Northern Dalmatia
Dugi Otok (Long Island)
Božava (via Zadar and International Waters) 62.2NM, 11hrs
Monday April 3
We set off for Zadar at 0600hrs for our first meeting with customs, motoring the whole way as there was not a lick of wind. The 'pens' in the marina are literally the width of the boat plus fenders. Sure, getting out was a breeze, but reversing back in will be most interesting.
It took us two hours to get to Zadar, where Andrija and Nikola (Burin Yacht Charter [BYC] staff) were waiting to help us tie up to the harbour wall. Anamarija (also BYC staff) arrived just after 0900 and took Colin to the Customs Office. He was out in no time with a cruising permit for a year, having paid the necessary fees and visitors' tax. Then followed an exchange of papers and stamps resulting in an authority to export the boat (and us) and re-enter as an Australian registered boat. “Easy” we thought! However, then we waited, and waited, and waited. Around 1230 (after an extended farewell lunch for a colleague) two customs officials came to get the hull number off the boat. This took them less than five minutes, and they didn't even step onto the boat but got Andrija to read the number to them! Anamarija took it all in stride as it's always like this, and Colin and I knew we could be waiting a couple of hours, but poor Andrija and Niko had no idea. They thought we'd be on our way by 0930!
Monday April 3
We set off for Zadar at 0600hrs for our first meeting with customs, motoring the whole way as there was not a lick of wind. The 'pens' in the marina are literally the width of the boat plus fenders. Sure, getting out was a breeze, but reversing back in will be most interesting.
It took us two hours to get to Zadar, where Andrija and Nikola (Burin Yacht Charter [BYC] staff) were waiting to help us tie up to the harbour wall. Anamarija (also BYC staff) arrived just after 0900 and took Colin to the Customs Office. He was out in no time with a cruising permit for a year, having paid the necessary fees and visitors' tax. Then followed an exchange of papers and stamps resulting in an authority to export the boat (and us) and re-enter as an Australian registered boat. “Easy” we thought! However, then we waited, and waited, and waited. Around 1230 (after an extended farewell lunch for a colleague) two customs officials came to get the hull number off the boat. This took them less than five minutes, and they didn't even step onto the boat but got Andrija to read the number to them! Anamarija took it all in stride as it's always like this, and Colin and I knew we could be waiting a couple of hours, but poor Andrija and Niko had no idea. They thought we'd be on our way by 0930!
We finally got away at 1300hrs and made our way out past the furthest island, Dugi Otok (Long Island), and 12nm into 'International Waters' where we promptly turned around. As the policija had instructed us to check in at the nearest international traffic port this meant staying overnight at Božava, Dugi Otok, where we pulled in at around 2200hrs. Andrija took us by foot to show us the necessary offices, and we returned to the boat, ate, drank Pelinkovac, and retired to bed. Pelinkovac is a bitter liquor based on wormwood, the herb used in absinthe. Bloody delicious and good for a stomach ache, and I do seem to have a lot of stomach aches since I've discovered it.
Andrija and Nikola were great company on the trip and so helpful! Nothing is ever too much trouble for the staff at Burin Yacht Charters, and they definitely go above and beyond the call of duty in our opinion, but they always graciously say “Nema problema”. Click images to enlarge |
Biograd na Moru (via Zadar) 30.2NM, 4.5hrs
Tuesday April 4
In the morning Andrija and Niko took the 0600 Catamaran to Zadar, and at 0700 we went to the Port Authority to provide the crew and passenger list. This took less than 10 minutes, then we waited for the policija/carina (police/customs) office to open at 0800. We arrived early, they arrived late (around 0830), then after 20 minutes of phone calls and confusion told us we'd have to go to Zadar to do the border control procedure because their computers weren't working! Well what can you say? That the Zadar policija told us to come here? That this is the nearest international traffic port to the international waters from which we've come? No. You say “Okay”, then you swear a lot afterwards. Stranger than truth! I must admit I lost my sense of humour for a short while.
We arrived back in Zadar around 1130 and it took only 10 minutes for the policija to stamp all the necessary documents and send us on our way.
We had a nice surprise when we returned to Biograd. Our airfreight had finally arrived! It is fair to say that DHL were completely useless in managing our freight, having had it for 3 weeks and STILL wondering what to do with it. We ended up calling Zagrebšped who were efficient and responsive, oh, like a transport company SHOULD be! It took them less than a week to get the necessary paperwork, collect our freight from DHL, have it cleared at Zagreb Airport, and get it to us here in Biograd.
The Croatian goods and services tax is one of the highest in Eastern Europe at 25%, second only to Hungary which is 27%. This is what we risked paying (around AUD$1000) if our freight was deemed for business rather than private purposes. Fortunately Zagrebšped understood the consignment instructions.
Click images to enlarge
In the morning Andrija and Niko took the 0600 Catamaran to Zadar, and at 0700 we went to the Port Authority to provide the crew and passenger list. This took less than 10 minutes, then we waited for the policija/carina (police/customs) office to open at 0800. We arrived early, they arrived late (around 0830), then after 20 minutes of phone calls and confusion told us we'd have to go to Zadar to do the border control procedure because their computers weren't working! Well what can you say? That the Zadar policija told us to come here? That this is the nearest international traffic port to the international waters from which we've come? No. You say “Okay”, then you swear a lot afterwards. Stranger than truth! I must admit I lost my sense of humour for a short while.
We arrived back in Zadar around 1130 and it took only 10 minutes for the policija to stamp all the necessary documents and send us on our way.
We had a nice surprise when we returned to Biograd. Our airfreight had finally arrived! It is fair to say that DHL were completely useless in managing our freight, having had it for 3 weeks and STILL wondering what to do with it. We ended up calling Zagrebšped who were efficient and responsive, oh, like a transport company SHOULD be! It took them less than a week to get the necessary paperwork, collect our freight from DHL, have it cleared at Zagreb Airport, and get it to us here in Biograd.
The Croatian goods and services tax is one of the highest in Eastern Europe at 25%, second only to Hungary which is 27%. This is what we risked paying (around AUD$1000) if our freight was deemed for business rather than private purposes. Fortunately Zagrebšped understood the consignment instructions.
Click images to enlarge
Wednesday April 5 - Friday April 7
We spent our last few days in Biograd completing the jobs to ready Loch Fyne Lass for cruising - getting full gas bottles, a new passerelle, shopping, and dropping the car back at the Zadar airport.
We were sad to leave our new friends from Burin Yacht charters, especially Andrija and Linda who have been so incredibly helpful and so much fun. Andrija is always laughing at how much Linda and I talk. He asked if I was here to sail or talk and I said "Talk. I hate sailing!". I told him it's worse for Colin. Not only do I talk all day but all night in my sleep as well!
Marina Kornati has been generous in letting us stay the extra days past April 1st (our original departure date) to get everything sorted.
Click images to enlarge
We spent our last few days in Biograd completing the jobs to ready Loch Fyne Lass for cruising - getting full gas bottles, a new passerelle, shopping, and dropping the car back at the Zadar airport.
We were sad to leave our new friends from Burin Yacht charters, especially Andrija and Linda who have been so incredibly helpful and so much fun. Andrija is always laughing at how much Linda and I talk. He asked if I was here to sail or talk and I said "Talk. I hate sailing!". I told him it's worse for Colin. Not only do I talk all day but all night in my sleep as well!
Marina Kornati has been generous in letting us stay the extra days past April 1st (our original departure date) to get everything sorted.
Click images to enlarge
Otok Pašman
Zaliv Zaplotica 2.5NM, 1hr
Friday April 7 - Monday April 10
Our first anchorage in Croatia! After a month of getting her prepared "The Lassie" set sail for distant isles...a whole two nautical miles (2NM) across the channel from Biograd! It was the first time we'd had enough wind to sail in, the first hoisting of the sails, and first use of the anchor. We tucked into a tiny cove on Pašman called Zaliv Zaplotica. We had interlopers for a short while, but they cleared off after lunch and we had the place to ourselves. You can tell the season has begun...there were yachts all over the place on our sail over!
Friday April 7 - Monday April 10
Our first anchorage in Croatia! After a month of getting her prepared "The Lassie" set sail for distant isles...a whole two nautical miles (2NM) across the channel from Biograd! It was the first time we'd had enough wind to sail in, the first hoisting of the sails, and first use of the anchor. We tucked into a tiny cove on Pašman called Zaliv Zaplotica. We had interlopers for a short while, but they cleared off after lunch and we had the place to ourselves. You can tell the season has begun...there were yachts all over the place on our sail over!
Pašman is an island off the coast of Croatia with an area of 60.11 km2, located to the south of Zadar and surrounded by the islands Ugljan, Iž, Dugi otok and Kornati. In 2011 the population of the municipality of Pašman was 2,845 people.
There are 11 villages on Pašman, and it has the biggest green surface of all islands in the Croatian archipelago considering its total area. It is the 12th largest of the islands and is also known to have the cleanest water in the Adriatic due to the constantly changing current. Click images to enlarge |
Saturday April 8
Colin's new toy - the Wind-SUP. He didn't fall in once, luckily since we estimate the water to be around 13 degrees. He was wearing his winter wetsuit though, just in case...
Click images to enlarge
Colin's new toy - the Wind-SUP. He didn't fall in once, luckily since we estimate the water to be around 13 degrees. He was wearing his winter wetsuit though, just in case...
Click images to enlarge
Sunday April 9 2.8NM and approx. 1hr each way
A day trip across the water to Pakoštane on the mainland (a whopping 2.5NM away) to get supplies. We motored to charge up the batteries, and arrived just in time to get what we needed before the tiny 'supermarket' closed at 1.00pm. This first few days of cruising has been a test period for a number of things - seeing how the boat handles, anchoring, using the holding tank on the toilet. Well they say two outta three ain't bad. The holding tank held on a bit too well. You will see a wire coat hanger in the essential supplies bought today (which the shopkeeper was kind enough to give to us as it was displaying a jacket and not for sale). Need I say more?? Colin just LOVES unblocking toilets in exotic locations.
Click images to enlarge
A day trip across the water to Pakoštane on the mainland (a whopping 2.5NM away) to get supplies. We motored to charge up the batteries, and arrived just in time to get what we needed before the tiny 'supermarket' closed at 1.00pm. This first few days of cruising has been a test period for a number of things - seeing how the boat handles, anchoring, using the holding tank on the toilet. Well they say two outta three ain't bad. The holding tank held on a bit too well. You will see a wire coat hanger in the essential supplies bought today (which the shopkeeper was kind enough to give to us as it was displaying a jacket and not for sale). Need I say more?? Colin just LOVES unblocking toilets in exotic locations.
Click images to enlarge
Biograd na Moru 3.5NM, 1hr
Monday April 10
We returned to Biograd, exploring Tkon (on Pašman) on the way. In Biograd we anchored outside the marina and rowed our rubber ducky to shore (very fitting in more ways than one) to fill gas bottles and get supplies. We visited Burin Yacht Charters to say hi to staff who we already miss.
Click images to enlarge
We returned to Biograd, exploring Tkon (on Pašman) on the way. In Biograd we anchored outside the marina and rowed our rubber ducky to shore (very fitting in more ways than one) to fill gas bottles and get supplies. We visited Burin Yacht Charters to say hi to staff who we already miss.
Click images to enlarge
Dugi Otok
Luka Sali 17.3NM, 4.5hrs
Tuesday April 11 After gathering supplies we departed our beloved Biograd and headed for the islands once again. We explored some potential anchorages on the West side on Pašman on the way to Dugi Otok, and arrived in Luka Sali (Sali Port) around 1500hrs having sought a marina for the night knowing a Bora was on the way. We had some trouble 'mooring up' to the wall but there was a local there within seconds to help us. It's a very efficient and interesting system that allows you to cram in a great many more boats than conventional jetties. It's difficult to explain, but you tie the stern to bollards on the pier, and at the bow you tie ropes, pulled from the ocean floor, that are attached at one end to the pier and the other end to a mooring block on the ocean floor. |
We dined at a Konoba, which today refers to a "registered restaurant where dishes of the coastal region are prepared and wine and brandies are poured out". Traditionally Konoba meant the room in the house where food was prepared and stored (seafood or cultivated food of the region). The lowest room in the house was used, and the interior furnished with useful tools used to process, store and prepare food. It was also a place to keep fishing equipment or simple tools for cultivation. Konoba Marin was a small room meeting the description but with the kitchen upstairs, so the waitress was up and down the outside stairs all night to fetch our meals. I'm guessing she'd have buns of steel!
Click images to enlarge
Click images to enlarge
Otok Zverinac 18NM, 3hrs
Wednesday April 12 - Thursday April 13
Zverinac is a small island that occupies 4.2km² and is populated by 30 people, though this swells to around 300 in summer when tourists come to enjoy the quiet little town. In Croatian history Zverinac is mentioned as far back as the 1400s as a possession of a nobleman from Zadar who, according to our local source, set up a hunting lodge. The current inhabitants are all descendants of his workers whom he gifted the land to. The foundation of the island is rock which had to be removed from any arable land, leaving the land criss-crossed with stone walls and buildings. If you want a stone wall built, ask someone here!
Zverinac olive oil is known as the best in Croatia. The secret, I'm told, is soaking the olives in sea water, and even though the Italians say this is wrong they come perennially in summer and buy up every last drop! I can attest, from my small tastings so far, that it is by far the best!! Apparently the cheese is even better but there's a two year waiting list for it. Nikola showed us the stone wheel oil mill and press and explained that the process is still as it was hundreds of years ago. The locals are on a roster for using the mill and press, with each producer's batch pressed separately.
We were also invited into Nikola's Konoba, a place where he and his friends come to relax and where his three day 'Bachelor Party' took place. It is complete with a poster of AC/DC, who are apparently legendary in Zverinac. It had the most wonderful smell of smoked meat, probably from the well used fireplace, and is home to his vat of home-made olive oil. Thank you Nikola for a bottle of Zverinca's best!
Photos by Colin and Nic. Click images to enlarge
Wednesday April 12 - Thursday April 13
Zverinac is a small island that occupies 4.2km² and is populated by 30 people, though this swells to around 300 in summer when tourists come to enjoy the quiet little town. In Croatian history Zverinac is mentioned as far back as the 1400s as a possession of a nobleman from Zadar who, according to our local source, set up a hunting lodge. The current inhabitants are all descendants of his workers whom he gifted the land to. The foundation of the island is rock which had to be removed from any arable land, leaving the land criss-crossed with stone walls and buildings. If you want a stone wall built, ask someone here!
Zverinac olive oil is known as the best in Croatia. The secret, I'm told, is soaking the olives in sea water, and even though the Italians say this is wrong they come perennially in summer and buy up every last drop! I can attest, from my small tastings so far, that it is by far the best!! Apparently the cheese is even better but there's a two year waiting list for it. Nikola showed us the stone wheel oil mill and press and explained that the process is still as it was hundreds of years ago. The locals are on a roster for using the mill and press, with each producer's batch pressed separately.
We were also invited into Nikola's Konoba, a place where he and his friends come to relax and where his three day 'Bachelor Party' took place. It is complete with a poster of AC/DC, who are apparently legendary in Zverinac. It had the most wonderful smell of smoked meat, probably from the well used fireplace, and is home to his vat of home-made olive oil. Thank you Nikola for a bottle of Zverinca's best!
Photos by Colin and Nic. Click images to enlarge
Otok Molat
Uvala Podgarbe 4.5NM, 1hr sail
Friday April 14 - Saturday April 15
The island of Molat (Otok Molat) is just north of Zverinac and has an area of 22.82 km2. We arrived in Uvala Podgarbe (Podgarbe Cove) on the South side of the island around 1230hrs after a calm motor. Not much sailing to be had in these winds, or lack thereof.
The settlements on the island are Molat, Zapuntel and Brgulje, and they are situated in the interior of the island. According to a local the population for the whole island is around 100. Abdicated English King Edward VIII and his wife Wallis visited the island in 1939, and from 1942 until 1943 it was the site of an Italian concentration camp.
Colin and I mounted our SUPs and paddled around the headland to Molat, where we walked the short hill to the settlement to get supplies. I was sure the shopkeeper giggled when I said in Croatian "Imam torbu" (I have my own bag), and as we departed he quite clearly said "Goodbye" in English. Who knows what I said in Croatian!
We had the cove to ourselves for one of the two nights, with one other yacht keeping us company the first night.
Click images to enlarge
Uvala Podgarbe 4.5NM, 1hr sail
Friday April 14 - Saturday April 15
The island of Molat (Otok Molat) is just north of Zverinac and has an area of 22.82 km2. We arrived in Uvala Podgarbe (Podgarbe Cove) on the South side of the island around 1230hrs after a calm motor. Not much sailing to be had in these winds, or lack thereof.
The settlements on the island are Molat, Zapuntel and Brgulje, and they are situated in the interior of the island. According to a local the population for the whole island is around 100. Abdicated English King Edward VIII and his wife Wallis visited the island in 1939, and from 1942 until 1943 it was the site of an Italian concentration camp.
Colin and I mounted our SUPs and paddled around the headland to Molat, where we walked the short hill to the settlement to get supplies. I was sure the shopkeeper giggled when I said in Croatian "Imam torbu" (I have my own bag), and as we departed he quite clearly said "Goodbye" in English. Who knows what I said in Croatian!
We had the cove to ourselves for one of the two nights, with one other yacht keeping us company the first night.
Click images to enlarge
Luka Brgulje 1.2NM
Sunday April 16
There was another Bora forecast so we sought a mooring in the port of Brgulje (Luka Brgulje), 1.2NM North of Podgarbe. Still getting used to the unique "mooring" system we got the lines a little tangled in the propellor. I had to send my man down to cut us free, then reconnect the bow line to the pier. All ended well though. He's a clever man, and that winter wet suit is coming in VERY handy as the water is apparently still only 14 degrees.
We walked the hill to the settlement and were lucky enough to run into the baker doing her rounds delivering bread. Also luckily her partner spoke English and we were able to buy a loaf. We got other supplies at the harbourside shop. We had to take out a loan to buy lettuce and a few other fresh items, but man cannot live on bread alone!
In the morning someone came to collect fees. Cheaper than Sali at 20kuna/metre, or around AUD$50 for a night.
Not surprisingly this picturesque little town is very popular with yachties during the summer. The t-shirts say "BRGULJE. Hard to say, great to stay".
Click images to enlarge
Sunday April 16
There was another Bora forecast so we sought a mooring in the port of Brgulje (Luka Brgulje), 1.2NM North of Podgarbe. Still getting used to the unique "mooring" system we got the lines a little tangled in the propellor. I had to send my man down to cut us free, then reconnect the bow line to the pier. All ended well though. He's a clever man, and that winter wet suit is coming in VERY handy as the water is apparently still only 14 degrees.
We walked the hill to the settlement and were lucky enough to run into the baker doing her rounds delivering bread. Also luckily her partner spoke English and we were able to buy a loaf. We got other supplies at the harbourside shop. We had to take out a loan to buy lettuce and a few other fresh items, but man cannot live on bread alone!
In the morning someone came to collect fees. Cheaper than Sali at 20kuna/metre, or around AUD$50 for a night.
Not surprisingly this picturesque little town is very popular with yachties during the summer. The t-shirts say "BRGULJE. Hard to say, great to stay".
Click images to enlarge
Uvala Podgarbe 4NM, 1.5hrs
Monday April 17
We left Luka Brgulje around midday on Monday, and Colin did more 'maintenance in exotic locations' (a friend's definition of cruising) after losing control of the gears due to a 'sticky' Morse Controller. He pulled out his most useful tool to fix the problem - the hammer - and we anchored again in Podgarbe Cove for the night.
Molat 1NM, 0.5hrs
Tuesday April 18
Our plans for paddle boarding and relaxing were foiled by the morning forecast of yet another Bora, so we moved to Molat around 1000hrs and moored up for the night. The harbourmaster was very friendly, just like the cruising book says! He came straight away to greet us, hook us up to power, tell us where all the amenities are, and inform us of the nightly fee (30kuna/metre, or around AUD$75 for the night). We walked into town for a few supplies and as we returned to the boat were approached by a man named Tonči offering to cook for us tonight! Well what can you say but yes?! I assume the harbourmaster had informed him that I had asked (in my most excellent Croatian) if there was a restaurant open tonight, but as it doesn't open for another few days Tonči (who works in the restaurant when it's open) offered us a home cooked meal at less than restaurant prices, though he was careful to explain he only had fresh seafood, potatoes from the garden, and home-made red wine! It rained torrentially for the rest of the day so Tonči picked us up from the local bar and drove us to his home where he lives with his parents, grandmother and girlfriend. We found out his mother used to run a restaurant at home, and she cooked us the most delicious squid and fish which was still smoking on the grill when we arrived. We were ushered to our own dining room (we asked Tonči to join us but he was obliged to eat with his family) and given homemade grappa as an aperitif, red wine with the meal, and home made cake and Easter bread for dessert. Tonči's mother came to let us know what was in the cake, and his dad came to tell us about the bar he works in, all in Croatian of course. Tonči was a wonderful host (and translator) and joined us for a long chat after dinner, telling us about his fishing and island life, both which he is in love with. We walked home as the rain had stopped, with full bellies and a warm glow from such wonderful and generous hospitality.
Wednesday April 19
We had already been advised by the locals to stay put for a few nights until the Bora passed, and we thought it sage advice when we woke to strong winds on Wednesday. We spent most of the day shacked up in the boat working on websites and the like, but we did venture out for a walk to the other side of the island, bracing ourselves against the freezing Northeast winds blowing off the snow capped mountains. We climbed one of the wartime lookout towers and found an uncovered manhole. At home this tower would be bolted shut, surrounded by barbed wire, and would have a bloody great sign saying "Keep out!". Here you're free to fall through it if you're silly enough, and I bet you can't sue the Government if you do!
Thursday April 20
We woke to the sound of bleating. I thought it was sheep but when I stuck my head out of the cabin it was goats! Later in the afternoon a man came to the boat selling Otok Molat goat cheese. At least we knew it was fresh, and it was delicious!!
Again we spent most of the day inside the boat as it was freezing and windy out, but eventually we rugged up and walked to the other side of the island and through the town. On the North side of the island there was surf in the small cove that is usually flat as a mill pond! The air may have been 15 degrees but I reckon with the wind chill it was more like -15 so we returned to the boat and put the heater on. We headed out again later to pay for another night's mooring and low and behold, who should be mooring up for the night but four yachts from Burin Yacht Charters on their Team Building excursion! They had sailed in these icy winds from Luka Sali, and we were delighted to see them. We knew they were on Team Building days but had no idea they were coming here. We shared a drink and then left them to it when they headed to the restaurant, specially opened for them tonight.
Friday April 21
We joined the Burin crew for coffee in the morning (and maybe a small drink) and they departed around midday to return to Zadar. Colin and I walked into town and tried to find the 'Lookout'. Problem was there was only one sign on the main road pointing 'that way' and no further signs once we got to the town centre, so we're not sure if we ended up at the lookout or the local dump. Either way it had a great view.
Saturday April 22
We finally departed the lovely Otok Molat at 0930hrs after being there a week. Since we have a sailing vessel we thought we'd try and sail, but we were only making 3 knots so once again we motored. We arrived in Zadar around 1330hrs.
Photos by Colin and Nic. Click images to enlarge
Monday April 17
We left Luka Brgulje around midday on Monday, and Colin did more 'maintenance in exotic locations' (a friend's definition of cruising) after losing control of the gears due to a 'sticky' Morse Controller. He pulled out his most useful tool to fix the problem - the hammer - and we anchored again in Podgarbe Cove for the night.
Molat 1NM, 0.5hrs
Tuesday April 18
Our plans for paddle boarding and relaxing were foiled by the morning forecast of yet another Bora, so we moved to Molat around 1000hrs and moored up for the night. The harbourmaster was very friendly, just like the cruising book says! He came straight away to greet us, hook us up to power, tell us where all the amenities are, and inform us of the nightly fee (30kuna/metre, or around AUD$75 for the night). We walked into town for a few supplies and as we returned to the boat were approached by a man named Tonči offering to cook for us tonight! Well what can you say but yes?! I assume the harbourmaster had informed him that I had asked (in my most excellent Croatian) if there was a restaurant open tonight, but as it doesn't open for another few days Tonči (who works in the restaurant when it's open) offered us a home cooked meal at less than restaurant prices, though he was careful to explain he only had fresh seafood, potatoes from the garden, and home-made red wine! It rained torrentially for the rest of the day so Tonči picked us up from the local bar and drove us to his home where he lives with his parents, grandmother and girlfriend. We found out his mother used to run a restaurant at home, and she cooked us the most delicious squid and fish which was still smoking on the grill when we arrived. We were ushered to our own dining room (we asked Tonči to join us but he was obliged to eat with his family) and given homemade grappa as an aperitif, red wine with the meal, and home made cake and Easter bread for dessert. Tonči's mother came to let us know what was in the cake, and his dad came to tell us about the bar he works in, all in Croatian of course. Tonči was a wonderful host (and translator) and joined us for a long chat after dinner, telling us about his fishing and island life, both which he is in love with. We walked home as the rain had stopped, with full bellies and a warm glow from such wonderful and generous hospitality.
Wednesday April 19
We had already been advised by the locals to stay put for a few nights until the Bora passed, and we thought it sage advice when we woke to strong winds on Wednesday. We spent most of the day shacked up in the boat working on websites and the like, but we did venture out for a walk to the other side of the island, bracing ourselves against the freezing Northeast winds blowing off the snow capped mountains. We climbed one of the wartime lookout towers and found an uncovered manhole. At home this tower would be bolted shut, surrounded by barbed wire, and would have a bloody great sign saying "Keep out!". Here you're free to fall through it if you're silly enough, and I bet you can't sue the Government if you do!
Thursday April 20
We woke to the sound of bleating. I thought it was sheep but when I stuck my head out of the cabin it was goats! Later in the afternoon a man came to the boat selling Otok Molat goat cheese. At least we knew it was fresh, and it was delicious!!
Again we spent most of the day inside the boat as it was freezing and windy out, but eventually we rugged up and walked to the other side of the island and through the town. On the North side of the island there was surf in the small cove that is usually flat as a mill pond! The air may have been 15 degrees but I reckon with the wind chill it was more like -15 so we returned to the boat and put the heater on. We headed out again later to pay for another night's mooring and low and behold, who should be mooring up for the night but four yachts from Burin Yacht Charters on their Team Building excursion! They had sailed in these icy winds from Luka Sali, and we were delighted to see them. We knew they were on Team Building days but had no idea they were coming here. We shared a drink and then left them to it when they headed to the restaurant, specially opened for them tonight.
Friday April 21
We joined the Burin crew for coffee in the morning (and maybe a small drink) and they departed around midday to return to Zadar. Colin and I walked into town and tried to find the 'Lookout'. Problem was there was only one sign on the main road pointing 'that way' and no further signs once we got to the town centre, so we're not sure if we ended up at the lookout or the local dump. Either way it had a great view.
Saturday April 22
We finally departed the lovely Otok Molat at 0930hrs after being there a week. Since we have a sailing vessel we thought we'd try and sail, but we were only making 3 knots so once again we motored. We arrived in Zadar around 1330hrs.
Photos by Colin and Nic. Click images to enlarge
Zadar 17.5NM, 4hrs
Saturday April 22
We arrived in Zadar at 1330hrs, having sailed for two hours from Otok Molat and motored for two. We anchored in Uvala Maestrala (Maestrala Cove) rather than staying in the central marina which costs AUD$110 and doesn't include water or electricity! Just as Colin was maneuvering the boat into place to drop anchor the bow thruster stopped working. He suspected a large piece of plastic, seen floating suspiciously around the boat afterwards, had got caught in the props and was to blame. Not enough to be killing marine life, plastic waste is now killing bow thrusters as well! On with the winter wetsuit and in Colin went, but there was nothing obvious stuck in the props. After a phone call to Andrija it looked like we might be required to lift the boat out of the water in Biograd to fix the problem. Ugh.
It was only a 20 minute walk from the cove to the old city and we spent the afternoon sussing out the services we needed, then later we dined at a lovely meat restaurant called Konoba Rafaelo, recommended by the lady at the Tourist Bureau. Not until we perused the menu did we find out they don't serve seafood, so we both ordered "Meat from the Pig" (as the menu put it). You'd be forgiven for thinking that's a huge flounder on my plate...it's a pork cutlet!
Sunday April 23
The express purpose of coming to Zadar was to get refill bottles for our Soda Stream, which we knew were available at the Elipso store in the Supernova shopping centre. Out that way also is Interspar, where I knew we could get a folding shopping trolley. Colin resisted last time I wanted to buy one, but now he's seen how useful it will be when we have to cart our shopping from the old city. We walked the 10km round trip to the Supernova, guided by an old map with the wrong streets on it, and helped (in Croatian) by a nice lady who saw we were lost. Luckily 'pointing' is a universal language! We later did a 4km round trip trying to find a non-existent supermarket (looks like the internet needs updating), though luckily there was one on the way back. That folding shopping trolley turned out to be worth its weight in Pelinkovac!
In-between those two trips Colin got in the water again, this time with his trusty hammer, and low and behold fixed the bow thruster! He's a clever man that one, also worth his weight in Pelinkovac! The problem was the propellors had come loose (probably due to interference from the plastic waste) and just needed tightening. Okay, hammer AND allen key.
This morning we had the most delightful experience. Colin woke to a 'thump', and when he went to investigate there was a duck on the back of the boat! Well, he said, it is a duck board. We had two other visits, one from a duckling who ventured up the steps into the cockpit, and one from the mother who flew onto the side of the boat. Colin said she was teaching her kids how to get on and off a boat. So cute those ducks.
Monday April 24
We took a stroll into the old city to stock up at the fresh markets. Colin actually enjoyed the experience, though I couldn't convince him the weekend markets are just as much fun at home. We returned to the boat and headed for Biograd for a short stopover to get our washing done, though the Jugo (strong SE wind) had other plans...
Click images to enlarge
We arrived in Zadar at 1330hrs, having sailed for two hours from Otok Molat and motored for two. We anchored in Uvala Maestrala (Maestrala Cove) rather than staying in the central marina which costs AUD$110 and doesn't include water or electricity! Just as Colin was maneuvering the boat into place to drop anchor the bow thruster stopped working. He suspected a large piece of plastic, seen floating suspiciously around the boat afterwards, had got caught in the props and was to blame. Not enough to be killing marine life, plastic waste is now killing bow thrusters as well! On with the winter wetsuit and in Colin went, but there was nothing obvious stuck in the props. After a phone call to Andrija it looked like we might be required to lift the boat out of the water in Biograd to fix the problem. Ugh.
It was only a 20 minute walk from the cove to the old city and we spent the afternoon sussing out the services we needed, then later we dined at a lovely meat restaurant called Konoba Rafaelo, recommended by the lady at the Tourist Bureau. Not until we perused the menu did we find out they don't serve seafood, so we both ordered "Meat from the Pig" (as the menu put it). You'd be forgiven for thinking that's a huge flounder on my plate...it's a pork cutlet!
Sunday April 23
The express purpose of coming to Zadar was to get refill bottles for our Soda Stream, which we knew were available at the Elipso store in the Supernova shopping centre. Out that way also is Interspar, where I knew we could get a folding shopping trolley. Colin resisted last time I wanted to buy one, but now he's seen how useful it will be when we have to cart our shopping from the old city. We walked the 10km round trip to the Supernova, guided by an old map with the wrong streets on it, and helped (in Croatian) by a nice lady who saw we were lost. Luckily 'pointing' is a universal language! We later did a 4km round trip trying to find a non-existent supermarket (looks like the internet needs updating), though luckily there was one on the way back. That folding shopping trolley turned out to be worth its weight in Pelinkovac!
In-between those two trips Colin got in the water again, this time with his trusty hammer, and low and behold fixed the bow thruster! He's a clever man that one, also worth his weight in Pelinkovac! The problem was the propellors had come loose (probably due to interference from the plastic waste) and just needed tightening. Okay, hammer AND allen key.
This morning we had the most delightful experience. Colin woke to a 'thump', and when he went to investigate there was a duck on the back of the boat! Well, he said, it is a duck board. We had two other visits, one from a duckling who ventured up the steps into the cockpit, and one from the mother who flew onto the side of the boat. Colin said she was teaching her kids how to get on and off a boat. So cute those ducks.
Monday April 24
We took a stroll into the old city to stock up at the fresh markets. Colin actually enjoyed the experience, though I couldn't convince him the weekend markets are just as much fun at home. We returned to the boat and headed for Biograd for a short stopover to get our washing done, though the Jugo (strong SE wind) had other plans...
Click images to enlarge
Biograd na Moru 14NM, 3hrs
Monday April 24 - Saturday April 29
We arrived in Biograd around 1430hrs and anchored next to the marina in our usual spot. Quick trip into town to drop our washing off, back to the boat for a long overdue shower, and in to the Marina Kornati restaurant for dinner. The restaurant touts itself as a traditional Dalmatian style konoba, and true to their word Colin's pork was cooked on the grill in the dining room.
Tuesday April 25
The plan was to spend a night in Biograd, get our washing done (the laundry service in town being just as cheap as the laundromat), get a gas bottle filled, and head for the islands. However, the winds blew up in the morning to 18-25kns, gusting up to 30kns, and why sail in that if you don't have to, especially if it's going to be in your face?! We headed into town to collect our laundry and say hi to the folks at Burin Yacht Charter. Andrija suggested we stay put as the Jugo was going to be blowing for the next few days. We grabbed some salad at the market and knew we had left over mince for dinner so we headed back to the boat to hunker down. The sky was black but no rain came out of it. We had a reprieve overnight - the wind dropped and we had a peaceful sleep.
Wednesday April 26
As the wind had increased and was gusting up to 37kns we decided it best to stay on board for the day to make sure the boat stayed put. Part of this early period with the boat is getting to know her and how she handles in different weather, and it certainly was a good test for the anchor - we didn't drag an inch! Colin pulled out his leather sewing kit and started mending the couch covers and I worked on my websites. I ventured out around 5pm to sit in the cockpit for 5 minutes but that was about it. As we didn't stock up on fresh meat Colin created a tasty meal from tinned tuna and rice. We had fresh veg to go with it so no worries about getting scurvy.
Thursday April 27
Last night the winds gusted up to 40/45kns. It was a restless night for me and Colin, though I know I shouldn't worry if he wasn't. Turned out he was more concerned about the bimini tearing than the anchor dragging, but luckily both survived the night. The stronger winds continued and we decided it would be wise to spend another day on the boat. Just when we were thinking it would be tinned tuna for dinner again we had a period where we were able to get off the boat and into shore for supplies. We bought a fresh fish at the market for about AUD$20 including scaling. We figure we're way in front buying fresh fish as a fishing license would cost us around AUD$150/month (compared to $100/year for a local), and past experience has showed we never make our money back!
We made it back just before the rain came, and luckily because it didn't let up all day and night. We'll say one thing about the weather forecasts here, they're extremely accurate! They said the wind would increase around 11pm last night and so it did. Not at all like the Perth bureau who couldn't tell you the weather yesterday...
Friday April 28
We thought the winds might die down today but it seemed the opposite happened. Winds were consistently 25kns, gusting to 35/40kns, which officially classified us as being in a gale! Colin had the motor on twice, ready to beat a hasty retreat if necessary, once after coming to an abrupt halt having dragged 50m, and once when it looked like someone was going to anchor across our chain. Around 1300hrs a number of boats arrived and tried to anchor. We thought it must be because it was too hard to get them back into the marina. However, at around 1430hrs that's exactly where they all went! We're not sure what they were waiting for. The winds to drop? Other boats to leave? Help to be available? Who knows. At around 1530hrs it started raining and the wind swung us around 360 degrees. Colin stood watch upstairs again, then suddenly, at 1630hrs, the winds stopped. Just like the forecast said it would, give or take an hour.
I got to do more work on websites and movies that have been outstanding from dive trips going back to 2004! There are some advantages to being boat-bound.
Saturday April 29
If it's not the Bora it's the Jugo, and if it's not the Jugo it's the Bora! Seems we've gone from one to the other the past couple of weeks, but at least the Bora is favourable for sailing today at only around 15-20kns. We headed in to shore to get our final supplies and fill a gas bottle, and after lunch finally managed to leave Biograd and set sail for the islands again. We love you Biograd, but you're not as much fun when you can't get off the boat.
Click images to enlarge
We arrived in Biograd around 1430hrs and anchored next to the marina in our usual spot. Quick trip into town to drop our washing off, back to the boat for a long overdue shower, and in to the Marina Kornati restaurant for dinner. The restaurant touts itself as a traditional Dalmatian style konoba, and true to their word Colin's pork was cooked on the grill in the dining room.
Tuesday April 25
The plan was to spend a night in Biograd, get our washing done (the laundry service in town being just as cheap as the laundromat), get a gas bottle filled, and head for the islands. However, the winds blew up in the morning to 18-25kns, gusting up to 30kns, and why sail in that if you don't have to, especially if it's going to be in your face?! We headed into town to collect our laundry and say hi to the folks at Burin Yacht Charter. Andrija suggested we stay put as the Jugo was going to be blowing for the next few days. We grabbed some salad at the market and knew we had left over mince for dinner so we headed back to the boat to hunker down. The sky was black but no rain came out of it. We had a reprieve overnight - the wind dropped and we had a peaceful sleep.
Wednesday April 26
As the wind had increased and was gusting up to 37kns we decided it best to stay on board for the day to make sure the boat stayed put. Part of this early period with the boat is getting to know her and how she handles in different weather, and it certainly was a good test for the anchor - we didn't drag an inch! Colin pulled out his leather sewing kit and started mending the couch covers and I worked on my websites. I ventured out around 5pm to sit in the cockpit for 5 minutes but that was about it. As we didn't stock up on fresh meat Colin created a tasty meal from tinned tuna and rice. We had fresh veg to go with it so no worries about getting scurvy.
Thursday April 27
Last night the winds gusted up to 40/45kns. It was a restless night for me and Colin, though I know I shouldn't worry if he wasn't. Turned out he was more concerned about the bimini tearing than the anchor dragging, but luckily both survived the night. The stronger winds continued and we decided it would be wise to spend another day on the boat. Just when we were thinking it would be tinned tuna for dinner again we had a period where we were able to get off the boat and into shore for supplies. We bought a fresh fish at the market for about AUD$20 including scaling. We figure we're way in front buying fresh fish as a fishing license would cost us around AUD$150/month (compared to $100/year for a local), and past experience has showed we never make our money back!
We made it back just before the rain came, and luckily because it didn't let up all day and night. We'll say one thing about the weather forecasts here, they're extremely accurate! They said the wind would increase around 11pm last night and so it did. Not at all like the Perth bureau who couldn't tell you the weather yesterday...
Friday April 28
We thought the winds might die down today but it seemed the opposite happened. Winds were consistently 25kns, gusting to 35/40kns, which officially classified us as being in a gale! Colin had the motor on twice, ready to beat a hasty retreat if necessary, once after coming to an abrupt halt having dragged 50m, and once when it looked like someone was going to anchor across our chain. Around 1300hrs a number of boats arrived and tried to anchor. We thought it must be because it was too hard to get them back into the marina. However, at around 1430hrs that's exactly where they all went! We're not sure what they were waiting for. The winds to drop? Other boats to leave? Help to be available? Who knows. At around 1530hrs it started raining and the wind swung us around 360 degrees. Colin stood watch upstairs again, then suddenly, at 1630hrs, the winds stopped. Just like the forecast said it would, give or take an hour.
I got to do more work on websites and movies that have been outstanding from dive trips going back to 2004! There are some advantages to being boat-bound.
Saturday April 29
If it's not the Bora it's the Jugo, and if it's not the Jugo it's the Bora! Seems we've gone from one to the other the past couple of weeks, but at least the Bora is favourable for sailing today at only around 15-20kns. We headed in to shore to get our final supplies and fill a gas bottle, and after lunch finally managed to leave Biograd and set sail for the islands again. We love you Biograd, but you're not as much fun when you can't get off the boat.
Click images to enlarge
Otočić Žminjak 8.5NM, 2.5hrs
Saturday April 29
We arrived in the islet of Žminjak (otočić Žminjak) around 1500hrs. Colin was very happy to be at the helm under sail instead of motor, and frequently remarked how gorgeous the sailing is here, with adequate winds but without the rough seas you would have at home. We were greeted at the end of the jetty by Stjepan, one of the restaurant staff. He gave us information about mooring fees, and as a buoy was only AUD$30 we decided to hook up for the night so we could be free from worry. We had underestimated the stress of the past few days being on anchor in strong winds, what with the anchor dragging after 3 days of holding, having to constantly be alert to noises that might mean something was breaking or the boat was moving, and worrying about the boat holding in the changed winds yesterday when we went to get supplies. |
Tying up to a buoy was not as easy as we assumed. The buoy was tied to a mooring block, could not be reached from the bow, and could not be lifted far out of the water, so we quickly found out that our usual approach was not going to work. As with most sailing operations here, reversing up was the most sensible way to get a rope though. As the bow line wasn't long enough we used the stern line and cleat, then reversed slowly along side the buoy until we could switch the stern line for the bow line around mid ships. Easy once you know how.
Sunday April 30
The Zminjak coastline is 2.5kms long. We waited for the winds to settle before SUPping around the island anticlockwise. It was calm when we left but by the time we rounded the Western tip the wind had changed direction and we were facing smack bang into a Westerly. We did well to stay upright, and made it back to the boat dry.
Later in the afternoon we were joined by 17 Russian boats on a regatta weekend. We'd heard that Russians drink ALL night and make a lot of noise about it, so it was lucky we were on a mooring and not on the jetty with them. We beat the crowd to dinner in the very picturesque restaurant and watched them slowly filter in, starting the evening with a few rounds of 'shots' before dinner. It looked to be shaping up for a big night, and we went to sleep with the sounds of disco. I guess some things are universal.
Click images to enlarge
Sunday April 30
The Zminjak coastline is 2.5kms long. We waited for the winds to settle before SUPping around the island anticlockwise. It was calm when we left but by the time we rounded the Western tip the wind had changed direction and we were facing smack bang into a Westerly. We did well to stay upright, and made it back to the boat dry.
Later in the afternoon we were joined by 17 Russian boats on a regatta weekend. We'd heard that Russians drink ALL night and make a lot of noise about it, so it was lucky we were on a mooring and not on the jetty with them. We beat the crowd to dinner in the very picturesque restaurant and watched them slowly filter in, starting the evening with a few rounds of 'shots' before dinner. It looked to be shaping up for a big night, and we went to sleep with the sounds of disco. I guess some things are universal.
Click images to enlarge