Turkey - The Lycian Coast: Marmaris - Fethiye
Mamaris
Marmaris Bay 25nm, 4hrs 15 min, sailed and motored
Monday July 15 - Wednesday 17
Netsel Marina (~AUD$130/night)
Poo pump ₺50 (~AUD$12.50)
Monday July 15 - Wednesday 17
Netsel Marina (~AUD$130/night)
Poo pump ₺50 (~AUD$12.50)
Making an early exit from Rhodes we arrived in Marmaris, Turkey, by 1045hrs, close to on time to meet Uğur, our checkin agent. A ferry arrived just ahead of us so we waited on the boat while those people cleared customs, then Uğur took us in so an official could eyeball us and our passports. Uğur then took care of the rest while we went to the Netsel marina located immediately east of the old town. He met us there when he had completed the checkin process and given the necessary documents to the marina staff. All this for €145 which included port fees, transit log, blue card and agent fees. The blue card is a new thing for us. It gets swiped each time you have your toilet pumped out. A great strategy for boats not dumping their waste at sea, except it comes a little bit unstuck given there are only pump out stations at big town marinas and our tank only holds 80 litres. It doesn't take long to fill that between three people, just so you know.
We were enamoured with Turkey before we even got into Marmaris Bay, with a coastline of rolling mountains of green. Marmaris itself was also a delight, with it's picturesque old town and jazzed up new town touristy area. That first afternoon Colin and I succumbed to the fatigue of consecutive long days of travel and did very little other than get our internet sorted and eat dinner on the boat.
Tuesday our first guest, Jane, arrived from Akyaka where she'd been hanging out for two weeks. We let her settle in and rest a bit before dragging her out on a provisioning expedition. Other than supermarket stuff we found a shop with olives, cheese, and other delicacies. We bought something that looked like seaweed in a jar and the shop keeper said to mix it with olive oil, lemon and onion. The younger shop keeper was happy to help me with my Turkish exchange of "How are you?" and "Well thanks". Good to get some practise in and it came in handy the following day at a market when a bubbly, enthusiastic man at a market asked me how I was. We've been absolutely charmed with the warmth of the people we've so far encountered.
The three of us headed into town that evening to a restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet guide. When we entered a waiter guided us out the back to a bain marie, pointed at it and said "The menu". We all got mixed plates of delicious Turkish dishes and the staff were super friendly and a bit cheeky. We got tea after the meal and doused with a bit of lemon cleanser, like a moist towelette in a bottle, shaken mostly into our hands though Jane got a bit extra down her back as the bottle was passed out of the window next to her. Colin initially said 'no' thinking it was alcohol, though why someone would pour alcohol into your hands didn't make huge amounts of sense. A Turkish tradition perhaps?
Jane, knowledgeable about my European Pastry Tour, tasked me with finding us a floury treat, but I had not had time to do any research. We found a bakery on the way home so decided that would be the spot for some experimentation in the morning. We woke early(ish) to achieve this but I was disappointed (if not somewhat alarmed) at the choice of sweet pastries on offer. Headline: Posh Spice's European Pastry Tour cut abruptly short in Turkey". I had to settle for a pistachio biscuit and Turkish coffee, having discovered yesterday that iced coffees are nescafe and milk. Ick.
Following breakfast we finally, after two days in Marmaris, made it to the old town and Marmaris castle, and what a delight! Small though it is the traditional old part of Marmaris is absolutely enchanting. Every corner we turned was worthy of an 'ooh ahh', and photo of course, and with Jane as my model I snapped her looking enthralled around each new corner. Winding through the atmospheric lanes we made our way to the castle and took a quick tour (it's a small castle), taking in the magnificent views of the bay. Marmaris Castle was reconstructed by Süleyman the Magnificent during his expedition against Rhodes, and was the rallying point for 200,000 troops used to recapture Rhodes from the Knights Hospitaller.
It was also from Marmaris that Britain's Admiral Horatio Nelson organised his fleet for the attack on the French at Abukir in northern Egypt in 1798.
Click images to enlarge
We were enamoured with Turkey before we even got into Marmaris Bay, with a coastline of rolling mountains of green. Marmaris itself was also a delight, with it's picturesque old town and jazzed up new town touristy area. That first afternoon Colin and I succumbed to the fatigue of consecutive long days of travel and did very little other than get our internet sorted and eat dinner on the boat.
Tuesday our first guest, Jane, arrived from Akyaka where she'd been hanging out for two weeks. We let her settle in and rest a bit before dragging her out on a provisioning expedition. Other than supermarket stuff we found a shop with olives, cheese, and other delicacies. We bought something that looked like seaweed in a jar and the shop keeper said to mix it with olive oil, lemon and onion. The younger shop keeper was happy to help me with my Turkish exchange of "How are you?" and "Well thanks". Good to get some practise in and it came in handy the following day at a market when a bubbly, enthusiastic man at a market asked me how I was. We've been absolutely charmed with the warmth of the people we've so far encountered.
The three of us headed into town that evening to a restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet guide. When we entered a waiter guided us out the back to a bain marie, pointed at it and said "The menu". We all got mixed plates of delicious Turkish dishes and the staff were super friendly and a bit cheeky. We got tea after the meal and doused with a bit of lemon cleanser, like a moist towelette in a bottle, shaken mostly into our hands though Jane got a bit extra down her back as the bottle was passed out of the window next to her. Colin initially said 'no' thinking it was alcohol, though why someone would pour alcohol into your hands didn't make huge amounts of sense. A Turkish tradition perhaps?
Jane, knowledgeable about my European Pastry Tour, tasked me with finding us a floury treat, but I had not had time to do any research. We found a bakery on the way home so decided that would be the spot for some experimentation in the morning. We woke early(ish) to achieve this but I was disappointed (if not somewhat alarmed) at the choice of sweet pastries on offer. Headline: Posh Spice's European Pastry Tour cut abruptly short in Turkey". I had to settle for a pistachio biscuit and Turkish coffee, having discovered yesterday that iced coffees are nescafe and milk. Ick.
Following breakfast we finally, after two days in Marmaris, made it to the old town and Marmaris castle, and what a delight! Small though it is the traditional old part of Marmaris is absolutely enchanting. Every corner we turned was worthy of an 'ooh ahh', and photo of course, and with Jane as my model I snapped her looking enthralled around each new corner. Winding through the atmospheric lanes we made our way to the castle and took a quick tour (it's a small castle), taking in the magnificent views of the bay. Marmaris Castle was reconstructed by Süleyman the Magnificent during his expedition against Rhodes, and was the rallying point for 200,000 troops used to recapture Rhodes from the Knights Hospitaller.
It was also from Marmaris that Britain's Admiral Horatio Nelson organised his fleet for the attack on the French at Abukir in northern Egypt in 1798.
Click images to enlarge
Kargi Koyu (near Ekincik) 21nm, 3hrs 30 min, motor sailed
Wednesday July 17 - Friday 19
Free anchorage
Wednesday July 17 - Friday 19
Free anchorage
Happy to leave the hubbub and party life of Marmaris we headed east to the first reasonable anchorage we could find, and very reasonable it was indeed! With only three other boats in the bay (one of which soon departed) we found a place to drop the pick at the southern end with the least amount of swell, and had barely settled in with a cup of tea when the lightening and thunder began. Colin started the motor to be on standby as we've experienced storms in Croatia and Greece where the wind whips up to 50kns in an instant, but this one just brought a sound and light show and hours of rain. Luckily Jane loves a good storm as much as we do.
Thursday the other three boats cleared off early and we had the bay to ourselves for a short while, until the gulets started arriving (traditionally designed two- or three-masted wooden sailing vessels from the southwestern coast of Turkey, though also found elsewhere in the Mediterranean). By nightfall there were six Gülets, us and a motor boat in the bay, but all very quiet
Click images to enlarge
Thursday the other three boats cleared off early and we had the bay to ourselves for a short while, until the gulets started arriving (traditionally designed two- or three-masted wooden sailing vessels from the southwestern coast of Turkey, though also found elsewhere in the Mediterranean). By nightfall there were six Gülets, us and a motor boat in the bay, but all very quiet
Click images to enlarge
Fethiye Körfezi (Gulf)On the western side of the Fethiye Gulf is Skopea Limanī. This much indented gulf is protected by a chain of islands on its eastern side and is chock full of anchorages. As you can see from the chart plotter (right) it's also chock full of boats, and they're just the ones identifiable on AIS!!
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Küçük Kuyruk 24nm, 3hrs 30 min, motored
Friday July 19 - Sunday 21
Free anchorage
Friday July 19 - Sunday 21
Free anchorage
Also named 'Perfect Goat Bay' by Jane, this was our new favourite place! Not just because of the magic turquoise waters but because there were so many goats! When we first arrived we moored stern to against the rocks between two other boats, and once the gulet of day trippers left there was just the three of us for the night. The water behind the boat had a yellow surface layer of pollen that had washed down during the big rain. I didn't find swimming in it all that appealing, though I'm sure pollen is good for your hair and skin, but in the evening the wind blew it all out leaving clear blue water. We saw goats morning, noon and night, traipsing through the bush, bells ringing, and coming down to the beach to lick salt and nibble trees. I took around 300 photos of them in various poses, which made for some arduous culling.
Saturday morning as the Turkish boat prepared to leave the young captain swam over to me and Jane on the beach and gave us some local info including a farm house you could hike to that served gözleme. Colin was dubious about the directions but Jane and I reckoned we had it sussed. Unfortunately poor Jane managed to fall on a door handle (tricky at best) and got herself a massive painful bruise that she decided to nurse rather than risk walking on treacherous terrain. We missed her, but we gained a third party in Wolfran, our German neighbour who was sailing alone and happy to join our quest for the hillside gözleme. He was even more dubious than Colin about our instructions (follow the track to the edge of the wood, take the wide path to the right until you come to some dwellings, it's the second house), and imagined I was going to knock on someone's door and ask them to make me dinner. He wanted to know just how I was going to ask this in Turkish so I replied "Merhaba (hello). Gözleme?" Seemed reasonable to me.
The directions would have been fine if there'd been a path to turn right onto at the edge of the wood, so we turned left and walked through an olive grove, patted some donkeys, then found said path at the edge of the grove. It led to a couple of dwellings so we walked up the gravel road to the one running a generator and low and behold, there we found a ramshackle farmhouse with children wringing out laundry on the verandah and a couple of women around a wood fired oven. Wolfran asked if it was a restaurant and they pointed up the hill a hundred metres away where there were two tables and chairs and a square gazebo overlooking a bay. Set up next to this was a table, fridge and domed gas cooktop. We ordered gözlemes and ayran (fermented goat yogurt drinks). I was in heaven with chickens and chicks of all shapes sizes running every which way, nesting in a tractor and under a wheelbarrow, having dust baths and perching against fences. There were also yards with sheep and kids, and a free ranging goat that happily barged its way through a flock of chooks as if they weren’t there. Farm bliss!
Jane somehow found out Wolfran is a doctor and suggested perhaps he could take a look at her bruised derrière. I thought she was joking but as we approached the boat on our return I asked her and she said that would be great. At this point Wolfran declared he was an ENT doctor and usually dealt with the other end but was happy to take a look. He gave it the stamp of approval ("Your haematoma looks fine but your breath smells", dubbed Colin) and said there wasn't much that could be done. Reassuring at least.
Joy of joys we found carob trees on our walk through the woods and picked up enough to last a month! I’ve been trying to get them everywhere since we left Croatia and here they were falling off the trees. We’ve noticed that carob syrup in a common item in Turkey.
Photos by Nic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
Saturday morning as the Turkish boat prepared to leave the young captain swam over to me and Jane on the beach and gave us some local info including a farm house you could hike to that served gözleme. Colin was dubious about the directions but Jane and I reckoned we had it sussed. Unfortunately poor Jane managed to fall on a door handle (tricky at best) and got herself a massive painful bruise that she decided to nurse rather than risk walking on treacherous terrain. We missed her, but we gained a third party in Wolfran, our German neighbour who was sailing alone and happy to join our quest for the hillside gözleme. He was even more dubious than Colin about our instructions (follow the track to the edge of the wood, take the wide path to the right until you come to some dwellings, it's the second house), and imagined I was going to knock on someone's door and ask them to make me dinner. He wanted to know just how I was going to ask this in Turkish so I replied "Merhaba (hello). Gözleme?" Seemed reasonable to me.
The directions would have been fine if there'd been a path to turn right onto at the edge of the wood, so we turned left and walked through an olive grove, patted some donkeys, then found said path at the edge of the grove. It led to a couple of dwellings so we walked up the gravel road to the one running a generator and low and behold, there we found a ramshackle farmhouse with children wringing out laundry on the verandah and a couple of women around a wood fired oven. Wolfran asked if it was a restaurant and they pointed up the hill a hundred metres away where there were two tables and chairs and a square gazebo overlooking a bay. Set up next to this was a table, fridge and domed gas cooktop. We ordered gözlemes and ayran (fermented goat yogurt drinks). I was in heaven with chickens and chicks of all shapes sizes running every which way, nesting in a tractor and under a wheelbarrow, having dust baths and perching against fences. There were also yards with sheep and kids, and a free ranging goat that happily barged its way through a flock of chooks as if they weren’t there. Farm bliss!
Jane somehow found out Wolfran is a doctor and suggested perhaps he could take a look at her bruised derrière. I thought she was joking but as we approached the boat on our return I asked her and she said that would be great. At this point Wolfran declared he was an ENT doctor and usually dealt with the other end but was happy to take a look. He gave it the stamp of approval ("Your haematoma looks fine but your breath smells", dubbed Colin) and said there wasn't much that could be done. Reassuring at least.
Joy of joys we found carob trees on our walk through the woods and picked up enough to last a month! I’ve been trying to get them everywhere since we left Croatia and here they were falling off the trees. We’ve noticed that carob syrup in a common item in Turkey.
Photos by Nic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
Göbün Koyu (Kapi Creek) 2.5nm, 1hr, motored
Sunday July 21 - Monday 22
Free mooring on the pier (though expected to eat at the restaurant)
Sunday July 21 - Monday 22
Free mooring on the pier (though expected to eat at the restaurant)
Next up Kapi Creek, renamed 'Erection Bay' by Jane. Colin and I knew it would be crowded but Jane was a bit gobsmacked at the amount of people and the setup of such a place. Fender to fender yachts along the pier and lots of boats 'stern to' around the bay. A seemingly lovely man, Mehmet, helped us moor up to the pier and said he’d book us a balcony table for dinner, but when Jane went to the restaurant for tea a bit later Mehmet came on hot and heavy with lots of gratuitous body contact, shoulder massage, hand kissing, and possibly a more 'pressing' matter which he rubbed against her arm as he left. He even invited her to drink wine with him after dinner. Ick. Later he walked onto the boat with a manic grin and toasted us with his Turkish tea. Bit weird. At dinner, however, he did a complete 180 and pretty much gave us the cold shoulder, interacting as little as possible but doing the whole 'love up' routine with other customers. When pulling our bill from his pocket a pill fell out and I did wonder if he'd perhaps been a bit high earlier in the day. Whatever the reason for the change it was rather off-putting.
Not long after we arrived we saw the 'organic sea market' boat. We waved him over and bought baklava and amazingly delicious bagels with sesame seeds and a touch of sweetness on the bottom. The following day I flagged him down whilst swimming at the beach to buy more, and he threw in a few extras as repeat customers. Later a larger 'supermarket' boat arrived. Such interesting ways of trading in the bays. There's also an 'ice-cream' boat that we've been visited by in a couple of bays.
Mid-afternoon we had a visitor, a sweet little pooch who decided our boat looked good and came aboard! His owner was trying to call him back but we were fussing over him and he clearly didn't want to walk back down the gangplank. Colin eventually had to carry him off while his owner apologised profusely.
For such a busy place the night was incredibly quiet, once our neighbour turned his generator off that is, and we slept to the sound of crickets. Next morning we took a stroll behind the restaurant and up a path that would have led to the hilltop restaurant had we followed it, but it was too hot for that. We found chickens and more goats though, and joy of joys Jane and I heard a goat fart! Very few people believe me when I say I heard a goat fart in Pera Pigadhi in Greece ('Are you sure it was a goat?' they ask) but now I have another witness! It's the little things in life...
Click images to enlarge
Not long after we arrived we saw the 'organic sea market' boat. We waved him over and bought baklava and amazingly delicious bagels with sesame seeds and a touch of sweetness on the bottom. The following day I flagged him down whilst swimming at the beach to buy more, and he threw in a few extras as repeat customers. Later a larger 'supermarket' boat arrived. Such interesting ways of trading in the bays. There's also an 'ice-cream' boat that we've been visited by in a couple of bays.
Mid-afternoon we had a visitor, a sweet little pooch who decided our boat looked good and came aboard! His owner was trying to call him back but we were fussing over him and he clearly didn't want to walk back down the gangplank. Colin eventually had to carry him off while his owner apologised profusely.
For such a busy place the night was incredibly quiet, once our neighbour turned his generator off that is, and we slept to the sound of crickets. Next morning we took a stroll behind the restaurant and up a path that would have led to the hilltop restaurant had we followed it, but it was too hot for that. We found chickens and more goats though, and joy of joys Jane and I heard a goat fart! Very few people believe me when I say I heard a goat fart in Pera Pigadhi in Greece ('Are you sure it was a goat?' they ask) but now I have another witness! It's the little things in life...
Click images to enlarge
Tasyaka (Tomb Bay) 3.5nm, 2hrs, motored
Monday July 22 - Tuesday 23
Free mooring 'stern to' against the shore
Mosquitos ++
Monday July 22 - Tuesday 23
Free mooring 'stern to' against the shore
Mosquitos ++
Leaving the distasteful Mehmet and the busy Kapi Creek behind we headed for Tomb Bay known for, you guessed it, tombs! It was a short hike up the hillside to see them and on the way we found two carob trees laden with fruit! This trip I brought my own bag so I didn't have to keep stuffing the pods into Colin's backpack. What joy to find such a treat, and clearly not being harvested by anyone.
Wolfran joined us in the bay in the afternoon, and while Colin was helping him moor up a turtle surfaced between the boats! Wolfran's comment was "Turtle soup", so later when he went spear fishing I warned him, no turtles!! He of course took notice, me being such a threat and all.
In the evening the four of us dined at one of the two restaurants, booked earlier by the boys while they were out paddle boarding. The first restaurant was fully booked with 120 Russians on 20 boats but we were delighted with the second choice. You couldn't find a more lovely setting or friendlier staff, and the welcome mat came with a dog. Jane and I tried a dish called Ali Nazik, smoked eggplant topped with yogurt and spicy mince. It was delicious! But even better was the dessert, which we had first tried in Kapi Creek. Melted Halva! Seriously sweet but Jane and I had no problem with that. We might have eaten some of the boys' portion as we all shared one. It's certainly possible.
Photos by Nic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
Wolfran joined us in the bay in the afternoon, and while Colin was helping him moor up a turtle surfaced between the boats! Wolfran's comment was "Turtle soup", so later when he went spear fishing I warned him, no turtles!! He of course took notice, me being such a threat and all.
In the evening the four of us dined at one of the two restaurants, booked earlier by the boys while they were out paddle boarding. The first restaurant was fully booked with 120 Russians on 20 boats but we were delighted with the second choice. You couldn't find a more lovely setting or friendlier staff, and the welcome mat came with a dog. Jane and I tried a dish called Ali Nazik, smoked eggplant topped with yogurt and spicy mince. It was delicious! But even better was the dessert, which we had first tried in Kapi Creek. Melted Halva! Seriously sweet but Jane and I had no problem with that. We might have eaten some of the boys' portion as we all shared one. It's certainly possible.
Photos by Nic and Colin. Click images to enlarge
Arriving in Fethiye the wind was up and it looked much easier for all concerned to go into the marina, especially as Jane was disembarking here. We had lots of help from the marina staff to moor up, and a first for me as the end of the bow line was attached to a buoy and passed to me on the bow by the guy in the dinghy. I had to pull up the slack but it was still the easiest way yet! Not only was it a breeze getting in but we were greeted by a turtle! Very special.
Jane and I had looked at some accommodation options for her and settled on the three star Hotel Doruk, only 0.1m from the marina. We helped her check in and she reported it was very posh indeed, with complimentary wine and fruit. One glass of wine and she was out to it after an enormously tiring day, most taxing of all being stuffing the contents back into her exploded suitcase.
Colin and I had a fresh lemonade at the marina restaurant then walked into town for a quick look around. They say when you come to turkey you’re going to get ripped off at least once so we got ours over and done with at a spice shop. In our defence we were tired and hot and the salesmen are very good. I'm embarrassed to say how much we paid for spices but we got a good deal on the olive oil and honey because of it. The next day Colin imparted his wisdom that you should never buy anything straight away, you should look around and compare prices first. I said "You never do that" and he replied "I know, but it's good advice".
Getting an early start Colin and I did our provisioning before the heat and people set in. We'd found the Fish Market the night before and it was absolutely heaving! The market is a square in the centre of a larger square of restaurant tables and chairs, and every seat was filled. You can choose your fish from the market and have it cooked for you at the corresponding restaurant. In the morning however it was perfectly quiet and we seemed to be the only shoppers. Our market man brought us Turkish tea while we waited for the fish to be gutted and cleaned. We bought our fresh produce from the one grocer located within the square, then Colin discovered a whole market garden adjacent to the fish market when he went to get more cash. Ah well.
After provisioning I met Jane for coffee and Colin waited on the boat for a man who never arrived to give a quote on replacing the dodger (spray hood) and bimini, and that evening the three of us went into town for dinner. I'd seen a place the night before that looked very authentic. A small, open, wooden dining area with kitchen attached. We sat down and asked if there was a menu. The waiter tried to explain the food and a kind customer who was fluent in English helped him out and told us they just served one thing here, bread filled with meatballs and salad. That worked for us, and left room for dessert. On our way into town we'd chatted with the Turkish ice-cream man as he was pulling his whole tub of vanilla out on a stick and twirling it around! He showed us how it sticks to the metal spatula by having me place a cone underneath it then lifting it up. The cone stuck to the ice-cream which stayed stuck to the spatula, even as he put it in a suggestive position on Colin's pants. We were so entertained and curious about this Turkish ice-cream that we promised to come back after dinner, and there was more entertainment when we did. What a great character he was! We'll be going back there for sure.
Next morning we took Jane to see fish markets. Classic photo opportunity with a cat on its hind legs and its paws on the fish counter! I was too slow though, he was shooed off. Obviously a cat lover, a man was feeding fish to the cats, and I'm talking fillets, not left over heads like we saw thrown out yesterday. We then sought out the bakery Jane found yesterday and had tea and pastries, or in my case rice pudding. I can't be doing with these savoury pastries for breakfast, it's just not my thing. I blame my mother (not for the first time) who taught me it's okay to eat cake for breakfast.
After we'd eaten (drum roll please) off to the Turkish Baths! Jane wanted to sit it out and drink tea instead but Colin and I insisted she come. In fact we both thought it was her idea! Unaccustomed as she was to baring her body to strangers it was a baptism of fire (and soapy water) for Jane as the three of us were thrown into the communal steam room with only a Turkish towel on, then laid bare on a marble slab together for a scouring and soapy massage. Okay, so Colin was in a slightly separated room, but why let truth spoil the story? Luckily Jane found the experience immensely enjoyable and only slightly traumatising and appreciated being encouraged to go.
Sadly we had to bid Jane farewell at the marina as we prepared to go our separate ways, us further south and Jane off to England. What an amazing time we had together, sharing lots of fabulous adventures and experiences. We will miss you Jane. Safe travels and enjoy the next leg of your holiday.
Click images to enlarge
Jane and I had looked at some accommodation options for her and settled on the three star Hotel Doruk, only 0.1m from the marina. We helped her check in and she reported it was very posh indeed, with complimentary wine and fruit. One glass of wine and she was out to it after an enormously tiring day, most taxing of all being stuffing the contents back into her exploded suitcase.
Colin and I had a fresh lemonade at the marina restaurant then walked into town for a quick look around. They say when you come to turkey you’re going to get ripped off at least once so we got ours over and done with at a spice shop. In our defence we were tired and hot and the salesmen are very good. I'm embarrassed to say how much we paid for spices but we got a good deal on the olive oil and honey because of it. The next day Colin imparted his wisdom that you should never buy anything straight away, you should look around and compare prices first. I said "You never do that" and he replied "I know, but it's good advice".
Getting an early start Colin and I did our provisioning before the heat and people set in. We'd found the Fish Market the night before and it was absolutely heaving! The market is a square in the centre of a larger square of restaurant tables and chairs, and every seat was filled. You can choose your fish from the market and have it cooked for you at the corresponding restaurant. In the morning however it was perfectly quiet and we seemed to be the only shoppers. Our market man brought us Turkish tea while we waited for the fish to be gutted and cleaned. We bought our fresh produce from the one grocer located within the square, then Colin discovered a whole market garden adjacent to the fish market when he went to get more cash. Ah well.
After provisioning I met Jane for coffee and Colin waited on the boat for a man who never arrived to give a quote on replacing the dodger (spray hood) and bimini, and that evening the three of us went into town for dinner. I'd seen a place the night before that looked very authentic. A small, open, wooden dining area with kitchen attached. We sat down and asked if there was a menu. The waiter tried to explain the food and a kind customer who was fluent in English helped him out and told us they just served one thing here, bread filled with meatballs and salad. That worked for us, and left room for dessert. On our way into town we'd chatted with the Turkish ice-cream man as he was pulling his whole tub of vanilla out on a stick and twirling it around! He showed us how it sticks to the metal spatula by having me place a cone underneath it then lifting it up. The cone stuck to the ice-cream which stayed stuck to the spatula, even as he put it in a suggestive position on Colin's pants. We were so entertained and curious about this Turkish ice-cream that we promised to come back after dinner, and there was more entertainment when we did. What a great character he was! We'll be going back there for sure.
Next morning we took Jane to see fish markets. Classic photo opportunity with a cat on its hind legs and its paws on the fish counter! I was too slow though, he was shooed off. Obviously a cat lover, a man was feeding fish to the cats, and I'm talking fillets, not left over heads like we saw thrown out yesterday. We then sought out the bakery Jane found yesterday and had tea and pastries, or in my case rice pudding. I can't be doing with these savoury pastries for breakfast, it's just not my thing. I blame my mother (not for the first time) who taught me it's okay to eat cake for breakfast.
After we'd eaten (drum roll please) off to the Turkish Baths! Jane wanted to sit it out and drink tea instead but Colin and I insisted she come. In fact we both thought it was her idea! Unaccustomed as she was to baring her body to strangers it was a baptism of fire (and soapy water) for Jane as the three of us were thrown into the communal steam room with only a Turkish towel on, then laid bare on a marble slab together for a scouring and soapy massage. Okay, so Colin was in a slightly separated room, but why let truth spoil the story? Luckily Jane found the experience immensely enjoyable and only slightly traumatising and appreciated being encouraged to go.
Sadly we had to bid Jane farewell at the marina as we prepared to go our separate ways, us further south and Jane off to England. What an amazing time we had together, sharing lots of fabulous adventures and experiences. We will miss you Jane. Safe travels and enjoy the next leg of your holiday.
Click images to enlarge
Fethiye 14nm, 4hrs, sailed
Tuesday July 23 - Thursday 25
Ece Marina €70/night (~AUD$120)
Poo pump ₺20 (~AUD$5)
Mosquitos ++
Tuesday July 23 - Thursday 25
Ece Marina €70/night (~AUD$120)
Poo pump ₺20 (~AUD$5)
Mosquitos ++