Southern Dalmatia with Kristin and Davey
Otok Lopud
Šunj 7.4NM, 1hr
Wednesday June 21 Dobrodošli Kristen and Davey. Welcome aboard Loch Fyne Lass! Our new guests arrived Tuesday just before midnight, and with true Lass hospitality we fed and watered them and exchanged travel stories 'til the wee hours. No rest for the weary though. We were up early(ish) on Wednesday and on the bus into town. We parted company at the main port where Kris and Davey went to the old city and Colin and I went to my followup appointment at MarinMed. Good news, the wound looked good I could swim again with a waterproof covering. Later at the marina we finished provisioning and got underway to our first stop, the beautiful bay of Šinj on the island of Lopud, a short jaunt for our travel weary guests who had been traipsing around Europe for three weeks already. Click images to enlarge |
Otok Mljet
Okuklje 14.2NM, 3hrs
Thursday June 22
We couldn't go to Mljet without a visit to Okuklje, especially as I had told the staff at Maran restaurant we'd be back for their Hobotnica Peka (Octopus Under the Bell). It didn't disappoint. Even Davey who is not a big fan of tentacled seafood said it was one of the best meals he'd ever had! Our waiter Rajco was a delight. He praised my Croatian and I told him he was a prekrasan muškarac (handsome man). He denied it and said Colin was the pretty man, then quickly added "I still like women". He was a darling, and I invited him to have a grappa with us when he was serving us gratis liqueurs after the meal. He was intrigued as to why I had learned Croatian. I guess not many travellers bother as most locals speak English and usually one or two other languages. He asked us to sign the guest book and Colin serenaded him with The Skye Boat song on bagpipes when we returned to the boat. We stayed up talking 'til midnight. Those guests sure did keep us up late!
Thursday was a lazy morning with swimming, eating (I had a jewel beetle share my breakfast), coffees, and minimal exercise. I wanted to see the church on the hill as I got waylaid by photographing butterflies last visit. Davey joined me on the hike.
It turned out our lovely waiter was the owner, and as we left the mooring we were handed a bottle of wine with his compliments. I was happy all day thinking what a sweet gesture that was and what a delightful time we'd had. It makes an experience very special when you share it with the locals.
Click images to enlarge
Thursday June 22
We couldn't go to Mljet without a visit to Okuklje, especially as I had told the staff at Maran restaurant we'd be back for their Hobotnica Peka (Octopus Under the Bell). It didn't disappoint. Even Davey who is not a big fan of tentacled seafood said it was one of the best meals he'd ever had! Our waiter Rajco was a delight. He praised my Croatian and I told him he was a prekrasan muškarac (handsome man). He denied it and said Colin was the pretty man, then quickly added "I still like women". He was a darling, and I invited him to have a grappa with us when he was serving us gratis liqueurs after the meal. He was intrigued as to why I had learned Croatian. I guess not many travellers bother as most locals speak English and usually one or two other languages. He asked us to sign the guest book and Colin serenaded him with The Skye Boat song on bagpipes when we returned to the boat. We stayed up talking 'til midnight. Those guests sure did keep us up late!
Thursday was a lazy morning with swimming, eating (I had a jewel beetle share my breakfast), coffees, and minimal exercise. I wanted to see the church on the hill as I got waylaid by photographing butterflies last visit. Davey joined me on the hike.
It turned out our lovely waiter was the owner, and as we left the mooring we were handed a bottle of wine with his compliments. I was happy all day thinking what a sweet gesture that was and what a delightful time we'd had. It makes an experience very special when you share it with the locals.
Click images to enlarge
Polače 14.9NM, 2hrs
Friday June 23 - Sunday June 25
What can I say about Polače but that it was gorgeous enough to stay three days. A glassed off bay, Roman palace ruins at your doorstep, a Benedictine Monastery over the hill, and beautiful cool blue water. My Croatian seems to be quite winning with the locals. The National Park officials didn't charge us to anchor seeing as we'd been there before and because I'd taken the time to learn Croatian. Also the young man who collected our rubbish in his rowboat (AUD$2/bag) asked where I'd learnt Croatian and said I was smart and clever. I reciprocated with 'slatka muškarac' (sweet man, I think). I was more than a bit chuffed. They seem so impressed that a foreigner would learn their language when to me it's just the polite thing to do.
I went looking for more jewel beetles on the passiflora vine, and although there were no beetles (the vine was loaded with fruit, their work there was done) I saw some magnificent Tiger Swallowtail butterflies on a nearby lavender. To further add to the magic Kristen got a pretty special "Dog of the Day" photo when a young couple pulled in and took their huge German Shepherd to shore on a SUP. It looked very comfortable and quite content to be chauffeured around.
Some of our guests have had a mission during their time with us…Elaine’s SUP yoga, Julie and Alan’s 10kn coffee, Kristin’s Dog of the Day. After giving instructions on toilet use and not flushing more than 3 sheets of paper at a time, Davey embarked upon the mission of the One Sheet Wipe. He surpassed his objective with a 'no sheet' wipe, i.e. it came off clean! Davey was keen to put it in his scrap book and I encouraged him to do so.
Click images to enlarge
Friday June 23 - Sunday June 25
What can I say about Polače but that it was gorgeous enough to stay three days. A glassed off bay, Roman palace ruins at your doorstep, a Benedictine Monastery over the hill, and beautiful cool blue water. My Croatian seems to be quite winning with the locals. The National Park officials didn't charge us to anchor seeing as we'd been there before and because I'd taken the time to learn Croatian. Also the young man who collected our rubbish in his rowboat (AUD$2/bag) asked where I'd learnt Croatian and said I was smart and clever. I reciprocated with 'slatka muškarac' (sweet man, I think). I was more than a bit chuffed. They seem so impressed that a foreigner would learn their language when to me it's just the polite thing to do.
I went looking for more jewel beetles on the passiflora vine, and although there were no beetles (the vine was loaded with fruit, their work there was done) I saw some magnificent Tiger Swallowtail butterflies on a nearby lavender. To further add to the magic Kristen got a pretty special "Dog of the Day" photo when a young couple pulled in and took their huge German Shepherd to shore on a SUP. It looked very comfortable and quite content to be chauffeured around.
Some of our guests have had a mission during their time with us…Elaine’s SUP yoga, Julie and Alan’s 10kn coffee, Kristin’s Dog of the Day. After giving instructions on toilet use and not flushing more than 3 sheets of paper at a time, Davey embarked upon the mission of the One Sheet Wipe. He surpassed his objective with a 'no sheet' wipe, i.e. it came off clean! Davey was keen to put it in his scrap book and I encouraged him to do so.
Click images to enlarge
Otok Šipan
Otočić Mišnjak 21.5NM, 3.5hrs
Monday June 26
Our last night on the islands was spent at the northern tip of Šipan where there is an uninhabited islet just off the coast, Otočić Mišnjak. Once the few small day tripping boats left we had the place to ourselves, and it was pretty peaceful other than when a boat passed. Turned out we were in a thoroughfare for boats leaving Dubrovnik for the islands, which became quite evident the next day as the boat rocked back and forth with passing morning traffic.
Kristin cooked up a delicious evening feast and we swam and played Rummikub whilst exhausting our alcohol supplies. A perfect end to our days on the isles with two lovely guests.
Click images to enlarge
Monday June 26
Our last night on the islands was spent at the northern tip of Šipan where there is an uninhabited islet just off the coast, Otočić Mišnjak. Once the few small day tripping boats left we had the place to ourselves, and it was pretty peaceful other than when a boat passed. Turned out we were in a thoroughfare for boats leaving Dubrovnik for the islands, which became quite evident the next day as the boat rocked back and forth with passing morning traffic.
Kristin cooked up a delicious evening feast and we swam and played Rummikub whilst exhausting our alcohol supplies. A perfect end to our days on the isles with two lovely guests.
Click images to enlarge
Dubrovnik 11.9NM, 4hrs
Tuesday June 27 - Wednesday June 28
Back to Dubrovnik for my last followup appointment with the dermatologist and our last two nights with Kris and Davey. We were all a bit pooped from so much lazing around on the islands and decided to have dinner in, which consisted of Croatia's finest salami, cheese, beer, and chocolate - the good 'ol Mediterranean diet at its best.
Wednesday I had my stitches out (wound looking fabulous) and we lazed around the boat and pool until late afternoon when we braved the heat and crowds to do the old city again. Neither were too bad, and we cracked the magic time of day to walk the wall as the sun was setting, lighting up the rooftops in a spectacular display of colour and shadow. You can get an understanding of just how much devastation there was in the 1990s by looking at the rooftops - the bright new terracotta ones are those that had to be replaced due to damage.
We dined at Konoba Ribar, good Dalmatian food at very reasonable prices. Thank you Kris and Davey for the treat, and for sharing a wonderful week of relaxation on the islands and the enchantment of Dubrovnik at night.
It was a windy, woolly night with a Yugo bearing down...I felt nervous even though we were securely tied up in the marina. I don't think any of us got much sleep, but we were all up before the dawn to farewell Kirby and Fluffo, returning home after a month of travels. Safe home lovelies. We will miss your delightful company, artistic talents and gentle ways.
Photos by Nic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
Back to Dubrovnik for my last followup appointment with the dermatologist and our last two nights with Kris and Davey. We were all a bit pooped from so much lazing around on the islands and decided to have dinner in, which consisted of Croatia's finest salami, cheese, beer, and chocolate - the good 'ol Mediterranean diet at its best.
Wednesday I had my stitches out (wound looking fabulous) and we lazed around the boat and pool until late afternoon when we braved the heat and crowds to do the old city again. Neither were too bad, and we cracked the magic time of day to walk the wall as the sun was setting, lighting up the rooftops in a spectacular display of colour and shadow. You can get an understanding of just how much devastation there was in the 1990s by looking at the rooftops - the bright new terracotta ones are those that had to be replaced due to damage.
We dined at Konoba Ribar, good Dalmatian food at very reasonable prices. Thank you Kris and Davey for the treat, and for sharing a wonderful week of relaxation on the islands and the enchantment of Dubrovnik at night.
It was a windy, woolly night with a Yugo bearing down...I felt nervous even though we were securely tied up in the marina. I don't think any of us got much sleep, but we were all up before the dawn to farewell Kirby and Fluffo, returning home after a month of travels. Safe home lovelies. We will miss your delightful company, artistic talents and gentle ways.
Photos by Nic and Colin. Click images to enlarge