Middle Kykládes - Páros & Náxos
Nísos Paros
Nísos Páros, Órmos Plastirá
Wednesday May 31 - Wednesday June 7 16nm, 2hrs 30min
Anchored in 4-5m in sand
Wednesday May 31 - Wednesday June 7 16nm, 2hrs 30min
Anchored in 4-5m in sand
Wednesday was a painless day of motoring and anchoring in the bay directly north of where our friend Katina's family have a villa. Katina's husband, Ziggy, accompanied her father, Giánnis, from Perth and is staying a while to help get everything in order prior to the first guest booking in a few weeks. We caught up with him for a swim in the afternoon.
Thursday Colin and I took to the streets of Náoussa while the other Zig and Giánnis sorted out some communication essentials over in the port town and island capital, Paroikiá. I immediately fell in love with the quintessential whitewashed houses and narrow, stone-paved streets.
Click images to enlarge
Thursday Colin and I took to the streets of Náoussa while the other Zig and Giánnis sorted out some communication essentials over in the port town and island capital, Paroikiá. I immediately fell in love with the quintessential whitewashed houses and narrow, stone-paved streets.
Click images to enlarge
Friday we were boat bound due to a continual light rain that didn't cease until dark. As I love rain it didn't bother me, but the captain prefers sunshine (strange man) so he was not so happy.
Saturday brought sunshine! Tying up to a private jetty of a ‘water toys’ rental called the WaterSkiZone we tried to find Dimitri, who gave the okay to tie up there when Colin was introduced to him yesterday. Colin was trying to explain to the staff that we know Peter (Zig’s other name) and Giánnis, when one of them said, “It doesn’t matter who you know. It won’t help you any more than you are helping yourself.” With that we thanked him and headed down the road.
Zig picked us up where we'd met him on Wednesday, at the Akti Hotel, and took us to see Villa Avraam. On the way we picked up take-away at a restaurant owned by Giánnis' family. Zig told us Giánnis is related to half the island, and we had no reason to question this as he pointed out the various relatives’ homes and businesses.
We knew to look for the landmark windmill on the hill when trying to see Villa Avraam from the bay, but we didn’t know it belonged to the family and was on their land. Zig gave us a quick tour. Spectacular views from the villa and the windmill.
Returning to the boat we saw that quite a number of vessels had anchored, including O'Ptasia, an 85m vessel that takes 12 guests and has 27 crew, 4 tenders, 41 water toys, an infinity pool, and much, much more, all for only €800,000 a week. Split 12 ways though that’s a mere €9,524 each per day. Sign me up!
Click images to enlarge
Saturday brought sunshine! Tying up to a private jetty of a ‘water toys’ rental called the WaterSkiZone we tried to find Dimitri, who gave the okay to tie up there when Colin was introduced to him yesterday. Colin was trying to explain to the staff that we know Peter (Zig’s other name) and Giánnis, when one of them said, “It doesn’t matter who you know. It won’t help you any more than you are helping yourself.” With that we thanked him and headed down the road.
Zig picked us up where we'd met him on Wednesday, at the Akti Hotel, and took us to see Villa Avraam. On the way we picked up take-away at a restaurant owned by Giánnis' family. Zig told us Giánnis is related to half the island, and we had no reason to question this as he pointed out the various relatives’ homes and businesses.
We knew to look for the landmark windmill on the hill when trying to see Villa Avraam from the bay, but we didn’t know it belonged to the family and was on their land. Zig gave us a quick tour. Spectacular views from the villa and the windmill.
Returning to the boat we saw that quite a number of vessels had anchored, including O'Ptasia, an 85m vessel that takes 12 guests and has 27 crew, 4 tenders, 41 water toys, an infinity pool, and much, much more, all for only €800,000 a week. Split 12 ways though that’s a mere €9,524 each per day. Sign me up!
Click images to enlarge
Wild Carrot (Daucus carota) aka Queen Anne's Lace
Sunday, with a forecast of strong winds for the next two days, we moved at midday to Órmos Ágiou Ioánnou, more commonly known as Monastíri Bay. We knew it was a bit of a party bay, but what we didn’t know was that we were in the middle of a three-day religious celebration known as Holy Spirit Monday. The bay filled up with partiers, but worse than that was the high speed ski boat that zoomed back and forth between us and the next boat creating noise and wake. My my, we are becoming so intolerant of dickheads. We felt grateful when the catamaran next to us left, along with their loud music and the four large ribs of party goers clinging to it, but were immediately dispirited to find that even louder music was coming from the taverna on shore. Enough!, we said, and after only six and a half hours in the bay we weighed anchor. I was feeling a bit old and curmudgeonly until I found out our new friends on Pen Azen only lasted there 20 minutes. We anchored near them when we returned to Plastirá bay. A couple of other boats relocated from Monastíri Bay to this quieter location too. Loud doof-doof and dickheads just aren’t for everyone.
Click images to enlarge
Click images to enlarge
Monday Zig took us on a tour to Lefkés in the central part of the island. Firstly we stopped for coffee at the little harbour of Ampelás where some ducks walked right up to me! Who cares if it’s safe harbour when there are ducks.
The village of Lefkés has around 500 inhabitants and is built at an altitude of 300 meters above sea level, and it’s here that the Byzantine Road starts, a paved footpath dating from the Byzantine period, leading to the village of Pródromos and ending up at the sea.
After winding through the charming village Zig took us to Paroikiá, the port town and island capital, and to meet his friend Kosta who runs a burger joint in the elevated fancy part of town. Zig told him we were interested in swapping locations for a year; we’d run his restaurant and he could sail our boat. He seemed keen on the idea, though Colin said he might not get his customers back, to which Kosta replied, “You might not get your boat back.”
There seem to be an inordinate amount of churches around, and Zig informed us you can build a church on your land and it doesn’t count as a building. Interesting. Amazingly, I didn’t get a single photo of one, though I had definitely intended to.
Click images to enlarge
The village of Lefkés has around 500 inhabitants and is built at an altitude of 300 meters above sea level, and it’s here that the Byzantine Road starts, a paved footpath dating from the Byzantine period, leading to the village of Pródromos and ending up at the sea.
After winding through the charming village Zig took us to Paroikiá, the port town and island capital, and to meet his friend Kosta who runs a burger joint in the elevated fancy part of town. Zig told him we were interested in swapping locations for a year; we’d run his restaurant and he could sail our boat. He seemed keen on the idea, though Colin said he might not get his customers back, to which Kosta replied, “You might not get your boat back.”
There seem to be an inordinate amount of churches around, and Zig informed us you can build a church on your land and it doesn’t count as a building. Interesting. Amazingly, I didn’t get a single photo of one, though I had definitely intended to.
Click images to enlarge
Ducks!
Lefkés
Tuesday it was still blowing force 5ish, which, for those unfamiliar with the Beaufort Scale, is BLOODY STRONG! Nothing else for it but to head to land again and complete another of the activities recommended by Zig and climb the Mycenaean Acropolis. Zig, the consummate tour guide, came with us, and we managed to uncover some ruins he hadn’t previously seen. Consummate you say?
As there are no killer sharks or Redback spiders or other such deadly creatures in Greece I didn’t stop to think there might be lethal snakes, but Zig told us about the tiny “Minute Snake”, so venomous you only have a minute to live if you get bitten. He then told us they run rampant throughout the stone walls, and we all know how many stone walls there are. Apparently, though, the snake is so small it can’t get it’s mouth around any of your body parts to bite you. Phew! Though it makes me query whether it’s really a minute snake, or a minute snake. The internet was no help as it gave us no evidence that this little snake exists at all, but who am I to argue with a ‘local’.
Hot from hiking we nipped down to Monastíri Bay for a quick dip before Zig had to return to helping Giánnis. I tried to buy an extortionately priced take-away coffee at the Monastíri Beach Bar but gave up after a while as the “someone” I was promised was coming to make it never materialised. Luckily I was able to buy a less extortionately priced one further down the road after Zig dropped us off.
Click images to enlarge
As there are no killer sharks or Redback spiders or other such deadly creatures in Greece I didn’t stop to think there might be lethal snakes, but Zig told us about the tiny “Minute Snake”, so venomous you only have a minute to live if you get bitten. He then told us they run rampant throughout the stone walls, and we all know how many stone walls there are. Apparently, though, the snake is so small it can’t get it’s mouth around any of your body parts to bite you. Phew! Though it makes me query whether it’s really a minute snake, or a minute snake. The internet was no help as it gave us no evidence that this little snake exists at all, but who am I to argue with a ‘local’.
Hot from hiking we nipped down to Monastíri Bay for a quick dip before Zig had to return to helping Giánnis. I tried to buy an extortionately priced take-away coffee at the Monastíri Beach Bar but gave up after a while as the “someone” I was promised was coming to make it never materialised. Luckily I was able to buy a less extortionately priced one further down the road after Zig dropped us off.
Click images to enlarge
Nísos Náxos
Nísos Náxos, Órmos Náxou
Wednesday June 7 - Thursday 8 10nm, 1hr 45min
Anchored in 7m in sand
Wednesday June 7 - Thursday 8 10nm, 1hr 45min
Anchored in 7m in sand
Wednesday the forecast was for light winds so with great effort we extracted ourselves from beautiful Páros and sailed to Náxos. The winds, however, were not light, which we discovered as soon as the bow was out of the harbour. They were more like 20kts gusting 25, but the direction was favourable for a comfortable reach.
The anchorage behind the breakwater in Náxos town was small, and we tucked in behind the other two boats. However, it was evident we had to move once a car ferry arrived as they had to moor stern to on the pier and we were pretty close to its trajectory. We moved forward, as directed by the harbour master with a whistle and hand movements, and a little bit west. Luckily the pick dug in firmly again.
Deciding the wind was too strong to launch the dinghy we resigned ourselves to staying on board until tomorrow, but I felt a bit soft when I saw a man in the boat in front of us launch an inflatable kayak and paddle to shore. I think he had no alternative for getting to shore for supplies. I was going to offer them a lift in the dinghy when we launched it, but he completed his mission in the kayak and a while later weighed anchor and left the bay.
I’ve never seen so many ferries arrive and depart from a port. After the midday car ferry we figured it would just be passenger ferries from then on, but not so. There were a few more car ferries throughout the afternoon, and a plethora of day tripping and transport ferries coming and going all day. I suppose being right next to the pier made it hard not to notice, but I’ve really never seen anything like it.
Later in the day a few more boats anchored in the small area, and, could it be, the catamaran that landed next to us had chickens on board! I feel that now Colin has seen it doesn't have to be messy I will have more leverage for bringing our 'girls' when we next go sailing.
Thursday morning the wind had calmed so we headed to shore and do what we needed to do, which, in priority order, was:
Returning to the boat we saw the couple from the catamaran jumping into their dinghy with a motorbike and a passerelle. Another first! I asked if I could take a photo and they were very obliging, and we had a quick chat about chickens and sight-seeing destinations. We hope to see them again on our travels.
I was interested to see the cargo ships had to drop anchor to go stern to, same as us. I hadn't really ever thought about how they kept their ground while unloading.
Click images to enlarge
The anchorage behind the breakwater in Náxos town was small, and we tucked in behind the other two boats. However, it was evident we had to move once a car ferry arrived as they had to moor stern to on the pier and we were pretty close to its trajectory. We moved forward, as directed by the harbour master with a whistle and hand movements, and a little bit west. Luckily the pick dug in firmly again.
Deciding the wind was too strong to launch the dinghy we resigned ourselves to staying on board until tomorrow, but I felt a bit soft when I saw a man in the boat in front of us launch an inflatable kayak and paddle to shore. I think he had no alternative for getting to shore for supplies. I was going to offer them a lift in the dinghy when we launched it, but he completed his mission in the kayak and a while later weighed anchor and left the bay.
I’ve never seen so many ferries arrive and depart from a port. After the midday car ferry we figured it would just be passenger ferries from then on, but not so. There were a few more car ferries throughout the afternoon, and a plethora of day tripping and transport ferries coming and going all day. I suppose being right next to the pier made it hard not to notice, but I’ve really never seen anything like it.
Later in the day a few more boats anchored in the small area, and, could it be, the catamaran that landed next to us had chickens on board! I feel that now Colin has seen it doesn't have to be messy I will have more leverage for bringing our 'girls' when we next go sailing.
Thursday morning the wind had calmed so we headed to shore and do what we needed to do, which, in priority order, was:
- Visit the unfinished Temple of Apollo
- Check in and out with the Port Authority (Náxos being the first of the Cycladic ports we’ve been in that has this facility)
- Wander up to the Venetian Castle in the Kastro area
- Find a bakery for bread, breakfast and coffee. I stuck to my usual, and we bought some bread with “rye and sunny seeds”. It sounded delightful
- Buy provisions. We even bought loose fresh eggs and got them back to the boat unbroken.
Returning to the boat we saw the couple from the catamaran jumping into their dinghy with a motorbike and a passerelle. Another first! I asked if I could take a photo and they were very obliging, and we had a quick chat about chickens and sight-seeing destinations. We hope to see them again on our travels.
I was interested to see the cargo ships had to drop anchor to go stern to, same as us. I hadn't really ever thought about how they kept their ground while unloading.
Click images to enlarge
Temple of Apollo