Northern Dalmatia
Biograd na Moru (Biograd by the Sea)
Wednesday March 8, 2017
Thursday (Četvrtak) March 9
We arrived at Marina Kornati after 24 hours of travel to be housed on a 35' Elan named "Yankee" (all the Elans have phonetic alphabet names) as our boat is being lifted out of the water tomorrow. Sheesh, talk about slumming it! Still, it won't be for long. The staff at the marina are super friendly. We settle in, shower in the heated marina bathrooms, then head out for an early dinner before crashing out for a long overdue sleep.
Click images to enlarge
We arrived at Marina Kornati after 24 hours of travel to be housed on a 35' Elan named "Yankee" (all the Elans have phonetic alphabet names) as our boat is being lifted out of the water tomorrow. Sheesh, talk about slumming it! Still, it won't be for long. The staff at the marina are super friendly. We settle in, shower in the heated marina bathrooms, then head out for an early dinner before crashing out for a long overdue sleep.
Click images to enlarge
Friday (Petak) March 10 and Saturday (Subota) March 11
A short walk to the Marina Kornati hard stands to check progress on the boat. Saturday the wind was howling!! We were actually getting blown backwards walking to the marina, but it was very quick walk home.
Enjoying the Mediterranean diet on the advice of my doctor.
Click images to enlarge
A short walk to the Marina Kornati hard stands to check progress on the boat. Saturday the wind was howling!! We were actually getting blown backwards walking to the marina, but it was very quick walk home.
Enjoying the Mediterranean diet on the advice of my doctor.
Click images to enlarge
Sunday (Nedjelja) March 12
A beautiful calm and warm(ish) day for exploring the town and beach. The fresh markets are open every day, local villagers bringing produce from their gardens and occasionally fishermen with their catches. The people are so friendly, and very patient with my efforts to speak Croatian, and you can’t say the stuff isn’t fresh! Veggies, fruit, eggs, jars of anchovies, homemade olive oil, cheese, nuts, dried figs.
The "swimming pool" is actually the ocean with a structure built around it. A bit too cold to get in just yet, but soon...
Click images to enlarge
A beautiful calm and warm(ish) day for exploring the town and beach. The fresh markets are open every day, local villagers bringing produce from their gardens and occasionally fishermen with their catches. The people are so friendly, and very patient with my efforts to speak Croatian, and you can’t say the stuff isn’t fresh! Veggies, fruit, eggs, jars of anchovies, homemade olive oil, cheese, nuts, dried figs.
The "swimming pool" is actually the ocean with a structure built around it. A bit too cold to get in just yet, but soon...
Click images to enlarge
Monday (Ponedjeljak) March 13
She's clean, anti-fouled and ready for her new name!
Click images to enlarge
She's clean, anti-fouled and ready for her new name!
Click images to enlarge
Tuesday (Utorak) March 14
Today we drove up to Zadar, 30kms north of Biograd. It's the second largest city in Croatia and has a beautiful old Walled City where you can eat lunch amongst Roman ruins. We visited the magical Sea Organ, which plays music by way of sea waves and tubes located beneath a set of marble steps (see movie below).
Last night we dined at our favourite local restaurant (having been there all of two times but receiving gratis Grappa the first night and Fig Liqueur last night) and I think my meal may have been closer to what my doctor meant when he said a Mediterranean diet is good for you.
Click images to enlarge
Today we drove up to Zadar, 30kms north of Biograd. It's the second largest city in Croatia and has a beautiful old Walled City where you can eat lunch amongst Roman ruins. We visited the magical Sea Organ, which plays music by way of sea waves and tubes located beneath a set of marble steps (see movie below).
Last night we dined at our favourite local restaurant (having been there all of two times but receiving gratis Grappa the first night and Fig Liqueur last night) and I think my meal may have been closer to what my doctor meant when he said a Mediterranean diet is good for you.
Click images to enlarge
Friday (Petak) March 17
We're in! We moved today into our new home. No more "walking the plank" to get on and off Yankee (not that the plank to our boat is any less steep). The place is currently in disarray while we find new storage spaces and hidey holes, but we're getting there...slowly. We're still waiting for our air freight from Australia, so when that arrives we'll be getting VERY creative with storage space! It's been in Zagreb since Monday, but just when you think you've completed all the paperwork there's yet another form to fill in, and someone else's signature you need. Seems it's the same the world over.
Click images to enlarge
We're in! We moved today into our new home. No more "walking the plank" to get on and off Yankee (not that the plank to our boat is any less steep). The place is currently in disarray while we find new storage spaces and hidey holes, but we're getting there...slowly. We're still waiting for our air freight from Australia, so when that arrives we'll be getting VERY creative with storage space! It's been in Zagreb since Monday, but just when you think you've completed all the paperwork there's yet another form to fill in, and someone else's signature you need. Seems it's the same the world over.
Click images to enlarge
Saturday (Subota) March 18
On Friday we moved today into our new home. No more "walking the plank" to get on and off Yankee (not that the plank to our boat is any less steep). The place was in complete disarray while we found new storage spaces and hidey holes. We were still waiting for our air freight from Australia to arrive, knowing that when it did we would be getting VERY creative with storage space! It had been in Zagreb since Monday, but just when you think you've completed all the paperwork there's yet another form to fill in, and someone else's signature you need. Seems it's the same the world over.
We drove to Zadar on Saturday to get supplies...storage trays, kitchen items, bed linen. We even found the Croatian equivalent of Bunnings called Bauhaus. Oh the joy!
Croatia has only just started recycling due to pressure from the EU, but they're ahead of us with roadworks. Imagine how much Main Roads could save by having a traffic light instead "Lollipop Men". Genius!
Colin and I went out for a celebratory dinner at the Marina Kornati restaurant. More of those succulent local squid with Dalmatian-style Chard. I don't think I'll ever get sick of that dish!
Click images to enlarge
On Friday we moved today into our new home. No more "walking the plank" to get on and off Yankee (not that the plank to our boat is any less steep). The place was in complete disarray while we found new storage spaces and hidey holes. We were still waiting for our air freight from Australia to arrive, knowing that when it did we would be getting VERY creative with storage space! It had been in Zagreb since Monday, but just when you think you've completed all the paperwork there's yet another form to fill in, and someone else's signature you need. Seems it's the same the world over.
We drove to Zadar on Saturday to get supplies...storage trays, kitchen items, bed linen. We even found the Croatian equivalent of Bunnings called Bauhaus. Oh the joy!
Croatia has only just started recycling due to pressure from the EU, but they're ahead of us with roadworks. Imagine how much Main Roads could save by having a traffic light instead "Lollipop Men". Genius!
Colin and I went out for a celebratory dinner at the Marina Kornati restaurant. More of those succulent local squid with Dalmatian-style Chard. I don't think I'll ever get sick of that dish!
Click images to enlarge
Sunday (Nedjelja) March 19
A day of setting up, cleaning, and mending, then a quick stroll to the markets to buy eggs and greens. It was the first time we'd seen and bought tomatoes at the market, and at $1.50 each it might be the last! The homegrown veggies from the market are super tasty, and Colin worked his magic with the fresh greens for dinner. The jar of anchovies I bought at the market were sold to me as sardines, but when I put them on my salad it became pretty clear they were not. Too hairy for sardines! Ah the perils of communicating in a foreign language.
Click images to enlarge
A day of setting up, cleaning, and mending, then a quick stroll to the markets to buy eggs and greens. It was the first time we'd seen and bought tomatoes at the market, and at $1.50 each it might be the last! The homegrown veggies from the market are super tasty, and Colin worked his magic with the fresh greens for dinner. The jar of anchovies I bought at the market were sold to me as sardines, but when I put them on my salad it became pretty clear they were not. Too hairy for sardines! Ah the perils of communicating in a foreign language.
Click images to enlarge
Tuesday (Utorak) March 21
Still we wait for our air freight to be delivered from Zagreb where it arrived last Monday. It's being held by DHL who can't quite understand that it's personal cargo, and so they want to slug Burin Yacht Charters 25% customs duty for receiving it on our behalf (around AUD$1000). The staff at Burin continue to do their best to try and sort it out for us.
Meanwhile we shopped, and later braved the cold ocean for our first swim of the year in Croatian waters. It was around 13 degrees so it didn't take long to go numb, after which it was quite enjoyable. We were told May 1st is a holiday when everyone goes swimming, then two days later they all have colds!
Click images to enlarge
Still we wait for our air freight to be delivered from Zagreb where it arrived last Monday. It's being held by DHL who can't quite understand that it's personal cargo, and so they want to slug Burin Yacht Charters 25% customs duty for receiving it on our behalf (around AUD$1000). The staff at Burin continue to do their best to try and sort it out for us.
Meanwhile we shopped, and later braved the cold ocean for our first swim of the year in Croatian waters. It was around 13 degrees so it didn't take long to go numb, after which it was quite enjoyable. We were told May 1st is a holiday when everyone goes swimming, then two days later they all have colds!
Click images to enlarge
Thursday (Četvrtak) March 23
Dinner last night at the famous pizza place frequented by Colin and Geoff during their boat-buying expedition to Biograd last November/December. It was worthy of the rave.
We're getting used to kuna and lipa, the currency of Croatia (100 lipa = 1 kuna). The modern kuna was introduced in 1994, and interestingly the coins are issued in two versions: one with the name of the plant or animal in Croatian (issued in odd years), the other with the name in Latin (issued in even years). Overall more coins have been minted in Croatian than in Latin.
Today we found out that St Nicholas is the Patron Saint of Sailing. Nicole, Nikolina, Nikola, Nicholas...whichever way, my name should bring good luck on the high seas.
Colin has ordered a Zodiac 350 ALU with a mercury 5 horsepower 4 stroke outboard motor but it won't be available 'til the end of April. Meanwhile Andrija dragged out the old dinghy with strict instructions for two people, maximum three! It had no plug so we headed off to get one at the Craft Beer shop (of course) which doubles as a hardware store. You couldn't say the dinghy's in great shape. While Colin was measuring the plug hole the side handle fell off, freeing the dinghy of its attachment to the boat. Luckily Colin was in it at the time. It will be interesting to see if it lasts the month! Still, we've always got the SUPs...
Click images to enlarge
Dinner last night at the famous pizza place frequented by Colin and Geoff during their boat-buying expedition to Biograd last November/December. It was worthy of the rave.
We're getting used to kuna and lipa, the currency of Croatia (100 lipa = 1 kuna). The modern kuna was introduced in 1994, and interestingly the coins are issued in two versions: one with the name of the plant or animal in Croatian (issued in odd years), the other with the name in Latin (issued in even years). Overall more coins have been minted in Croatian than in Latin.
Today we found out that St Nicholas is the Patron Saint of Sailing. Nicole, Nikolina, Nikola, Nicholas...whichever way, my name should bring good luck on the high seas.
Colin has ordered a Zodiac 350 ALU with a mercury 5 horsepower 4 stroke outboard motor but it won't be available 'til the end of April. Meanwhile Andrija dragged out the old dinghy with strict instructions for two people, maximum three! It had no plug so we headed off to get one at the Craft Beer shop (of course) which doubles as a hardware store. You couldn't say the dinghy's in great shape. While Colin was measuring the plug hole the side handle fell off, freeing the dinghy of its attachment to the boat. Luckily Colin was in it at the time. It will be interesting to see if it lasts the month! Still, we've always got the SUPs...
Click images to enlarge
Saturday (Subota) March 25
It was a day of shopping in Split, starting with a 12V TV that will double as a computer monitor, then on to the ACI Marina to put down a deposit on the dinghy and outboard, and finally downtown to pick up a “Wind SUP” for Colin (a Stand Up Paddle board with a windsurfing sail). The driving and parking is crazy in the big cities. There are no rules! We had to squeeze the sizeable Fiat into the tiniest spaces, and Colin even needed guidance to get out again. Now that’s saying something! (I won't tell you what).
We finished our day at a traditional restaurant called "Konoba Barba", which Colin had dined at during his initial trip. A popular tavern with locals and visitors alike.
Click images to enlarge
It was a day of shopping in Split, starting with a 12V TV that will double as a computer monitor, then on to the ACI Marina to put down a deposit on the dinghy and outboard, and finally downtown to pick up a “Wind SUP” for Colin (a Stand Up Paddle board with a windsurfing sail). The driving and parking is crazy in the big cities. There are no rules! We had to squeeze the sizeable Fiat into the tiniest spaces, and Colin even needed guidance to get out again. Now that’s saying something! (I won't tell you what).
We finished our day at a traditional restaurant called "Konoba Barba", which Colin had dined at during his initial trip. A popular tavern with locals and visitors alike.
Click images to enlarge
Monday (Ponedjeljak) March 27
Although we had officially moved to "Summertime" it was a wet and windy Sunday, with the Northeasterly Bora bearing down and the passerelle moving precariously as you crossed it to the jetty. (We didn't know the clocks were moving forward. We found out because there was a discrepancy between the wall clock and our computers which had automatically updated). For the first time we took the car instead of walking to do our shopping.
You wouldn't call my effort in Croatian at the deli a resounding success. I was trying to order sliced bacon and ended up with a slab of meat, to which Colin asked "What are you going to do with that?". Slanina/Svinjska...so close and yet so far! It may not have gone with eggs in the morning but it made a decent evening meal.
Monday brought glorious weather, the calm after the storm. It's been a hive of activity here for the past few weeks, getting the charter boats ready for the season. Romeo, November, Whisky, and Tango are now cleaned, colour coordinated and ready to roll!
Shopping is a treat here. If your partner is taking too long you can sit at the cafe and have coffee or alcohol. Oh the joy! Myself I'm trying to reduce my drinking so I'm just sticking to the one beer a day. I've been told in the South they drink Karlovačko while in the North they drink Ožujsko. When in Rome...
Click images to enlarge
Although we had officially moved to "Summertime" it was a wet and windy Sunday, with the Northeasterly Bora bearing down and the passerelle moving precariously as you crossed it to the jetty. (We didn't know the clocks were moving forward. We found out because there was a discrepancy between the wall clock and our computers which had automatically updated). For the first time we took the car instead of walking to do our shopping.
You wouldn't call my effort in Croatian at the deli a resounding success. I was trying to order sliced bacon and ended up with a slab of meat, to which Colin asked "What are you going to do with that?". Slanina/Svinjska...so close and yet so far! It may not have gone with eggs in the morning but it made a decent evening meal.
Monday brought glorious weather, the calm after the storm. It's been a hive of activity here for the past few weeks, getting the charter boats ready for the season. Romeo, November, Whisky, and Tango are now cleaned, colour coordinated and ready to roll!
Shopping is a treat here. If your partner is taking too long you can sit at the cafe and have coffee or alcohol. Oh the joy! Myself I'm trying to reduce my drinking so I'm just sticking to the one beer a day. I've been told in the South they drink Karlovačko while in the North they drink Ožujsko. When in Rome...
Click images to enlarge
Tuesday (Utorak) March 28
Our Australian Boat Registration papers finally arrived! Now to get on with the many ceremonies for renaming the boat. Appeasing Poseidon (God of the Sea) and the Gods of the Winds involves pouring copious amounts of champagne into the sea. Lushes, the lot of them! It's a pity they don't like beer. That 1.854L Karlovačko costs the equivalent of around AU$4.00! Mind you, so does the cheapest 'champagne' we've found.
However, we are still waiting for our air freight. DHL have had it in Zagreb for over 2 weeks, giving us the run around while they try and work out how to clear it through customs. I've been wearing the same pair of 'daily' contact lenses since last Friday...I'm not sure how much longer they can last! |
Wednesday (Srijeda) March 29
Today we made headway in some areas whilst treading water in others. The marine electricians, Marin and Niko, came to commission our AIS (Automatic Identification System) with the new MMSI number, and in the process realised one of the aerials wasn't working. It turned out one of the radio aerials wasn't connected, which Colin had suspected for some time because he's sooooooo clever! (He told me to say that). Crucial really. Anyway they got that sorted. Meanwhile we're still waiting for word about our goods at DHL being cleared through customs.
Click images to enlarge
Today we made headway in some areas whilst treading water in others. The marine electricians, Marin and Niko, came to commission our AIS (Automatic Identification System) with the new MMSI number, and in the process realised one of the aerials wasn't working. It turned out one of the radio aerials wasn't connected, which Colin had suspected for some time because he's sooooooo clever! (He told me to say that). Crucial really. Anyway they got that sorted. Meanwhile we're still waiting for word about our goods at DHL being cleared through customs.
Click images to enlarge
Thursday (Četvrtak) March 30
We returned to Konoba Barba with the express purpose of finding out where they buy their sourdough bread. However, they didn't have it this night and trying to explain what I was after was tricky, even though the waitress had excellent English. I ended up with a loaf of brown bread as a gift and the name of the mini-market they buy it from. Still, we had a delicious meal, but was it all that grilled lamb or the half carafe of red wine that made me feel ill at 0100hrs?
Note the large metal vat beside the "Coca Cola" fridge. This is red wine on tap. They have wine on tap behind the bar too. Well why not?
Click images to enlarge
We returned to Konoba Barba with the express purpose of finding out where they buy their sourdough bread. However, they didn't have it this night and trying to explain what I was after was tricky, even though the waitress had excellent English. I ended up with a loaf of brown bread as a gift and the name of the mini-market they buy it from. Still, we had a delicious meal, but was it all that grilled lamb or the half carafe of red wine that made me feel ill at 0100hrs?
Note the large metal vat beside the "Coca Cola" fridge. This is red wine on tap. They have wine on tap behind the bar too. Well why not?
Click images to enlarge
Friday (Petak) March 31
According to legend, every vessel is recorded by name in the ‘Ledger of the Deep’, and is known personally to Poseidon, God of the Sea. To change the name of a vessel without consulting Poseidon is to invoke his wrath, so a traditional ceremony is used to appease the Gods of the Seas.
Firstly we had to purge the old name from the Ledger of the Deep and from Poseidon's memory. This involved wiping out every trace of the old name, reciting a short ceremony, dropping a tag with the old name written in water soluble ink off the bow, and pouring champagne into the ocean from East to West.
We then followed immediately with the renaming ceremony, again calling Poseidon, reciting a short ceremony and pouring champagne into the ocean from West to East.
Finally, the Gods of the Winds had to be appeased with, yes, another short ceremony and flinging champagne North, West, East and South.
Done! We should now be assured of fair winds and smooth seas wherever we sail. Phew!
The Gods aren’t all bad though. We were allowed some of the champagne at each stage of the process.
The reason we changed the name is that the old name 'Vamaro' had no significance for us, being a combination of the first two letters of the previous owners' names. We chose 'Loch Fyne Lass' not just because it's catchy, but because Loch Fyne (located on the west coast of Argyll and Bute, Scotland) is the ancestral home of the Campbells, and it was the name Colin's Dad gave the boat he built in the nineties. That Loch Fyne means Loch of the Vine or Wine is completely coincidental.
Click images to enlarge
According to legend, every vessel is recorded by name in the ‘Ledger of the Deep’, and is known personally to Poseidon, God of the Sea. To change the name of a vessel without consulting Poseidon is to invoke his wrath, so a traditional ceremony is used to appease the Gods of the Seas.
Firstly we had to purge the old name from the Ledger of the Deep and from Poseidon's memory. This involved wiping out every trace of the old name, reciting a short ceremony, dropping a tag with the old name written in water soluble ink off the bow, and pouring champagne into the ocean from East to West.
We then followed immediately with the renaming ceremony, again calling Poseidon, reciting a short ceremony and pouring champagne into the ocean from West to East.
Finally, the Gods of the Winds had to be appeased with, yes, another short ceremony and flinging champagne North, West, East and South.
Done! We should now be assured of fair winds and smooth seas wherever we sail. Phew!
The Gods aren’t all bad though. We were allowed some of the champagne at each stage of the process.
The reason we changed the name is that the old name 'Vamaro' had no significance for us, being a combination of the first two letters of the previous owners' names. We chose 'Loch Fyne Lass' not just because it's catchy, but because Loch Fyne (located on the west coast of Argyll and Bute, Scotland) is the ancestral home of the Campbells, and it was the name Colin's Dad gave the boat he built in the nineties. That Loch Fyne means Loch of the Vine or Wine is completely coincidental.
Click images to enlarge