Turkey - The Lycian Coast: Kaş to Marmaris
Kaş 19nm, 4hrs, motored
Tuesday August 6 - Wednesday 7
Kaş Setur Marina ₺339 (~AUD$85) + water/electricity ₺30 (~AUD$7.50)
Tuesday August 6 - Wednesday 7
Kaş Setur Marina ₺339 (~AUD$85) + water/electricity ₺30 (~AUD$7.50)
Colin and I thought we’d have plenty of time to get to Kaş, empty the pooper, and moor up in the marina before Michele arrived around 1830 hours. However, her car trip from Dalaman airport was way faster than anticipated, and our poo pump took way longer as a motor boat which must have been all holding tank took about 45 minutes to pump out before we could do ours! We anchored just off the petrol and poo pump station and cooled off in the water whilst waiting. Self-service poo pump at no cost – gotta love that, but not if you don’t know how to operate it! Fortunately the petrol pump man showed Colin how. I got to hold the nozzle in place and check the clear plastic tube to see when ‘things’ had stopped flowing. It’s kinda like filling up with petrol but in reverse. I wanted to take a movie of the hose as it pulsated like a giant colon with each burst of suction. Very interesting.
Due to that delay we arrived only minutes before Michele, but in time to greet her as she said goodbye to her driver. Welcome aboard Michele!
After resting and swimming in the marina (and being busted by the staff in a dinghy) we headed out for a look at the old town and dinner at Smiley's Restaurant, which Colin said was recommended and had an historic cistern. Turns out we didn’t necessarily have to dine there to see that, but we enjoyed our meals, especially the interesting mix of mezes. What we didn’t enjoy was feeling like we were about to be run over all the time as the traffic passed very close.
The cistern was very cool, very VERY cool, which was a nice relief from the super hot heat. Originally used to store water the cistern dates back to the 5th century BC, and was used in more recent history to store wine, olive oil, vegetables and water. The amphorae on display were found during excavation.
Once again our grand plans to rise early the next morning and climb to the tombs was foiled by sleep ins and cups of tea. Ah well, we’re on holidays! After stocking up at a fresh produce shop in town Colin took the provisions back to the boat and cut Michele and I loose to get fish. A long while later we returned with a bit more than fish, confirming we cannot be left alone to shop. We’d had a delightful time though in the shop where Colin and I had bought carob pods, carob syrup and tahini last time we were in Kaş, intending only to buy the first of those items. The owner remembered me and I’m not sure who had more fun, him or us. Michele wanted some Turkish delight so we had tastings, MANY tastings, and he jammed so much Turkish delight in the box it was bulging at the sides! I thought he charged by the box (oh silly me) but he put it on the scales and I could hear the cash register sounding in my head…ka-ching! Lucky we'd settled for a small box. I bought more carob pods and had brought my own bag, another ‘ka-ching’ moment as he asked if I wanted it filled up (Why not? says I). And then there was the pomegranate tea. We knew at least to say no when he asked if we wanted saffron.
Staggering home with kilos of produce we congratulated ourselves that we had remembered to get the fish. Michele said at least he gave us a free bag and two soaps. Not quite free I said. No, not quite free.
Photos by Nic and Mic. Click images to enlarge
Due to that delay we arrived only minutes before Michele, but in time to greet her as she said goodbye to her driver. Welcome aboard Michele!
After resting and swimming in the marina (and being busted by the staff in a dinghy) we headed out for a look at the old town and dinner at Smiley's Restaurant, which Colin said was recommended and had an historic cistern. Turns out we didn’t necessarily have to dine there to see that, but we enjoyed our meals, especially the interesting mix of mezes. What we didn’t enjoy was feeling like we were about to be run over all the time as the traffic passed very close.
The cistern was very cool, very VERY cool, which was a nice relief from the super hot heat. Originally used to store water the cistern dates back to the 5th century BC, and was used in more recent history to store wine, olive oil, vegetables and water. The amphorae on display were found during excavation.
Once again our grand plans to rise early the next morning and climb to the tombs was foiled by sleep ins and cups of tea. Ah well, we’re on holidays! After stocking up at a fresh produce shop in town Colin took the provisions back to the boat and cut Michele and I loose to get fish. A long while later we returned with a bit more than fish, confirming we cannot be left alone to shop. We’d had a delightful time though in the shop where Colin and I had bought carob pods, carob syrup and tahini last time we were in Kaş, intending only to buy the first of those items. The owner remembered me and I’m not sure who had more fun, him or us. Michele wanted some Turkish delight so we had tastings, MANY tastings, and he jammed so much Turkish delight in the box it was bulging at the sides! I thought he charged by the box (oh silly me) but he put it on the scales and I could hear the cash register sounding in my head…ka-ching! Lucky we'd settled for a small box. I bought more carob pods and had brought my own bag, another ‘ka-ching’ moment as he asked if I wanted it filled up (Why not? says I). And then there was the pomegranate tea. We knew at least to say no when he asked if we wanted saffron.
Staggering home with kilos of produce we congratulated ourselves that we had remembered to get the fish. Michele said at least he gave us a free bag and two soaps. Not quite free I said. No, not quite free.
Photos by Nic and Mic. Click images to enlarge
Wharf Grafitti Wall
Bayındır Limanı 6nm, 1hr, motored
Wednesday August 7 - Thursday 8
Free anchorage, moored 'stern to'
Wednesday August 7 - Thursday 8
Free anchorage, moored 'stern to'
We were more than happy to leave the Kaş marina and nip around the peninsula again to Bayındır Limanı where we plunged ourselves in the cool, clear blue water. Prior to this privilege we had a spot of trouble mooring up when the stern rope got tangled whilst feeding out. Still new at the backing up thing I was trying to reverse and untangle the line and keep the boat straight and NOT PANIC. The stern drifted a little but we weren't really in danger of hitting anyone, and once the starboard stern line was on we had time to play around and straighten up and disaster was averted once again.
The bay was much busier than on our previous visit, but fortunately the majority of boats were day tours stopping for a swim before returning to Kaş. By evening there was just us and...guess who? The 'holding tank' boat. Close up it looked a bit dodgy with a bow like a panel beating job gone wrong. It reminded me of the stippled car roofs at home damaged in a major hail storm a few years ago.
Photos by Nic and Mic. Click images to enlarge
The bay was much busier than on our previous visit, but fortunately the majority of boats were day tours stopping for a swim before returning to Kaş. By evening there was just us and...guess who? The 'holding tank' boat. Close up it looked a bit dodgy with a bow like a panel beating job gone wrong. It reminded me of the stippled car roofs at home damaged in a major hail storm a few years ago.
Photos by Nic and Mic. Click images to enlarge
Yeşilköy Limanı (near Kalkan) 15nm, 3hrs, motored
Thursday August 8 - Saturday 10
Free anchorage
Stern to against the shore in the west side of the bay, 60m of chain out, anchor in sand, bow facing east
Thursday August 8 - Saturday 10
Free anchorage
Stern to against the shore in the west side of the bay, 60m of chain out, anchor in sand, bow facing east
Onwards to Yeşilköy Limanı, now known as 'Turtle Town' (as in Won't you take me to...). Now here's a funny thing: Here were two snorkellers in the middle of a popular anchorage, not a zoned off swimming area or beach but an anchorage, who could see us coming and refused to move. We continued proceedings to moor up, being careful not to take them out, but they were right in our line of passage and there weren't a lot of other options (popular bay remember). So the guy decides to abuse us and tell us there's someone snorkelling in front of us "Can you see her?" he says. " Yeah, can you tell her to get out of the way?" I replied. I didn't even swear...that time. He asked where we got our boat license. If I'd recognised his accent I would have said that country. Suffice it to say I was miffed, and quite creative with the things I coulda, shoulda, woulda said had I been a bit quicker off the mark. I did try to see from their point of view, truly I did, but I had verification from the captain and crew that a swimmer really should stay out of the way in a boat thoroughfare. Like der!
I wasn't going to let it ruin my day though, well not my whole day, and soon we started seeing turtles and all was forgiven.
The bay was very busy during the day as usual but by evening always cleared out. Both nights boats arrived late in the evening but were gone by dawn. We were told it would get crazy busy on the water after the beginning of the religious holiday, Kurban Bayramı (Feast of the Sacrifice) but we hadn't noticed anything yet. Perhaps everyone was still at home sacrificing their first born. Whatever the reason we enjoyed the peaceful evenings.
On the second day we went paddle boarding to check out the one small ruin, then went turtle spotting. They must be everywhere as we saw quite a few and swam with three towards evening. Another magical experience.
No bioluminescence to be seen, perhaps because of the brightness of the moon. I haven't been through enough moon cycles yet to test that theory, but there's still time.
On Saturday, whilst letting off the stern ropes to leave, I found the strangest thing - a seahorse! It was on the surface, obviously dead, and only a little over an inch long. I didn't know they were around these parts. Now I'll be on the lookout for a live one. I also saw a number of cute juvenile squid. Not big enough for a meal unfortunately. The turtles on the other hand...
Kurban Bayramı - Feast of the Sacrifice
Kurban Bayramı commemorates Ibrahim’s willingness to sacrifice his son Ishmael to show his faithfulness to Allah. In a nutshell...
Photos by Nic and Mic. Click images to enlarge
I wasn't going to let it ruin my day though, well not my whole day, and soon we started seeing turtles and all was forgiven.
The bay was very busy during the day as usual but by evening always cleared out. Both nights boats arrived late in the evening but were gone by dawn. We were told it would get crazy busy on the water after the beginning of the religious holiday, Kurban Bayramı (Feast of the Sacrifice) but we hadn't noticed anything yet. Perhaps everyone was still at home sacrificing their first born. Whatever the reason we enjoyed the peaceful evenings.
On the second day we went paddle boarding to check out the one small ruin, then went turtle spotting. They must be everywhere as we saw quite a few and swam with three towards evening. Another magical experience.
No bioluminescence to be seen, perhaps because of the brightness of the moon. I haven't been through enough moon cycles yet to test that theory, but there's still time.
On Saturday, whilst letting off the stern ropes to leave, I found the strangest thing - a seahorse! It was on the surface, obviously dead, and only a little over an inch long. I didn't know they were around these parts. Now I'll be on the lookout for a live one. I also saw a number of cute juvenile squid. Not big enough for a meal unfortunately. The turtles on the other hand...
Kurban Bayramı - Feast of the Sacrifice
Kurban Bayramı commemorates Ibrahim’s willingness to sacrifice his son Ishmael to show his faithfulness to Allah. In a nutshell...
- It takes place about 70 days after the end of Ramadan and lasts four and a half days. The festival’s eve (arife) is the half day to prepare for the four day festivities.
- The Sacrifice Festival is all about charity and community. During this holiday people are constantly on the move visiting family and friends. Family ties get strengthened and children are given an opportunity to bond with the older generations.
- A goat or sheep is sacrificed, sometimes even a bull or a camel. The meat is then given to the poor (both within Turkey and outside) and shared among family members and neighbours.Typically parents buy new outfits for their children and give the old clothes to the poor, and the children wear their new clothes throughout the festival.
- Traditionally, on the first day of the feast, men of each family go to a mosque for a special morning prayer then the sacrifice ritual begins. In some regions in Turkey people paint the sacrificial animal with henna and adorn it with ribbons. The butcher reads a prayer before slaughtering the animal. In a not so distant past (? last week? last year?) a butcher or the head of the family would perform the sacrifice in the garden or street. Today, such practices are prohibited by law and special mobile slaughter houses are installed throughout the city where trained butchers will kill, clean, and package the meat at the requests of the families (well that's so much better isn't it?). Other people prefer to just donate money to organisations and have animals slaughtered in their name. The organisation will also make sure the food is correctly distributed to the poor.
Photos by Nic and Mic. Click images to enlarge
Karacaören Bükü 29nm, 4hrs 45 min, motored and sailed
Saturday August 10 - Sunday 11
Mooring ball in exchange for dining at restaurant
Saturday August 10 - Sunday 11
Mooring ball in exchange for dining at restaurant
After a long sail we arrived at Karacaören Bükü, this time prepared to come in for dinner so there was no argument from the mooring guy. He was very sparing with his conversation last time we were here, the little we had to do with him, but this time we had further encounters and realised the paucity of conversation was due to grumpiness.
We arrived amidst massive pirate boats who had disgorged their passengers into the sea. Fortunately for us it was only a lunch stop for them.
The day was once again hot and humid and we fell into the soothing waters of the bay and swam until we felt cool. In the evening we were transported in silence to the restaurant by our still grumpy mooring man but warmly greeted by the other lovely staff. One of the waiters remembered us when I recounted how I’d taken his photo next to the bread oven. We had a great meal, Michele’s treat, and met some other cruising Aussies who were living in Instanbul. During the meal we saw grumpy mooring man coming towards us with a wheelbarrow of smoking, burning coals, and I mean right towards us. Michele and I both thought he was aiming to dump them over the balcony right next to our table of all places, but he was fumigating the area to keep wasps and mosquitoes away. Effective, possibly for more than just wasps and mosquitos?
Photos by Nic and Mic. Click images to enlarge
We arrived amidst massive pirate boats who had disgorged their passengers into the sea. Fortunately for us it was only a lunch stop for them.
The day was once again hot and humid and we fell into the soothing waters of the bay and swam until we felt cool. In the evening we were transported in silence to the restaurant by our still grumpy mooring man but warmly greeted by the other lovely staff. One of the waiters remembered us when I recounted how I’d taken his photo next to the bread oven. We had a great meal, Michele’s treat, and met some other cruising Aussies who were living in Instanbul. During the meal we saw grumpy mooring man coming towards us with a wheelbarrow of smoking, burning coals, and I mean right towards us. Michele and I both thought he was aiming to dump them over the balcony right next to our table of all places, but he was fumigating the area to keep wasps and mosquitoes away. Effective, possibly for more than just wasps and mosquitos?
Photos by Nic and Mic. Click images to enlarge
Fethiye via Gemiler Adası 30nm, hrs min, motored and sailed
Sunday August 11 - Tuesday 13
Ece Marina €70/night (~AUD$120)
Poo pump ₺20 (~AUD$5)
Sunday August 11 - Tuesday 13
Ece Marina €70/night (~AUD$120)
Poo pump ₺20 (~AUD$5)
Gemiler Adası (Gemiler Island) 1nm, 30 min, motored
Aiming to get to Gemiler Island early to beat the heat and the tourists we headed off at 0800hrs. It's hard to beat the heat when you're sweating before you get out of bed, but as for tourists we didn't see another soul.
Despite there being no water this 400 x 1000 metre island is scattered with 1500-year-old Byzantine ruins, including the remnants of four churches, a few early Fethiye homes, tombs, a graveyard and a cistern, but no public buildings, theatres, baths or agorae (public open spaces). Why? Possibly because it was the final resting place of St. Nicholas (original Bishop of Myra) making it a prime stop on the pilgrimage route to the Holy Land, Jerusalem. For centuries the island drew Christian pilgrims from all over the world who would stop and replenish their supplies and pray that the rest of their journey would be safe.
When the island was attacked by Arab pirates in 650AD St. Nicholas’s remains were moved to nearby Myra. The inhabitants of the island also abandoned the island around this time, retreating to nearby Kayakoy.
(From internet and other sources)
The official sign on the island reads as below:
Gemiler Island (St. Nicholas Island)
The island became a residential area during the early Byzantine Period. Some medieval sources claim that Saint Nicholas, known as Santa Claus, came here or lived here for some time which enhances the present prominence of the island.
Some sources name the region as Symbola. There are various religious buildings and numerous small houses on the island. Four large charges, many valued tombs, the corridor connecting churches No 3 and No 4, and the church No. 2 with frescoes dedicated to Saint Nicholas are among sights worth visiting.
From the early Byzantine Period until the 12th century A.D. the island was inhabited and was an important port of call, especially for vessels sailing from Italy and other western Mediterranean countries with pilgrims destined for the sacred lands in Palestine. The island was deemed significant also because of existing cults of certain saints.
Photos by Nic, Mic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
Aiming to get to Gemiler Island early to beat the heat and the tourists we headed off at 0800hrs. It's hard to beat the heat when you're sweating before you get out of bed, but as for tourists we didn't see another soul.
Despite there being no water this 400 x 1000 metre island is scattered with 1500-year-old Byzantine ruins, including the remnants of four churches, a few early Fethiye homes, tombs, a graveyard and a cistern, but no public buildings, theatres, baths or agorae (public open spaces). Why? Possibly because it was the final resting place of St. Nicholas (original Bishop of Myra) making it a prime stop on the pilgrimage route to the Holy Land, Jerusalem. For centuries the island drew Christian pilgrims from all over the world who would stop and replenish their supplies and pray that the rest of their journey would be safe.
When the island was attacked by Arab pirates in 650AD St. Nicholas’s remains were moved to nearby Myra. The inhabitants of the island also abandoned the island around this time, retreating to nearby Kayakoy.
(From internet and other sources)
The official sign on the island reads as below:
Gemiler Island (St. Nicholas Island)
The island became a residential area during the early Byzantine Period. Some medieval sources claim that Saint Nicholas, known as Santa Claus, came here or lived here for some time which enhances the present prominence of the island.
Some sources name the region as Symbola. There are various religious buildings and numerous small houses on the island. Four large charges, many valued tombs, the corridor connecting churches No 3 and No 4, and the church No. 2 with frescoes dedicated to Saint Nicholas are among sights worth visiting.
From the early Byzantine Period until the 12th century A.D. the island was inhabited and was an important port of call, especially for vessels sailing from Italy and other western Mediterranean countries with pilgrims destined for the sacred lands in Palestine. The island was deemed significant also because of existing cults of certain saints.
Photos by Nic, Mic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
Fethiye 15nm, 2hrs 50min, motored and sailed
After cooling off, rehydrating and snorkelling around the ruins we made tracks for Fethiye and Ece Marina, my favourite because they call me 'Captain' when I contact them by radio coming in. Now there's the respect I deserve!
Fethiye was for celebrating Michele's birthday, officially the 13th but why wait? On the 12th we started with breakfast near the markets followed by a Hammam (Turkish Bath), an afternoon lounge around the pool, a hike to the Crusader Fortress and tombs, then dinner at Mozaik Bahçe with fabulous food and the hottest, funkiest waiters shaking their snax as they served you. Michele and I wanted to take one home but Colin wasn't as keen.
Prior to leaving Fethiye we re-provisioned at the fresh markets and, thanks to Michele, on our way there made a new friend, Ali. Striding out in front she said something to me ending in 'darling' and the man in front of her snapped his head around thinking it was his lucky day! She explained she didn't mean him and he was understandably disappointed, but we got chatting and it turned out his brother lives and works near Fremantle. We exchanged numbers in the hope I might be able to arrange some Turkish language lessons.
An interesting thing about Fethiye is the number of motorbikes driving on the sidewalks, and not for insignificant distances either. In fact I nearly got taken out by one! Who knew you had to look out for them on the footpaths as well as the roads?!
Photos by Nic, Mic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
After cooling off, rehydrating and snorkelling around the ruins we made tracks for Fethiye and Ece Marina, my favourite because they call me 'Captain' when I contact them by radio coming in. Now there's the respect I deserve!
Fethiye was for celebrating Michele's birthday, officially the 13th but why wait? On the 12th we started with breakfast near the markets followed by a Hammam (Turkish Bath), an afternoon lounge around the pool, a hike to the Crusader Fortress and tombs, then dinner at Mozaik Bahçe with fabulous food and the hottest, funkiest waiters shaking their snax as they served you. Michele and I wanted to take one home but Colin wasn't as keen.
Prior to leaving Fethiye we re-provisioned at the fresh markets and, thanks to Michele, on our way there made a new friend, Ali. Striding out in front she said something to me ending in 'darling' and the man in front of her snapped his head around thinking it was his lucky day! She explained she didn't mean him and he was understandably disappointed, but we got chatting and it turned out his brother lives and works near Fremantle. We exchanged numbers in the hope I might be able to arrange some Turkish language lessons.
An interesting thing about Fethiye is the number of motorbikes driving on the sidewalks, and not for insignificant distances either. In fact I nearly got taken out by one! Who knew you had to look out for them on the footpaths as well as the roads?!
Photos by Nic, Mic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
Küçük Kargi Koyu 8nm, 1hr 50 min, motored
Tuesday August 13 - Wednesday 14
Free anchorage, tied back to shore stern to
Tuesday August 13 - Wednesday 14
Free anchorage, tied back to shore stern to
To complete the perfect birthday experience Michele got to witness the 'poo pump'. Not as impressive as the last one we did, but interesting none the less. Then on to Küçük Kargi Koyu which Michele promptly renamed "Birthday Bay". It was her favourite place so far and just got better when two birthday goats arrived on the nearby beach, mother and kid, and all but two boats departed leaving the bay peaceful and quiet but for the chirping of cicadas. The perfect birthday experience.
Photos by Nic and Mic. Click images to enlarge
Photos by Nic and Mic. Click images to enlarge
Ortisim Bükü (via Göcek) 7nm, 1hr 50min of motoring, 15min stop in Göcek
Wednesday August 14 - Thursday 15
Free anchorage, tied back to shore stern to
Wednesday August 14 - Thursday 15
Free anchorage, tied back to shore stern to
Leaving 'Perfect Birthday Goat Bay' we ventured forth on a mission to get more data. Ignoring the irony of having been in a Turkcell shop yesterday morning while Michele bought more data we anchored in Göcek and us girls held the fort while the Captain got data and, as requested, a treat - Baklava, and bloody good baklava at that! Onwards to the indented western coast of Skopea Limanı. Colin needed good internet coverage for a work call and Ortisim Bükü fit the bill. To our delight our gorgeous man with the Organic Sea Market boat was there when we arrived. He waited until we moored up then we bought those amazing bagels and some other bread and peaches and he gave us some baklava and a tomato gratis! It's nice to have friends he said. He didn't have any orange cake but promised some tomorrow. We said we'd be moving to another bay and found out he starts down in 22 Fathom Cove, with the bread still hot from the oven, and works his north. I then asked for his recommendation of bays and he told us his favourites. He said this bay is dirty because of the winds driving the boat rubbish in, and full of amateurs who don't know how to tie back, hence creating problems free anchoring around tied back boats. Naturally, in the spirit of having new names for bays, we called this "Amateur Bay", then amended it "Amateur Bitey Bay" after being 'bitten' or stung a couple of times in the water.
We had help mooring up from a man on the boat next to us who kindly offered. Though we didn't need help we graciously accepted, but I had to laugh when he came over in his dinghy and started bossing Colin around as to where to go. He did compliment me on my Turkish though when I said thank you very much, so I liked him.
Photos by Nic and Mic. Click images to enlarge
We had help mooring up from a man on the boat next to us who kindly offered. Though we didn't need help we graciously accepted, but I had to laugh when he came over in his dinghy and started bossing Colin around as to where to go. He did compliment me on my Turkish though when I said thank you very much, so I liked him.
Photos by Nic and Mic. Click images to enlarge
Sarsala Koyu (Sarsila) 7nm, 1hr 45min, motored slowly to make water
Thursday August 15 - Saturday 17
Free anchorage, tied back to shore stern to
Thursday August 15 - Saturday 17
Free anchorage, tied back to shore stern to
Our first cool morning in weeks...Hallelujah! Colin had a work call at 0730hrs and the MedNet at 0900hrs, and after that we slowly made our way to Sarsala Bay, which just begs to be called Sarsparilla Bay. It looked beautiful and we found ourselves a neat spot to back into. We waited a short while as a dinghy vacated the shore near the bollard we were planning to tie up to, then we turned around and started backing in. As we did this a Gület was powering in and seemed to bearing down right on us. It appears he was hammering to get into the spot we were already backing into! Not to let that stop him he proceeded to back in just the same, between us and the next boat, despite the fact we hadn’t finished mooring up. Without being tied on yet our stern drifted in the breeze, as it does, and towards the Gület. Michele put the fenders down and stood ready to push off, I stayed at the helm, and Colin was ashore tying on, and then an interesting thing happened. There was a guy in a dinghy helping the Gület moor, and it takes a special kind of stupid to wedge yourself between two boats drifting together but that's what he did. Then the people aboard got frantic about it and Michele relayed this to me. My concerned reply was “So? He will make a good fender.” Then they asked me to move and I said I couldn’t. I mean really people? You come in before we’re tied up and expect us to accommodate your idiotic yachtsmanship? I was ever so slightly irritated (can you tell?) and asked them if they owned the bollard and spot we were mooring in (a serious question, not sarcasm), but no, they just wanted to say hi to the friends in the boat on the other side of them. I huffed and puffed for a while afterwards (as is my wont) but then one man waved and put his hand on his heart in a gesture of apology and all was well with the world. I waved back with a thumbs up and a smile.
Friday shaped up okay. The scenery was beautiful, the water was clear, the bay was peaceful, and in the afternoon (drum roll please) the much anticipated Migros supermarket yacht arrived in the bay. We'd been dying to go on it as we'd heard much about it, so we jumped out of the water (after Colin finished helping a solo sailor moor up), put the motor on the dinghy and just got to it before it drifted out of the bay. I was so excited and bounced around taking photos and having a lovely time while Colin assumed his usual stance of complete boredom and intolerance. Not the biggest of shoppers, Colin. This 40m motor boat visits the bays and you can phone and get transported to and from to do your shopping. It has all the staples including fresh produce, charcoal for BBQs, alcohol, water, gas and fuel, and it took credit cards!
Unfortunately the evening brought new levels of thoughtlessness when a Gület blasted its unpleasant music for the whole bay to hear. It got so much the man on the boat next to us blew his horn several times, loudly! We think it was Michael Jackson that tipped him over the edge. They got the point, eventually, but just as they settled down the girls on the boat next to us started up with dancing a singing (badly) and filming themselves doing it. Colin saw a girl step up from the water onto the ladder and accept a tray of drinks which promptly ended up down her front, and that was early in the evening!
Next morning, around 0500hrs, Michele, Colin and I were thinking the same thing at the same time. Not 'There's so much water so close to home', but 'Wouldn't this be a great time for Colin to play the bagpipes!'. I thought the four girls drinking and creating all that noise 'til the wee small hours might at least show signs of sheepishness and a hangover but no, they all bounded off the boat into the water and started up their singing again as they departed the bay. The Gület dinghy drivers had already been revving around waking up the neighbourhood but soon also left.
Just as peace was restored it was time for us to leave. We'd been waiting for our Organic Sea Market man but to no avail, so when another mobile market man turned up we were unfaithful and bought simit (bagel-like rolls), village bread and the long awaited orange cake. Sorry Organic Deniz Market, next year.
Migros supermarket yacht
Date : 15 July 2016
Turkish retailer Migros has launched its ‘floating full-service store’, a 40 metre yacht called ‘Migros Deniz Market’ (Migros Sea Market).
Meeting the needs of coastal areas and other boats
Operating over the summer, the yacht aims to meet the needs of customers in the coastal areas of Fethiye and Göcek between 09:00 and 17:00 and the Fethiye harbour between 19:00 and 22:00.
The yacht offers a retail space of over 2,000 sq. m and stocks over 500 items, including fresh produce, meat, bakery and deli goods, as well as a range of non-food products. Products will be priced the same as those in other Migros stores, while the boat will also offer an ATM service.
Customers with their own boats can also gain access to the Migros yacht, with sailors will be able to track the location of the yacht, using applications that are common within this field.
Click images to enlarge
Friday shaped up okay. The scenery was beautiful, the water was clear, the bay was peaceful, and in the afternoon (drum roll please) the much anticipated Migros supermarket yacht arrived in the bay. We'd been dying to go on it as we'd heard much about it, so we jumped out of the water (after Colin finished helping a solo sailor moor up), put the motor on the dinghy and just got to it before it drifted out of the bay. I was so excited and bounced around taking photos and having a lovely time while Colin assumed his usual stance of complete boredom and intolerance. Not the biggest of shoppers, Colin. This 40m motor boat visits the bays and you can phone and get transported to and from to do your shopping. It has all the staples including fresh produce, charcoal for BBQs, alcohol, water, gas and fuel, and it took credit cards!
Unfortunately the evening brought new levels of thoughtlessness when a Gület blasted its unpleasant music for the whole bay to hear. It got so much the man on the boat next to us blew his horn several times, loudly! We think it was Michael Jackson that tipped him over the edge. They got the point, eventually, but just as they settled down the girls on the boat next to us started up with dancing a singing (badly) and filming themselves doing it. Colin saw a girl step up from the water onto the ladder and accept a tray of drinks which promptly ended up down her front, and that was early in the evening!
Next morning, around 0500hrs, Michele, Colin and I were thinking the same thing at the same time. Not 'There's so much water so close to home', but 'Wouldn't this be a great time for Colin to play the bagpipes!'. I thought the four girls drinking and creating all that noise 'til the wee small hours might at least show signs of sheepishness and a hangover but no, they all bounded off the boat into the water and started up their singing again as they departed the bay. The Gület dinghy drivers had already been revving around waking up the neighbourhood but soon also left.
Just as peace was restored it was time for us to leave. We'd been waiting for our Organic Sea Market man but to no avail, so when another mobile market man turned up we were unfaithful and bought simit (bagel-like rolls), village bread and the long awaited orange cake. Sorry Organic Deniz Market, next year.
Migros supermarket yacht
Date : 15 July 2016
Turkish retailer Migros has launched its ‘floating full-service store’, a 40 metre yacht called ‘Migros Deniz Market’ (Migros Sea Market).
Meeting the needs of coastal areas and other boats
Operating over the summer, the yacht aims to meet the needs of customers in the coastal areas of Fethiye and Göcek between 09:00 and 17:00 and the Fethiye harbour between 19:00 and 22:00.
The yacht offers a retail space of over 2,000 sq. m and stocks over 500 items, including fresh produce, meat, bakery and deli goods, as well as a range of non-food products. Products will be priced the same as those in other Migros stores, while the boat will also offer an ATM service.
Customers with their own boats can also gain access to the Migros yacht, with sailors will be able to track the location of the yacht, using applications that are common within this field.
Click images to enlarge
Küçük Kuyruk, aka Kargın Bükü (by the locals) and Perfect Goat Bay (by us) 5nm, 1hr 05min of motoring
Saturday August 17 - Monday 19
Free anchorage, tied back to shore stern to
Saturday August 17 - Monday 19
Free anchorage, tied back to shore stern to
Guest blog by Michele
Day 1:
I was promised Perfect Goat Bay and the farm at the top of the mountain (oh okay, hill) where they cook up gözleme from all their farm produce …more to come on that after a visit. Anyway PGB is quite small and can't take too many boats so there was going to be a fair amount of strategic planning from the captain to get us a spot (or, as he admitted, luck) and voila we got the perfect spot, in fact prime position in front of the beach. Nic jumped into the water to make sure we were not going to go over anyone's anchor (not the way to make new friends). Once we were tied back and had the anchor down and secure a guy on another boat shouts out and beckons Nic over. Turns out it was Nuri and his wife Bengi who they met first time they were here (ed. and who told them about the gözleme restaurant). They invite us over for Turkish coffee and a chat. Just before Colin and I joined the boat Nic noticed she had a peg still attached to her rashie which Nuri, being professional, had politely declined to comment on. Nic had pulled her rashie off the line in a hurry and dived in the water and swam around with the peg still attached. I was tempted to tell him it was an Australian tradition but decided honesty was the best policy. Nuri and Bengi told us a few fascinating facts. I asked him why I hadn't seen any gözlemes in Istanbul and asked was it more of a regional thing (admittedly I hadn't had much chance to venture further than Sultanahmet the main tourist area). Anyway no it's not. A lot of the reason they have gözleme in this area is there is plenty of wheat available in Anatolia and some people will make it for breakfast and others for lunch or dinner. Nuri suggested that maybe they were just too lazy in the tourist areas to make it... lots of rolling and folding to make the dough. He was joking of course and no offence to any Istanbul locals reading is. Anyway Nuri and his wife also turned out to be watching an Australian TV series called Harrow that we also liked.
Nuri gave Nic and Colin some great advice on keeping the boat over the winter season in Turkey (there are co-operatives you can do with fishermen and they keep the boat in a bay over the winter season and look after it for you), plus some of the difficulties and expense of sailing the boat to Istanbul at some future point.
PGB delivered with the goats pretty much straight away and some cuties came down to beach for a forage - they appeared to be nibbling at the lower branches of the olive tree. We lounged around a bit and read books and swam. When we were getting ready to head up the hill for a gözleme the captain decided the wind had picked up a bit too much to leave the boat on its own …we didn't fancy coming back to find it drifting ... so we just had to stay on board and eat cake (we'd bought some yummy cake early in the day from one of the small sea markets) and read some more. Gözleme for breakfast it is then.
Another little interesting thing Nuri told us was that there was a village near the farm and that most of the families that lived there had become involved in a well know restaurant near by that was quite expensive and were doing quite well with it But that the family who had the farm stuck to their traditional ways of growing their food and making goats milk, cheese and yoghurt for themselves and their restaurant and raising their chickens etc - still a lot of a hard labour and not as much money. But we kind of like that - well not that they don't make as much money, but that they are still subsistence farming. Before people came with boats they were just here living of the land and they were happy with their simple life
We have two nights in this bay and it's pure bliss – I never want to leave!
Day 2:
Today we trekked up the mountain. Okay it’s a hill, but it’s steep and there are some very slippery rocks (and I didn’t necessarily have the best shoes on for hiking ). We were heading for a Turkish breakfast at the farm which is about a 30 minute walk away. When we arrived we were greeted by a lovely old lady and two kids. We were served çay (Turkish tea) but it seemed like the ladies who cooked breakfast weren’t there and we weren’t in luck. We decided to head into the village near by because for some reason we thought there was a restaurant there. We were looking around the village, no sign of a restaurant and looking a little lost. A lovely man came out to help us and explained the restaurant was further away in the next bay, but he invited us in for tea. His wife made us some delicious sage tea with honey and we had a great chat. He is the local Imam and there are about 20 families living in the village. He and his family have goats and chickens and cute kittens. One clever cheeky goat breaks into the area around the house that is fenced off to eat the carob grass they've stored there - it has worked out how to open the gate. So all was not lost - made a new friend and discovered a new tea I like - silver linings.
Photos by Nic, Mic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
Day 1:
I was promised Perfect Goat Bay and the farm at the top of the mountain (oh okay, hill) where they cook up gözleme from all their farm produce …more to come on that after a visit. Anyway PGB is quite small and can't take too many boats so there was going to be a fair amount of strategic planning from the captain to get us a spot (or, as he admitted, luck) and voila we got the perfect spot, in fact prime position in front of the beach. Nic jumped into the water to make sure we were not going to go over anyone's anchor (not the way to make new friends). Once we were tied back and had the anchor down and secure a guy on another boat shouts out and beckons Nic over. Turns out it was Nuri and his wife Bengi who they met first time they were here (ed. and who told them about the gözleme restaurant). They invite us over for Turkish coffee and a chat. Just before Colin and I joined the boat Nic noticed she had a peg still attached to her rashie which Nuri, being professional, had politely declined to comment on. Nic had pulled her rashie off the line in a hurry and dived in the water and swam around with the peg still attached. I was tempted to tell him it was an Australian tradition but decided honesty was the best policy. Nuri and Bengi told us a few fascinating facts. I asked him why I hadn't seen any gözlemes in Istanbul and asked was it more of a regional thing (admittedly I hadn't had much chance to venture further than Sultanahmet the main tourist area). Anyway no it's not. A lot of the reason they have gözleme in this area is there is plenty of wheat available in Anatolia and some people will make it for breakfast and others for lunch or dinner. Nuri suggested that maybe they were just too lazy in the tourist areas to make it... lots of rolling and folding to make the dough. He was joking of course and no offence to any Istanbul locals reading is. Anyway Nuri and his wife also turned out to be watching an Australian TV series called Harrow that we also liked.
Nuri gave Nic and Colin some great advice on keeping the boat over the winter season in Turkey (there are co-operatives you can do with fishermen and they keep the boat in a bay over the winter season and look after it for you), plus some of the difficulties and expense of sailing the boat to Istanbul at some future point.
PGB delivered with the goats pretty much straight away and some cuties came down to beach for a forage - they appeared to be nibbling at the lower branches of the olive tree. We lounged around a bit and read books and swam. When we were getting ready to head up the hill for a gözleme the captain decided the wind had picked up a bit too much to leave the boat on its own …we didn't fancy coming back to find it drifting ... so we just had to stay on board and eat cake (we'd bought some yummy cake early in the day from one of the small sea markets) and read some more. Gözleme for breakfast it is then.
Another little interesting thing Nuri told us was that there was a village near the farm and that most of the families that lived there had become involved in a well know restaurant near by that was quite expensive and were doing quite well with it But that the family who had the farm stuck to their traditional ways of growing their food and making goats milk, cheese and yoghurt for themselves and their restaurant and raising their chickens etc - still a lot of a hard labour and not as much money. But we kind of like that - well not that they don't make as much money, but that they are still subsistence farming. Before people came with boats they were just here living of the land and they were happy with their simple life
We have two nights in this bay and it's pure bliss – I never want to leave!
Day 2:
Today we trekked up the mountain. Okay it’s a hill, but it’s steep and there are some very slippery rocks (and I didn’t necessarily have the best shoes on for hiking ). We were heading for a Turkish breakfast at the farm which is about a 30 minute walk away. When we arrived we were greeted by a lovely old lady and two kids. We were served çay (Turkish tea) but it seemed like the ladies who cooked breakfast weren’t there and we weren’t in luck. We decided to head into the village near by because for some reason we thought there was a restaurant there. We were looking around the village, no sign of a restaurant and looking a little lost. A lovely man came out to help us and explained the restaurant was further away in the next bay, but he invited us in for tea. His wife made us some delicious sage tea with honey and we had a great chat. He is the local Imam and there are about 20 families living in the village. He and his family have goats and chickens and cute kittens. One clever cheeky goat breaks into the area around the house that is fenced off to eat the carob grass they've stored there - it has worked out how to open the gate. So all was not lost - made a new friend and discovered a new tea I like - silver linings.
Photos by Nic, Mic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
Kargi Koyu (near Ekincik) 24nm, 4hrs 25 min, motored
Monday August 19 - Tuesday 20
Free anchorage
Monday August 19 - Tuesday 20
Free anchorage
As the only other yacht in the bay we debated whether to anchor or tie back and decided on the former. Although some swell entered the bay it was comfortable. An Italian motor boat anchored later in the evening and when Colin played his bagpipes we saw someone rush out in a dinghy closer to our boat. To listen? To figure out what was making the noise? A fan of bagpipes? We know not.
Marmaris Bay 20nm, 3hrs 35min, motored, some sail
Tuesday August 20 - Thursday 22
Netsel Marina (~AUD$130/night)
Poo pump ₺50 (~AUD$12.50)
Tuesday August 20 - Thursday 22
Netsel Marina (~AUD$130/night)
Poo pump ₺50 (~AUD$12.50)
After a much needed shower we took in the old town. Michele said one of the first things an internet search brings up on a town is where to take a selfie or have your photo taken, and it seems we found the spot for Marmaris. A narrow white cobbled street was chockablock with people posing for photos. Hard to fathom but it’s such a ‘thing’ now. After of course taking photos of ourselves we stopped for lemonade at the fairly new Tunnel cafe, run by a guy named Adnan who has much love for Australians (having been to Sydney three times working as a seaman) and ended up putting our picture on Instagram and not charging us for the drinks! He’d renovated the run down building himself over the past few years and just opened the cafe in May this year.
Our dinner restaurant was recommended to us by some cruising friends and did not disappoint. Situated on a corner, Memed Ocakbaşı has tables open to the street but shrouded in vines. It's very picturesque, and very busy! We were glad we had come by earlier and reserved, but as we were shown to our table there was a lady on the street trying to claim it by putting her handbag on it! It appeared she didn't want to take no for an answer, but our maître d’ stood firm and she had to take an inside table. Rather an amusing way of getting a good seat I thought. As the evening progressed a mix of interesting bird noises got louder. We thought they might be from children's whistles but they were in fact made by birds! As we left we saw a small bird in a cage and a parrot on a perch. There was also a pond with fish and two small long necked turtles. Interesting, though not that appealing to someone who would prefer they were in their natural habitat.
Wednesday, and Michele's last day with us, we returned to the bakery opposite Memed Ocakbaşı for breakfast and çay (we’d done our research last night and knew they’d have simit), then wandered into town for Turkish coffee. We saw Michele off as she caught a taxi to Dalaman airport, off on the next part of her adventure. Fare thee well sweet maiden. It's been fabulous fun sharing adventures with you in Turkey.
Colin and I rested and cleaned the boat, and I defrosted the fridge while he picked up the laundry and refilled a gas bottle. Not to waste huge chunks of ice I found a new way to cool off using a produce bag and the stern shower. Magnificently cool! For dinner we headed to a 250 year old stone house. I tried tavuklu mantı (Turkish ravioli with chicken) which looked like two large fried scrolls. Interesting!
Next morning we got a later than anticipated start (what’s new?) on our trip to the Marmaris Thursday Market. It was worth walking over 2kms and stopping three times for directions (third time lucky) to see this busy market selling locally produced fresh fruit, vegetables, flatbreads, cheese, meats, honey, herbs, sunflower heads, and many more exotic delicacies. Without much Turkish I came a cropper buying what I thought were grape tomatoes, only to get them home and find they were sour cherries. Oh well, good for the microbiome I’m sure.
After two more trips out for other provisions we were finally set to go. We had an interesting time at what we perceived to be the butcher's shop, though there was no meat on display. We asked if they had mince or steaks and they went next door to get someone who spoke English, who Colin then asked if they had pork chops!!! Doh! He instantly realised his mistake. It's hard to describe the look on the man's face when he patiently, and with some resignation, shook his head no. Anyway, we got mince and lamb chops that appeared from a refrigerated room out the back. Then in the Migros supermarket back at the marina the checkout lady was determined we should buy some meat patties because they were the store special and only ₺5. We politely declined twice but she was insistent, so with resignation I finally said 'neden olmasın' (why not) and she laughed and say yes, neden olmasın.
Just in case we needed a nudge on the bow to avoid other boats we called the marina for help leaving. It was a tight space.
Stopping for the poo pump and diesel we found something a bit questionable about the fuel station...again. When we filled up there on arrival they charged for 223 litres of fuel in a tank that only holds 200 litres and was already reading a quarter full. This time they changed for 133 litres when the tank was reading 3/4 full. Hmmm. I might put feelers out on cruising forums to see if anyone has experienced similar oddities. As my friend Pete would say, they’re honest but you gotta watch ‘em!
Photos by Nic and Mic. Click images to enlarge
Our dinner restaurant was recommended to us by some cruising friends and did not disappoint. Situated on a corner, Memed Ocakbaşı has tables open to the street but shrouded in vines. It's very picturesque, and very busy! We were glad we had come by earlier and reserved, but as we were shown to our table there was a lady on the street trying to claim it by putting her handbag on it! It appeared she didn't want to take no for an answer, but our maître d’ stood firm and she had to take an inside table. Rather an amusing way of getting a good seat I thought. As the evening progressed a mix of interesting bird noises got louder. We thought they might be from children's whistles but they were in fact made by birds! As we left we saw a small bird in a cage and a parrot on a perch. There was also a pond with fish and two small long necked turtles. Interesting, though not that appealing to someone who would prefer they were in their natural habitat.
Wednesday, and Michele's last day with us, we returned to the bakery opposite Memed Ocakbaşı for breakfast and çay (we’d done our research last night and knew they’d have simit), then wandered into town for Turkish coffee. We saw Michele off as she caught a taxi to Dalaman airport, off on the next part of her adventure. Fare thee well sweet maiden. It's been fabulous fun sharing adventures with you in Turkey.
Colin and I rested and cleaned the boat, and I defrosted the fridge while he picked up the laundry and refilled a gas bottle. Not to waste huge chunks of ice I found a new way to cool off using a produce bag and the stern shower. Magnificently cool! For dinner we headed to a 250 year old stone house. I tried tavuklu mantı (Turkish ravioli with chicken) which looked like two large fried scrolls. Interesting!
Next morning we got a later than anticipated start (what’s new?) on our trip to the Marmaris Thursday Market. It was worth walking over 2kms and stopping three times for directions (third time lucky) to see this busy market selling locally produced fresh fruit, vegetables, flatbreads, cheese, meats, honey, herbs, sunflower heads, and many more exotic delicacies. Without much Turkish I came a cropper buying what I thought were grape tomatoes, only to get them home and find they were sour cherries. Oh well, good for the microbiome I’m sure.
After two more trips out for other provisions we were finally set to go. We had an interesting time at what we perceived to be the butcher's shop, though there was no meat on display. We asked if they had mince or steaks and they went next door to get someone who spoke English, who Colin then asked if they had pork chops!!! Doh! He instantly realised his mistake. It's hard to describe the look on the man's face when he patiently, and with some resignation, shook his head no. Anyway, we got mince and lamb chops that appeared from a refrigerated room out the back. Then in the Migros supermarket back at the marina the checkout lady was determined we should buy some meat patties because they were the store special and only ₺5. We politely declined twice but she was insistent, so with resignation I finally said 'neden olmasın' (why not) and she laughed and say yes, neden olmasın.
Just in case we needed a nudge on the bow to avoid other boats we called the marina for help leaving. It was a tight space.
Stopping for the poo pump and diesel we found something a bit questionable about the fuel station...again. When we filled up there on arrival they charged for 223 litres of fuel in a tank that only holds 200 litres and was already reading a quarter full. This time they changed for 133 litres when the tank was reading 3/4 full. Hmmm. I might put feelers out on cruising forums to see if anyone has experienced similar oddities. As my friend Pete would say, they’re honest but you gotta watch ‘em!
Photos by Nic and Mic. Click images to enlarge