Turkey - The Lycian Coast: Karacaören Bükü to Kekova Roads
Gemiler Adası (Island) and surrounds
Karacaören Bükü 3.5nm, 3hrs 45min, sailed and motored
Thursday July 25 - Friday 26
Free mooring ball though expected to eat dinner at the restaurant. We promised to eat breakfast and were allowed... 'this time'
Thursday July 25 - Friday 26
Free mooring ball though expected to eat dinner at the restaurant. We promised to eat breakfast and were allowed... 'this time'
Our first stop south of Fethiye was this gorgeous bay with amazingly clear turquoise waters. In Croatia we were very used to people either requiring money for using a mooring ball or demanding you eat at their restaurant, but Colin heard you could go for breakfast here instead. However, when the dinghy approached and Colin said we'd come for breakfast the response was "Yes but you come for dinner also". Colin said we had food we had to cook (true) so we were let off the hook, "just this time". I really wanted to see the menu prices before I committed to dinner as we'd been stung in Croatia with extortionate restaurant prices for the use of a mooring ball, but at breakfast we saw the prices were very good, so dinner next time, no hesitation.
Breakfast in the morning was HUGE and delicious. Omelette, fresh bread and cheese, fried bread with sides of honey and plum jam, olives, freshly squeezed orange juice, and Turkish coffee and tea. I've been known to tie on a feedbag in my time but even I couldn't finish it!
We waddled out of the restaurant to try and find the chickens. I knew there must be dozens of them because we'd been hearing the "I laid an egg" noise continuously since daybreak. (No wonder they serve omelettes for breakfast). However we couldn't explore too far due to three large dogs guarding the livestock. We did have a look around the peninsula though and found some ruins and interesting plant life.
The bioluminescence in the water at night just gets better and better, with bigger sparkles that can been seen on your body momentarily when you exit the water. I'll never tire of this amazing gift of nature.
Photos by Nic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
Breakfast in the morning was HUGE and delicious. Omelette, fresh bread and cheese, fried bread with sides of honey and plum jam, olives, freshly squeezed orange juice, and Turkish coffee and tea. I've been known to tie on a feedbag in my time but even I couldn't finish it!
We waddled out of the restaurant to try and find the chickens. I knew there must be dozens of them because we'd been hearing the "I laid an egg" noise continuously since daybreak. (No wonder they serve omelettes for breakfast). However we couldn't explore too far due to three large dogs guarding the livestock. We did have a look around the peninsula though and found some ruins and interesting plant life.
The bioluminescence in the water at night just gets better and better, with bigger sparkles that can been seen on your body momentarily when you exit the water. I'll never tire of this amazing gift of nature.
Photos by Nic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
Beştaş Limanı 2.5nm, 1hr, motored slowly
Friday July 26 - Sunday 28
Free anchorage, though cost incurred with 'George' helping us moor up
Stern to against the shore with 60m of chain out, anchor in sand, bow facing west
Wasps (the harmless kind) and mosquitos ++
Friday July 26 - Sunday 28
Free anchorage, though cost incurred with 'George' helping us moor up
Stern to against the shore with 60m of chain out, anchor in sand, bow facing west
Wasps (the harmless kind) and mosquitos ++
Leaving Karacaören Bay we passed Gemiler Adası (Boat Island) and the ruins of four Byzantine churches plus many other buildings built between 300-500 AD. We could see several right at the water's edge as we passed. We will return!
Beştaş Limanı is a harbour to the north of Gemiler Adası with two miniature coves at the northern end. On the west side is Sogukso Limanı (Cold Water Bay) and an unnamed bay on the east side where we stayed. Some know it as 'George's Bay', and George, a seemingly harmless and nice Turkish man, offered to help us moor up. We knew we'd be paying for it somewhere along the line and that was fine. He then proceeded to tell us how many people know him and return to his bay, and the many services he had to offer including massage. I took him up on this and he returned to the boat around 1730hrs. We turned the galley table into a massage bed and he used our olive oil as the lubricant. By the end of it I smelled like a fried chip! Although I was on the lookout for anything untoward it all seemed relatively above board. He 'sat' on my legs and bum whilst massaging my shoulders and put my hand on a bulge in his shorts a couple of times, which I was relieved to find out was a big wad of cash in his pocket. The straddle position was bordering on inappropriate in most people's language (okay, everyone's language) but I felt reassured when he did the same thing to Colin after he’d finished my massage. (Imagine an interlocked lotus position, chests together, and he’s massaging my back and squeezing the air out of my lungs to elicit a few cracks). The weirdest thing of all though was that he sat with us for half an hour afterwards sharing a bag of potato chips (already opened) and Turkish tea from a thermos! When we declined a second cup he stayed and drank another three himself until the thermos was empty. We later found out from Wolfran that George had dined with him one night, and I wouldn’t be surprised if he'd been hoping for a dinner invitation from us too. All in all he charged ₺180 (~AUD$45) for the massage, a stale spinach pancake Colin bought for lunch, and the 'mooring fee'. Not too bad we thought, given the massage was well over an hour long, probably more like 90 minutes.
In addition to this borderline shady tale though, shortly after George turned up another George ('Captain George') anchored near us in a small runabout. George called out to him but he must have been otherwise occupied. Whie we were drinking tea though he reappeared and jumped naked into the water. Seconds later so did the woman he was otherwise occupied with! Apparently there's a lot of it about, and Wolf told us that our George, who has a wife and three daughters at home, was not adverse to a bit on the side. I thus have quite gone off George.
While I was having my lovely massage Colin was out in the bay collecting two bags worth of rubbish. We were very disappointed (disgusted actually) with the amount of trash in the bay. It seemed to be a collection point for it. That along with a lot of tree litter was very off-putting when we arrived and we decided to leave the next day, but in the morning the wind had blown everything out and the bay was beautiful so we stayed to enjoy it. We invited Wolfran, who turned up late the day before, to join us for dinner, and with a combined effort Colin and I made Ali Nazik and it was actually delicious. Wolfran brought rockmelon and baklava so between us we had a feast.
Click imaged to enlarge
Beştaş Limanı is a harbour to the north of Gemiler Adası with two miniature coves at the northern end. On the west side is Sogukso Limanı (Cold Water Bay) and an unnamed bay on the east side where we stayed. Some know it as 'George's Bay', and George, a seemingly harmless and nice Turkish man, offered to help us moor up. We knew we'd be paying for it somewhere along the line and that was fine. He then proceeded to tell us how many people know him and return to his bay, and the many services he had to offer including massage. I took him up on this and he returned to the boat around 1730hrs. We turned the galley table into a massage bed and he used our olive oil as the lubricant. By the end of it I smelled like a fried chip! Although I was on the lookout for anything untoward it all seemed relatively above board. He 'sat' on my legs and bum whilst massaging my shoulders and put my hand on a bulge in his shorts a couple of times, which I was relieved to find out was a big wad of cash in his pocket. The straddle position was bordering on inappropriate in most people's language (okay, everyone's language) but I felt reassured when he did the same thing to Colin after he’d finished my massage. (Imagine an interlocked lotus position, chests together, and he’s massaging my back and squeezing the air out of my lungs to elicit a few cracks). The weirdest thing of all though was that he sat with us for half an hour afterwards sharing a bag of potato chips (already opened) and Turkish tea from a thermos! When we declined a second cup he stayed and drank another three himself until the thermos was empty. We later found out from Wolfran that George had dined with him one night, and I wouldn’t be surprised if he'd been hoping for a dinner invitation from us too. All in all he charged ₺180 (~AUD$45) for the massage, a stale spinach pancake Colin bought for lunch, and the 'mooring fee'. Not too bad we thought, given the massage was well over an hour long, probably more like 90 minutes.
In addition to this borderline shady tale though, shortly after George turned up another George ('Captain George') anchored near us in a small runabout. George called out to him but he must have been otherwise occupied. Whie we were drinking tea though he reappeared and jumped naked into the water. Seconds later so did the woman he was otherwise occupied with! Apparently there's a lot of it about, and Wolf told us that our George, who has a wife and three daughters at home, was not adverse to a bit on the side. I thus have quite gone off George.
While I was having my lovely massage Colin was out in the bay collecting two bags worth of rubbish. We were very disappointed (disgusted actually) with the amount of trash in the bay. It seemed to be a collection point for it. That along with a lot of tree litter was very off-putting when we arrived and we decided to leave the next day, but in the morning the wind had blown everything out and the bay was beautiful so we stayed to enjoy it. We invited Wolfran, who turned up late the day before, to join us for dinner, and with a combined effort Colin and I made Ali Nazik and it was actually delicious. Wolfran brought rockmelon and baklava so between us we had a feast.
Click imaged to enlarge
Yeşilköy Limanı (near Kalkan) 31.5nm, 6hrs, motored
Sunday July 28 - Tuesday 30
Free anchorage
Stern to against the shore in the west side of the bay, 60m of chain out, anchor in sand, bow facing east
Sunday July 28 - Tuesday 30
Free anchorage
Stern to against the shore in the west side of the bay, 60m of chain out, anchor in sand, bow facing east
South to Kalkan, and the last long stretch until we have to head north again promised the Captain. We stopped twice en route to pick up floating toys, an inflatable donut and mat, then we retrieved a water noodle where we anchored. We don't know who lost them but we hope to give them to kids without such toys when we get to a town.
Wolfran had mentioned the bay just before the main town so we checked it out. Meanwhile he went on to the town harbour where he planned to hire a scooter and tour the nearby ruins. We liked the bay despite the number of gülets and other boats and thought we were in for a busy night, but by dusk they had all cleared out and we shared the large bay with only a couple of other yachts. Bliss! Better still, a turtle we'd seen earlier reappeared behind the boat and didn't seem in a particular hurry so I jumped in and swam with it. A while later I called Colin over to have a look and asked him to bring my fins. He brought them, had a quick look and returned to the boat, and I stayed for over half an hour more swimming with this graceful creature and duck diving to get photos. What a magnificent beast, and not the least bit bothered by my presence.
So nice we stayed two nights, and before leaving rowed over to another Aussie yacht and met Greg and Pauline and their daughter Jodie. They told us their horror story of trying to get a year long visa for Greece and the misinformation given by the embassy in Melbourne. When they tried to do the final step of the process in Greece, as advised by the embassy, they were shocked to find out it was nowhere near the final step and that they would be up for huge extra costs to make it happen, so they cut their losses and abandoned the mission. It seems the Greeks make it either extremely difficult or extremely expensive for you to stay more than three months in their country spending your tourist dollars. Go figure!
Click images to enlarge
Wolfran had mentioned the bay just before the main town so we checked it out. Meanwhile he went on to the town harbour where he planned to hire a scooter and tour the nearby ruins. We liked the bay despite the number of gülets and other boats and thought we were in for a busy night, but by dusk they had all cleared out and we shared the large bay with only a couple of other yachts. Bliss! Better still, a turtle we'd seen earlier reappeared behind the boat and didn't seem in a particular hurry so I jumped in and swam with it. A while later I called Colin over to have a look and asked him to bring my fins. He brought them, had a quick look and returned to the boat, and I stayed for over half an hour more swimming with this graceful creature and duck diving to get photos. What a magnificent beast, and not the least bit bothered by my presence.
So nice we stayed two nights, and before leaving rowed over to another Aussie yacht and met Greg and Pauline and their daughter Jodie. They told us their horror story of trying to get a year long visa for Greece and the misinformation given by the embassy in Melbourne. When they tried to do the final step of the process in Greece, as advised by the embassy, they were shocked to find out it was nowhere near the final step and that they would be up for huge extra costs to make it happen, so they cut their losses and abandoned the mission. It seems the Greeks make it either extremely difficult or extremely expensive for you to stay more than three months in their country spending your tourist dollars. Go figure!
Click images to enlarge
Kaş 14nm, 3hrs, motored
Tuesday July 30 - Wednesday July 31
Kaş Setur Marina ₺339 (~AUD$85) + water/electricity ₺30 (~AUD$7.50)
Tuesday July 30 - Wednesday July 31
Kaş Setur Marina ₺339 (~AUD$85) + water/electricity ₺30 (~AUD$7.50)
We were told by Greg and Pauline you could anchor outside the Kas marina but when we got there the small anchorage had very little space left and we didn't feel comfortable letting out only 40m of chain in 17m of water. I radioed the marina and they sent a dinghy to meet us and take a line for the bow. Meanwhile we’d heard another boat radio the marina demanding help on G Pontoon but they obviously didn’t wait for a response as when the marina asked the name of their boat they didn’t reply. The marina guys were setting us up to moor on G Pontoon, and like someone taking your parking spot you’ve been waiting for this other boat barged in and took our spot! Well I’ve seen it all now. I was having a ‘first world problem kind of day and this rather irritated me so I dropped a few expletives and vowed to ‘key’ their boat later. When we got to the office, however, there were domestic ducks on the lawn to greet us and all was forgiven.
It was rather warm (read ‘swelteringly hot’) so we cooled off under the hose, though I was happy to risk amoebic meningitis (or something else sinister) by swimming in the marina. The top layer of water was wonderfully icy cold so I figured there must be a fresh water source nearby. We ventured into town after 1800hrs when it had cooled somewhat and Colin immediately sought out a Turkcell internet shop. (He’d been without internet since earlier that day and it looked as if he might have die if he didn’t get reconnected soon). The Turkcell man’s initial response, seemed quite terse, but he turned out to be lovely and very helpful. While he was helping us a cat entered and waited patiently. He looked at it with such affection and I’d seen a bowl food in the back, so I asked if it belonged to him. He said the cats live in the street but the shop owners give them food. How sweet!
The old town was gorgeous but a bit overwhelming. We found the King’s Tomb and Colin enjoyed taking photos of people taking selfies in front of it. Everywhere we looked someone was posing in front of their phone. Such a strange phenomenon.
Rather than wrestle the crowds we returned to the marina restaurant to eat and were delighted to have a bit of entertainment from the ducks as they waddled past then ran back the other way, wings flapping, being chased by the duck bully.
Our plans to beat the heat and leave early for the rock tombs once again turned into a later departure, i.e. at 1000hrs and already hot. Now that I’ve mastered how to ask someone in Turkish if they speak English we were able to get directions from a nice man to get to the stairs leading to the tombs, then we made our ascent which involved a little low grade rock climbing. By the time we got the third tomb we were soaked through!
On our way back to town we stopped for coffee and a darling lady who spoke no English got us Turkish tea and coffee and directed us to sit under the big fans to cool off. This place definitely catered for locals, and amazing the tea, coffee and a bottle of water came to only ₺5, or around AUD$1.25!
Back in town we got a map from the tourist information place and found a shop selling carob pods for ₺30/kg! In Fethiye I had bought some at ₺200/kg. Of course they don’t advertise it as ₺200/kg, but ₺20 per 100g, hence I only bought 100g. While we were there we somehow also managed to buy carob syrup and tahini which we were told work beautifully together on toast, kinda like peanut paste and jam (aka peanut butter and jelly), and I can confirm this is true.
We limped back to the marina via the Hellenistic theatre and jumped straight in the water, even Colin who is far more cautious about swimming in marinas. He even put his head under so I expect him to get meningitis any minute. We couldn’t face traipsing back into town (lest we die of heat exhaustion) and had to re-provision from the marina supermarket where all fresh produce comes wrapped in plastic. Aaaaargh!
Before departing we gave the inflatable toys to the man running the marina shop. He had children who would enjoy them and was very thankful.
Photos by Nic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
It was rather warm (read ‘swelteringly hot’) so we cooled off under the hose, though I was happy to risk amoebic meningitis (or something else sinister) by swimming in the marina. The top layer of water was wonderfully icy cold so I figured there must be a fresh water source nearby. We ventured into town after 1800hrs when it had cooled somewhat and Colin immediately sought out a Turkcell internet shop. (He’d been without internet since earlier that day and it looked as if he might have die if he didn’t get reconnected soon). The Turkcell man’s initial response, seemed quite terse, but he turned out to be lovely and very helpful. While he was helping us a cat entered and waited patiently. He looked at it with such affection and I’d seen a bowl food in the back, so I asked if it belonged to him. He said the cats live in the street but the shop owners give them food. How sweet!
The old town was gorgeous but a bit overwhelming. We found the King’s Tomb and Colin enjoyed taking photos of people taking selfies in front of it. Everywhere we looked someone was posing in front of their phone. Such a strange phenomenon.
Rather than wrestle the crowds we returned to the marina restaurant to eat and were delighted to have a bit of entertainment from the ducks as they waddled past then ran back the other way, wings flapping, being chased by the duck bully.
Our plans to beat the heat and leave early for the rock tombs once again turned into a later departure, i.e. at 1000hrs and already hot. Now that I’ve mastered how to ask someone in Turkish if they speak English we were able to get directions from a nice man to get to the stairs leading to the tombs, then we made our ascent which involved a little low grade rock climbing. By the time we got the third tomb we were soaked through!
On our way back to town we stopped for coffee and a darling lady who spoke no English got us Turkish tea and coffee and directed us to sit under the big fans to cool off. This place definitely catered for locals, and amazing the tea, coffee and a bottle of water came to only ₺5, or around AUD$1.25!
Back in town we got a map from the tourist information place and found a shop selling carob pods for ₺30/kg! In Fethiye I had bought some at ₺200/kg. Of course they don’t advertise it as ₺200/kg, but ₺20 per 100g, hence I only bought 100g. While we were there we somehow also managed to buy carob syrup and tahini which we were told work beautifully together on toast, kinda like peanut paste and jam (aka peanut butter and jelly), and I can confirm this is true.
We limped back to the marina via the Hellenistic theatre and jumped straight in the water, even Colin who is far more cautious about swimming in marinas. He even put his head under so I expect him to get meningitis any minute. We couldn’t face traipsing back into town (lest we die of heat exhaustion) and had to re-provision from the marina supermarket where all fresh produce comes wrapped in plastic. Aaaaargh!
Before departing we gave the inflatable toys to the man running the marina shop. He had children who would enjoy them and was very thankful.
Photos by Nic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
Bayındır Limanı 7nm, 1hr, motored
Wednesday July 31 - Thursday August 1
Free anchorage, moored 'stern to'
Wednesday July 31 - Thursday August 1
Free anchorage, moored 'stern to'
The Turkish marinas allow you to stay until around 1800hrs, unlike Greece and Croatia where you had to be out by 12 or 1400hrs, and it wasn’t ‘til 1730 hours we headed off to Bayındır Limanı (Port Sevedo), a large bay in the southeast of Kaş Limanı where Wolfran had anchored. We had an interesting time mooring up. I’m practising backing and dropping the anchor via remote while Colin ties the stern ropes to shore, but while he struggled to get the chain over a rock the stern was drifting towards the boat on our port side. I could see the man in the water eyeing us so I assured him we would not hit his boat and that I was keeping a close watch. He was very nice and said he could see that. As I couldn’t confirm necessary action with the captain, who was still struggling on shore, I made an executive decision and motored forward. While checking the stern was okay the bow moved starboard so I engaged the bow thrusters to get it straight (love those bow thrusters) and motored back again whilst issuing instructions to Colin (oooh what a rare and treasured occasion) to attach to a rock on the starboard instead of port side so we wouldn’t drift again. He did, and all was well! I was pleased I handled the situation without panicking (or with just the teensiest bit of panic) and managed to right the boat.
What a gorgeous bay! Beautiful clear turquoise waters and very quiet. A place to return to for sure. Wolfran was keen to see Kaş so we joined him in a 1.5nm dinghy ride and dinner in town. We wandered the streets and found a tucked away restaurant, Zula Meyhane, with great food and service and very reasonably priced.
Next morning I thought I could slip in a quick nude swim before the gület next door got too active, but when I surfaced I saw Colin was putting his bathers on and the punters next door were hanging over the side with their cameras out! Not for me luckily, for a turtle.
Before leaving we swam over to Wolfran’s boat, Tanah Laut (Indonesian for sea home), to say goodbye and he invited us aboard for tea. He’s mastering the art of Turkish tea and is pretty good at it!
Click images to enlarge
What a gorgeous bay! Beautiful clear turquoise waters and very quiet. A place to return to for sure. Wolfran was keen to see Kaş so we joined him in a 1.5nm dinghy ride and dinner in town. We wandered the streets and found a tucked away restaurant, Zula Meyhane, with great food and service and very reasonably priced.
Next morning I thought I could slip in a quick nude swim before the gület next door got too active, but when I surfaced I saw Colin was putting his bathers on and the punters next door were hanging over the side with their cameras out! Not for me luckily, for a turtle.
Before leaving we swam over to Wolfran’s boat, Tanah Laut (Indonesian for sea home), to say goodbye and he invited us aboard for tea. He’s mastering the art of Turkish tea and is pretty good at it!
Click images to enlarge
Kekova Roads
Polemos Bükü 15nm, 3hrs, motored
Thursday August 1 - Saturday 3
Free anchorage
Thursday August 1 - Saturday 3
Free anchorage
Kaleköy and the Batık Şehır (Sunken City) of Kekova Island 3nm, 1hr, motored
Saturday August 3
Pontoon mooring for the price of lunch
Saturday August 3
Pontoon mooring for the price of lunch
The Batık Şehır (Sunken City) - Kekova Island
Saturday morning we left at 0730 to beat the swarm of Gülets and their multitude of passengers to the Batık Şehır (Sunken City) on Kekova Island. Arriving in Kaleköy around 0800hrs we were helped onto a restaurant pontoon with the promise of having lunch there, then we promptly headed to Kekova Island in the dinghy, less than a mile away. We were expecting amazing things, but none so amazing as a small boat of goats! There were a few on the bow but we were amused to see several more appear from a hold in the stern. Ww were much amused watching them move from one end of the boat to the other to get out of the captain’s way as he prepared to leave. This was shaping up to be a brilliant day already! Next we cruised up and down the island marvelling at the ruins both above and in the water. A local passed us as we were heading east and indicated we should head west, an indeed there was more fabulous stuff up that way - foundations of buildings, staircases, smashed amphorae. The city crumbled during a series of severe earthquakes in the 2nd century AD. What remains is the residential part of ancient Simena.
On returning to Kaleköy we snorkelled in the picturesque bay in which sits a sunken sarcophagus, then lunched at the restaurant as promised. Interestingly in Greece the menus declare if the seafood is fresh or frozen. No such luck here and I suspect my calamari was frozen as it was completely devoid of flavour, though I seasoned it with very generous amounts of garlic oil provided. I’m still burping garlic! A mooring, a mediocre lunch that didn’t break the bank, and a stunning view. Who’s gonna argue with that?!
Click images to enlarge
On returning to Kaleköy we snorkelled in the picturesque bay in which sits a sunken sarcophagus, then lunched at the restaurant as promised. Interestingly in Greece the menus declare if the seafood is fresh or frozen. No such luck here and I suspect my calamari was frozen as it was completely devoid of flavour, though I seasoned it with very generous amounts of garlic oil provided. I’m still burping garlic! A mooring, a mediocre lunch that didn’t break the bank, and a stunning view. Who’s gonna argue with that?!
Click images to enlarge
The Crusader Fortress - Kaleköy
Though we asked if we could stay the night we had to be off the pontoon by 1330hrs as a plethora of Gülets would be coming and going all afternoon getting drinks and ice-cream after touring the Sunken City. Happy to leave and anchor in Üçağız Bay around the corner where sits the quaint fishing and farming village of the same name that has been declared off limits to development. We settled in the western end anticipating a westerly blow (which never really amounted to anything), and Wolfran joined us in the evening. Waiting until it was a tad cooler (like only 40 instead of 45 degrees) Colin and I headed back to Kaleköy to tour the Crusader Fortress, within which is the world’s tiniest amphitheatre. From the top you could look out over a field of Lycian Tombs, which we then wandered through.
Üçağız Bay 1nm, 30min, motored
Saturday August 3 - Monday 5
Free anchorage
Saturday August 3 - Monday 5
Free anchorage
They used to say in Boston, “It’s not the heat, it’s the humidity!” but here we had both, and a sea the temperature of bath water! Fortunately for us there was a cold layer on top from a nearby spring, the only thing that saved us. As Aussies we’re pretty used to heat but this was something else. We were extremely grateful we installed fans in the cabins and saloon.
The green water hid a few turtles that popped their heads up periodically to our delight, and that evening we retuned to find a fish hanging out on the ladder, and not too keen to move on either. The other delight was the small fish that swam to and around you when you jumped in the water. Unfortunately I first experienced these when it was dark and I couldn’t see what they were. Something touched me and I let out an almighty yelp, not that anyone noticed, though it did echo around the whole bay. Just after that Wolfran came to visit and I couldn’t really get back on the boat as I was nude, so I had to just keep swimming with these occasional meetings with unknown critters. It wasn’t a short visit either. Cruisers always have so much to talk about!
In the morning the three of us had breakfast at Hassan’s Restaurant. Wolfran dined there the previous and Hassan, who is fluent in German, had promised him local information on spots to see and snorkel. Wolfran had floated the idea of the three of us sharing a private tour to visit the ruins in Myra but we all decided it was too hot for four hours in a non-air conditioned car, so we went snorkeling instead at the small island ruins in the bay. This was interesting, and Wolfran informed us the small square holes in the wall for for the ends of timbers when building. We’d been wondering! Best of all though was diving down into the cold depths then surfacing into the warm water. Such a great sensation. We also saw goats, a highlight for me of course!
Later we returned to walked to the sarcophagi, though we never really found a track. We did see a few in the car park though, and some funky looking chickens, and a tomb that looked like a great chook home! We had drinks to cool off at at Hassan’s and returned to the boat for dinner, but promised we’d be back for breakfast. They entice you over to park your dinghy at their restaurant so one feels somewhat obligated to spend money there.
True to our word we retuned in the morning for the same fabulous breakfast, and Hassan’s daughter, Burcu, told us how much they dislike the stream of tourists who disrupt their business but never support it, and how Turkish people from the cities demand produce that is not available because they only have what they grow locally. We love that all the produce is local and that the village is existing sustainably, but not everyone thinks that way. Some people want the testicles from an African elephant and if they can’t have it they won’t come back to your restaurant! The mezes and omelets Colin and I had were delicious, and with ayran (fermented yogurt drink), Turkish coffee and tea came to less that ₺40 each, or ~AUD$10. You couldn’t buy a bowl of muesli for that at home!
After breakfast Burcu helped us board the dinghy and we said our farewells until next year.
Lamenting that the water was warmer than the air we went in search of the fresh water spring after breakfast, and the source of the cold top layer of water. We took the dinghy and searched hard along the shore, finally finding what looked looked like a small stream of water between some rocks. We clambered up and found a small pool with bright green tinged rocks lining it, and oh my word, it was like dipping into a bucket of ice! Able to submerge only by crouching we took turns freezing our bodies to beat the heat. We explored a bit further into the bay but didn’t find any other promising looking pools, and the water was so silty I would bump into submerged rocks before I could see them, so we returned to the first spot and plunged again before returning to the boat. The water is super salty in Turkey, but this was fresh. Not enough to drink but enough not to sting your eyes.
Wolfran was right behind us returning to the boat. He'd gone off fishing and had one sea bream, but was embarrassed to say he'd caught nothing and a young boy who had caught 15 fish gave it to him. (We think his bait and tackle might have been slightly overpowered for the size of the fish). Colin said that's how we fish! It did happen to us quite a lot on our Kimberley trip.
Click images to enlarge
The green water hid a few turtles that popped their heads up periodically to our delight, and that evening we retuned to find a fish hanging out on the ladder, and not too keen to move on either. The other delight was the small fish that swam to and around you when you jumped in the water. Unfortunately I first experienced these when it was dark and I couldn’t see what they were. Something touched me and I let out an almighty yelp, not that anyone noticed, though it did echo around the whole bay. Just after that Wolfran came to visit and I couldn’t really get back on the boat as I was nude, so I had to just keep swimming with these occasional meetings with unknown critters. It wasn’t a short visit either. Cruisers always have so much to talk about!
In the morning the three of us had breakfast at Hassan’s Restaurant. Wolfran dined there the previous and Hassan, who is fluent in German, had promised him local information on spots to see and snorkel. Wolfran had floated the idea of the three of us sharing a private tour to visit the ruins in Myra but we all decided it was too hot for four hours in a non-air conditioned car, so we went snorkeling instead at the small island ruins in the bay. This was interesting, and Wolfran informed us the small square holes in the wall for for the ends of timbers when building. We’d been wondering! Best of all though was diving down into the cold depths then surfacing into the warm water. Such a great sensation. We also saw goats, a highlight for me of course!
Later we returned to walked to the sarcophagi, though we never really found a track. We did see a few in the car park though, and some funky looking chickens, and a tomb that looked like a great chook home! We had drinks to cool off at at Hassan’s and returned to the boat for dinner, but promised we’d be back for breakfast. They entice you over to park your dinghy at their restaurant so one feels somewhat obligated to spend money there.
True to our word we retuned in the morning for the same fabulous breakfast, and Hassan’s daughter, Burcu, told us how much they dislike the stream of tourists who disrupt their business but never support it, and how Turkish people from the cities demand produce that is not available because they only have what they grow locally. We love that all the produce is local and that the village is existing sustainably, but not everyone thinks that way. Some people want the testicles from an African elephant and if they can’t have it they won’t come back to your restaurant! The mezes and omelets Colin and I had were delicious, and with ayran (fermented yogurt drink), Turkish coffee and tea came to less that ₺40 each, or ~AUD$10. You couldn’t buy a bowl of muesli for that at home!
After breakfast Burcu helped us board the dinghy and we said our farewells until next year.
Lamenting that the water was warmer than the air we went in search of the fresh water spring after breakfast, and the source of the cold top layer of water. We took the dinghy and searched hard along the shore, finally finding what looked looked like a small stream of water between some rocks. We clambered up and found a small pool with bright green tinged rocks lining it, and oh my word, it was like dipping into a bucket of ice! Able to submerge only by crouching we took turns freezing our bodies to beat the heat. We explored a bit further into the bay but didn’t find any other promising looking pools, and the water was so silty I would bump into submerged rocks before I could see them, so we returned to the first spot and plunged again before returning to the boat. The water is super salty in Turkey, but this was fresh. Not enough to drink but enough not to sting your eyes.
Wolfran was right behind us returning to the boat. He'd gone off fishing and had one sea bream, but was embarrassed to say he'd caught nothing and a young boy who had caught 15 fish gave it to him. (We think his bait and tackle might have been slightly overpowered for the size of the fish). Colin said that's how we fish! It did happen to us quite a lot on our Kimberley trip.
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Karaloz Bay (Port Sant Stefano) 7nm, 1hr 45min, motored
Monday August 5 - Tuesday 6
Free, anchored stern to with 50m of chain out
Monday August 5 - Tuesday 6
Free, anchored stern to with 50m of chain out
Otherwise known to us as "Paradise Bay" because as Hassan was describing it to Wolfran in German that's the one word I picked up! And paradise it was. Cool, blue water after the warm green water was a real treat and we submerged ourselves in it until our bodies were back to a normal temperature. There were only a few boats when we arrived early afternoon but the bay filled quickly, and by the time Wolfran arrived he had to squeeze in between us and a big Gület.
In the water I swam amongst schools of small fish, like swarms of bees melding into different shapes as they glided effortlessly through the water, sometimes changing quickly chased by slightly larger fish. The really small fish remind me of iron filings, swimming along in random formation until an unseen magnet appears (usually a loud noise) and lines them all up. I sometimes see them above the water too, tiny silver dashes arching across the surface to escape some threat. I could watch these fish schools shifting shape for hours!
Click images to enlarge
In the water I swam amongst schools of small fish, like swarms of bees melding into different shapes as they glided effortlessly through the water, sometimes changing quickly chased by slightly larger fish. The really small fish remind me of iron filings, swimming along in random formation until an unseen magnet appears (usually a loud noise) and lines them all up. I sometimes see them above the water too, tiny silver dashes arching across the surface to escape some threat. I could watch these fish schools shifting shape for hours!
Click images to enlarge