PeloponnesePerth to Athens
Sunday April 16 - Monday 17 Travel time 19hrs We just scraped in with 25.3kg on our 25kg luggage allowance. Fortunately our carry-on didn't get weighed.
Departed Perth April 16, 2300, flight time 11hrs 25min Arrived Doha April 17, 0530 local time (5 hours behind Perth) Departed Doha 0730, flight time 5hrs 20min Arrived Athens 1300 (same time zone as Doha) Náfplio
Monday April 17 - Wednesday 19 Time from landing at airport 3hrs 30min Monday
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After 24 hours in transit a shower and a nap seemed logical. From 1945 - 2030 we slept, waking with an alarm and staying up only long enough to eat. Returning to a haunt from last year we indulged in the tried and trusted Mediterranean diet of a gyros and Greek salad. We loved the take-away system; a lady stopped her car in the middle of the road outside the restaurant, beeped her horn, and the staff ran out with her food.
Finding Kaïmáki ice cream with sour cherries was a bonus. Last year I quoted a description of the flavour of Kaïmáki as something akin to dirty socks and that it apparently took time to acquire a taste for it. Well, it seems I’ve spent enough time.
Tuesday
Tasks completed:
- Paid cruising tax at the Post Office
- Retrieved boat papers from the Customs Office, which only took around 45 minutes
Click images to enlarge
Finding Kaïmáki ice cream with sour cherries was a bonus. Last year I quoted a description of the flavour of Kaïmáki as something akin to dirty socks and that it apparently took time to acquire a taste for it. Well, it seems I’ve spent enough time.
Tuesday
Tasks completed:
- Paid cruising tax at the Post Office
- Retrieved boat papers from the Customs Office, which only took around 45 minutes
Click images to enlarge
Wednesday
The Fortress of Palamidi, preserved in excellent condition, is one of the greatest achievements of Venetian fortification architecture. It takes it name from the Homeric hero Palamidis, and was constructed from 1711 to 1714. We'd been meaning to explore the fortress since arriving in Náfplio last year but it was way too hot. Weather was kinder in April and we were glad we got to it this year as it really is rather impressive.
Click images to enlarge
The Fortress of Palamidi, preserved in excellent condition, is one of the greatest achievements of Venetian fortification architecture. It takes it name from the Homeric hero Palamidis, and was constructed from 1711 to 1714. We'd been meaning to explore the fortress since arriving in Náfplio last year but it was way too hot. Weather was kinder in April and we were glad we got to it this year as it really is rather impressive.
Click images to enlarge
Mystras
Wednesday April 19 - Thursday 20
Wednesday April 19 - Thursday 20
Stopping in Sparti on the way to our accommodation in Mystras, we tracked down the ruins just as the dark storm clouds burst. Second thoughts, on to Mystras, where the sweet and helpful Anastasia met us at the house after sending us GPS coordinates (as we'd had trouble with the ones on Air BnB). Nestled amongst orchards of citrus trees it was delightful, and Anastasia was very welcoming and full of good information about what to see and do around the area, and we got to help ourselves to the orchard fruit. After settling in we did a reccy of the Mystras archeological site then retired for the night after dinner in town, reserving our energy for tomorrow's explorations
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Recommendations from Anastasia:
- “Hellen’s” - the oven roast lamb and potatoes were sensational!
- Mystras ruins - start at the second (high) entrance further up the hill. Good call
- Skip the ruins at Sparti as there isn’t much left, but visit the Olive Oil Museum (we can’t endorse or dispute as we didn’t get to either)
- “Hellen’s” - the oven roast lamb and potatoes were sensational!
- Mystras ruins - start at the second (high) entrance further up the hill. Good call
- Skip the ruins at Sparti as there isn’t much left, but visit the Olive Oil Museum (we can’t endorse or dispute as we didn’t get to either)
The Archaeological Site of Mystras
The castle city of Mystras was built around a fortress erected in 1249 by the prince of Achaia, William of Villehardouin. Reconquered by the Byzantines, then occupied by the Turks and the Venetians, the city was abandoned in 1832 leaving only the medieval ruins, amongst them the Palace of the Despots and several Byzantine churches with valuable frescoes. A small new village sits just down the hillside from the ruins.
Click images to enlarge
Click images to enlarge
Olympia
Thursday April 20 - Sunday 23
Thursday April 20 - Sunday 23
Thursday
After a few hours of exploring the impressive ruins of Mystras we refuelled with coffee and snacks and headed to Olympia. Every time we talked about, planned around, or explored the place I would start singing the song by Hole. Sure, she’s singing about Olympia in Oregon USA, but still... Hole-Olympia Roundabouts. Who would have thought the rules would be different in Greece, and that if you’re on a roundabout you give way to traffic entering it? We found this out on our way to Olympia through some 'helpful' beeping while we were giving way to traffic on a roundabout before we entered. Good ol’ car horns...great for teaching road rules. |
Friday
When deciding on accommodation, one of the important factors is location, location, location, and this location was ideal. The archeological site of Olympia was a mere 1km walk, and we spent the morning immersing ourselves in history. We were in awe of the sheer size of stones forming the Temple of Zeus, and the preservation of the artefacts was impressive. Some were stashed in the museum to prevent deterioration, and we were equally impressed with the displays there.
Aspen seeds wafted through the site like snow, and felt soft like cashmere. The Judas trees in bloom added a magical touch to the remains of an ancient civilisation.
Stopping for lunch at the Rodo Café we were charmed by a little bird that landed on tables to find morsels of food to take back to its nest. People seemed unperturbed by it landing on their tables. Lunching there the next day, the little bird actually made it onto the plate of a large bikie who was eating a salad. Everyone seemed very tolerant of these little birds, and he just casually waved it away.
After finishing the long day at the museum I hopped into the Kladeos River (which ran under the bridge between town and the ancient site) to squish mud between my toes. One of life's great joys.
Katerina had recommended Thea’s Taverna in nearby Flokas, but in searching for it downtown we stumbled upon “Ο Φώντας” (Fondas) where we attracted very curious looks as we entered. We asked one of the staff if she spoke English and mentioned Thea’s Tavern. She didn't, but she was able to point to a place on the hill which we eventually found via a circuitous route. It was worth it. We dined again on succulent lamb and potatoes in the form of chips. It was a mouthwatering meal. I later recalled not seeing any females in “Ο Φώντας”, other than the woman working there. Perhaps that’s why we attracted such strange looks.
When deciding on accommodation, one of the important factors is location, location, location, and this location was ideal. The archeological site of Olympia was a mere 1km walk, and we spent the morning immersing ourselves in history. We were in awe of the sheer size of stones forming the Temple of Zeus, and the preservation of the artefacts was impressive. Some were stashed in the museum to prevent deterioration, and we were equally impressed with the displays there.
Aspen seeds wafted through the site like snow, and felt soft like cashmere. The Judas trees in bloom added a magical touch to the remains of an ancient civilisation.
Stopping for lunch at the Rodo Café we were charmed by a little bird that landed on tables to find morsels of food to take back to its nest. People seemed unperturbed by it landing on their tables. Lunching there the next day, the little bird actually made it onto the plate of a large bikie who was eating a salad. Everyone seemed very tolerant of these little birds, and he just casually waved it away.
After finishing the long day at the museum I hopped into the Kladeos River (which ran under the bridge between town and the ancient site) to squish mud between my toes. One of life's great joys.
Katerina had recommended Thea’s Taverna in nearby Flokas, but in searching for it downtown we stumbled upon “Ο Φώντας” (Fondas) where we attracted very curious looks as we entered. We asked one of the staff if she spoke English and mentioned Thea’s Tavern. She didn't, but she was able to point to a place on the hill which we eventually found via a circuitous route. It was worth it. We dined again on succulent lamb and potatoes in the form of chips. It was a mouthwatering meal. I later recalled not seeing any females in “Ο Φώντας”, other than the woman working there. Perhaps that’s why we attracted such strange looks.
Olympia Archeological Site
Ancient Olympia, so-called "valley of the gods", grew to be the most celebrated sacred site of Ancient Greece, and the birthplace of the Olympic Games, the most important sports events in all antiquity starting from 776 B.C. To this day Olympia remains a powerful landmark known the world over.
Click images to enlarge
Click images to enlarge
Olympia Village
Far be it from me to criticise the ‘little things’ when I have such a privileged life, so I’m just gonna say not all accommodations are created equal. As lovely as the location was, our digs left a bit to be desired. Our ‘host’, Katerina, met us in town and we followed her to the Mellia rooms. Having mistakenly booked shared accommodation once before, I was much more careful with my bookings this trip, so I was rather disappointed to be shown to a room off a shared kitchen. Luckily there were options, though the second option - a room further from the kitchen - didn’t thrill me either. Fortunately, the third option was agreeable to us and better matched what I thought I’d booked. As Katerina explained, each room had its advantages and disadvantages, and the downside of this room was not the two single beds, but the half shower.
Description of accommodation:
Private kitchen, Ensuite bathroom, Balcony, Garden view, Mountain view, Landmark view, Air conditioning, Flat-screen TV, Soundproofing, Terrace, Coffee machine, Free WiFi
Reality of accommodation:
Still, it all seemed fairly standard from what we've experienced previously, and it was our home for three days and we loved it. Katerina gave us great recommendations for restaurants and things to do, and to our delight we spied chickens on our walk into town. Mind you, they were in a field of weeds so tall they were barely visible, with just the occasional comb seen bobbing above the grass.
Saturday 22
Taking up Katerina's recommendations we started our day at Smili Art Workshop where Alexander, Katerina’s husband, spent time showing us how to carve marble. There are only two schools in the world where you can learn this art, and he had learned on the Cycladic Island of Tinos. He has worked on restoration of the columns at the Acropolis and in Olympia, and is highly regarded in his trade and well sought after, but he prefers the rural life and teaching classes at the workshop. We were so impressed by his beautiful work, and generous nature spending so much time with us, we bought a set of Whisky Stones and we don't even drink whisky! It turned out Alexander has cousins in the Perth and Margaret River areas, but he couldn’t remember the name of the fish and chip shop his cousin Tina owned so he phoned her and we had a three-way conversation. We vowed to visit Tina and Greg (Gregoris), at Woodlands Fish and Chips opposite Jackadder Lake, on our return home.
Following our education on marble we wandered on to Klio’s honey farm, where we were lucky enough to squeeze in a tour before the next booked group. The life of bees is fascinating, as is the art of beekeeping, making honey, and making honey money. Klio was very good at all of these things, and was the third generation in a family of apiarists.
Click images to enlarge
Description of accommodation:
Private kitchen, Ensuite bathroom, Balcony, Garden view, Mountain view, Landmark view, Air conditioning, Flat-screen TV, Soundproofing, Terrace, Coffee machine, Free WiFi
Reality of accommodation:
- Private kitchen with no kettle, no bin, no plug for the sink, 10 dessert spoons and one knife, and where you had to choose between plugging in the fridge or the oven/stove top that sat on it
- Sheets that barely fit the beds, so you woke up on the bare mattress
- Ensuite bathroom without any replacement rubbish bags for your loo paper once you filled the thimble-sized bin, and with a half-size shower and filmy curtain that billowed in and stuck to you as you showered, and a droopy shower head
- Bedside lamp that doesn’t work, cupboards that don’t shut, doors that don’t lock, louvre windows that don’t fit the frame
- Balcony with Street view
- Soundproofing that didn’t block out the baby next door
- Coffee machine that even the genius Colin couldn’t work out how to use
- Free WiFi with a warning of security risks
- and air conditioning and flat-screen TV were both tickety-boo. Well the air-con was. We didn't test the TV. Perhaps it was for the best.
Still, it all seemed fairly standard from what we've experienced previously, and it was our home for three days and we loved it. Katerina gave us great recommendations for restaurants and things to do, and to our delight we spied chickens on our walk into town. Mind you, they were in a field of weeds so tall they were barely visible, with just the occasional comb seen bobbing above the grass.
Saturday 22
Taking up Katerina's recommendations we started our day at Smili Art Workshop where Alexander, Katerina’s husband, spent time showing us how to carve marble. There are only two schools in the world where you can learn this art, and he had learned on the Cycladic Island of Tinos. He has worked on restoration of the columns at the Acropolis and in Olympia, and is highly regarded in his trade and well sought after, but he prefers the rural life and teaching classes at the workshop. We were so impressed by his beautiful work, and generous nature spending so much time with us, we bought a set of Whisky Stones and we don't even drink whisky! It turned out Alexander has cousins in the Perth and Margaret River areas, but he couldn’t remember the name of the fish and chip shop his cousin Tina owned so he phoned her and we had a three-way conversation. We vowed to visit Tina and Greg (Gregoris), at Woodlands Fish and Chips opposite Jackadder Lake, on our return home.
Following our education on marble we wandered on to Klio’s honey farm, where we were lucky enough to squeeze in a tour before the next booked group. The life of bees is fascinating, as is the art of beekeeping, making honey, and making honey money. Klio was very good at all of these things, and was the third generation in a family of apiarists.
Click images to enlarge