Kólpos Ídhras & Saronikós Kólpos
Kólpos Ídhras
Nisís Dhokós, Órmos Skíntou
Tuesday May 9 - Thursday 11 33nm, 4hrs 45min
Tuesday May 9 - Thursday 11 33nm, 4hrs 45min
Tuesday 9
Heading to Nisís Dhokós (Dhokós Island) we had the joy of dolphins riding the bow wave. It was a fairly calm trip, wind assisted only for short periods but otherwise motoring. Colin wanted to check out the coves at the SW end of Ídhra, having read that Leonard Cohen used to swim here when he lived on the island. He of course said that’s not the reason he wanted to see them, but who believes that?
After checking out Órmos Kávouri we rounded the corner and were head on into forceful winds funnelling down between Ídhra and Dhokós. Fortunately it didn’t take long to reach the protection on Órmos Skíndos, the northern bay of Dhokós. We had the place to ourselves for a short while, then the charter boats started pulling in and Colin had no end of entertainment watching them moor up in rather inefficient ways.
Wednesday 10
Today’s mission was to find hag stones.
We’d anchored in the east side of the bay but the wind was barrelling down the valley, so we moved to our usual spot in the south part where the wind seemed noticeably less.
After finding a few hag stones on the small pebble beach, and collecting two bags of rubbish, we returned by dinghy to the east side to check out the supposed tavern mentioned in the cruising guide, but any tavern there might have been has long since ceased to operate.
It felt a tad nippier in the water today, and Colin could gauge the water temperature by the amount of gasping and cursing I did when I jumped in. He finally committed to a quick dip, and by quick I mean he was back on the duckboard before the splash of his entry reached my ears.
There was further entertainment for the captain as a charter boat tried repeatedly to tie back to shore near us. Colin was completely baffled why anyone would keep trying that mooring method when they could just drop their pick, which they eventually did. Obviously they weren’t comfortable with it though, because they soon weighed anchor and joined the others on the east side, tying back of course, as is their wont.
Thursday 11
There are two other small beaches near what I call “hag stone beach” that looked similar and had untapped potential. We had no more used plastic bags to collect rubbish in, and Colin thought we’d done our fair share yesterday, but when we got to the first beach it was strewn with rubbish. Colin’s resolve disappeared when he found a large plastic bag, and we both collected what rubbish we could, and I kept an eye out for hag stones. It was a disappointing site, not for the lack of what we went for, but for what we found instead.
The other unexplored beach was not safe for landing the dinghy, so we gave it a miss rather than risk a puncture.
Back at the boat I was preparing to swim when I saw tiny flecks of electric blue movement in the water. I had bioluminescence on my mind because of reading about piddocks, the molluscs that bore holes in rocks and start the process of making a hag stone, and how they glow blue-green around the edges through bioluminescence (taken from Wildlife Explorer). However, Colin disabused me of that notion by telling me they were bits of microplastic. Unconvinced, I asked him to scoop one up in the bucket. He maintained his opinion, but after watching it for a while I saw it move. Fascinated, I took movies of them, then noticed other small jelly-like creatures in the water, and the occasional remains of a jellyfish. Then the blue flecks increased in number and I thought I saw a tiny squid or octopus. We have no idea what any of it was, but speculated it might some kind of spawning event. Very magical and mysterious.
I decided I could swim somewhere else.
Click images to enlarge
Heading to Nisís Dhokós (Dhokós Island) we had the joy of dolphins riding the bow wave. It was a fairly calm trip, wind assisted only for short periods but otherwise motoring. Colin wanted to check out the coves at the SW end of Ídhra, having read that Leonard Cohen used to swim here when he lived on the island. He of course said that’s not the reason he wanted to see them, but who believes that?
After checking out Órmos Kávouri we rounded the corner and were head on into forceful winds funnelling down between Ídhra and Dhokós. Fortunately it didn’t take long to reach the protection on Órmos Skíndos, the northern bay of Dhokós. We had the place to ourselves for a short while, then the charter boats started pulling in and Colin had no end of entertainment watching them moor up in rather inefficient ways.
Wednesday 10
Today’s mission was to find hag stones.
We’d anchored in the east side of the bay but the wind was barrelling down the valley, so we moved to our usual spot in the south part where the wind seemed noticeably less.
After finding a few hag stones on the small pebble beach, and collecting two bags of rubbish, we returned by dinghy to the east side to check out the supposed tavern mentioned in the cruising guide, but any tavern there might have been has long since ceased to operate.
It felt a tad nippier in the water today, and Colin could gauge the water temperature by the amount of gasping and cursing I did when I jumped in. He finally committed to a quick dip, and by quick I mean he was back on the duckboard before the splash of his entry reached my ears.
There was further entertainment for the captain as a charter boat tried repeatedly to tie back to shore near us. Colin was completely baffled why anyone would keep trying that mooring method when they could just drop their pick, which they eventually did. Obviously they weren’t comfortable with it though, because they soon weighed anchor and joined the others on the east side, tying back of course, as is their wont.
Thursday 11
There are two other small beaches near what I call “hag stone beach” that looked similar and had untapped potential. We had no more used plastic bags to collect rubbish in, and Colin thought we’d done our fair share yesterday, but when we got to the first beach it was strewn with rubbish. Colin’s resolve disappeared when he found a large plastic bag, and we both collected what rubbish we could, and I kept an eye out for hag stones. It was a disappointing site, not for the lack of what we went for, but for what we found instead.
The other unexplored beach was not safe for landing the dinghy, so we gave it a miss rather than risk a puncture.
Back at the boat I was preparing to swim when I saw tiny flecks of electric blue movement in the water. I had bioluminescence on my mind because of reading about piddocks, the molluscs that bore holes in rocks and start the process of making a hag stone, and how they glow blue-green around the edges through bioluminescence (taken from Wildlife Explorer). However, Colin disabused me of that notion by telling me they were bits of microplastic. Unconvinced, I asked him to scoop one up in the bucket. He maintained his opinion, but after watching it for a while I saw it move. Fascinated, I took movies of them, then noticed other small jelly-like creatures in the water, and the occasional remains of a jellyfish. Then the blue flecks increased in number and I thought I saw a tiny squid or octopus. We have no idea what any of it was, but speculated it might some kind of spawning event. Very magical and mysterious.
I decided I could swim somewhere else.
Click images to enlarge
Saronikós Kólpos
Nísos Póros
Thursday May 11 - Monday 15 18nm, 3hrs 15min
Anchored in 14m in Navy Bay
Thursday May 11 - Monday 15 18nm, 3hrs 15min
Anchored in 14m in Navy Bay
From Dhokós we headed to one of our much loved locations, Nísos Póros. The sea was like a washing machine, which is highly unpleasant in case anyone is wondering, and remained so until we entered the channel. Heading straight to Navy Bay we anchored in our usual spot in around 14m.
Póros town held the same wonderful sights, sounds and experiences, but in much more pleasant conditions - cooler and less crowded.
Amazingly, yachties don't seem to heed the warnings about the risk of being violently pushed into the quay by the wash of the ferries if you don't have plenty of scope on your anchor. The passerelles can smash through sterns (as Colin saw last year) slip from the quay, and break toes if you’re not careful, which happened to a kid who decided to try and board while the boat was slopping around. We saw yachts rolling side to side so fiercely in the wash they were crossing masts with the boats either side at about 90 degrees, and only narrowly avoiding contact. This is one of many reasons we prefer to anchor out if possible.
Saturday we walked around the entire island of Sfería (the smaller isle). It didn’t take long. It’s a pretty small island. According to the ancient traveler and geographer, Pafsania, from antiquity Póros consisted of two isles - Sfería and Kalavría (meaning pleasant breeze) - and the latter was initially dedicated to Apollo who then transferred it over to Poseidon in exchange for Delphi. However, there are many other myths to explain the names (Taken from Póros Mythology).
Póros town held the same wonderful sights, sounds and experiences, but in much more pleasant conditions - cooler and less crowded.
- Men flicking and clicking their rosary beads as they wait or drink coffee
- Men playing backgammon and eating together
- A warm greeting from the lovely waitress at Geia Mas
- Pistachio ice cream as Véssala
- The spongy boardwalk like a bouncy castle underfoot
- Navy drills and buoyant morning music
- Private yacht bigger than cruise ship
- Some people I meet helping me with my Greek
- A walk to the Clock Tower and the amazing view of the bay
- Tangled anchor entertainment viewed from the clock tower
- The putt-putt-putt of the fishermen trolling the bay in their one-man boats
- The bells of the Clock Tower sounding out across the bay, and the shock when you don't know the time and you're standing underneath it when it strikes.
Amazingly, yachties don't seem to heed the warnings about the risk of being violently pushed into the quay by the wash of the ferries if you don't have plenty of scope on your anchor. The passerelles can smash through sterns (as Colin saw last year) slip from the quay, and break toes if you’re not careful, which happened to a kid who decided to try and board while the boat was slopping around. We saw yachts rolling side to side so fiercely in the wash they were crossing masts with the boats either side at about 90 degrees, and only narrowly avoiding contact. This is one of many reasons we prefer to anchor out if possible.
Saturday we walked around the entire island of Sfería (the smaller isle). It didn’t take long. It’s a pretty small island. According to the ancient traveler and geographer, Pafsania, from antiquity Póros consisted of two isles - Sfería and Kalavría (meaning pleasant breeze) - and the latter was initially dedicated to Apollo who then transferred it over to Poseidon in exchange for Delphi. However, there are many other myths to explain the names (Taken from Póros Mythology).
When I first posted in my family chat that we were off sailing, my brother, who has a virtual reality flight simulator set up at his house, responded “Ta Nic, I shall follow your adventures at 6000 feet”. So when we saw a plane flying over Póros Colin asked if I thought it was Dave. I posted the following in the family chat…
Hey bro
Colin wants to know if this is you, following us at 6000 feet…
Hey bro
Colin wants to know if this is you, following us at 6000 feet…
And if it is, I wanna know what you’re going to do about THAT!!!!
|
There was no response. Perhaps he hadn’t landed yet.
P.S.He responded a day later with "Yair, that's me. Taking evasive action to avoid the 747 sized seagull to my right".
Click images to enlarge
P.S.He responded a day later with "Yair, that's me. Taking evasive action to avoid the 747 sized seagull to my right".
Click images to enlarge
The Clock Tower
Roadside Shrines of Sfería
Órmos Vídhi
Monday May 15 - Thursday 18 3nm, 45min
Anchored in 9m
Monday May 15 - Thursday 18 3nm, 45min
Anchored in 9m
Tuesday, for the first time this season we got the standup paddle-boards into the water. We had a day of cloud, sunshine, and a smattering of rain - just enough to cover the decks in red Saharan dust...again.
Paddling out to the wreck stirred up the seagulls, who flew around the wreck squawking instead of taking off like they usually do as soon as we get near. We figured they must be nesting, which seemed confirmed when Colin saw them going at it with crows later in the day.
I thought it would be good to paddle to other side of the bay. Colin went along for the ride, but had taken note of the winds and knew we'd be against it going back. Hmmm, I do think he could have shared that information with me. He knows how unobservant I am. Anyway, I got a bit of accidental vigorous exercise instead of having a leisurely paddle. Never mind.
As there were more of those electric blue ‘things’ in the water (last seen in Dhókos) we called a learned friend in the hopes of getting an identification, but after much debate and internet searching we were no closer to having an answer. Colin scooped one up so we could try and get better photos. We did, but it was tricky to get the little blighter in focus. Alas, we are still in the dark as to what exactly it is.
My learned friend did enlighten us, however, to the hobby of 'black water diving', and the fact there are many interesting critters in the first meter of water in the Med. He strongly urged us to get in with a torch at night and light up the water to see some amazing things. Colin and I looked at each other, knowing how cold the water is during the day, and breathed a sigh of relief when we realised we didn’t have an underwater torch. Phew!
Wednesday was the first day that felt like warm enough for water sports, and I even managed to swim for more than a few seconds. Colin took advantage with a spot of windsurfing, and I rescued a massive sheet of plastic from ending up at the bottom of the ocean.
Click images to enlarge
Paddling out to the wreck stirred up the seagulls, who flew around the wreck squawking instead of taking off like they usually do as soon as we get near. We figured they must be nesting, which seemed confirmed when Colin saw them going at it with crows later in the day.
I thought it would be good to paddle to other side of the bay. Colin went along for the ride, but had taken note of the winds and knew we'd be against it going back. Hmmm, I do think he could have shared that information with me. He knows how unobservant I am. Anyway, I got a bit of accidental vigorous exercise instead of having a leisurely paddle. Never mind.
As there were more of those electric blue ‘things’ in the water (last seen in Dhókos) we called a learned friend in the hopes of getting an identification, but after much debate and internet searching we were no closer to having an answer. Colin scooped one up so we could try and get better photos. We did, but it was tricky to get the little blighter in focus. Alas, we are still in the dark as to what exactly it is.
My learned friend did enlighten us, however, to the hobby of 'black water diving', and the fact there are many interesting critters in the first meter of water in the Med. He strongly urged us to get in with a torch at night and light up the water to see some amazing things. Colin and I looked at each other, knowing how cold the water is during the day, and breathed a sigh of relief when we realised we didn’t have an underwater torch. Phew!
Wednesday was the first day that felt like warm enough for water sports, and I even managed to swim for more than a few seconds. Colin took advantage with a spot of windsurfing, and I rescued a massive sheet of plastic from ending up at the bottom of the ocean.
Click images to enlarge
The Sea Creature
Nísos Póros
Thursday May 18 - Friday 19 3nm, 45min
Anchored in 14m in Navy Bay
Thursday May 18 - Friday 19 3nm, 45min
Anchored in 14m in Navy Bay
Thursday morning was so glassy I could see fish breaking the surface. So could the seagulls, who swooped in for breakfast. We also had a lot of helicopter noise, not the kind of thing you would expect in these parts. We think it was spraying crops, not that we could see any along the shore, but there’s not much else it could have been doing with the specialised equipment it had on the front.
Returning to Poros by 1100 we checked out at the Port Authority then stocked up on food, gas, and dinghy motor fuel in preparation for an early departure Friday.
Afternoon entertainment was watching the ferry cut a path between us and another yacht anchored right in its path, after which they promptly weighed anchor and scarpered. On its relentless barrelling into the bay I swear it was going to take out the car ferry from Galatás, but I guess they're all trained professionals who know what they're doing. The people who were not trained professionals, however, were some folks in a rental dinghy who thought they could make it across the path of the ferry before it reached them. Since I wasn't really in the mood for carnage I'm glad they did, but it was touch and go.
In the evening we returned to another of our favourite restaurants, Taverna Rota. Christos, who we met last year, said hello and that he remembered us, probably because we were with the crews from Lulu and Feisty who were well known the island wide. I love the little complimentary dessert we are usually given after a meal. At Geia Mas it was a small glass of something akin to a slushy, either lemon or strawberry. Here is was a piece of galatópita, or milk pie.
After the meal, and in my best Greek, I asked one of the waiters for the bill. Colin was curious to see what he returned with, but fortunately it was the bill.
We were too full for ice cream at Véssala - unheard of!
Click images to enlarge
Returning to Poros by 1100 we checked out at the Port Authority then stocked up on food, gas, and dinghy motor fuel in preparation for an early departure Friday.
Afternoon entertainment was watching the ferry cut a path between us and another yacht anchored right in its path, after which they promptly weighed anchor and scarpered. On its relentless barrelling into the bay I swear it was going to take out the car ferry from Galatás, but I guess they're all trained professionals who know what they're doing. The people who were not trained professionals, however, were some folks in a rental dinghy who thought they could make it across the path of the ferry before it reached them. Since I wasn't really in the mood for carnage I'm glad they did, but it was touch and go.
In the evening we returned to another of our favourite restaurants, Taverna Rota. Christos, who we met last year, said hello and that he remembered us, probably because we were with the crews from Lulu and Feisty who were well known the island wide. I love the little complimentary dessert we are usually given after a meal. At Geia Mas it was a small glass of something akin to a slushy, either lemon or strawberry. Here is was a piece of galatópita, or milk pie.
After the meal, and in my best Greek, I asked one of the waiters for the bill. Colin was curious to see what he returned with, but fortunately it was the bill.
We were too full for ice cream at Véssala - unheard of!
Click images to enlarge