Argolikós Kólpos (Argolic Gulf)
Pórto Héli
Wednesday September 28 - Friday 30
Free anchorage
Wednesday September 28 - Friday 30
Free anchorage
In preparation for our next guest we spent the day cleaning the boat. It’s lucky we have the occasional guest or the boat would probably never get cleaned.
Elaine arrived on the 18:45 ferry that had departed Piraeus three hours earlier, and of course we took her to our favourite restaurant for dinner. On our way to shore we stopped briefly to chat with Andrew on Licence to Chill and recommended he also dine at Salt & Pepper, and Colin gave what he felt were reasonable directions.
Poor Iásonas (we finally asked the son his name) was on his own as his dad had hurt his back. He did an amazing job and remained unflustered and friendly throughout the evening, also managing to be very patient with my attempts to speak Greek. He has taken over Ismini’s task of helping me improve. Andrew and Gary from Licence to Chill arrived, immediately giving Colin a serve for his dodgy directions. We chatted with them a little after the meal, which Elaine was suitably impressed with (the meal, and the chat)
Thursday
Elaine had arrived in sunshine and warmth in stark contrast to her last two days on the Amalfi coast. Naturally we started our day with a swim followed by a bougátsa at Drougas, and a walk through town and along the waterfront. After frequent stops to shoot Elaine in yoga poses with picturesque backgrounds I believe the long-suffering captain gained a new appreciation for the 'short' time he spends waiting for me to take photos.
Click images to enlarge
Elaine arrived on the 18:45 ferry that had departed Piraeus three hours earlier, and of course we took her to our favourite restaurant for dinner. On our way to shore we stopped briefly to chat with Andrew on Licence to Chill and recommended he also dine at Salt & Pepper, and Colin gave what he felt were reasonable directions.
Poor Iásonas (we finally asked the son his name) was on his own as his dad had hurt his back. He did an amazing job and remained unflustered and friendly throughout the evening, also managing to be very patient with my attempts to speak Greek. He has taken over Ismini’s task of helping me improve. Andrew and Gary from Licence to Chill arrived, immediately giving Colin a serve for his dodgy directions. We chatted with them a little after the meal, which Elaine was suitably impressed with (the meal, and the chat)
Thursday
Elaine had arrived in sunshine and warmth in stark contrast to her last two days on the Amalfi coast. Naturally we started our day with a swim followed by a bougátsa at Drougas, and a walk through town and along the waterfront. After frequent stops to shoot Elaine in yoga poses with picturesque backgrounds I believe the long-suffering captain gained a new appreciation for the 'short' time he spends waiting for me to take photos.
Click images to enlarge
Waiting for the sneeze...
Nísos Spétses, Órmos Zoyioryia
Friday September 30 - Saturday October 1 3nm, 45min
Free anchorage
Friday September 30 - Saturday October 1 3nm, 45min
Free anchorage
Colin has taken on the job of controller for the MedNet on Wednesdays and Fridays, but as our reception was very poor we couldn’t hear anyone with any clarity or consistency, so he discharged his duties in record time.
After a quick dash to shore for provisioning at the AB Supermarket and Drougas Bakery, we took off to Órmos Zoyioryia on Spétses. On arrival there were only two other yachts in the bay, and Elaine got some footage and photos on a background of tranquility and crystal clear water. Our tranquility was short lived, however, as three super stinky super yachts barrelled in moored up. One of them, Ouranos, was for hire at €265,000 a week. We made enquires via the website about chartering it next week. Colin and Elaine had action-packed entertainment for the afternoon, watching the boys on their boat toys, of which there were many! Remember, he who dies with the most toys wins. Not only were we entertained by boat toys, and later a water skier creating rollers in the bay, but we got to enjoy, from our bedrooms, the sound of a movie playing three boats away. Did it need to be that loud? Apparently so.
Before bed Elaine and I swam with the magical bioluminescence, shooting off electric sparks from our fingers and toes. This has been one of the best places for seeing biolumies, and Elaine was just as enthralled and mesmerised as I was.
Click images to enlarge
After a quick dash to shore for provisioning at the AB Supermarket and Drougas Bakery, we took off to Órmos Zoyioryia on Spétses. On arrival there were only two other yachts in the bay, and Elaine got some footage and photos on a background of tranquility and crystal clear water. Our tranquility was short lived, however, as three super stinky super yachts barrelled in moored up. One of them, Ouranos, was for hire at €265,000 a week. We made enquires via the website about chartering it next week. Colin and Elaine had action-packed entertainment for the afternoon, watching the boys on their boat toys, of which there were many! Remember, he who dies with the most toys wins. Not only were we entertained by boat toys, and later a water skier creating rollers in the bay, but we got to enjoy, from our bedrooms, the sound of a movie playing three boats away. Did it need to be that loud? Apparently so.
Before bed Elaine and I swam with the magical bioluminescence, shooting off electric sparks from our fingers and toes. This has been one of the best places for seeing biolumies, and Elaine was just as enthralled and mesmerised as I was.
Click images to enlarge
Khäidhari, Órmos Drepanou
Saturday October 1 - Sunday 2 18nm, 3hrs 25min
Free anchorage
Saturday October 1 - Sunday 2 18nm, 3hrs 25min
Free anchorage
After a morning swim and breakfast we escaped just as more super yachts were rolling into the bay. There was no breeze for sailing so we motored to our destination and dropped the pick mid-afternoon, in time to enjoy the last few hours of bulldozing on the gash in the hillside behind the town.
As the sun descended we walked the waterfront and ate at the taverna with the friendliest staff. I got to practise my Greek and we introduced ourselves to the lovely woman who greeted and served us. She went by Xenia (pronounced Senja), but her full name was Metaxia, meaning rare, unique, delicate, and that she was.
Click images to enlarge
As the sun descended we walked the waterfront and ate at the taverna with the friendliest staff. I got to practise my Greek and we introduced ourselves to the lovely woman who greeted and served us. She went by Xenia (pronounced Senja), but her full name was Metaxia, meaning rare, unique, delicate, and that she was.
Click images to enlarge
Koiláda via Toló and Nisís Toló
Sunday October 2 - Tuesday 4 20nm, 4hrs
Free anchorage
Sunday October 2 - Tuesday 4 20nm, 4hrs
Free anchorage
Sunday morning Elaine emerged from the bedroom commenting on the ‘blast’ the previous night. The wind had certainly blown up and howled through the boat in the early hours. Both Colin and I had been upstairs at different times to make sure we weren’t dragging (we were rather close to the shore after all) and that no one was dragging too close to us. It wasn’t the strongest blow we’ve experienced; it just felt like it because we haven’t had any wind at all for a while, and it was certainly enough to impress our guest.
The wind was still up when we departed Khäidhari and the captain was keen to take advantage and sail. All three of us helmed, riding the Lass through gusts up to 25kns and enjoying it thoroughly. Heading north to Toló we did a reccy of the town before checking an anchorage on nearby Nisís Toló. It remained a possibility for the future as it didn’t look secure enough for the current conditions.
Onwards to Koiláda and our favourite fish taverna for dinner, where the friendliness of the staff was nothing to write home about but the food, as always, was. None of us could believe the number of cats hanging around the tables. I was awed by how casually a lady at a nearby table ignored a cat almost jumping into her lap, until I realised she hadn’t noticed, because the next time it jumped up she did notice and a scream accompanied that awareness.
Ask me not why melted chocolate with a praline centre is hilarious, for I cannot answer (truthfully), but sometimes it just is. We were all in stitches having our post-prandial treat, Elaine most of all. Good for the digestion apparently; laughter, not chocolate-coated praline.
Monday was all go with yoga, paddle-boarding, swimming, and finally exploring the Franchthi caves*, which we always talk about doing but hadn’t yet managed.
Returning to our favourite fish taverna we were once again delighted with the food, and had the younger friendly waiter. After the meal, as I was commenting that we thought the food was péda nóstima, Elaine was trying to regurgitate exairetikó (excellent), as taught to her by Dimítri at Salt & Pepper. She wasn’t quite nailing though, and Colin commented he probably told the owner one of the customers said the food tasted great and the other said it tasted like excrement. Curious I’m sure. Meanwhile, the older waiter, and probably the owner, was being super friendly and chatting with all the customers. Elaine was in complete disbelief that this was the same grumpy man who waited tables the previous night. He even chatted with us and taught me the Greek for “I have nothing”, which is what I had said when Colin asked for money to pay the bill.
In the morning, predawn, as I was in the cockpit surveying the situation, Elaine appeared and remarked on how wild the wind had been overnight, and pretty much still was. The Lass was being tossed around like a rag doll while it blew dogs of chains, gusting 30-35kns. Okay, perhaps not quite strong enough to blown dogs off chains, but windy none the less. We stood outside pondering the mystery of the Lass facing a different way from all the other yachts, until the captain arose and gave us explanation. It was something about the cold wind accelerating as it comes down off the mountain and fanning out in different directions when it hits the water. Whatever the cause, we were getting air at the bow and the wheel was squeaking as the boat was buffeted around. Such excitement.
* Humans first occupied the Franchthi cave during the Upper Paleolithic era, appearing around 38,000 BC and possibly earlier. Groups continued to live in or seasonally visit the cave throughout the Mesolithic and Neolithic eras, with occasional short episodes of apparent abandonment. Last occupied around 3,000 BC (Final Neolithic), Franchthi was used as a shelter for around 35,000 years and is one of the most thoroughly studied sites from the stone age in Southeast Europe.
Click images to enlarge
The wind was still up when we departed Khäidhari and the captain was keen to take advantage and sail. All three of us helmed, riding the Lass through gusts up to 25kns and enjoying it thoroughly. Heading north to Toló we did a reccy of the town before checking an anchorage on nearby Nisís Toló. It remained a possibility for the future as it didn’t look secure enough for the current conditions.
Onwards to Koiláda and our favourite fish taverna for dinner, where the friendliness of the staff was nothing to write home about but the food, as always, was. None of us could believe the number of cats hanging around the tables. I was awed by how casually a lady at a nearby table ignored a cat almost jumping into her lap, until I realised she hadn’t noticed, because the next time it jumped up she did notice and a scream accompanied that awareness.
Ask me not why melted chocolate with a praline centre is hilarious, for I cannot answer (truthfully), but sometimes it just is. We were all in stitches having our post-prandial treat, Elaine most of all. Good for the digestion apparently; laughter, not chocolate-coated praline.
Monday was all go with yoga, paddle-boarding, swimming, and finally exploring the Franchthi caves*, which we always talk about doing but hadn’t yet managed.
Returning to our favourite fish taverna we were once again delighted with the food, and had the younger friendly waiter. After the meal, as I was commenting that we thought the food was péda nóstima, Elaine was trying to regurgitate exairetikó (excellent), as taught to her by Dimítri at Salt & Pepper. She wasn’t quite nailing though, and Colin commented he probably told the owner one of the customers said the food tasted great and the other said it tasted like excrement. Curious I’m sure. Meanwhile, the older waiter, and probably the owner, was being super friendly and chatting with all the customers. Elaine was in complete disbelief that this was the same grumpy man who waited tables the previous night. He even chatted with us and taught me the Greek for “I have nothing”, which is what I had said when Colin asked for money to pay the bill.
In the morning, predawn, as I was in the cockpit surveying the situation, Elaine appeared and remarked on how wild the wind had been overnight, and pretty much still was. The Lass was being tossed around like a rag doll while it blew dogs of chains, gusting 30-35kns. Okay, perhaps not quite strong enough to blown dogs off chains, but windy none the less. We stood outside pondering the mystery of the Lass facing a different way from all the other yachts, until the captain arose and gave us explanation. It was something about the cold wind accelerating as it comes down off the mountain and fanning out in different directions when it hits the water. Whatever the cause, we were getting air at the bow and the wheel was squeaking as the boat was buffeted around. Such excitement.
* Humans first occupied the Franchthi cave during the Upper Paleolithic era, appearing around 38,000 BC and possibly earlier. Groups continued to live in or seasonally visit the cave throughout the Mesolithic and Neolithic eras, with occasional short episodes of apparent abandonment. Last occupied around 3,000 BC (Final Neolithic), Franchthi was used as a shelter for around 35,000 years and is one of the most thoroughly studied sites from the stone age in Southeast Europe.
Click images to enlarge
Toló and Nisís Toló
Koiláda
Pórto Héli
Tuesday October 4 - Sunday 9 12nm, 2.5hrs
Free anchorage
Tuesday October 4 - Sunday 9 12nm, 2.5hrs
Free anchorage
Following yoga in the cockpit with Elaine (the established morning routine for the two of them) Colin dinghied into town to book our car from the Elgea Group that Zig had used. Then it was time to head to Pórto Héli before the winds changed. We had a pretty calm journey with a following wind and were anchored by early afternoon.
As Elaine was hoping to do a little last minute shopping, we explored the town instead of heading to our usual restaurant on the other side of the bay. After passing all the fancy restaurants selling variations on Greek food at inflated prices, we happened upon Flisvos Taverna and were warmly greeted by Melissa, her husband George, and her sister-in-law Christina. The menu was traditional food, and George’s mother was in the kitchen cooking up a storm. We had to stay, and were so happy we did because the evening was delightful, and I got more Greek language instruction from Melissa (who speaks six languages) and learned from George that Nyki means victory. That’s me, goddess of victory! Melissa was born of Italian and German parents and learned English at school, then lived in London where she nailed English, lived in Spain where she added another language, and met George whilst on holiday in Greece, and the rest is history. Somewhere in there she also learned French for good measure. She chatted with us, telling how desperately she wanted to travel to Australia, and hugged us all goodbye. It was a perfect final evening for Elaine, made even more special by Colin playing the bagpipes.
Appropriately attired in my pyjama pants, dressing gown and spray jacket, I accompanied Colin and Elaine to the ferry departing at 05:50. After long hugs she boarded, and we returned to the boat and watched her leave. Well, Colin did; I was back in bed and asleep. Poor love had an 18 hour journey ahead, and sent me a message when she got home saying how amazing her first shower in a week felt. I replied, “Oh showers! I remember those.” I think it jogged Colin’s memory too because he made water and ran the motor so we could have hot showers.
Late morning we checked in with the Port Authority, and were met with an officious official who went over everything with a fine-toothed comb, even asking to see Colin’s yacht license. That’s a first. We got our transit log stamp, but confusing instructions to check out again before heading to Koiláda. We figure we’ll do as they say and ask questions at Basimakopoulos Shipyard when we arrive.
After dealing with the Port Authority we of course stopped by Drougas for a breakfast of champions; bougátsa and freddo espresso. I shall miss both when we leave Greece. I then dragged Colin along to revisit the shop Μουσείο (Museum) as I simply had to buy more of their beautiful small pots. I had seen new designs when I went in with Elaine the previous evening, and the shop owner had said she thinks I like it here, and that she has a spare Christmas tree if I need it. On this, my final visit (for this year), I introduced myself and found out her name is Mariétta. In my best Greek I said I wanted to buy two, maybe four, more pots and she joked with me that I was not allowed to. When it came time to buy the four pots I’d chosen she said she was only charging me for two. I tried to protest but was told this was not the done thing, so with much gratitude I thanked her profusely and remarked on what a sweet thing that was for her to do. I was very touched.
Just before bed, when I was asking what happened to our hot shower, the captain stated he hadn’t had to run the motor because the gale force winds had kept the batteries charged, even after running the water maker for three hours. It was then I understood that hot showers happen because of a need to charge batteries, not a need to be clean - interesting priorities - so it was another ‘Mediterranean shower’ for me with a wash in the ocean.
Click images to enlarge
As Elaine was hoping to do a little last minute shopping, we explored the town instead of heading to our usual restaurant on the other side of the bay. After passing all the fancy restaurants selling variations on Greek food at inflated prices, we happened upon Flisvos Taverna and were warmly greeted by Melissa, her husband George, and her sister-in-law Christina. The menu was traditional food, and George’s mother was in the kitchen cooking up a storm. We had to stay, and were so happy we did because the evening was delightful, and I got more Greek language instruction from Melissa (who speaks six languages) and learned from George that Nyki means victory. That’s me, goddess of victory! Melissa was born of Italian and German parents and learned English at school, then lived in London where she nailed English, lived in Spain where she added another language, and met George whilst on holiday in Greece, and the rest is history. Somewhere in there she also learned French for good measure. She chatted with us, telling how desperately she wanted to travel to Australia, and hugged us all goodbye. It was a perfect final evening for Elaine, made even more special by Colin playing the bagpipes.
Appropriately attired in my pyjama pants, dressing gown and spray jacket, I accompanied Colin and Elaine to the ferry departing at 05:50. After long hugs she boarded, and we returned to the boat and watched her leave. Well, Colin did; I was back in bed and asleep. Poor love had an 18 hour journey ahead, and sent me a message when she got home saying how amazing her first shower in a week felt. I replied, “Oh showers! I remember those.” I think it jogged Colin’s memory too because he made water and ran the motor so we could have hot showers.
Late morning we checked in with the Port Authority, and were met with an officious official who went over everything with a fine-toothed comb, even asking to see Colin’s yacht license. That’s a first. We got our transit log stamp, but confusing instructions to check out again before heading to Koiláda. We figure we’ll do as they say and ask questions at Basimakopoulos Shipyard when we arrive.
After dealing with the Port Authority we of course stopped by Drougas for a breakfast of champions; bougátsa and freddo espresso. I shall miss both when we leave Greece. I then dragged Colin along to revisit the shop Μουσείο (Museum) as I simply had to buy more of their beautiful small pots. I had seen new designs when I went in with Elaine the previous evening, and the shop owner had said she thinks I like it here, and that she has a spare Christmas tree if I need it. On this, my final visit (for this year), I introduced myself and found out her name is Mariétta. In my best Greek I said I wanted to buy two, maybe four, more pots and she joked with me that I was not allowed to. When it came time to buy the four pots I’d chosen she said she was only charging me for two. I tried to protest but was told this was not the done thing, so with much gratitude I thanked her profusely and remarked on what a sweet thing that was for her to do. I was very touched.
Just before bed, when I was asking what happened to our hot shower, the captain stated he hadn’t had to run the motor because the gale force winds had kept the batteries charged, even after running the water maker for three hours. It was then I understood that hot showers happen because of a need to charge batteries, not a need to be clean - interesting priorities - so it was another ‘Mediterranean shower’ for me with a wash in the ocean.
Click images to enlarge