Kvarner and Northern Dalmatia
Kvarner
Otok Lošinj
Uvala Baldarka 10.5NM, 2hrs 20min
Thursday August 31 - Saturday September 2
Only two weeks ago we stayed in Mali Lošinj on the west coast of the island, but this time we anchored on the east coast in Baldarka cove. Though we had walked here from Mali Lošinj we found it far more beautiful from the water, and it was a lot less crowded than two weeks ago.
I had wanted to return to Lošinj purely so I could buy another cool dress in a shop I had found in Mali Lošinj, so that was our (my) first priority. As we walked left the cove we were delighted to see goats traipsing through the scrub. We were also amazed to see only a fraction of the boats and people in the Mali Lošinj, making it a much more attractive proposition than the wall to wall heaving boats we had experienced.
Friday, some time in the early hours, it started to rain and just didn't stop! We were trapped on the boat and forced to enjoy ourselves lazing about reading and updating websites and drinking cups of tea. Poor us. The sun eventually made an appearance around 1400hrs and we walked the seaside promenade to the town of Veli Lošinj further south, then on to Rovenska. We stopped for a beer on our way back through Veli Lošinj, the waiter rolling his eyes at me trying to order in Croatian. I told Colin I was pretty sure I was getting a dark beer but couldn't be sure what he was getting. Luckily he got the right thing, a large draught beer. Back on the boat we swam and Colin wove his usually magic with fish on the BBQ.
Saturday the front was still coming through. We had planned to leave for the other side of the island but as we were getting ready to leave we heard distant rumbles which soon turned into booming thunder and cracking lightening, so we decided to stay put. The day cleared up briefly but then the clouds rolled over again and the rain made a return. We made the most of it for a while, enjoying the weather display but staying vigilant in case we had to move quickly, but later it became quite hairy and scary. Colin turned the motor on a few times, preparing to leave if necessary, and called it once. I suggested we wait another short while, thinking it would be worse to be out at sea just loitering, though knowing it's safer to be doing than than dragging anchor and ending up in trouble in the bay. Things settled though, and at about midnight the wind had calmed sufficiently for Colin to go off watch and get some sleep. He always keeps one ear open though, just in case. It was an uncomfortable night with waves rolling the boat around, but we were safe.
Click images to enlarge
Thursday August 31 - Saturday September 2
Only two weeks ago we stayed in Mali Lošinj on the west coast of the island, but this time we anchored on the east coast in Baldarka cove. Though we had walked here from Mali Lošinj we found it far more beautiful from the water, and it was a lot less crowded than two weeks ago.
I had wanted to return to Lošinj purely so I could buy another cool dress in a shop I had found in Mali Lošinj, so that was our (my) first priority. As we walked left the cove we were delighted to see goats traipsing through the scrub. We were also amazed to see only a fraction of the boats and people in the Mali Lošinj, making it a much more attractive proposition than the wall to wall heaving boats we had experienced.
Friday, some time in the early hours, it started to rain and just didn't stop! We were trapped on the boat and forced to enjoy ourselves lazing about reading and updating websites and drinking cups of tea. Poor us. The sun eventually made an appearance around 1400hrs and we walked the seaside promenade to the town of Veli Lošinj further south, then on to Rovenska. We stopped for a beer on our way back through Veli Lošinj, the waiter rolling his eyes at me trying to order in Croatian. I told Colin I was pretty sure I was getting a dark beer but couldn't be sure what he was getting. Luckily he got the right thing, a large draught beer. Back on the boat we swam and Colin wove his usually magic with fish on the BBQ.
Saturday the front was still coming through. We had planned to leave for the other side of the island but as we were getting ready to leave we heard distant rumbles which soon turned into booming thunder and cracking lightening, so we decided to stay put. The day cleared up briefly but then the clouds rolled over again and the rain made a return. We made the most of it for a while, enjoying the weather display but staying vigilant in case we had to move quickly, but later it became quite hairy and scary. Colin turned the motor on a few times, preparing to leave if necessary, and called it once. I suggested we wait another short while, thinking it would be worse to be out at sea just loitering, though knowing it's safer to be doing than than dragging anchor and ending up in trouble in the bay. Things settled though, and at about midnight the wind had calmed sufficiently for Colin to go off watch and get some sleep. He always keeps one ear open though, just in case. It was an uncomfortable night with waves rolling the boat around, but we were safe.
Click images to enlarge
Uvala Vinturinje 20.2NM, 3hrs 50 min
Sunday September 3
Sunday morning was a bit more settled but we made an early start to get around to the west side of Lošinj. It soon became apparent we had made the right decision staying where we were last night as the wind and seas were all over the place and much stronger outside the bay and on the west side of the island. We had a strong wind to sail with, 30kns at times, and made good time getting to a sheltered cove on the northwest of Lošinj which we had to ourselves. Lucky because there really was only room for one boat. We enjoyed some peace and quiet and had a special treat of a herd of goats on the rocks as the sun was setting. Delightful!
Click images to enlarge
Sunday September 3
Sunday morning was a bit more settled but we made an early start to get around to the west side of Lošinj. It soon became apparent we had made the right decision staying where we were last night as the wind and seas were all over the place and much stronger outside the bay and on the west side of the island. We had a strong wind to sail with, 30kns at times, and made good time getting to a sheltered cove on the northwest of Lošinj which we had to ourselves. Lucky because there really was only room for one boat. We enjoyed some peace and quiet and had a special treat of a herd of goats on the rocks as the sun was setting. Delightful!
Click images to enlarge
Otok Unije
Uvala Podkujni 24.1NM, 4hrs
Wednesday September 13 - Thursday September 14
Finally we left Cres, though in hindsight it might have been better to hang there for a couple more nights. We made it to Unije and although the wind was blowing straight into the cove it wasn't too strong and the first night on anchor was okay. However, the weather and the forecast were at odds and instead of swinging to the north as was predicted the wind continued to blow straight in, picking up strength as it did so. We moved onto a mooring ball the second night to ensure our safety but it was a rather uncomfortable night. The next morning was no better so we headed off early seeking more protected waters, and although it was supposed to be relatively calm we quickly discovered that September weather is unpredictable at best, and in fact was all over the place! It went from a 30kn nor'easter to a 30kn sou'wester, then we sailed in and out of a torrential downpour as we passed Silba, then on reaching the north side of Molat and anchoring in a comfortable SE wind it promptly turned NW! We had a hairy moment early on when I was trying to help Colin furl the jib in as it was gusting up to 40kns and struggled to keep control of the sheet. It was the first time I'd been upset from a sailing event whilst on the trip, more from the shock than anything else. It would seem ungrateful to complain but we're about sick of September weather.
The one consolation of being in Uvala Podkujni was seeing goats and some huge wooly sheep on the shoreline in the morning, coming down for their morning dose of salt licking. Colin is never as enamoured by the sheep as I am, having worked on a sheep farm, but I'm always thrilled to see them.
Click images to enlarge
Wednesday September 13 - Thursday September 14
Finally we left Cres, though in hindsight it might have been better to hang there for a couple more nights. We made it to Unije and although the wind was blowing straight into the cove it wasn't too strong and the first night on anchor was okay. However, the weather and the forecast were at odds and instead of swinging to the north as was predicted the wind continued to blow straight in, picking up strength as it did so. We moved onto a mooring ball the second night to ensure our safety but it was a rather uncomfortable night. The next morning was no better so we headed off early seeking more protected waters, and although it was supposed to be relatively calm we quickly discovered that September weather is unpredictable at best, and in fact was all over the place! It went from a 30kn nor'easter to a 30kn sou'wester, then we sailed in and out of a torrential downpour as we passed Silba, then on reaching the north side of Molat and anchoring in a comfortable SE wind it promptly turned NW! We had a hairy moment early on when I was trying to help Colin furl the jib in as it was gusting up to 40kns and struggled to keep control of the sheet. It was the first time I'd been upset from a sailing event whilst on the trip, more from the shock than anything else. It would seem ungrateful to complain but we're about sick of September weather.
The one consolation of being in Uvala Podkujni was seeing goats and some huge wooly sheep on the shoreline in the morning, coming down for their morning dose of salt licking. Colin is never as enamoured by the sheep as I am, having worked on a sheep farm, but I'm always thrilled to see them.
Click images to enlarge
Northern Dalmatia
Otok Molat
Luka Jazi 49.5NM, 6hrs
Friday September 15 - Saturday September 16
For the first time in days we had a spot of warm and pleasant weather so Colin spent the rest of the day nude, as you do. In stark contrast to last month, when you could barely swing an anchor in here, there were only three other boats in the bay. The wind eventually swung back to SE and we had a relaxing, peaceful night.
Saturday morning we left for Biograd but were less than a mile out of the cove when we turned back. The wind was blowing at least 30kns, despite the forecast saying it was flat calm. It was a good call as it continued to blow relentlessly. Lightening flashed through the clouds all day and throughout the night. I could see it light up through closed eyelids. Around 0300hrs the wind swung to the north and the boat started rocking. We thought that was the end of our restful night but luckily the wind died, the boat calmed, and we woke to a flat bay.
Click images to enlarge
Friday September 15 - Saturday September 16
For the first time in days we had a spot of warm and pleasant weather so Colin spent the rest of the day nude, as you do. In stark contrast to last month, when you could barely swing an anchor in here, there were only three other boats in the bay. The wind eventually swung back to SE and we had a relaxing, peaceful night.
Saturday morning we left for Biograd but were less than a mile out of the cove when we turned back. The wind was blowing at least 30kns, despite the forecast saying it was flat calm. It was a good call as it continued to blow relentlessly. Lightening flashed through the clouds all day and throughout the night. I could see it light up through closed eyelids. Around 0300hrs the wind swung to the north and the boat started rocking. We thought that was the end of our restful night but luckily the wind died, the boat calmed, and we woke to a flat bay.
Click images to enlarge
Biograd na Moru 34NM, 5hrs 15min
Sunday 17:
Colin graciously stayed at the helm the whole five and a quarter hours despite torrential rain most of the way. The sun finally made an appearance as we approached Biograd and we saw a stream of yachts exiting the marinas heading south. They must have all waited out the storm after boarding their boats on Friday afternoon, and set sail as soon as the weather turned. It was quite a sight!
Then began the process of packing up the boat...
Monday 18: Packed away SUPs, dinghy, dinghy motor, guitar and bagpipes.
Tuesday 19: Organised and signed a contract to keep the boat at Marina Kornati for six months including completion of customs forms. Booked accomodation for upcoming land travel. Booked return flights home.
Wednesday 20: Rain.
Thursday 21: Rain.
Friday 22: Took down the sails and stowed them. Met with Anrdija and Linda to organise them looking after the boat during our absense, drinks with Burin, Colin played the bagpipes
Saturday 23: Bus to Zadar, bus to airport, picked up car, drove into Zadar to buy a fan, returned to Biograd and started cleaning, drinks with Burin
Click images to enlarge
Colin graciously stayed at the helm the whole five and a quarter hours despite torrential rain most of the way. The sun finally made an appearance as we approached Biograd and we saw a stream of yachts exiting the marinas heading south. They must have all waited out the storm after boarding their boats on Friday afternoon, and set sail as soon as the weather turned. It was quite a sight!
Then began the process of packing up the boat...
Monday 18: Packed away SUPs, dinghy, dinghy motor, guitar and bagpipes.
Tuesday 19: Organised and signed a contract to keep the boat at Marina Kornati for six months including completion of customs forms. Booked accomodation for upcoming land travel. Booked return flights home.
Wednesday 20: Rain.
Thursday 21: Rain.
Friday 22: Took down the sails and stowed them. Met with Anrdija and Linda to organise them looking after the boat during our absense, drinks with Burin, Colin played the bagpipes
Saturday 23: Bus to Zadar, bus to airport, picked up car, drove into Zadar to buy a fan, returned to Biograd and started cleaning, drinks with Burin
Click images to enlarge