Shark Bay
Mauds Landing to Denham
Monday August 23 - Wednesday 25 180nm, 43hr sail
Monday August 23 - Wednesday 25 180nm, 43hr sail
Monday we left Maud’s Landing at 0600 hours to catch a favourable breeze, though we knew from experience the forecast rarely matches the reality. It started out okay, but the south-easterly (i.e. pleasant sailing conditions) only lasted ‘til mid-morning then died and we reverted to motoring, my favourite kind of sailing.
This, however, did not last either, and the forecast prediction of a slight following wind did not eventuate. The breeze instead swung into the south, of course, and settled in at 20-25kns for the next 18 hours. And we tacked…and tacked…and tacked…and tacked…heading 5-10 miles out to sea and then 5-10 miles back toward the coast, so that after sailing 20 miles in four hours we’d only progressed about 10-12 miles south. Slow going indeed, but the boys enjoyed the sailing and seemed happy to cover the night shifts without my help. I gratefully accepted the offer, but was not quite so grateful when I tried to sleep. I was in the front cabin so the boys could switch off in the back cabin, but up front it was like a roller coaster where the carriage occasionally leaves the rails then slams back down. Actually, no, it was worse than that. I have referred to that passage as 'heinous' though 'odious' sums it up much better. Still, by morning it was all over. Geoff said I should have slept in the back cabin and that he likes sleeping in the front and being tossed around like a rag doll. Well now you bloody tell me!!!
The rest of the passage was smooth motoring as the wind eased off and finally died altogether. We started seeing whales again as we entered Shark Bay, and the previous night was quickly forgotten. Luckily we had not encountered whales during the rough passage, as Colin would not have been happy to turn the motor on and shake up the fuel. We know how that ends and it’s not good.
While we watched the whale action, strange web-like strands were wafting through the air and attaching to the stays. Colin thought they may be blowing from the land and carrying plant seeds, but as a whale breached in the distance Geoff and I both shouted 'whale snot!' but then quickly dismissed it with a shudder!
In the wee small hours of Wednesday (0100 hours) we finally arrived at Denham. Colin had contacted Glen and our 'regular' mooring was thankfully available. It was so quiet and still it was almost eerie, so used to the noise of strong winds or the motor were we.
Click images to enlarge
This, however, did not last either, and the forecast prediction of a slight following wind did not eventuate. The breeze instead swung into the south, of course, and settled in at 20-25kns for the next 18 hours. And we tacked…and tacked…and tacked…and tacked…heading 5-10 miles out to sea and then 5-10 miles back toward the coast, so that after sailing 20 miles in four hours we’d only progressed about 10-12 miles south. Slow going indeed, but the boys enjoyed the sailing and seemed happy to cover the night shifts without my help. I gratefully accepted the offer, but was not quite so grateful when I tried to sleep. I was in the front cabin so the boys could switch off in the back cabin, but up front it was like a roller coaster where the carriage occasionally leaves the rails then slams back down. Actually, no, it was worse than that. I have referred to that passage as 'heinous' though 'odious' sums it up much better. Still, by morning it was all over. Geoff said I should have slept in the back cabin and that he likes sleeping in the front and being tossed around like a rag doll. Well now you bloody tell me!!!
The rest of the passage was smooth motoring as the wind eased off and finally died altogether. We started seeing whales again as we entered Shark Bay, and the previous night was quickly forgotten. Luckily we had not encountered whales during the rough passage, as Colin would not have been happy to turn the motor on and shake up the fuel. We know how that ends and it’s not good.
While we watched the whale action, strange web-like strands were wafting through the air and attaching to the stays. Colin thought they may be blowing from the land and carrying plant seeds, but as a whale breached in the distance Geoff and I both shouted 'whale snot!' but then quickly dismissed it with a shudder!
In the wee small hours of Wednesday (0100 hours) we finally arrived at Denham. Colin had contacted Glen and our 'regular' mooring was thankfully available. It was so quiet and still it was almost eerie, so used to the noise of strong winds or the motor were we.
Click images to enlarge
Denham
Wednesday August 25 - Saturday 28
Wednesday August 25 - Saturday 28
Wednesday morning was an absolute glass off and perfect for stand-up paddle boarding, which is exactly what I did while Colin tried once again to fix the nav lights. Later we visited the visitor centre to scope out how to get to and from the airport. Geoff needed a way out of Denham and I had decided (with encouragement from Colin) to abandon ship and fly home, knowing the passage south would more than likely be as odious as the one from Coral Bay. Geoff had committed to returning to assist with the journey, and booked a flight back to Denham on the 31st. I asked about transport to and from the airport and was not prepared for the reply – there isn’t any! Interesting. Geoff was fine, he’d booked a bus to Port Hedland and was getting picked up in town, and it was suggested I post on the two Shark Bay websites that I needed a lift to the airport and see what happens. I’m far too anxious to leave things that much to chance, so I got the number of the one and only car rental agency and Colin got busy on the phone when we got back to the boat. He was able to organise for Fiona and Lloyd, who arrive Friday, to get a lift from the airport with the rental car agency at $20 a head, and for a car rental from the Tuesday 31st to Thursday 2nd so Geoff and I can get to and from the airport, and Fiona and Lloyd can get to the Monkey Mia Resort where they are staying for two nights after leaving us, and so they can get to the airport following that. Well done captain! The only uncertainty now was what would happen if Perth went into lockdown and Geoff couldn’t back, as he was heading home to Bunbury after Port Hedland. Watch this space.
Thursday was back to normal with 25 knot winds. We stayed on the boat and cleaned and did washing, and Colin had another crack at fixing the nav lights. He nailed down that the cable was the problem, and sent a message to Lloyd to bring cable.
Colin had a made a booking at the Heritage Hotel for dinner, but as we got into the dinghy and the waves smacked against the side of the boat I thought it was a decidedly bad idea. I tried to tell the guys we should turn around and cancel the booking but we were pretty committed by then, plus we had nothing on board for dinner. Suffice it to say it was a very wet trip in. The guys were in wet-weather gear and I had my long raincoat on and my pants rolled up, but some water snuck in around the edges and I ended up with a slightly wet bottom. At the restaurant I saw a punter looking at my pants with a dubious expression and thought it best to wrap my jacket around my waist for the duration of the meal.
By the end of the meal the wind had not lessened as predicted, and I’d hazard a guess that had in fact increased, so the dinghy ride back was an even wetter experience. I didn’t bother rolling up my pants, just got wet and changed when I got back to the boat. I had to laugh as the waves crashed into the dinghy, simply because we had thought it a good idea to go out in this. The guy on the boat next to us had even yelled at us as we departed about being mad going out. The worst of it was that Colin was going to have to bring Geoff back out here in the wee small hours as the coach was picking him up at 3.00am!!
Friday the wind had whipped up again, though luckily it had died down when Colin had to run Geoff into shore before dawn. Colin and I went into town to get Glen his bottle of scotch for payment for the mooring, and found out we were unlikely to be able to stay on it another night. We visited the Shire Office to find out about the DoT public jetty and they sent us to the Visitor Centre, saying they would have a better idea of bookings. They didn’t, but said they were now tasked with checking who was on the jetty and providing a form to complete and lodge back at the Shire Office. It reminded us of registering in Greece but with the offices closer together. First in best dressed they told us, so we took the form, raced back to the boat, moored up on the jetty, and all this before breakfast! Mooring up wasn’t the easiest with a strong wind blowing us off the jetty, but I got the springer on and we slowly worked at getting the other lines on and tight. That done we got brunch and coffee, then finished cleaning the boat in preparation for our next guests. No rest for the wicked.
Fi and Lloyd’s arrival was slightly delayed due to aircraft mechanical problems. Fiona was somewhat dubious about getting back on a plane with engine trouble, but better they discovered the problem before the flight, I say. Dinner was once again booked for the Heritage Hotel, but it was a lot easier and drier getting there from the jetty.
Click images to enlarge
Thursday was back to normal with 25 knot winds. We stayed on the boat and cleaned and did washing, and Colin had another crack at fixing the nav lights. He nailed down that the cable was the problem, and sent a message to Lloyd to bring cable.
Colin had a made a booking at the Heritage Hotel for dinner, but as we got into the dinghy and the waves smacked against the side of the boat I thought it was a decidedly bad idea. I tried to tell the guys we should turn around and cancel the booking but we were pretty committed by then, plus we had nothing on board for dinner. Suffice it to say it was a very wet trip in. The guys were in wet-weather gear and I had my long raincoat on and my pants rolled up, but some water snuck in around the edges and I ended up with a slightly wet bottom. At the restaurant I saw a punter looking at my pants with a dubious expression and thought it best to wrap my jacket around my waist for the duration of the meal.
By the end of the meal the wind had not lessened as predicted, and I’d hazard a guess that had in fact increased, so the dinghy ride back was an even wetter experience. I didn’t bother rolling up my pants, just got wet and changed when I got back to the boat. I had to laugh as the waves crashed into the dinghy, simply because we had thought it a good idea to go out in this. The guy on the boat next to us had even yelled at us as we departed about being mad going out. The worst of it was that Colin was going to have to bring Geoff back out here in the wee small hours as the coach was picking him up at 3.00am!!
Friday the wind had whipped up again, though luckily it had died down when Colin had to run Geoff into shore before dawn. Colin and I went into town to get Glen his bottle of scotch for payment for the mooring, and found out we were unlikely to be able to stay on it another night. We visited the Shire Office to find out about the DoT public jetty and they sent us to the Visitor Centre, saying they would have a better idea of bookings. They didn’t, but said they were now tasked with checking who was on the jetty and providing a form to complete and lodge back at the Shire Office. It reminded us of registering in Greece but with the offices closer together. First in best dressed they told us, so we took the form, raced back to the boat, moored up on the jetty, and all this before breakfast! Mooring up wasn’t the easiest with a strong wind blowing us off the jetty, but I got the springer on and we slowly worked at getting the other lines on and tight. That done we got brunch and coffee, then finished cleaning the boat in preparation for our next guests. No rest for the wicked.
Fi and Lloyd’s arrival was slightly delayed due to aircraft mechanical problems. Fiona was somewhat dubious about getting back on a plane with engine trouble, but better they discovered the problem before the flight, I say. Dinner was once again booked for the Heritage Hotel, but it was a lot easier and drier getting there from the jetty.
Click images to enlarge
Dirk Hartog Island
Saturday August 28 - Monday 30 --nm, --hr sail
Saturday August 28 - Monday 30 --nm, --hr sail
Saturday the wind was still howling, but it was surprisingly pleasant sailing across to Homestead Bay on Dirk Hartog Island. The wind was in a favourable direction for once!
Arriving late in the afternoon we saw Infinity anchored in the bay, though Donna and Andrew were nowhere to be seen. Ashore at the Gourmet Food show we assumed.
Sunday we caught up with them, and confirmed they were indeed ashore at the food festival, and had been there for five days. What started out as one dinner had expanded to lunch and dinner every day.
Click images to enlarge
Arriving late in the afternoon we saw Infinity anchored in the bay, though Donna and Andrew were nowhere to be seen. Ashore at the Gourmet Food show we assumed.
Sunday we caught up with them, and confirmed they were indeed ashore at the food festival, and had been there for five days. What started out as one dinner had expanded to lunch and dinner every day.
Click images to enlarge