Northern Dalmatia
Otočić Obinuš 18NM, 5hrs
Monday May 1st We woke to a glassed off bay with a moderate SSW breeze and decided to do some exploration of potential anchorages - Murter, Marina Betina, and Pirovac. It was magical day with perfect breezes, and yachts everywhere! Perhaps it's the official start of the sailing season, marking the beginning of fair winds and warmer weather on a three day weekend, May 1st being the day work shuts down and everyone goes swimming. Of course we did the same. On to Obinuš to anchor for the night, a cove so obscure is doesn't even rate a mention on Google Earth or the internet! In the bottom right corner it's where the the 'M' is for 'Murter and its islands'. The tiny island opposite is Skoljic. Click images to enlarge |
Skradin 20NM, 4hrs
Tuesday May 2 - Thursday May 4 Light winds gave us a pleasant sail South to Kanal Sv. Ante (the St Anthony Channel) which took us to the industrial town and port of Šibenik. At the entrance to the kanal we passed Jadrija beach lighthouse on the port side and Tvrđava Sv. Nikole (St. Nicholas Fortress) on starboard. The town of Šibenik has four fortresses but only Tvrđava Sv. Nikole is at sea. At Šibenik we entered the Krka river which is navigable as far as Skradin, a small village of Roman origin which lies at the entrance to the Krka National Park. Historically Skradin was the administrative and military centre of the region. Today it's a thriving Mediterranean town with narrow paved streets, passages, vaults and stairs. We climbed the hill to the medieval fortress of Turina (Tvrđava Turina) for spectacular views of the town and bay. The fresh water around Skradin is home to many white swans, who were regular visitors to the boat and featured in photos of the magnificent sunsets. Click images to enlarge |
Biograd na Moru 33.5NM, 6hrs
Thursday May 4th
Up at dawn and on our way by 0645hrs to be in Šibenik by 0900hrs for Colin's scheduled strategic planning meeting with Living Smart. You can't say we don't know how to have fun! Following the meeting we motored back to Biograd arriving at 1550hrs, this time to have a window replaced. We've been waiting for it since we arrived but the supplier delivered the wrong size, twice! I mean the size is written on it, how hard can it be? Apparently it's quite hard as Andrija said it happens all the time.
Up at dawn and on our way by 0645hrs to be in Šibenik by 0900hrs for Colin's scheduled strategic planning meeting with Living Smart. You can't say we don't know how to have fun! Following the meeting we motored back to Biograd arriving at 1550hrs, this time to have a window replaced. We've been waiting for it since we arrived but the supplier delivered the wrong size, twice! I mean the size is written on it, how hard can it be? Apparently it's quite hard as Andrija said it happens all the time.
Friday May 5th
Third time lucky, the supplier sent the correct size window! We headed in to the marina and Andrija installed it in no time. We could have done with it last night as it bucketed down all night. We returned to our anchorage and I spent the afternoon straightening up the boat and preparing for our first guest arriving May 9th. (Guest room in photo) We waited for the wind to abate slightly before heading in through the waves to dinner at the gluten-free restaurant just near our anchorage. The house specialty was mussels in a white wine and tomato sauce, and the 'fish lady' from the market was delivering the mussels as we arrived. They probably don't come much fresher so we both ordered them. |
Saturday May 6th
Although my Hrvatskog is improving I still manage to make an embarrassing hash of it sometimes. Today I think I asked the beautician how much it would cost for a half back wax. Leđa, sounds like leg but means back. Also I don't think they use the term 'half leg' here, so even when I reverted to English I was getting strange looks. Perhaps I'll find another beautician.
With three trips to town we got food supplies, filled the gas bottle, and collected our washing. We then got diesel at the fuel jetty and around 1300hrs left Biograd once again for the islands.
Although my Hrvatskog is improving I still manage to make an embarrassing hash of it sometimes. Today I think I asked the beautician how much it would cost for a half back wax. Leđa, sounds like leg but means back. Also I don't think they use the term 'half leg' here, so even when I reverted to English I was getting strange looks. Perhaps I'll find another beautician.
With three trips to town we got food supplies, filled the gas bottle, and collected our washing. We then got diesel at the fuel jetty and around 1300hrs left Biograd once again for the islands.
Otok Pašman
Soline 9.5NM, 2hrs
Saturday May 6th
Disturbing the only other yacht in the bay we arrived in Soline around 1450hrs. However, we soon discovered we didn't disturb them at all, they were already disturbed! (by copious amounts of alcohol we suspect...there was a lot of laughing and shouting). We braved the cold water for a dip, Colin in his winter wet suit so he could check the anchor. The rain started lightly and gradually built to a steady patter, with the new window keeping the saloon bone dry. The breeze moved us around a little in the evening but then changed direction which made for a rocky rolly night. Around 0030hrs the wind blew up, only to around 20kns but with accompanying rain, thunder and lightening it can be a bad sign in these parts so Colin sat upstairs to keep an eye on things for around two and a half hours. He is a very vigilant captain, and Andrija only yesterday had asked us to please be very careful in such conditions.
Sunday May 7th
Cold, wet and windy so we stayed indoors all day working on websites and databases.
Monday May 8th
Ahhh, Croatian cruising as it should be. Warm and glassed off. I knew I brought my underwater camera housing for a reason...to take SUPping!
Click images to enlarge
Saturday May 6th
Disturbing the only other yacht in the bay we arrived in Soline around 1450hrs. However, we soon discovered we didn't disturb them at all, they were already disturbed! (by copious amounts of alcohol we suspect...there was a lot of laughing and shouting). We braved the cold water for a dip, Colin in his winter wet suit so he could check the anchor. The rain started lightly and gradually built to a steady patter, with the new window keeping the saloon bone dry. The breeze moved us around a little in the evening but then changed direction which made for a rocky rolly night. Around 0030hrs the wind blew up, only to around 20kns but with accompanying rain, thunder and lightening it can be a bad sign in these parts so Colin sat upstairs to keep an eye on things for around two and a half hours. He is a very vigilant captain, and Andrija only yesterday had asked us to please be very careful in such conditions.
Sunday May 7th
Cold, wet and windy so we stayed indoors all day working on websites and databases.
Monday May 8th
Ahhh, Croatian cruising as it should be. Warm and glassed off. I knew I brought my underwater camera housing for a reason...to take SUPping!
Click images to enlarge
Otok Rava
Mala Rava 20NM, 4hrs
Monday May 8 - Tuesday May 9
Departed Soline at 1300hrs under sail. As we were heading North into a NE wind Colin tacked to within view of Rava then motored the rest of the way. He is LOVING the sailing, and I must say it's pretty comfortable.
On the small island of Rava there are two settlements, Vela Rava and Mala Rava (big and small). We hooked up to a buoy in Mala Rava cove and launched the dinghy to explore the town. The only other life form was a touring boat of 8 Germans who seem to be doing a cycling cruise. We met a lovely, enthusiastic couple who explained the routine to us in a mix of English and German but we got the gist. Sounds like they cycle from town to town and are met at each destination by the boat where they eat and sleep. Sounds like a great way to get the best of both worlds!
We walked through the settlement, marvelling at how fertile the land is (once you remove the dolomite rocks) and how every inch of land around the houses is used to grow produce. Towards the North end of the cove we found a tiny little place with tables and a beer fridge, and with some persistence were eventually able to rouse someone to serve us a drink. A very friendly man wiped the table and brought us cushions, and we enjoyed a stunning view of the cove.
Photos by Colin and me. Click images to enlarge
Monday May 8 - Tuesday May 9
Departed Soline at 1300hrs under sail. As we were heading North into a NE wind Colin tacked to within view of Rava then motored the rest of the way. He is LOVING the sailing, and I must say it's pretty comfortable.
On the small island of Rava there are two settlements, Vela Rava and Mala Rava (big and small). We hooked up to a buoy in Mala Rava cove and launched the dinghy to explore the town. The only other life form was a touring boat of 8 Germans who seem to be doing a cycling cruise. We met a lovely, enthusiastic couple who explained the routine to us in a mix of English and German but we got the gist. Sounds like they cycle from town to town and are met at each destination by the boat where they eat and sleep. Sounds like a great way to get the best of both worlds!
We walked through the settlement, marvelling at how fertile the land is (once you remove the dolomite rocks) and how every inch of land around the houses is used to grow produce. Towards the North end of the cove we found a tiny little place with tables and a beer fridge, and with some persistence were eventually able to rouse someone to serve us a drink. A very friendly man wiped the table and brought us cushions, and we enjoyed a stunning view of the cove.
Photos by Colin and me. Click images to enlarge