, especially being a Sunday, there were many boats and many people camped around the shoreline. It's now European holidays so we don't expect any peace and quiet 'til September. However, the bay is huge and shallow so we were able to anchor away from any other boats, plus it seems more a family holiday place so there were no party boats making noise 'til all hours. Every day I marvel at how lucky we are to be in such an incredibly beautiful place. I wake myself up each morning with a dive into the ocean, and cool off before bed doing the same, and I love not having to wear bathers to do it, or worry about sharks nibbling my lower limbs!
Monday blew up with a Jugo as forecast, gusting up to 30kns. We were securely anchored with 30m of chain out, but Colin let out another 10m just to be sure. He was watchful all day but there really wasn't a lot of boat movement, just a lot of wind noise.
Tuesday was glassy and warm and we dipped in and out of the water all day to stay cool. We went SUPping around to the next bay and found a caravan park at the water's edge, scattered with holiday makers in and out of the water. That night, sitting on the SUP at the back of the boat, we watched a spectacular lightening show streaking across the bay. There was a strong wind forecast which was hard to imagine as the bay was like a mill pond, but sure enough it came. Quite amazing. One minute glassy, next minute battening down the hatches! It passed quickly, settled, then blew up again, this time with rain. Colin stayed upstairs keeping watch until it passed. Nature sure puts on a magnificent show.
Colin and I have added Backgammon to our games repertoire. Thanks to Kristin and Davey for inspiring us, and thanks to Ali for the farewell present!
Click images to enlarge
We motored north to Uvala Mirine where we stayed a night previously with Julie and Alan. At that time we were the only boat in the bay but today, especially being a Sunday, there were many boats and many people camped around the shoreline. It's now European holidays so we don't expect any peace and quiet 'til September. However, the bay is huge and shallow so we were able to anchor away from any other boats, plus it seems more a family holiday place so there were no party boats making noise 'til all hours. Every day I marvel at how lucky we are to be in such an incredibly beautiful place. I wake myself up each morning with a dive into the ocean, and cool off before bed doing the same, and I love not having to wear bathers to do it, or worry about sharks nibbling my lower limbs!
Monday blew up with a Jugo as forecast, gusting up to 30kns. We were securely anchored with 30m of chain out, but Colin let out another 10m just to be sure. He was watchful all day but there really wasn't a lot of boat movement, just a lot of wind noise.
Tuesday was glassy and warm and we dipped in and out of the water all day to stay cool. We went SUPping around to the next bay and found a caravan park at the water's edge, scattered with holiday makers in and out of the water. That night, sitting on the SUP at the back of the boat, we watched a spectacular lightening show streaking across the bay. There was a strong wind forecast which was hard to imagine as the bay was like a mill pond, but sure enough it came. Quite amazing. One minute glassy, next minute battening down the hatches! It passed quickly, settled, then blew up again, this time with rain. Colin stayed upstairs keeping watch until it passed. Nature sure puts on a magnificent show.
Colin and I have added Backgammon to our games repertoire. Thanks to Kristin and Davey for inspiring us, and thanks to Ali for the farewell present!
Click images to enlarge
Otok Kaprije
Uvala Remetić 13.8NM, 2.5hrs
Wednesday July 12
A tiny little cove on a mooring ball. No nude swimming 'til dark, too close to our neighbours.
Wednesday July 12
A tiny little cove on a mooring ball. No nude swimming 'til dark, too close to our neighbours.
Biograd na Moru 17.1NM, 3hrs
Thursday 13 - Friday 14
A return to our 'home away from home' to get our washing done, fill a gas bottle, and re-provision the boat. I also got my legs waxed (oh the joy) and Colin bought numerous LED lights to fit out the rest of the cabin and the anchor light. The latter involved a quick trip up the mast which he did with great aplomb.
We caught up with Andrija and Linda and some of the other Burin staff for a drink after work on Friday evening. It was so lovely to see them all again, such gorgeous people. Andrija lavished us with gifts of Burin wine, t-shirts and a burgee. I asked if he required us to be clothed whilst flying the burgee since it's advertising for the company. I mean we want to attract business for them, right?
Saturday morning Geoff (our next guest and Colin's specialist advisor/collaborator/coconspirator in buying the Lass) caught a bus down from Zadar and joined us for the sail back up, though we had to motor the whole way due wind on the nose.
Click images to enlarge
A return to our 'home away from home' to get our washing done, fill a gas bottle, and re-provision the boat. I also got my legs waxed (oh the joy) and Colin bought numerous LED lights to fit out the rest of the cabin and the anchor light. The latter involved a quick trip up the mast which he did with great aplomb.
We caught up with Andrija and Linda and some of the other Burin staff for a drink after work on Friday evening. It was so lovely to see them all again, such gorgeous people. Andrija lavished us with gifts of Burin wine, t-shirts and a burgee. I asked if he required us to be clothed whilst flying the burgee since it's advertising for the company. I mean we want to attract business for them, right?
Saturday morning Geoff (our next guest and Colin's specialist advisor/collaborator/coconspirator in buying the Lass) caught a bus down from Zadar and joined us for the sail back up, though we had to motor the whole way due wind on the nose.
Click images to enlarge