Nísos Kefallínia (Cephalonia)
Órmos Lourtha 31.8nm, 5hrs 10min
Friday August 31 - Saturday September 1
Friday August 31 - Saturday September 1
Having navigated our way through treacherous rocks with me as lookout we had this clear, sandy anchorage to ourselves. It might have had something to do with the swell that rolled in all night, gentle though it was. There was a tiny ferry port adjoining the bay, but luckily the service to Zákinthos finished just after dark.
Órmos Argostoli 15nm, 3hrs
Saturday September 1 - Sunday 2
Saturday September 1 - Sunday 2
Thinking we were in a hurry to get to Argostoli to buy more internet data we left our lovely anchorage. Unfortunately we arrived to find the internet shop was shut 'til Monday (information we should have checked sooner!). The water didn't look super attractive, but we were hot and it was cool and, we discovered, full of turtles! Colin thought he saw a head pop up and sure enough we were soon seeing bodies pop up all over the place. Either that's one very fast critter or there's more than one turtle in this bay we thought. One surfaced right behind the boat but I was too busy gasping in awe to grab my camera.
Another town ravaged by the 1953 earthquake, Argostoli has a new though not altogether unappealing look. The waterfront and main street are all cafes and restaurants and bakeries (shame about that), and the main street has been 'pedestrianised'. We had a delicious meal at a little back street restaurant we found in the Lonely Planet guide (the Lamb Kleftiko was superb) then scoped out the shops and markets whilst indulging in new flavours of ice-cream.
What the town lacks in architectural appeal it makes up for in turtles, and the next morning we discovered the gorgeous creatures putting on a show along the waterfront. They swam back and forth unperturbed by gawping photographers. We even saw a couple of fights break out, between the turtles that is, over what I don't know. Seaweed, lichen, limelight?
Click images to enlarge
Another town ravaged by the 1953 earthquake, Argostoli has a new though not altogether unappealing look. The waterfront and main street are all cafes and restaurants and bakeries (shame about that), and the main street has been 'pedestrianised'. We had a delicious meal at a little back street restaurant we found in the Lonely Planet guide (the Lamb Kleftiko was superb) then scoped out the shops and markets whilst indulging in new flavours of ice-cream.
What the town lacks in architectural appeal it makes up for in turtles, and the next morning we discovered the gorgeous creatures putting on a show along the waterfront. They swam back and forth unperturbed by gawping photographers. We even saw a couple of fights break out, between the turtles that is, over what I don't know. Seaweed, lichen, limelight?
Click images to enlarge
Órmos Livadhi 6.6nm, 1hr 15min
Sunday September 2 - Monday 3
Sunday September 2 - Monday 3
We headed down to the end of Kólpos Argostoli (the Argostoli gulf) where we figured we'd be swimming in cleaner water, and had the place to ourselves with only one other small boat joining us late evening. Despite best intentions we got a later start back to Argostoli than planned and by the time we got to the Cosmote shop there were long lines. We waited in one only to be told we needed to wait in another (longer) line. Just yesterday, when an English guy was complaining about the complicated and lengthy port entry procedure, Colin was saying he couldn't understand why people mouthed off about the processes of another country, it is what it is and you might as well just smile and get on with it (even when your Port Authority man is exceedingly rude). Today, however, he wasn't quite so philosophical and I do believe he actually complained about the fact we were in a line of people paying their bills because it can't be done online and how there was only one man serving all these people plus dealing with people like us who want to discuss internet plans. Naturally I reminded him of his previous views about foreign processes. How could I not?
A mere hour later we were out of there with enough data for a few more weeks, and while I waited in line Colin had gone back to the Port Authority to get our transit log stamped. Today's fellow was apparently chatty and friendly!
Colin rushed me past the turtles saying a hundred photos of them was enough, though I didn't think so, and we did our food shopping and skedaddled. Again a later departure then intended but by 1300 hours we were on our way to Zakinthos.
Click images to enlarge
A mere hour later we were out of there with enough data for a few more weeks, and while I waited in line Colin had gone back to the Port Authority to get our transit log stamped. Today's fellow was apparently chatty and friendly!
Colin rushed me past the turtles saying a hundred photos of them was enough, though I didn't think so, and we did our food shopping and skedaddled. Again a later departure then intended but by 1300 hours we were on our way to Zakinthos.
Click images to enlarge
Nísos Zákinthos (or Zante Island)
Órmos Alikon (via Argostoli, Kefallonia) 33.8nm, 4hr 30min
Monday September 3 - Tuesday 4
Monday September 3 - Tuesday 4
Zakinthos, home of the last large colony of loggerhead turtles in Europe, and windiest place we've been!!! Not because it's Zakinthos though, just because it's windy. Salty sea dogs would say we had perfect sailing weather from Kefallonia to Zákinthos. Those of us on board who are not quite as salty found it rather choppy. We passed the Blue Caves at the tip of the island (we know it was them because of the big sign saying "Blue Caves") but didn't stop as we still needed to find a safe anchorage. This took a bit of exploration down the coast but we finally rested near Alikes, several miles south. Even though it was windy it was relatively calm, that is until the wind swung around and we had a side swell from around midnight onwards. Along with this the companionway creaked in unison with each roll, so loudly that it even kept Colin awake! This was fortunate for me because he got up and fixed it, by jamming a plastic bag in the side no less. It was a restless night, and morning for that matter until we weighed anchor at 0930 and headed south to find calmer waters.
Click images to enlarge
Click images to enlarge
Órmos Kerí 25nm, 4hr 30min
Tuesday September 4 - Friday 7
Tuesday September 4 - Friday 7
Another four and a half hours of choppy, rolling, motor-sailing 'til we ended up at the southernmost bay of the island, Kólpos Lagana, the most protected area on the island from the prevailing NW winds, and also the nesting ground of the endangered loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta). Sure enough we were greeted by a head popping up as we entered the bay. The whole Bay of Lagana is a national marine park divided into three sections, only one of which you can anchor in. Boat speeds are supposed to be limited to 6kns but there were many yobbos passing through at much greater speeds, as they do, creating waves for the anchored boats. What fun! They'd all disappeared by evening though and we had a restful night, no rock and rolling, and the wind even died down in the wee small hours.
It's easy to see why the books all describe Zákinthos as 'verdant'. It's certainly impressively lush and we enjoyed the contrast of the rolling green hills with the white cliffs.
As there was an awful lot of 'weather' around (as us yachties are wont to say) we decided it best to stay in Órmos Kerí until it settled, likely on Friday. Wednesday morning we had a visit from a yacht flying the Ocean Cruising Club burgee, as do we, a lovely American couple Brad and Ruth on a 60' Mystic. We chatted at the stern a while and made plans for later on. We found out they boldly sold their home to buy the Maltese registered yacht, Korsar, and have spent the last seven years cruising the Mediterranean, overwintering in places like Sicily. We had a great chat over a few drinks that evening and learned heaps about cruising in the Med, sanding cockpit tables, single side band radio reception and more!
The boys arranged a time the next day for Colin to try our single side band (SSB) radio, newly installed this season, and a funny thing happened. When he broadcast we heard what we thought was the anchor winch motor start up. Brad said this can happen, and suggested Colin turn off the breaker switch and try again. It continued to happen though, every time he broadcast. I was at the anchor and could hear the motor whirring though the chain wasn't moving. It didn't occur to me it might have been the bow thruster motor and not the anchor winch at all, which would have been impossible with the breaker switch off. We learned this from Brad later that evening when we again joined them, on their magnificent vessel this time, with another Aussie couple Wayne and Barbie from a 58' Hanse named Hope. We had a fabulous evening with them all with lots of cruising tales and laughter. As the subject of our boat name came up and Colin explained his Scottish heritage I dobbed him in to play the bagpipes when we returned to the boat, which he did beautifully and to much applause.
Click images to enlarge
It's easy to see why the books all describe Zákinthos as 'verdant'. It's certainly impressively lush and we enjoyed the contrast of the rolling green hills with the white cliffs.
As there was an awful lot of 'weather' around (as us yachties are wont to say) we decided it best to stay in Órmos Kerí until it settled, likely on Friday. Wednesday morning we had a visit from a yacht flying the Ocean Cruising Club burgee, as do we, a lovely American couple Brad and Ruth on a 60' Mystic. We chatted at the stern a while and made plans for later on. We found out they boldly sold their home to buy the Maltese registered yacht, Korsar, and have spent the last seven years cruising the Mediterranean, overwintering in places like Sicily. We had a great chat over a few drinks that evening and learned heaps about cruising in the Med, sanding cockpit tables, single side band radio reception and more!
The boys arranged a time the next day for Colin to try our single side band (SSB) radio, newly installed this season, and a funny thing happened. When he broadcast we heard what we thought was the anchor winch motor start up. Brad said this can happen, and suggested Colin turn off the breaker switch and try again. It continued to happen though, every time he broadcast. I was at the anchor and could hear the motor whirring though the chain wasn't moving. It didn't occur to me it might have been the bow thruster motor and not the anchor winch at all, which would have been impossible with the breaker switch off. We learned this from Brad later that evening when we again joined them, on their magnificent vessel this time, with another Aussie couple Wayne and Barbie from a 58' Hanse named Hope. We had a fabulous evening with them all with lots of cruising tales and laughter. As the subject of our boat name came up and Colin explained his Scottish heritage I dobbed him in to play the bagpipes when we returned to the boat, which he did beautifully and to much applause.
Click images to enlarge
Nísos Kefallínia (Cephalonia)
Órmos Lourtha via Shipwreck Bay, Zákinthos 39nm, 8hrs 15min (including stops for swimming)
Friday September 7 - Saturday 8
Friday September 7 - Saturday 8
Friday the wind stopped blowing as predicted and we made our way up the west coast past some of the most breathtakingly spectacular scenery I've seen. Green hills rolling down to sheer white cliffs with incredibly blue water below and caves indenting the coastline for miles. We stopped at a gorgeous bay and, not wanting to anchor, swam separately into our very own blue cave whilst one stayed at the helm.
We had thought to spend the night in Órmos Vroma but it looked extremely untenable, not just due to rocks, debris and chains on the bottom but also the amount of traffic zooming in and out of there. A shame because it was a gorgeous bay, but with that goes the heavy traffic, plus the fleet of day trip boats based there. With that decision made we set our sight on returning to Kefallonia via Shipwreck Bay, and as we got closer the boat traffic increased exponentially, climaxing (Colin's verb) at Shipwreck Bay with three massive ships, numerous tour boats, and a handful of yachts all vying for space in a stunning setting. Since we were there we figured we might as well drop anchor, launch the dinghy and have a look around, but as we zipped around the bay I watched Loch Fyne Lass lurching from side to side in the traffic swell and was SURE she was gonna tip over! We did a record fast run around then got out of there post haste, stopping to pull the dinghy up once we were well and truly clear of the place.
I took over 470 photos of this magnificent coast. Narrowing it down to the 42 below was a tough task.
Click images to enlarge
We had thought to spend the night in Órmos Vroma but it looked extremely untenable, not just due to rocks, debris and chains on the bottom but also the amount of traffic zooming in and out of there. A shame because it was a gorgeous bay, but with that goes the heavy traffic, plus the fleet of day trip boats based there. With that decision made we set our sight on returning to Kefallonia via Shipwreck Bay, and as we got closer the boat traffic increased exponentially, climaxing (Colin's verb) at Shipwreck Bay with three massive ships, numerous tour boats, and a handful of yachts all vying for space in a stunning setting. Since we were there we figured we might as well drop anchor, launch the dinghy and have a look around, but as we zipped around the bay I watched Loch Fyne Lass lurching from side to side in the traffic swell and was SURE she was gonna tip over! We did a record fast run around then got out of there post haste, stopping to pull the dinghy up once we were well and truly clear of the place.
I took over 470 photos of this magnificent coast. Narrowing it down to the 42 below was a tough task.
Click images to enlarge
Órmos Livadhi 20.5nm, 4hrs
Saturday September 8 - Sunday 9
Saturday September 8 - Sunday 9
After a peaceful night in Órmos Lourtha we set sail for Kólpos Argostoli where we would be picking up our next guests. We were motoring into a headwind when the Captain said "You know we really should be sailing", so we hoisted the jib and main and had a fantastic four hours tacking and jibing our way north. The lee clothes certainly came into their own as we did so!
Whilst in Lagana Bay Colin dropped the grill plate in the water whilst trying to screw it on. It was easy to retrieve though as the water was clear and not too deep. However when he dropped it in the murky waters of Órmos Livadhi there was no chance. Try though we might, both of us, that night and the next morning, with lung bursting dives to the bottom, you could barely see your hand in front of your face so unless you finned straight down to it you would never see it. Colin improvised with an over tray that night and we put 'fish grill' on the shopping list.
Click images to enlarge
Whilst in Lagana Bay Colin dropped the grill plate in the water whilst trying to screw it on. It was easy to retrieve though as the water was clear and not too deep. However when he dropped it in the murky waters of Órmos Livadhi there was no chance. Try though we might, both of us, that night and the next morning, with lung bursting dives to the bottom, you could barely see your hand in front of your face so unless you finned straight down to it you would never see it. Colin improvised with an over tray that night and we put 'fish grill' on the shopping list.
Click images to enlarge